Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[nardcox]

True, I can try to use the HDC for this.

A button works, that's good to know. Did also anyone try with a lever? I've seen bikes using a lever so you can modulate the amount of regen.

Ps. Kind of bummed out since I was under the assumption that this controller supported regen. I always assumed regen when release throttle and regen when hitting the brake lever.

 

[liteglow]

Ps. Kind of bummed out since I was under the assumption that this controller supported regen. I always assumed regen when release throttle and regen when hitting the brake lever.

The votol controller software is crap.
You are lucky if you get it working as you want.

Regen is something I also is working on, but last time my controller died.
So not sure if I bother to test it anymore.

But if you figure it out, let me know.
I dont need regen, but I need the braking motor can provide.

 

[larsb]

Well, either your controllers are busted or you’re not connecting properly. Just set regen value and hook up 12v supply through a brake switch to the correct pin and voila.

It’s in the manual if you have reading skills

 

[j bjork]

True, I can try to use the HDC for this.

A button works, that's good to know. Did also anyone try with a lever? I've seen bikes using a lever so you can modulate the amount of regen.

Ps. Kind of bummed out since I was under the assumption that this controller supported regen. I always assumed regen when release throttle and regen when hitting the brake lever.

It only has fixed regen. I dont want to use the 12v high input, so I am using PB4 low brake.

 

[nardcox]

QS Motors just released a video regarding regen when releasing throttle. Will give it a try as soon as I made some small changes to wiring.
[youtube]66XnN7IrjdE[/youtube]

Just set regen value and hook up 12v supply through a brake switch to the correct pin and voila.

It’s in the manual if you have reading skills

Where do you "just set regen value"? In the manual there is no mentioning of "regen" anywhere, I did find the EBS but this didn't trigger when releasing throttle, perhaps it does work when the brake signal comes through.

It only has fixed regen. I dont want to use the 12v high input, so I am using PB4 low brake.

Is there any info regarding the port settings, it doesn't say anything in the manuel except for the 3 speed switch vs button option. I'll be sure to make a mental note to try it lateron.

 

[larsb]

The ebs is triggered regen so you need switch.
The hhc hdc is release throttle regen (never tried it)

If you read the text, think it was 3.7.4 or something then there is explanation on regen. Did you read it?

 

[liteglow]

Well, either your controllers are busted or you’re not connecting properly. Just set regen value and hook up 12v supply through a brake switch to the correct pin and voila.

It’s in the manual if you have reading skills

Not sure what you was talking about "reading skills"

Anyway, I sent my controller back to QS, and it turns out it was something wrong with it.
Whatever settings I made in the Software, the controller did not save it properly.


I got a new controller now, and it is another world !!
The torque is more powerful than the old one, the settings does work.
And REGEN release throttle does work now.

So it was nothing wrong with manual or my attempt to use it, it was the bad controller all along.

 

[Sattva Ram]

Can anyone tell that the EM72150SP has motor overheat cutoff function? Does it also have overheat protection for itself?

 

[j bjork]

Is there any info regarding the port settings, it doesn't say anything in the manuel except for the 3 speed switch vs button option. I'll be sure to make a mental note to try it lateron.

Thanks for the video.
Too bad it was so low quality so it was very hard to see what he was doing, but it seems you have to check the box that says SW in PD15 to get the hdc/hhc to work.
The manual is very bad when it comes to port settings, I havent sen much more then the settings for "hall speed/one lin" or "button/switch" for three speed.

 

[j bjork]

Can anyone tell that the EM72150SP has motor overheat cutoff function? Does it also have overheat protection for itself?

Yes, and you can see in the thread that the controller overheat function has been discussed a lot.

 

[Irling]

Hi guys, I’m sorry if my english is wrong, I’m using a translator. Can you please, is it possible to configure the controller EM100S in the engine speed control mode and not power? I really like it when the engine has maximum torque at low revs, as it is implemented in Bafang BBS HD motors . If possible, which setting should be changed? thanks

 

[Sattva Ram]

Can anyone tell that the EM72150SP has motor overheat cutoff function? Does it also have overheat protection for itself?

Yes, and you can see in the thread that the controller overheat function has been discussed a lot.

Thanks

Another question. Is its regen efficient? I ordered a budget greentime controller and its regen is very inefficient maybe 50% of the energy goes into the battery and the rest heats the motor like crazy.

 

[Sattva Ram]

Can someone tell me if the votol 72150 has an efficient regen? I have some bad experiences with the greentime controllers cause maybe 50% of the braking energy goes into the battery and the rest heats the motor like crazy. I definitely dont want another controller with bad regen. Thanks for the help.

 

[nardcox]

Just tried the trick I've posted in the above video. I've noticed that it doesn't matter whether I select "sw" or not it does regen the same. It has to the with the value on page 1 "rate of decline". I'm noticing it has regen the higher the value the higher the regen. This however stops at a certain speed (estimating about 25kmph).
Lowederd HDC enable from 1700 to 500, top speed is highly reduced? Put it back to 1700.
Activated HHC. No noticeable difference
ABS Ratio from 50 to 40 no difference
ABS Ratio from 40 to 70 no difference
PD15 SW off no difference.

rate of decline is for the off throttle regen it seems.
Who knows how I can keep regen still a standstill?

Yesterday I put the controller on 150A for some testing. I was doing a acceleration pull and at 70 all hell broke loose (lots of sparks and bangs, I almost shit myself). It seemed to be coming near the cable tree. I drove home slowly and once there I checked and found:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/M8UHNLR8ew7E8V64A

Battery - Stock negative wire that was previously in stock battery
via 2 x 10 awg
BMS B-
BMS C-
via 2 x 10 awg
Controller - Stock negative wire that was previous on controller
Motor 3 wires
Controller + Stock positive wire that was previous on controller, connected on fuse
via 2 x 10 awg
Fuse
via 2 x 10 awg
AS150 Connectors
via 2 x 10 awg
Battery + Stock positive wire that was previously in stock battery

What was wrong? I do admit I didn't measure the voltages coming through out of the converter, but I just assumed that would be 12V as advertised...

 

[rexfordk83]

anyone else notice in the newer batch of em150SP sport mode is activated a little differently?, i have a total of 3 motors (qs 138 mid) and 3( em 150sp). My very first controller, its sport mode was how everyone describes here, simply take the yellow/white and bridge it to ground for continuous sport mode or put it to a switch. the other 2 controllers which were bought 5 months apart from the first one, it always starts in default mode then all you need to do is just touch the yellow/white wire to ground and it will switch to sport, then to get back to default mode you touch the wire again. so it doesn't need to be connected consonantly just touched, also my supplier says now sport mode is only activated for 30 sec then switches back to default.... i wish it was just like my first one, since i just want it in sport mode all the time. i guess i could just make high mode default then change my flux weakening and bus bar amps (150amps, flux 3000,3000)where sport mode was and that should be the same as sport mode, in theory

 

[Bartosh]

anyone else notice in the newer batch of em150SP sport mode is activated a little differently?, i have a total of 3 motors (qs 138 mid) and 3( em 150sp). My very first controller, its sport mode was how everyone describes here, simply take the yellow/white and bridge it to ground for continuous sport mode or put it to a switch. the other 2 controllers which were bought 5 months apart from the first one, it always starts in default mode then all you need to do is just touch the yellow/white wire to ground and it will switch to sport, then to get back to default mode you touch the wire again. so it doesn't need to be connected consonantly just touched, also my supplier says now sport mode is only activated for 30 sec then switches back to default.... i wish it was just like my first one, since i just want it in sport mode all the time. i guess i could just make high mode default then change my flux weakening and bus bar amps (150amps, flux 3000,3000)where sport mode was and that should be the same as sport mode, in theory

Can you post some screenshots of port config and page 2 tabs of these two controllers? Are the HW/SW versions reported the same?

Edit: FW hasn't changed, so there's no need to worry about that

 

[rexfordk83]

anyone else notice in the newer batch of em150SP sport mode is activated a little differently?, i have a total of 3 motors (qs 138 mid) and 3( em 150sp). My very first controller, its sport mode was how everyone describes here, simply take the yellow/white and bridge it to ground for continuous sport mode or put it to a switch. the other 2 controllers which were bought 5 months apart from the first one, it always starts in default mode then all you need to do is just touch the yellow/white wire to ground and it will switch to sport, then to get back to default mode you touch the wire again. so it doesn't need to be connected consonantly just touched, also my supplier says now sport mode is only activated for 30 sec then switches back to default.... i wish it was just like my first one, since i just want it in sport mode all the time. i guess i could just make high mode default then change my flux weakening and bus bar amps (150amps, flux 3000,3000)where sport mode was and that should be the same as sport mode, in theory

Can you post some screenshots of port config and page 2 tabs of these two controllers? Are the HW/SW versions reported the same?

Now if this really works like you described... it sucks ... big time. "Hige" (-; mode is (or at least used to be) practically useless because of a huge throttle / current rise delay.

I have it all apart as I'm painting all frame/parts etc. but I can recheck later, in the meantime i did make a video of it not working and i do show the all software pages at the very end of video( you can pause frame to read it). this is a complete aluminum dirt bike i made out of a few junk yard parts etc.. dual qs 138 motors on a jackshaft system. I have also ran into a problem with one of the controllers not spinning any motor i plug it into. It worked before but now it wont spin, so i made this video to show supplier before i send back the controller to them.. the only thing i changed on the software from being stock is - sport mode 3,000 3,000 flux. (sport mode came stock at 3000,200.) also i changed the start throttle volt from 1.25 to .88v. ( i did change all back to original spec and still no spin of motor.)


video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVrW-Jy3fvU

 

[Bartosh]

Try to disable SW at PB3, as well as rest of all the unnecessary "features" (like PD0, PA12, you decide). I suggest to start as clean as possible and then give it a spin. Make sure settings on page 3 are set properly (especially hall related). BTW I also have some controllers reporting bogus temp vals. Edit: absolutely awesome build.

 

[rexfordk83]

Try to disable SW at PB3, as well as rest of all the unnecessary "features" (like PD0, PA12, you decide). I suggest to start as clean as possible and then give it a spin. Make sure settings on page 3 are set properly (especially hall related). BTW I also have some controllers reporting bogus temp vals. Edit: absolutely awesome build.

got it to work just now, bad power wire for testing. its sometimes hard to keep track of all new wires when having 2 setups( 2 motors 2 controllers etc)

this build i wanted all about tq and since the 2 motors would provide about 110-120 nm at shaft, i can gear this tall and have some good top end speed, but def don't care much of top end, i just want to smash any hill. i decided on a 5:1 gear ratio ( that still gives about 550-600nm at rear wheel). the lipos are out of a chevys bolt, the LG chem 60 ah cells. for me to keep this battery in good condition i needed to wire them in a 2p config, because theoretically this system should be able to get to the 300amps(150 each motor). so that makes a huge battery @ 88.2volts 120ah. its not too heavy at all plus the all aluminum design. i would imagine one could charge this full ,put it on trailer and go to the camp grounds and ride all weekend. i used forks off of a Yamaha 450f and a rear shock off of a kx250. the design length and height had to change because of these forks are so long, so this made me have to have the rake angle of forks more slanted -thus causing that unfavorable long look like something out of mad max...no bms on this build just using it for charging, i don't want anything to get in the way of discharge power. but i did use a amp meter that wires to my neg side and shows up at my wireless display and this will tell me everything about the battery. and i made sure i got the Bluetooth bms so i can monitor my cells as they charge in Realtime. the display will have 5 temp sensor, one for each motor and each controller and one for the battery. also have a gps speed o meter..

the battery pic is just the one side, there is a duplicate that will be wired parallel

 

[John in CR]

Can anyone tell that the EM72150SP has motor overheat cutoff function? Does it also have overheat protection for itself?

Yes, and you can see in the thread that the controller overheat function has been discussed a lot.

Thanks

Another question. Is its regen efficient? I ordered a budget greentime controller and its regen is very inefficient maybe 50% of the energy goes into the battery and the rest heats the motor like crazy.

Are you sure you got the greentime with regen braking and not one with just electric braking? I have had both from them and the one with electric braking that doesn't recharge the battery dissipates the energy 100% in the motor, controller and wiring.

 

[Sattva Ram]

Yes I am sure, it's the 15 fet with "regen". I can see the minus current on the screen so it definitely has regen, but it's very inefficient by my rough estimation it's around 40-50% efficient the max current is like 12 Amps while the braking power exceeds well over 30 Amps by feel, it's very strong.

I had an 18 fet before with only e-abs. That controller practically burnt my motor cause of the eabs and because I didnt have thermometer at that time.

When I had the 18 fet i used to switch the e-abs button on and off very swiftly and I could induce some regen current that way. So I guess the 15 fet does the same it switches the e-abs on and off quickly but that aint no true regen.

I guess it's no problem tho I am almost sure that the votol has proper regen. So I guess I go with it.

 

[rexfordk83]

Try to disable SW at PB3, as well as rest of all the unnecessary "features" (like PD0, PA12, you decide). I suggest to start as clean as possible and then give it a spin. Make sure settings on page 3 are set properly (especially hall related). BTW I also have some controllers reporting bogus temp vals. Edit: absolutely awesome build.

Thank you Bartosh. this fixed the sport mode activation (go to port menu click pb3 tab and click off the SW..) looks like my supplier changed that value on me to probably help there returns etc..

 

[Zubair1991]

Hello everyone.
Who can help me fix motor hal and hall fault

Any updates to this I have the same issue

 

[Zubair1991]

Hi there gents,

Im new on this forum, im having similar issues with my Em150 and QS3000 mid drive motor Fault codes 0000008 for Motor Hal and Hall Fault boxes are checked.



im literally at a stage of pulling my hair out, as ive tried all sorts to get the motor to spin with the throttle cable and remove the fault codes your help would be very much appreciated please see attached images below.


Regards

 

[Irling]

I have an EM100C (72350) controller, unfortunately I can't set it up to work well with my Surron bike motor (5 pair). At low revs, it works well, but as the accelerator increases, the current rises, the revs drop, the rotor starts to heat up. I have tried changing the degrees of the halls, however, it is not possible to achieve stable operation at high speeds with little current consumption. Perhaps you have thoughts what the problem is? I recorded a short video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9npHtn9VDQ