Yamaha YZ250F

[j bjork]

This is logged with the phone:

I just click "enable rt data logging", I dont think I can choose what is logged or how often.
I can also send can data, then there are more choices:

I tried earlier to log with the shul express (copy of vesc express), but it seems like the can receiver died or something.
The controllers can buss where sending like crazy, but the express were dead silent. I think it didnt even had the base voltage, but I am not sure I remember correctly. It is in the thread somewhere.

 

[_electricfox_]

I suppose it limits as the the battery voltage sags badly, but the logger dosent seem to keep up very good with whats happening:

These are one frame at the time. So you can see the first one has low voltage, like 65% load and 260bA, almost 12000erpm (3000rpm). Next frame, duty goes down to 25%, voltage up to 116, rpm down 8600earpm (2150rpm). Those make sense, but power goes up, almost 50kw, 427bA. Next frame duty and erpm goes up, voltage, power and current goes down.
You can also see the grey line that where it is supposed to be in the log, it dosent correspond to the peak at all.
I would need a lot higher log frequency to get better results I suppose.

The problem with the gray line is well known. It is simply an incorrect representation that is offset in time. The values at that moment correspond to each other.

 

[_electricfox_]

This is logged with the phone:

I just click "enable rt data logging", I dont think I can choose what is logged or how often.
I can also send can data, then there are more choices:

I tried earlier to log with the shul express (copy of vesc express), but it seems like the can receiver died or something.
The controllers can buss where sending like crazy, but the express were dead silent. I think it didnt even had the base voltage, but I am not sure I remember correctly. It is in the thread somewhere.

"enable rt data" on your cell phone will record all values that can be recorded, including your GPS from your phone.
Using VESC Express with enabled "GNSS" will only log if your external GPS module, being connected to your EXPRESS, has a GPS Signal.

 

[j bjork]

Thanks _electricfox_ , that can be good to know about not logging without gps signal on the express. In my case the controller couldnt connect to the express at all.

However, now I have a bigger problem. I was attacked by a gang of trees on saturday:

Im not sure exactly how it happened, but I think I hit something that almost ripped the handlebars out of my hands.
What happened then is when my hand opens, the throttle rolls against the fingers so I probably hit full throttle or close to it.

Well that is the big disadvantige with electric, it dosent start roaring and thinking about accelerating in a near future.
It just hooks up and takes off. Cool when you are in control, not so when you are not.

I got a bit beat up as well: A crack in the foot and hand, sprained wrist, 3 stitches in the chin and some stuff like that.
The doctor put me on sick leave for 3 weeks

 

[PK2000]

I got a bit beat up as well: A crack in the foot and hand, sprained wrist, 3 stitches in the chin and some stuff like that.
The doctor put me on sick leave for 3 weeks

Ouch! Hope it's not too bad, or at least the doctors gave you some good drugs!
Trees! Can someone please explain why we are trying to save them with our EV's when THIS is how they thank us?

 

[DaLanMan]

Sir, it appears you have a serious case of the bang owchies.

My Daughter in the wisdom of a 3 year old told me after i got reminded I am no longer a kid and BMX bikes are not my friend. That I got bang owchies every time I rode a bike, maybe I should stop.

 

[j bjork]

Ouch! Hope it's not too bad, or at least the doctors gave you some good drugs!
Trees! Can someone please explain why we are trying to save them with our EV's when THIS is how they thank us?

The doctors didnt give me anything funny, the only thing I got was some local anesthesia when stitching up my chin
The worst part is the damn foot:

How it looks without bandadges. It is hard to see in the picture, but all the front half is swollen. So it is hard to stand or walk.

 

[Eastwood]

The doctors didnt give me anything funny, the only thing I got was some local anesthesia when stitching up my chin
The worst part is the damn foot:

How it looks without bandadges. It is hard to see in the picture, but all the front half is swollen. So it is hard to stand or walk.

Fill a bucket with ice and water then submerge your foot in the bucket for 20min. That will get the inflammation down quicker than anything. You can try traditional ice packs, but it’s just not the same. The bucket method is brutally cold for the first few minutes but then goes numb. if you can get the inflammation down, the pain goes with it.

 

[Dui ni shuo de dui]

I got a bit beat up as well: A crack in the foot and hand, sprained wrist, 3 stitches in the chin and some stuff like that.
The doctor put me on sick leave for 3 weeks

Aw that sucks, hope you'll recover quickly.

 

[j bjork]

20min in ice water sounds dangerous.. I just let the body do its thing. I planned to ask the doctors what they thought about it yesterday when I was there on a checkup, but forgot.
I got better during last week, by the end of the week I could move around and do something else than watching tv for a while.
But I dont think there has been much improvement since then

Anyway, I get a little done now. And I have started slowly repairing the bike:

Well, the display seems broken
Luckily I had a spare one.

The foot peg return spring broke (again), the left one as every other time it has happened..

I decided to change throttle as well, it was rather worn and the wires were damaged after the crash.
I had some new ones. I thought I ordered 2 that were the same as the one I had, and 2 different ones.
It turned out none of them were the same as I had before.

I tested the twist angle, and got 61 degrees on the one with the wire strait out. (marked only with 192x)
On the other ones I got 66 degrees.

I wonder if I got it right? On all of them I got 147mm circumference on the big part of the grip, and there is where I measured.
360/147=2,45mm/degree.
And I got 27mm on the 2 similar looking, 27x2,45=66,15 degrees, 25mm on the other one.

Anyway, I went with the one I have two of, the grip was glued on pretty well

 

[j bjork]

Some new, some old.. I think it is ready for action now, but I am not..

 

[j bjork]

At the hospital they asked several times how fast I was going, like I would know?
Not very fast at first, as it was after a 180 degree turn with trees in the way and a rocky part of the track. But then I accidentally hit the throttle, and the bike didnt hesitate..
But I actually logged when it happened, so I can get a pretty good idea.

It seems I was going 30-35kph before it happened, then when I had the most power (37,777kw) I hit 54kph, and the moment later 147w and 60kph. So I suppose when I hit the second tree and got knocked off I had 54, then the bike hit the ground and lost power but got some more speed on the wheel.

These rear brake disc guards is something I seem to brake now and then:

So I thought it could be good cad practice to make my own 3d print version.
It usually breaks close to the screws, so I tried to make that area stronger.
This is PLA, but I am printing one in ABS now. It looks like it will work, but I guess we will see..

 

[j bjork]

Alright, first ride in 5 weeks
Maybe I should have tried to get the boots on before going to the track..
It turned out I could, but it wasent easy. And it wasent any easier to get the boot off.

It was very wet and muddy:

I decided I better hose down the trousers before washing them

They had partly smoothed the track, it was very soft in those areas.
And muddy..

My pla brake guard didnt last long.

 

[PK2000]

Good to see you get back on the horse!

 

[j bjork]

There has been some work done on the bike, suspension has been rebuilt and re-valved (again).
It seems to be smoother, but I havent run any rocky tracks yet, and have very worn mousses.

I bought a new primary chain a long time ago, but hadnt come around to change it.
I decided it was time after I had a noise in the transmission (that very likely was the secondary chain)

I almost changed my mind as it seemed to be in very good condition, and still god tension as well.

Ok, there is the expensive chain..

And a sticker so you will know the difference

The ABS brake disc guard died today, it lasted for a while at least.
I think I will make one more and see how it goes.

It was a very interesting practice today. There was a competition on Tuesday on this track, with about 350 riders I think, and it was wet.. It was mayhem, with deep tracks etc all over the place.
It looked pretty bad at first, but after a few laps when you started finding tracks it was really funny

Lots of crossing tracks, riding on the ridges between tracks and so on.
It worked well most of the time but not always:

This track is usually a bit dull, but not today
But it hurts everywhere now, got cramps in both legs when I was eating..

 

[PK2000]

That sticker gets you an extra 5kW!

 

[rivvs]

hi, jbjork did you make a cover to protect the controller from water/mud? I just received my cl1000 and I will need to mount it where the radiator normally mounted. But it des not looks to be waterproof.

 

[j bjork]

hi, jbjork did you make a cover to protect the controller from water/mud? I just received my cl1000 and I will need to mount it where the radiator normally mounted. But it des not looks to be waterproof.

It should be waterproof. My cl1400:s is potted, and I think the cl1000 should be too. My connector wasnt though, as there were holes trough the seals at the unused pins. I put some 3d printer filament in the holes, there are pictures of it in the thread.

However, I did make a fiberglass cover for the "backside" of the controller. To shield from rocks, pressure washing etc. Also so you cant reach the high voltage with the fingers. There are pictures of that in the thread too.

 

[j bjork]

Mousses are nice, but expensive and wears out rather fast.
I did this trick on the front before, now I did it on the rear wheel too:

I took an old tube, a 4mm thick one. I cut it open like a fish and put the mousse inside.
It seems to work pretty ok

I changed linkage bearings again, damn they were bad

It wasnt too long ago that I had it apart and greased them.
This time I decided to drill holes for grease nipples (is that really the right word, sounds kind of kinky?) in the linkage too.
I did it in the swing arm and wishbone last time.
I cant use it to grease the bearings when it is mounted, because I push out the seals.
I can use it like this:

This is how I drilled it:

I hesitated because it is a high stressed part, but I think this way the weakening should be minimal.

 

[j bjork]

Not much news on the bike, made a new discguard again:

I think I should redesign it and make it thinner.
Maybe then it would flex more and not break so easily.

I think a have had my alpinestars tech 7 about a year, and they are already braking apart:

Maybe it can be repaired, but I started looking at other boots.
More protection sounded interesting, and from what I found gaerne seems to be the best quality boots you can find:

I ended up buying sg12 enduro version, expensive
Damn, they are stiff. I had to walk around in them a few hours before trying them on the bike.
They press on the ankle so it hurts pretty bad at first, but they get ok after a while.

When the mud has reached the foot, you know that the boot is officially inaugurated

 

[Dui ni shuo de dui]

I think I should redesign it and make it thinner.
Maybe then it would flex more and not break so easily.

Don't change your design, just print it using TPU. This material is incredibly tough.
There are different TPU hardnesses, take one that's relatively stiff, not the softests ones so it won't deform under normal operation.
I printed a few parts out of TPU on my gas bike and they work great. For example my rear sprocket dampers are printed in PTU because I couldn't find the original parts in China so I had to design and print my own, they are working well.

 

[j bjork]

Don't change your design, just print it using TPU. This material is incredibly tough.
There are different TPU hardnesses, take one that's relatively stiff, not the softests ones so it won't deform under normal operation.
I printed a few parts out of TPU on my gas bike and they work great. For example my rear sprocket dampers are printed in PTU because I couldn't find the original parts in China so I had to design and print my own, they are working well.

Yes, that is probably a good idea. I havent got in to any exotic materials so far, only PLA and ABS. I think the stiffer versions of TPU should work on my ender 3, but I will have to read up on it.

It broke again:

First I thought that it had more or less just cracked, but when I took it off I could see that it has taken a pretty hard hit.
I will glue this one, but soon I will have to make a change.
Big competition coming up this weekend..

 

[harrisonpatm]

Yes, that is probably a good idea. I havent got in to any exotic materials so far, only PLA and ABS. I think the stiffer versions of TPU should work on my ender 3, but I will have to read up on it.

It broke again:

First I thought that it had more or less just cracked, but when I took it off I could see that it has taken a pretty had hit.
I will glue this one, but soon I will have to make a change.
Big competition coming up this weekend..

@Dui ni shuo de dui is right, your design is good, and TPU 95A is printable on an Ender3, even if you don't have the direct drive upgrade. In addition to TPU being able to flex (so it won't just crack), it has probably the best layer adhesion of any filament. We can see from your broken prints that the breakage is happening along layer lines, so TPU is def gonna "fix" the issue.

SainSmart is a well-known brand that should give you good results, but if you search for any TPU branf with 95A hardness, it should be stiff enough that you are unlikely to have many issues printing on an Ender 3. Start with a max print speed of 20mm/s, layer height of .16mm, cooling fan below 50%, nozzle temp 230, bed temp 60-80.

 

[j bjork]

Thanks, and I found the like button again
I usually forget to use it..

Now it is just about getting ready for race.. Tomorrow (Friday) it is time for "stångebroslaget"
I will race in two classes, electric on Friday and 40-49 years old class on Saturday

The electric class is 60+20min (the flag drops after 60min, then you have 20 min to finish) on a track claimed to be 9km long.
The age class is 120+60min on this 21km track:

It is my club that arrange it, and we were able to test the track last weekend when we were finished setting it up.
That is where the log comes from. The 9km track is the northern and about half of the middle part I suppose.
There were some muddy and slippery parts, but with a week of a little cloudy but rain free weather it would be perfect.

Unfortunately we didn't get that, it has been raining on and off all week. It will be mayhem out there
I dont really mind a little bit of mud, but in these big races with 100:s starting at the same time it just clogs up and it is very hard to get anywhere on the first lap.

 

[j bjork]

On the practice last week it started running rough. I first feared that the controller started giving up again, but I noticed it was just on low rpm. So, very likely a hall sensor problem. I have had a similar problem before after I had washed the bike, but then it worked after I restarted it.

I took a look in the motor to se if there was water or corrosion:

There was a little water on the lid, but other than that it looked ok.
The sensor was glued in place. I didnt want to risk any problems, so I left it there.

I could get it to run rough or fine by moving the wires at the connector to the hall sensor in the wiring.
I tried to see something in vesc by running some sort of lisp program or something:

It seemed fine either way, all the sensors were changing 1-0.
I took apart the connector, it was a little wet inside.
It comes with too big seals for these small wires:

I have also cut them earlier when changing back and forth between controllers.
I should change to a better connector, but I dont have any at the moment.
What I did was changing the shrink tube to longer ones with glue inside.
I then put the seals over the shrink tube, hopefully it will seal now.
The bike seems to work so far at least

I took a look at the primary chain, there was a little slack now.
The oil looked a bit weird too, but there didnt seem to be water in it.
It was probably the wax or something that was on the chain when I mounted it.

I adjusted the chain a little. This time I didnt make a cork seal, I just sealed it with silicone.

I have range anxiety
I plan to do 3 laps on that 9km track on one battery. It shouldent be a problem, but it has rained a lot..
A lot of mud will draw extra juice. And what if the 9km track as actually 11km?

I charged all the way to 4,2V this time, I dont think I have ever done that before.
After a while it was down to 4,193V, it will be interesting to see if it drops more.

That is it I suppose, the bike is ready with numbers, transponder and stuff.
Auuff, how is this going to end?!