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Your Creation's Before & After Pics

On a 30+mph ebike good front suspension is a must. Doesn't need to air, decent quality spring forks work (for road). A lot of people use a suspension seat post, That keeps the hard bump up the rear in check.

My quickest ebike is a 350w front hub motor on an old Cannodale Badboy. You don't need all that much suspension when you're pedaling hard.
PXL_20250726_012036195 (1).jpg
 
suspension seatposts are like the cheap fix for small bumps, but they won't help the bike's handling, which is what I was referring to above. If I see rough stuff I'm up out of the seat, that's just common sense, it lowers the center of gravity of the 'bike' to the pedals and allows it to make the most of whatever suspension I have. Not that I envisage the bike leaving the road because of a nasty bump or unavoidable pothole but with all my body weight up on the seat the chance of it skittering sideways and me unbalancing it is the issue. Around here I even have trouble on 265kg Suzuki sports bikes, ones with decent suspension. The only bike I feel truly relaxed on over rough patches is my Tenere 700 ADV bike, it has $2500 worth of upgraded forks and shock and is designed for bumpy stuff. Of course on push bikes none it matters at unassisted speeds of 20km/h. These are mostly narrow sealed rural backroads I'm on, ones with 100km/h limits.
 
Yes there are limits for all machines. I have a motorcycle that will do 300km/h but I've rarely had it over 200, and that on a very predictable few bits of straight road with no traffic around. I wouldn't dream of going max speed on it but it seems common on ebikes which are a hell of lot more unstable. What ebike uses wind forces to plant itself firmer on the road for example? Not that that really works under 150k anyway. I can 45 km/h on my bike and over bumps it will dance like a teenager on ecstasy. Very unsettling. You have to spend thousands to get proper suspension on them and my rear shock and forks are just not in that league. I couldn't imagine riding a fast hardtail on the roads around here. Though once I was ignorant enough to consider it.

I'll probably get a hub motor next, just to cut out all the nonsense with gear changing. I only ever use the throttle riding and the roads around here are mostly all flat anyway.
XL frames are more stable. Longer wheelbase, I think Mountain Bike frames have a better rake for speed.
Nothing wrong with a hub motor. Get a rear one, though.
 
I have 2 of the SR Suntour suspension seat posts, they do a really good job of decoupling the bike frame from the human body frame.
I have a "Bontrager" suspension seatpost.
Tbh, I'm not really on the seat that much anyways.
Most times it's only like 20% on the seat. 80% standing on the pedals.
I can recall maybe 2 times where I felt the seatpost suspension, and I ride all the time.
I was goin' along and forgot about a bump that I should know is there for 1.
I reckon they're alright for surprise bumps, but in the grand scheme of things, fork shocks go a lot further.
 
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Hello, everyone. This project started with a frame thrown away by someone in a landfill. Good frame, sturdy, without defects. I decided to make a mini bike based on it with a small highway character.I washed the frame, painted it in white mother-of-pearl, picked up the components and put everything in one pile. That's what happened.
Before
1.jpg

After
С белой сумкой.jpg
There is not enough battery in the photo. It will be between the trunk and the seatpost, with a capacity of 15A/hr.
Equipment:
Frame: Dahon clone
Wheels: 20"
Fork: carbon fiber
Engine: Tongseng TSDZ2b 36/500
Transmission: Shimano inter_5e, 58T/27T
Battery: 15 A/h up to 25 A/h
Weight: 21.6kg
Speed: up to 60 km/h
Range: 80-90 km.
Project cost: $625
 
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... painted it in white mother-of-pearl,
Impressive build!
Just a suggestion... I would strongly discourage painting carbon fiber components - especially CF forks, because it hides potential cracks and fractures, which can lead to sudden and catastrophic failure... without warning.
 
Impressive build!
Just a suggestion... I would strongly discourage painting carbon fiber components - especially CF forks, because it hides potential cracks and fractures, which can lead to sudden and catastrophic failure... without warning.
Ок. Thanks for the advice.
 
Below is the before picture. It had a TSM-A5 direct drive hubmotor from Grin. The motor failed because internally the part that transmits the counter-torque to the motor twisted and cut into the motor cable. I repaired it the best I could (probably should of tried to get some $ from Grin). Anyway, something fried in the controller or motor, and it would only run sensorless with no torque sensing PAS, or regen (nor temp or speed).. After riding around in that state I realized how much I liked the bike, but no regen and no PAS sucked. Controller is specific to that motor, and both are discontinued. So, $1200 in effectiv junk. TSM-A5 opinions & impressions
PXL_20240710_031750783.jpg

Pulled the plug and bought an All-Axle in wheel, a Phaserunner controller, and Super harness and display kit from Johnny Nerdout.
$1600, including tax and shipping. Now a $3000 ebike, though the Giant XTC only cost $50!

Here's the after pic:
PXL_20260214_201304280.jpg

Had to fiddle with the parameters to get the regen working, added a bit of field weakening too. 46mph unloaded, 33mph on the flat and level probably at the controller's specified max. amps. It has enough speed for me, as 30mph is the highest speed in my town.
Regen is by a front brake switch, or throttle. It's a 2-way throttle. Regen is set at 50% of max amps, which is very responsive.

My torque arm frame anchor from the last motor worked perfectly with the new motor.
PXL_20260214_194545155.jpg

The bike is quick and responsive. Probably more a mini motorbike. I'll put in some speed and power restrictions if I can't control my right wrist ;).
 
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My donor was a 2017 Cannondale Slate (rigid) in the women specific colorway. I originally built this out in 2019 with a TSDZ2, flashed OSF, but recently got tired of fiddling with the firmware (my Windows laptop died anyway. RIP) and wanted something less quirky than the Tongsheng. Nothing inherently wrong with the TSDZ2, I just wanted to hop on and ride without thinking about the system or feeling like I have to ignore those quirks I have learned to live with.

I took the Slate back to stock and rode for about a week like this - yes, without bar tape. I love the geometry of this ride.
2017 Cannondale Slate Unmodified.jpg

This week I installed a CYC Photon Gen 2 with the Intuition display, paired with a 52v 14ah battery. Originally I had planned to use the standard SW102T, but the stem mount of the Intuition seemed like a better solution for drop bars since cockpit mounting points can be an issue. I still want to clean up wiring around the motor and would like to source a compact frame wedge for excess cable rather than the top tube bag I currently have.
2017 Cannondale Slate CYC.jpg

After adjusting location and angle of the cockpit controls, I settled on this configuration. I'm able to easily reach primary controls while riding in the tops, and backwards-mounted the throttle so I can engage it with my thumb. This is the first build I've had where I installed a throttle at all - I'm not sure if I'll keep it in this position, but at the moment it's very convenient to hit if wanted. Gotta re-tape that wrap, too.
2017 Cannondale Slate CYC Cockpit.jpg

So far the CYC has a much quicker engagement and is considerably smoother than the Tongsheng, and being able to adjust motor settings using the connected app on my phone is incredibly convenient. I don't have any real miles on the system yet, but it looks to be pretty solid...
 
My donor was a 2017 Cannondale Slate (rigid) in the women specific colorway. I originally built this out in 2019 with a TSDZ2, flashed OSF, but recently got tired of fiddling with the firmware (my Windows laptop died anyway. RIP) and wanted something less quirky than the Tongsheng. Nothing inherently wrong with the TSDZ2, I just wanted to hop on and ride without thinking about the system or feeling like I have to ignore those quirks I have learned to live with.

I took the Slate back to stock and rode for about a week like this - yes, without bar tape. I love the geometry of this ride.
View attachment 387422

This week I installed a CYC Photon Gen 2 with the Intuition display, paired with a 52v 14ah battery. Originally I had planned to use the standard SW102T, but the stem mount of the Intuition seemed like a better solution for drop bars since cockpit mounting points can be an issue. I still want to clean up wiring around the motor and would like to source a compact frame wedge for excess cable rather than the top tube bag I currently have.
View attachment 387423

After adjusting location and angle of the cockpit controls, I settled on this configuration. I'm able to easily reach primary controls while riding in the tops, and backwards-mounted the throttle so I can engage it with my thumb. This is the first build I've had where I installed a throttle at all - I'm not sure if I'll keep it in this position, but at the moment it's very convenient to hit if wanted. Gotta re-tape that wrap, too.
View attachment 387424

So far the CYC has a much quicker engagement and is considerably smoother than the Tongsheng, and being able to adjust motor settings using the connected app on my phone is incredibly convenient. I don't have any real miles on the system yet, but it looks to be pretty solid...
That fork has 1 arm?
 
Before:
escape 2 liv.jpg
(not actual pic, but close)
After:
(rim brake only model) (only takes up to 1.75 tires, if you want to know)
DSCF2341.JPG
DSCF2342.JPG
DSCF2343.JPGDSCF2345.JPGDSCF2346.JPG
DSCF2338.JPG
54 mph max speed is with a "Gustavo" 48 T, I done gimped it to a 42.
Because don't need to be going that fast. It rotates @ 215 rpm, I need to start a thread on that.
 
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I hooked it up to this battery, after adding a 30a bms. I bought several of these packs from battery hookup, back when I was going to electrify my Grom. I bought a Ryvid Outset when the price got low enough. So, I'll count it as free.

View attachment 361464

I used this $50 controller, I believe it's for a motor scooter. I wanted to see if it did regen braking. It does!

View attachment 361465

It's all now on this bike, built from free bike parts. Between the motor wheel build and the controller I have $200 into this thing:

View attachment 361466

Kinda crappy looking, but it actually works great. I'll probably install a conventional ebike controller and battery at some point, but this was built to be the test mule for a supplemental super capacitor bank installation. I have close to 200 38F not so super super capacitors, and didn't want to burn-up my good ebikes.
I used the same battery, and a similar motor on mine, i get about 18 miles range
 

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Like your rack solution for a FS bike.
Kind of a big and heavy, but a well built, high amp, low price 36v pack. I've used them as test batteries in builds to see if I want to invest in a store bought battery. Just add a bms to them.
 
My first build.
Mid on 14 inch Mongoose Fireball frame.
Bafang 750w, 14s5p/25ah/50e battery in self made gf box.
IMG_20210405_191441.jpg
Only motor and brake levers installed.
IMG20210423172956.jpg
IMG20210501133918.jpg
Battery box build.
IMG20210515205055.jpg
Here is my shody spot welding(motorcycle starter relay,wood screws, 12v car battery all connected by 14 awg wire).
IMG_20240120_151013.jpg
Final result 2 years after build.
And as a little treat.
That picture was made at Taiwan /Kaohsiung.
I my opinion... amazing build(look carefully, a lot is going on here)
IMG_20231127_142159.jpg
 
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