When and where is best to buy a dual suspension bike?

[torker]

That is a good point. I almost looked there but I am such a noobe when it comes to high end bikes. Makes sense though especially if you are going with a hub and don't need the rear wheel anyway. Plus I would like to lace my motor in a 20 inch rim and up the volts like YPedal did. Might be time to sell a recumbent

 

[dogman dan]

I spent a lot of time on Ebay looking at frames, whole bikes, etc before scoring my specialized at the local shop. I got real interested in frames way beyond my normal price range.

But when looking at the higher end stuff, your wallmart bike derailur, brakes etc may not even fit a higher end bike. So try to find a frame with at least the derailurs still on it if you can. If you already have a better bike, IE derailur hangs from the frame, not the axle bolt, 1 1/8 headset, 8 or 9 speeds on the rear, then stuff will likely swap onto the new bike. A really quality frame won't even have rim brake attachments, forcing you to upgrade to disk....

Just getting it all already on the bike may be the best route in the end. But the price range is at least $500-800 for the lower end of the nice bikes, that msrp'ed at $1200-1500. Pretty much figure on paying about half the msrp for stuff. Less was possible for me, but only because I show up with other shit to trade with at the used bike shop, and I'll buy a bike with broken stuff on it.

 

[joe tomten]

I really hesitate to ask this- but here goes.

What about this thing from Walmart?

26" Men's Mongoose XR-Comp Dual-Suspension Bike

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10927850

disc brakes, full suspension, decent reviews by some knowledgabe folk (if they're not all made up). And a price that is actually something I can afford.

 

[swbluto]

Buying a frame sounds like a great idea, since I have a few donor bikes that could contribute parts and I could also get parts from the local non-profit "used bike parts & DIY bicycle shop" place. But... I don't really know what parts I would have to buy and whether those unforeseen parts would add up to a cost greater than just buying a used complete bicycle (And buying a used bicycle would be obviously easier.).

I have a 1 1/8" fork, so I think that'd fit in a standard 1 1/8" frame. I might be wrong, though.

I have the disc brakes and wheels.

Derailleur? Hell if I know. But I'm planning on making it a cruz-bike anyways so I guess that shouldn't matter...

Sprocket type?

Handle bars? (My handle bar is huge in diameter on the other bikes)

Headset stuff?

There are just so many unknowns about incompatibility.

 

[Drunkskunk]

I really hesitate to ask this- but here goes.

What about this thing from Walmart?

Junk. the first clue is the "nifty" spoke pattern, which sacrafices strength just to look cool.
Its essentualy an highly pollished turd.

Everything that has a review on Walmart's site has "great reviews"

 

[joe tomten]

thanks drunkskunk,

that's just what i wanted to hear.

joe

 

[spinningmagnets]

I had a new WalMart $200 dual-sus bike with a front disc for a year. It was "adequate", but I ended up selling it for $100 after a year, and getting a used hard-tail Specialized Down-Hill bike. I have 3 bikes, and I'm currently making the DH into a long-tail full-suspension.

I felt there was nothing "wrong" with the $200 Chinese bike, but I wouldn't pay more because you'll never get your money back on it. Once you start talking about selling a used $400 China-bike for $300-ish, there are some really good used bikes out there for the patient hunter around $250, so your $400 China-bike will actually sell for $150-ish used.

That being said...borrow a well-made brand-name dual-sus bike and ride it around the block...every little thing works better and feels better.

 

[dogman dan]

The wall mart bike for about $400 is perfect.....When you get it used at a garage sale with two flat tires for $20-50. 8)

Do not consider paying full nickle for that one used unless you are in a hurry. Wayyyyy better off to up the ante to $500-$800 so you can get something really nice with some wear on it.

Hell of a lot easier said than done though to actually find that great deal on a really quality bike. You are talking about being the first one there after the old man dies leaving his precious stable of 10 year old bikes. The reseller immediately marks it up to $800 once he gets it. So you need to be there when sombeody opens the storage locker they bought at auction, etc.

But maybe you don't have those options, you want to ride this summer, not next, etc. If so, you could do worse than to buy that $400 wallmart mongoose. But what really matters on that decision is the intended use. For serious dirt riding, forget it. For a bike that will ride street, with the occasionall dirt road or easy singletrack, it actually is not so bad a choice.

But you will have to throw both wheels in the trashcan! :lol: The frame itself will be fairly adequate provided you don't try to strap 50 pounds on panniers. If you do, the tail will wag like a happy dogs. But it will carry a 20 pound 48v pack ok back there. It will have 1 1/8 headset making adding a really nice fork later possible. It will likely have a steel rear swingarm that makes cool stuff like a welded pinch dropout possible. But the frame will not stand landing jumps or serious single track riding. The frame will be made of much lighter and weaker tubing than a real DH bike has.

As a frame for a commuter, it's actually not that bad a choice at all. If you will run a front hub, make sure the forks have space for a set of good tourqe arms, and that the motor will fit between the shocks.

 

[swbluto]

So, I was at the local "Discount store" where overstock from other stores is typically given to sell, and I found a dual suspension diamond back bike with 4.5" of travel for... $179. That's pretty much a steal since the cheapest dual suspension diamond back mountain bike I can find is something like $580 dollars online (Listings online suggest $495 was a common price from bicycle shops).

Most people I can find online say the shocks are "junk", but I'm not perturbed by that. It looks like a downhill bike so people are judging it from its "downhill" worthiness, so if it gets a "mediocre rating" from the downhill crowd, then it must be excellent for my intended use.

The caveat was that a pedal was missing and that the front wheel is warped. Oh well. I'll replace the front wheel with another wheel I have, and I plan on downgrading the back wheel to 20". That'll give me room to mount an outrunner motor right behind the pivot where the derailleur hangs (The roundness is perfect for mounting), and the 20" wheel will make the gearing a little less demanding. It has a disc brake on the back though without v-post mounts, so I may have to run through the cranks or I may have to give up a back disc brake. By mounting it on the "pivoting part of the wheel", I won't have to deal with chain growth or shrinkage from pivoting (And because it's near the pivot itself, it'll sustain less "impact" than outer parts of the wheel when swinging).

 

[MitchJi]

Hi,

I have a Haro Sonix Frame I'm selling. I bought it from a Haro employee who said it was a demo unit. It looks brand new.

I'm asking $400 plus shipping (pretty firm on the price).

Here's the thread in the For Sale Forum:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18789&p=273898#p273898

This frame retailed for $1099.99.