Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[Arckelaus]

Hi guys..
I have Votol Em-100 controller for my folding bike (60v 20ah Battery with 10inch 48v 800w BLDC)

i have problems with my controller,.
my controller can't connect to computer,. it can connect before and doing good for settings(tested for drive also),.

its start showing "Communication Abnormal, no response" since I download "*.ini" file in 'Open File'
its supposed to be happened in "Import Param" (Config *.ini file) not in "open file" (that used for *.bin File)

the controller still on,. but not responding,.
can anyone help me, and tell me what to do?

thanks before

 

[j bjork]

Maybe someone will be useful.
I found a file describing the procedure for calibrating the motor
20200207.docx

Very useful, but where does it come from? What I really wonder is can there be more of these kind of documents for different fixes?

 

[j bjork]

Hi guys..
I have Votol Em-100 controller for my folding bike (60v 20ah Battery with 10inch 48v 800w BLDC)

Is it usually 9600 and no can?
It depends on what controller you have, but my em150sp is 115200 and can.
Is it com3? It looks like that is what you selected.

 

[nardcox]

I am assembling a battery for a motorcycle and thinking about which battery to collect 72v 50-60ah or 60v 100ah. And the question is whether the controller will open from 60v to 100%?

Those are the different setups:
72v * 60Ah = 4,32
60v * 100Ah = 6,00
The equivelant 72v of a 60v100Ah is 83Ah.
Generally speaking: better more voltage and lower Ah to reduce amp draw.


Does anyone have any idea's suggestions regarding my 49kmph max? What could be casing the bike to hit regen so aggressively?
Also switched the "detauilt gear" to "hige" as suggested by QS but didn't solve the problem.

I also noticed tonight that sometimes the motor doesn't sound "happy", like some wrong settings where selected.

 

[nardcox]

Nobody?

 

[j bjork]

I have only had that problem when I tried to use HDC.
But I also have HHC in my program, in yours it isn't there.
Maybe try a different program to make sure that it isn't on?

But you also say the motor doesn't sound good sometimes, maybe some motor settings is wrong?

 

[gbeals]

45 pages on Votol Controller - NICE! Sadly I'm still stuck at step one.

I have a EM-150 + QS3000 Mid-drive motor

I'm only trying to do a bench test to see the motor spin. I'm not fully set up to test as I don't have a battery, so I'm improvising with my 40v trimmer batter I have.

Hall connector connected
B+ hooked to + Battery terminal
B- hooked to - Battery terminal
E-loc purple gray from Main L1 Connector
I Have my throttle hooked up Pink to REd (throttle has red), Green to Green, Black to Black (if I hook up the other two wires I do see my voltage on my throttle.

I twisted the throttle and nothing. Am I missing something? Is my 40v batter just not enough? This is a bench test with zero load. I have not started to hook the controller up to the computer yet as I figured step 1 should be working before I dive into the controller if that matters?

 

[j bjork]

I think step 1 is to get connection with the computer to check the settings, then try to get the motor to run.
How should anyone know if 40v is enough without knowing your lvc?

 

[nardcox]

Maybe try a different program to make sure that it isn't on?

But you also say the motor doesn't sound good sometimes, maybe some motor settings is wrong?

Which one? I'm using:
votol new 2019082254162001
EM50 EM100 EM150 without CAN BUS
VOTOL-EM-V3 Software Debugging(IO19).exeWhich one? I'm using:
votol new 2019082254162001
EM50 EM100 EM150 without CAN BUS
VOTOL-EM-V3 Software Debugging(IO19).exe

Maybe some motor settings are wrong but I don't know which ones.. I've just tried opening the motor but didn't success, only tried a few minutes, unscrewed all the screens and tried to 'pull' the cover off.

 

[gbeals]

I think step 1 is to get connection with the computer to check the settings, then try to get the motor to run.
How should anyone know if 40v is enough without knowing your lvc?

LvC, wouldn't I need to connect to the controller to know that? I was under the impression I didn't have to hook up to the computer to test things first. I will start with the computer connection tonight and go from there.

 

[j bjork]

Mine looks like this:

There is a link in this thread to the different programs, that is how I found them.

 

[nardcox]

Mine looks like this:

Yeah, saw that version to, just thought it was for the 'Sport' models.
Anyway, tried that software, seems to work just fine.
Both options however where turned off, will give it a quick spin tomorrow to see if anything changed.

As for the hall shift angle. I always read -120, -60, 0, 60 and 120.
The -60 is the only one working properly, but for fun I've tried -30 and that seems to work as well.
My question: is it always one of the aforementioned 5 settings or can we use 30, 45 or whatever as well?
Question 2: how did you guys now the settings for your motors? Trial and error or are those givin / did you measure it somehow?

 

[booth]

Need help , i can not clear fault code 0002 "overcurrent" i reset controller fault code is disappear but when i push the throttle fault code that show it again.

 

[nardcox]

How much current do you pull then? Can't imagine it being more than 120A as per your settings.
Does the error come when you pull the throttle or when you release the throttle (regen)?

 

[booth]

How much current do you pull then? Can't imagine it being more than 120A as per your settings.
Does the error come when you pull the throttle or when you release the throttle (regen)?

-I test only motor(No load)
-error occur when i pull throttle.

 

[gbeals]

This is my take #2 as my approach was incorrect the first go around.

I now have my laptop and controller talking. I used the links in this thread for the 2020 Votol Controller software. The PL2303 software recognized my USB with no issue. I then loaded the EM_v3_Sport Software. Followed the manual to connect to the controller and was successful. Although everything stated it was connected and could see numbers now populate the screens where as before everything was blank. I further confirmed my connection my manually spinning the motor and could see the RPM change on screen!

I have the EM-150 Controller with a QS3000 Motor. I'm currently using a 40VLithium 4ah Battery for my testing - I'm not sure if this is possible or not - I do see a under voltage error on Display page. I'm looking to do a bench test with zero load to the motor to ensure everything is working properly. I did review the manual but I was not able to determine the proper settings for my components.

My issue is I have no understanding on what my settings should be; I did look for the PARK setting and see that is not enabled. I currently have my throttle hooked up per the manual. I see the voltage on the my throttle. I have the e-loc (gray/purple) connected to B+, nothing occurs when using the throttle. I'm quite positive it is my settings so have not moved beyond this point. Also to note I have the EM 150 but when connected it shows the EM100 and continues to change itself to EM100.

Here are my screen shots of each page; Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do plan on having a 72v battery built, but not certain on my needs just yet. Thanks in advance for any help provided.

 

[j bjork]

Strange that it is showing 0v, but if you try to run it on 40v maybe you should set your lvc lower than 40v?

 

[Overclocker]

what's the max "safe" boost current for em100?

and how the heck do you tell if you've got an em100 or em100s ? or em100sp

 

[gbeals]

Strange that it is showing 0v, but if you try to run it on 40v maybe you should set your lvc lower than 40v?

Updated the software to a newer link and this issue of 0v showing is now resolved. Also no more fault code. Motor moves up to 1600rpm where I hear a noise. I stopped testing; figure something is up with my settings. I posted a video to see if the sound is known....

[youtube]XkpMT2LdSho[/youtube]

 

[SilentEnduro]

Strange that it is showing 0v, but if you try to run it on 40v maybe you should set your lvc lower than 40v?

Updated the software to a newer link and this issue of 0v showing is now resolved. Also no more fault code. Motor moves up to 1600rpm where I hear a noise. I stopped testing; figure something is up with my settings. I posted a video to see if the sound is known....

[youtube]XkpMT2LdSho[/youtube]

is hall shift angle correct?

 

[nardcox]

Still don't have the bike running. Will try and make a video of how the motor sounds sometimes. It keep of feels like there is a slip diff inside and it doesn't grasps immediately. I've briefly tried opening the motor without luck, also got feedback from SuperSoco saying they don't know and even if they did don't release that kind of data...

 

[gbeals]

Strange that it is showing 0v, but if you try to run it on 40v maybe you should set your lvc lower than 40v?

Updated the software to a newer link and this issue of 0v showing is now resolved. Also no more fault code. Motor moves up to 1600rpm where I hear a noise. I stopped testing; figure something is up with my settings. I posted a video to see if the sound is known....

[youtube]XkpMT2LdSho[/youtube]

is hall shift angle correct?

I'll be checking it - I thought it was set properly, but will double check everything. Also working on getting a proper battery to limit any oddities. The motor is rated for 72v, and I'm closer to 35v with my testing battery. Still happy it is now moving.

 

[nardcox]

Still don't have the bike running. Will try and make a video of how the motor sounds sometimes. It keep of feels like there is a slip diff inside and it doesn't grasps immediately. I've briefly tried opening the motor without luck, also got feedback from SuperSoco saying they don't know and even if they did don't release that kind of data...

A video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8YVyLCz4RRWkzhM89

I've found out that at ~700rpm the motor get a punch and than it doesn't react to the throttle input until it almost completely winds down.
I also see 'regen' active when I'm accelerating which is odd right? I've put EBS to 0% and the gear selection all at 100%.

When driving I'm not making the 700 rpm since that would be around ~70kmph.
I've put the polepairs at 26 I can get to around 730 rpm, with 25 polepairs around 760rpm, is that a sign that my pole pairs are incorrect? Like said before I can't get the motor open and the supplier doesn't supply the data so I'm kind of stuck... EDIT: Ahh it's probably just a calculation of pulses. The less polepairs the more cycles it counts although the rotation speed is probably the same...

 

[nardcox]

Man this topic is dead ... I bought this controller partially because I thought it would get solid support from the ES but unfortunately I was wrong...

Anyway, I've made some adjustment to my rear arm and placed the QS motor. Reset the controller with the settings that where pre-installed in the controller and voila, it works. And damn it's fast

I however have a question regarding the regen function. In the Manuel it doesn't say anything regarding 'regen'. It does however have an 'EBS' option (Electronic Brake Support?) which to me sounds like regen. How does this work? I don't have any electronics connected so far so there is no 'brake signal'. Is it possible to say like: release of throttle is x% regen and as soon as I hit the brake it becomes y%?

 

[j bjork]

According to the manual it seems like you are supposed to be able to get motor braking going downhill.
It didnt work for me though, it only worked like an rpm limit. But I have an ipm motor, maybe it works on a hub.

Regen with a button works. It has all been discussed earlier in the thread.