TylerDurden
100 GW
Lessss said:
tel: = telephone
fax: = facsimile
Use this when U don't want to create a short lived topic.
- Thread starter Lessss
- Start date
tel: = telephone
fax: = facsimile
total guess but
48v controller with 42v cut off
500w / 48v = 10 amps
Made in 2006 November... ( not sure about above.. but likely a model/serial number )
48v controller with 42v cut off
500w / 48v = 10 amps
Made in 2006 November... ( not sure about above.. but likely a model/serial number )
DanEL
1 mW
I would read this article before I imported anything from China
http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/features/bikebiz.html
It's a few years old but is still helpful. Written by a bicycle industry insider.
http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/features/bikebiz.html
It's a few years old but is still helpful. Written by a bicycle industry insider.
"Buttery - 48V" :lol:
Over there they suffer from Engnese.
What's the label attached to?
It looks like the side window of a car.
Is it an EV of some sort?
If you're not in a rush, I could ask my former boss sometime next week if you don't get an answer by then.
Over there they suffer from Engnese.
What's the label attached to?
It looks like the side window of a car.
Is it an EV of some sort?
If you're not in a rush, I could ask my former boss sometime next week if you don't get an answer by then.
Lessss
1 MW
translate this?
andrey320
1 W
Why can't I start a new thread? I get this message -
Sorry, but only users granted special access can post topics in this forum
Sorry, but only users granted special access can post topics in this forum
TylerDurden
100 GW
andrey320 said:
It is the new punishment for those who are not pure of heart...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2214
8)
andrey320 said:
You have been granted special access. Post away.
andrey320
1 W
Thank you!
Dalecv
1 W
Does anyone have any experience with the Lightfoot bikes or trikes?
Lessss
1 MW
http://www.perpetualkid.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1607
LED license plate. Neat. Hmm I wonder if there are any out there that are the size of the entire plate?
LED license plate. Neat. Hmm I wonder if there are any out there that are the size of the entire plate?
xyster
10 MW
These programmable LED license plate frames, window inserts and such will make an interesting adjunct to the common expressions of road rage, such as the perennially popular third finger, horn and "f--- you, assh*le" outbursts -- which as a bicycler who follows the rules of the road unless it is more dangerous to do so, I seem to get a lot of.
I've seen one that goes in the back window of a car that's big, but would only display pre-programmed messages.
Being able to put anything you want is much better. I can see how that will quickly be abused. Great for tailgaters.
Being able to put anything you want is much better. I can see how that will quickly be abused. Great for tailgaters.
flip_normal
100 W
I went and bought an electric scooter yesterday and it died within 24 hours! :?
The guy who sold it to me gave me a good deal and is being very helpful but doesn't have much technical knowledge so he asked me to send him an email describing the fault which he's passing on to the manufacturer in China to see whats wrong with it. Since there's a lot of experiance of hub motors and controllers on ES I thought I'd see if anyone here could help find the problem. I can't see the controller on the scooter, it must be tucked away inside somewhere and I don't want to strip it down just yet so here's the message I sent the dealer.
"It was my second trip on the moped after having fully charged it each time until the green light on the charger came on [inducating full charge]. I was about 12km into the trip and I was moving in slow traffic on a level road when the moped stopped working suddenly. Fortunately I only had to push it about 200m home. With the moped on the centre stand the back wheel has resistance when it is turned by hand, similar to the feel of a stepper motor turned by hand, whereas before the back wheel turned smoothly. All the other electrics work (ie. headlamp, horn and indicators) and the power meter is still in the green. I turned the circuit breaker switch off and then back on but that didn't help."
If anyone has experianced a simmilar fault with a hub motor I appreciate any advice and info. Thanks.
Here's a pic. of the scoot.
The guy who sold it to me gave me a good deal and is being very helpful but doesn't have much technical knowledge so he asked me to send him an email describing the fault which he's passing on to the manufacturer in China to see whats wrong with it. Since there's a lot of experiance of hub motors and controllers on ES I thought I'd see if anyone here could help find the problem. I can't see the controller on the scooter, it must be tucked away inside somewhere and I don't want to strip it down just yet so here's the message I sent the dealer.
"It was my second trip on the moped after having fully charged it each time until the green light on the charger came on [inducating full charge]. I was about 12km into the trip and I was moving in slow traffic on a level road when the moped stopped working suddenly. Fortunately I only had to push it about 200m home. With the moped on the centre stand the back wheel has resistance when it is turned by hand, similar to the feel of a stepper motor turned by hand, whereas before the back wheel turned smoothly. All the other electrics work (ie. headlamp, horn and indicators) and the power meter is still in the green. I turned the circuit breaker switch off and then back on but that didn't help."
If anyone has experianced a simmilar fault with a hub motor I appreciate any advice and info. Thanks.
Here's a pic. of the scoot.
Sounds like the controller blew a FET.
Does the resistance change when the power is on (no throttle)?
Try the rollback test. Roll the scooter backward quickly and note the resistance. Do the test with the power on and with the power off (no throttle).
Does it blow the main fuse?
With the wheel off the ground, will it run?
If you're lucky, it might just be a loose connection on one of the hall sensors. Trace the wires coming from the motor until they come to a connector. Check the connections.
Does the resistance change when the power is on (no throttle)?
Try the rollback test. Roll the scooter backward quickly and note the resistance. Do the test with the power on and with the power off (no throttle).
Does it blow the main fuse?
With the wheel off the ground, will it run?
If you're lucky, it might just be a loose connection on one of the hall sensors. Trace the wires coming from the motor until they come to a connector. Check the connections.
flip_normal
100 W
Hi fechter,
no change in rolling resistance whether power is on or off or if throttle is open or closed, just gentle steppy feel like a stepper motor.
motor dosen't run if the wheel is off the ground or not.
can't see a main fuse but there is a circuit breaker under the seat which seems ok on a continuity test.
I'm going to get the ok from the dealer before taking it apart and having a closer look at the controller and wiring. will post any results, cheers.
no change in rolling resistance whether power is on or off or if throttle is open or closed, just gentle steppy feel like a stepper motor.
motor dosen't run if the wheel is off the ground or not.
can't see a main fuse but there is a circuit breaker under the seat which seems ok on a continuity test.
I'm going to get the ok from the dealer before taking it apart and having a closer look at the controller and wiring. will post any results, cheers.
It sounds like a shorted FET.
If you get the go-ahead to poke around, the same general testing procedure as the Crystalyte motors and controllers would apply.
If you get the go-ahead to poke around, the same general testing procedure as the Crystalyte motors and controllers would apply.
flip_normal
100 W
Ok got go ahead to strip out the controller. Now reading up on Crystalyte controllers, will post report and pics as work progresses. Thanks for the pointers fechter.
BTW I recently got hold of 30 IRFB4110's (thanks nemo) hopefully I can use some of these to fix the controller (I was planning to do this mod anyway, this has just made it happen a bit sooner than planned. Assuming they'll fit that is).
BTW I recently got hold of 30 IRFB4110's (thanks nemo) hopefully I can use some of these to fix the controller (I was planning to do this mod anyway, this has just made it happen a bit sooner than planned. Assuming they'll fit that is).
I see you're well prepared.
Test the continuity between both power input wires and the 3 phase wires first (battery disconnected). This way you can determine which (if any) of the FETs shorted. There is a possiblility the motor shorted. If this is the case, the cogging will still be noticeable after disconnecting the controller.
Test the continuity between both power input wires and the 3 phase wires first (battery disconnected). This way you can determine which (if any) of the FETs shorted. There is a possiblility the motor shorted. If this is the case, the cogging will still be noticeable after disconnecting the controller.
flip_normal
100 W
I found continuity between the black (battery negative) wire and blue phase wire. So it looks like one or all of the five middle FETs IRF1407 has blown.
I found some scorch marks on the underside of the PCB so it appears like there was something in there which shorted the battery out, but it seems as if this vaporized as there wasn't anything loose in there when I opened up the box.
I found some scorch marks on the underside of the PCB so it appears like there was something in there which shorted the battery out, but it seems as if this vaporized as there wasn't anything loose in there when I opened up the box.
Attachments
flip_normal
100 W
There are also some marks on the capacitor near the shunt, see pic. below.
I'm going to replace the FETs with the IRFB4110s and upgrade the capacitors to a higher voltage rating. The battery voltage is 48V at present but I plan to increase that at a later date so I might as well get the controller ready for that while it's out.
Something which didn't help the situation was just sticking the controller to the frame with sticky tape! It'll get fixed back with screws when I'm finished.
The back wheel spins smoothly with the controller out, so it looks like the motor's OK.
I'm going to replace the FETs with the IRFB4110s and upgrade the capacitors to a higher voltage rating. The battery voltage is 48V at present but I plan to increase that at a later date so I might as well get the controller ready for that while it's out.
Something which didn't help the situation was just sticking the controller to the frame with sticky tape! It'll get fixed back with screws when I'm finished.
The back wheel spins smoothly with the controller out, so it looks like the motor's OK.
Lessss said:translate this?
Haven't forgetten about you.
Finally caught up with my former employer.
I'm just curious what ancient chinese secret you imagined to be revealed cuz it's pretty mundane. :lol:
1. Caution read instruction booklet b4 use.
2. Obey traffic law
3. Do daily maintenence
4. Repair all problems immediately
Fickle Finger Of Fate: Keep charging every day
Slash Circle Warning: Do not operate with lo pressure
Circular badge: Quality control inspected by company
Actually it's just good ole chinese philosophy, a general guide for daily living. 8)
flip_normal
100 W
re. my blown controller:- would it be OK to just replace the five middle FETs (ie. the ones going to the shorted blue phase wire) with IRBF4110's and test the controller back on the moped to see if it works. I don't want to risk blowing a whole bunch of my new FETs by installing them in a controller which may have other faults. Does anyone know if this a sensible way to proceed?
Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.
Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.
I suppose, but if it works, I'd go for replacing all the FETs.
The gate resistors going to the blown FETs are most likely open. The gate driver may be damaged as well, but there's a good chance it will still work.
It's a good idea to test with some kind of current limiting like a 5 amp fuse and with the wheel off the ground. A current limited power supply would be better.
The gate resistors going to the blown FETs are most likely open. The gate driver may be damaged as well, but there's a good chance it will still work.
It's a good idea to test with some kind of current limiting like a 5 amp fuse and with the wheel off the ground. A current limited power supply would be better.
flip_normal
100 W
re. my blown controller:- IT'S FIXED!
Many thanks fechter and everyone else who's posted all the really useful info that helped me sort it out. I would have done it sooner but I've had a cold all week and soldering FETs while sneezing and coughing isn't recommended.
In the end it all went pretty much to plan: I swapped out the three 1000uF capacitors with new ones and moved them away from potential sources of heat such as the shunt resistor and the FETs, by keeping their legs long I could raise them up and away from these components. The gate resistors were still intact (rated 15ohm on this controller) so I just replaced the five middle FETs, which had the short, with IRFB4110s, plugged the controller back into the moped with a 5amp fuse on the power line and hey presto the back wheel went round when I twisted the throttle. One slight hiccup occurred when I replaced the other 10 FETs and put the controller back in and..... nothing. :? Fortunately, I soon traced the problem to a dodgy connection with the throttle wires which had one of it's connector pins loose, just pushed it back into the connector block a bit and all done, totally working.
I've now done two runs of about 15 miles each on the moped and all's going fine. I'm sure it feels smoother and a bit nippier than before, it gets up to 30mph quick enough and tops out at about 35mph (eventually) on the flat. I've been riding in traffic with lots of stops and starts and some moderate hills and the hub motor feels only slightly warm at the end of the run. The controller however does feel significantly warmer than I'd like and I'm probably going to do some kind of forced air cooling on it although I might just move it so that it's getting more air flow over it. At the moment the controller is tucked away behind the under seat storage area and stuck to a plate metal box which holds one of the batteries. I'm concerned that the extra heat which this battery is getting will affect it's lifespan and pull the capacity of the whole pack down, so moving the controller to a better location is next on the agenda. The only slight gripe is the poor acceleration as the voltage sags towards the end of the run. I might have alleviated this by putting some solder on the shunt but I didn’t want to pull too many amps through these batteries, they're the silicone ones from Greensaver and I recon they're already operating at or above their recommended amperage rating, which will seriously reduce their life. This will not be a problem however when I replace them with LiFePO4 in the spring, funds permitting! I'll retire silicone batts to a small PV setup I've got planned.
Many thanks again to all on the forum for all the excellent info here. Did I mention ES ROCKS!
Many thanks fechter and everyone else who's posted all the really useful info that helped me sort it out. I would have done it sooner but I've had a cold all week and soldering FETs while sneezing and coughing isn't recommended.
In the end it all went pretty much to plan: I swapped out the three 1000uF capacitors with new ones and moved them away from potential sources of heat such as the shunt resistor and the FETs, by keeping their legs long I could raise them up and away from these components. The gate resistors were still intact (rated 15ohm on this controller) so I just replaced the five middle FETs, which had the short, with IRFB4110s, plugged the controller back into the moped with a 5amp fuse on the power line and hey presto the back wheel went round when I twisted the throttle. One slight hiccup occurred when I replaced the other 10 FETs and put the controller back in and..... nothing. :? Fortunately, I soon traced the problem to a dodgy connection with the throttle wires which had one of it's connector pins loose, just pushed it back into the connector block a bit and all done, totally working.
I've now done two runs of about 15 miles each on the moped and all's going fine. I'm sure it feels smoother and a bit nippier than before, it gets up to 30mph quick enough and tops out at about 35mph (eventually) on the flat. I've been riding in traffic with lots of stops and starts and some moderate hills and the hub motor feels only slightly warm at the end of the run. The controller however does feel significantly warmer than I'd like and I'm probably going to do some kind of forced air cooling on it although I might just move it so that it's getting more air flow over it. At the moment the controller is tucked away behind the under seat storage area and stuck to a plate metal box which holds one of the batteries. I'm concerned that the extra heat which this battery is getting will affect it's lifespan and pull the capacity of the whole pack down, so moving the controller to a better location is next on the agenda. The only slight gripe is the poor acceleration as the voltage sags towards the end of the run. I might have alleviated this by putting some solder on the shunt but I didn’t want to pull too many amps through these batteries, they're the silicone ones from Greensaver and I recon they're already operating at or above their recommended amperage rating, which will seriously reduce their life. This will not be a problem however when I replace them with LiFePO4 in the spring, funds permitting! I'll retire silicone batts to a small PV setup I've got planned.
Many thanks again to all on the forum for all the excellent info here. Did I mention ES ROCKS!
Similar threads
