Why is my new hub motor making my controller super hot?

[Alan B]

The motor should have the wires it needs for normal operation, since the motor manufacturer knows what the motor requires. They generally do go on the light side because wire is expensive, so hot-rodders often increase the wire. But for normal use it should be adequate.

The controller vendor needs to put wire on that will handle the max current the controller can put out. Again they tend to use lighter gauge wire, but it is not necessarily matching the motor.

If the motor wire is getting hot this indicates the motor is being operated at currents higher than was intended, or perhaps that it has a problem like a shorted turn.

Interesting that the old 600W controller is operating sensorless.

 

[d8veh]

I see. I'm still curious how it is that my controller its now working sensorless. I'm going to test it on my old motor to see if SHE works without the halls plugged in.

I tested my old motor with the hall disconnected. It too worked sensorless. It's a controller quirk.

You have a dual mode controller. many of the ones with automatic phase/hall detection are also dual mode.

 

[ClintBX]

Alright, another update on the sitch. I've changed the connectors to the banana bullets with PA heat resistence housings. Gotta say, they're a lot cooler now. Though I guess its hard to tell through the heat resistent housings but now I have peace of.mind that they're not melting and I don't have to always worry about whether they're touching for fear that they'll melt and cross each other.

The drawback is my soldering skills suck. I have to redo one of them because of a cold solder.

And also, the controller is still piping hot.

I guess all that's left to do is to create more airflow and to test the halls of the motor to check that they still work. (To diagnose the new controller's failure to work)