Wireless Wii Nunchuck *TESTERS WANTED

[psychotiller]

Just wanted to check in and let everyone know I just had another flawless experience with the Wiimote and my pintail. This thing rocks.

 

[torqueboards]

Awesome... hopefully soon we'll have the new batch.. just waiting too...

 

[Bazaki]

Is it somehow possible to use a Wii remote as an ebike throttle? Ebike controller.

 

[gcebiker]

you would need three hands...two for bike and one for Wii Nunchuck ? But sure. It would replace your hand grip throttle.

The long boards have no handle bars and thus no need for three hands. :?

 

[Bazaki]

I am making an electric surfboard and want to make a Wii remote waterproof and than use it as a throttle. So I hope that it is possible to use a Wii remote for an ebike controller.

 

[austindavid]

I am making an electric surfboard and want to make a Wii remote waterproof and than use it as a throttle. So I hope that it is possible to use a Wii remote for an ebike controller.

It wouldn't be too hard; the wiiceiver outputs a PPM signal used for RC ESCs, but it would not be difficult to change it to output straight PWM for a voltage level (which many eBike controllers seem to use); you'd need some relatively minor coding changes and changes to the circuitry, but i think it'd be a few lines and a capacitor.

What motor are you using? "Electric Surfboard" sounds kinda like "Jet Ski"...

 

[Bazaki]

No jet for me, I'm trying a direct drive turnigy under water.

This Bluetooth Wii receiver to an ebike controller signal, can someone make this maybe ? I want to pay for this ofcourse.

 

[gcebiker]

I have a plush 60amp here and some Turnigy brushless motors , i could tinker with AusinDavids code, All you would need is one of his Wii Recievers and the right code and it would work.

Can you tell me the brand and model of the controller you want to use with the Turnigy ?

 

[torqueboards]

All you would need is one of his Wii Recievers and the right code and it would work.

Should be available soon...

 

[melodious]

Should be available soon...

Looking forward to the new batch. Count me in brah!

 

[Bazaki]

I want to use sensorless controllers like 18 fet and 24 fet from greentime.

 

[austindavid]

Update: The new batch of PCBs has arrived, and as of this morning I have two units ready to go. I'll have torqueboards ship them out, and we're going to have a solder-party to make a bunch more. We have plenty of parts to cover those who have expressed interest; you'll be contacted about shipping &c.

 

[furp]

I am considering getting one of your rx, only problem is I live across the pond. What shipping prices do you expect for EU shipping and would you be able to sell a matching nunchuck, say nyko kama, as well?

 

[torqueboards]

I am considering getting one of your rx, only problem is I live across the pond. What shipping prices do you expect for EU shipping and would you be able to sell a matching nunchuck, say nyko kama, as well?

Yes, we can ship international. We also have black nyko kama wireless nunchucks available for $10.

Shipping should be around $10.00 or so if it's under 13 oz via first class mail through USPS. If it's small flat rate box international it should be around $20 or so.

I can work with you to get the lowest shipping if you want.

 

[beto_pty]

Hi torque
For mine I would appreciate both units bundeles with the nykos in a single bag..
Shipping costs me more than the Nykos LOL

 

[torqueboards]

Hi torque
For mine I would appreciate both units bundeles with the nykos in a single bag..
Shipping costs me more than the Nykos LOL

Sure thing. I know, they make a ton of money at times when shipping is the same cost as the item itself. LOL + all those packages they loose on purpose!!! :x

 

[torqueboards]

Ready To Be Shipped!

We have about (22) plug and play's available and ready to be shipped. We have an additional 20 or so setup for bag o parts and/or for us to solder for those who prefer the plug and play.

Currently, the price is $40 for plug and play $25 for bag o parts and $10 for a black nyko kama. Ball park pricing until I figure out the final shipping price -- $6 USA $10 International via First Class USPS.

I'll be sending a PM to those who expressed interest in an order fashion to keep it fair.

 

[indestruct]

This product is very easy to sync and is user friendly! Thanks guys!

Is it possible to use the iphone to act as a controller through this device? Also I noticed when I try to calibrate the throttle on my EZRUN pro 150, the engine won't stop running in neutral. Did anyone else notice this?
I think the acceleration is too sensitive, perhaps the throttle acceleration shouldn't be so linear, but maybe start off slower and accelerate faster towards the end of maximum throttle. Of course I'm still waiting for all the pieces to completely assemble my board. So time will tell.

 

[austindavid]

This product is very easy to sync and is user friendly! Thanks guys!

Is it possible to use the iphone to act as a controller through this device? Also I noticed when I try to calibrate the throttle on my EZRUN pro 150, the engine won't stop running in neutral. Did anyone else notice this?
I think the acceleration is too sensitive, perhaps the throttle acceleration shouldn't be so linear, but maybe start off slower and accelerate faster towards the end of maximum throttle. Of course I'm still waiting for all the pieces to completely assemble my board. So time will tell.

Glad you like it.

iPhone: no. Also, do you want to drop (or fall on...) your iPhone while riding around at 20-30 mph?

Your motor should coast to a stop in neutral -- that should be "neutral". If you don't plug in a chuck at all, does it still happen? If you hold back on the throttle a little, does it stop?

You can press/hold C on the chuck, then start the ESC + unit, then wait a solid 5s. Longer is OK. That should set the neutral spot on the controller. Then pressing up == ESC goes, back == ESC brakes, middle / no stick contact == idle, so the ESC will slow to a stop depending on your gear / belt setup, weight of wheels, etc. Should take a few seconds to actually slow down. The brakes will be pretty abrupt without weight on it.

re: acceleration: try it while standing on the board. If it's still too much, we'll talk. It is specifically linear now; depending on your ESC you might be able to program a curved throttle, you're describing "exponential". Depends on the board, motors, wheels & gearing, ESC (of course), etc. I generally recommend a linear map and use your thumb to control the board, but it's a pretty personal decision.

As is, you have 2 options: 1) don't press the stick so hard. 2) use C + stick, that's "cruise control" and it accelerates WAY slower than using the stick. I've been thinking about a different throttle control (with the chuck) for my own use but haven't done anything yet. Totally open to good ideas though.

 

[indestruct]

This product is very easy to sync and is user friendly! Thanks guys!

Is it possible to use the iphone to act as a controller through this device? Also I noticed when I try to calibrate the throttle on my EZRUN pro 150, the engine won't stop running in neutral. Did anyone else notice this?
I think the acceleration is too sensitive, perhaps the throttle acceleration shouldn't be so linear, but maybe start off slower and accelerate faster towards the end of maximum throttle. Of course I'm still waiting for all the pieces to completely assemble my board. So time will tell.

Glad you like it.

iPhone: no. Also, do you want to drop (or fall on...) your iPhone while riding around at 20-30 mph?

Your motor should coast to a stop in neutral -- that should be "neutral". If you don't plug in a chuck at all, does it still happen? If you hold back on the throttle a little, does it stop?

You can press/hold C on the chuck, then start the ESC + unit, then wait a solid 5s. Longer is OK. That should set the neutral spot on the controller. Then pressing up == ESC goes, back == ESC brakes, middle / no stick contact == idle, so the ESC will slow to a stop depending on your gear / belt setup, weight of wheels, etc. Should take a few seconds to actually slow down. The brakes will be pretty abrupt without weight on it.

re: acceleration: try it while standing on the board. If it's still too much, we'll talk. It is specifically linear now; depending on your ESC you might be able to program a curved throttle, you're describing "exponential". Depends on the board, motors, wheels & gearing, ESC (of course), etc. I generally recommend a linear map and use your thumb to control the board, but it's a pretty personal decision.

As is, you have 2 options: 1) don't press the stick so hard. 2) use C + stick, that's "cruise control" and it accelerates WAY slower than using the stick. I've been thinking about a different throttle control (with the chuck) for my own use but haven't done anything yet. Totally open to good ideas though.

The motor doesn't move in neutral. However when I try to calibrate the maximum throttle end points on my ESC (per the ESC's instructions), the motor just runs by itself, even without touching the stick. My guess is I can't calibrate the wiimote end points to the ESC and it's all written in the circuit board...

On another note, when holding the C for a long period of time i have noticed the motor cut out and both green and red lights would flash repeatedly.

 

[austindavid]

The motor doesn't move in neutral. However when I try to calibrate the maximum throttle end points on my ESC (per the ESC's instructions), the motor just runs by itself, even without touching the stick. My guess is I can't calibrate the wiimote end points to the ESC and it's all written in the circuit board...

On another note, when holding the C for a long period of time i have noticed the motor cut out and both green and red lights would flash repeatedly.

Ah, ok. What are the calibration instructions?

When you just press the stick (and no other input) the smoothing will act like the stick is being slowly pushed forward over the course of about 2 seconds. The calibration process probably wants more direct input -- hold Z and try it. Z disables the smoothing.

re: C -- those two lights flashing is the wiiceiver going into inactivity mode. If you wiggle the chuck it won't happen. Unfortunately "a chuck held very still" looks exactly like "a chuck that was disconnected" or "a chuck that was dropped," this is a safety feature.

 

[indestruct]

Ah, ok. What are the calibration instructions?

When you just press the stick (and no other input) the smoothing will act like the stick is being slowly pushed forward over the course of about 2 seconds. The calibration process probably wants more direct input -- hold Z and try it. Z disables the smoothing.

re: C -- those two lights flashing is the wiiceiver going into inactivity mode. If you wiggle the chuck it won't happen. Unfortunately "a chuck held very still" looks exactly like "a chuck that was disconnected" or "a chuck that was dropped," this is a safety feature.

Excellent the Z button worked! For calibration on the ezrun pro 150a, Hold down Set while turning on the ESC, then press SET in Neutral, Press Set at full forward throttle, and press set at full reverse throttle. Also great to know about the safety feature, thanks for explaining everything.

 

[austindavid]

Excellent the Z button worked! For calibration on the ezrun pro 150a, Hold down Set while turning on the ESC, then press SET in Neutral, Press Set at full forward throttle, and press set at full reverse throttle. Also great to know about the safety feature, thanks for explaining everything.

Awesome, glad you figured it out. Now get that thing assembled so you can give us a rolling review!

 

[torqueboards]

My wiiceiver is working flawlessly as well too. I originally had a faulty wiiceiver probably due to my flashing of the wiiceiver. Re-flashed it and there are no longer any issues and dont notice it dropping at all anymore.

So far safe as it can be. I've also shipped a lot of these wiiceivers within the past week. Please let us know your feedback and if you have any questions. I should have more photos for installation soon. Although its pretty straight forward.

 

[austindavid]

hey guys -- It has come to my attention that I'm a dingus. I mislabeled 24 wiiceivers we made on 7/13 - if you got one labeled with 7/13 or 7/14, note that the servo pins on the top are *normal*, same as your RC receiver. The RC pattern is (S + -), with power in the middle. The ground pin (black or brown on the ESC cable) is near the edge of the wiiceiver, signal (white or yellow probably, not red) S is toward the nunchuck. Don't try to adjust your servo cable, just plug it in. Maybe sharpie-out the marks on there to avoid confusion.

So sorry about that! We're updating the ones that go out now. If this caused any problems please let us know, we'll make it right.