Your Creation's Before & After Pics

[flua73]

 

[Artur]

Before - metal

After -






Subscribe to my Vector project

 

[amberwolf]

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12500&p=955965#p955965

After:

Just before:

Just before that:

 

[Mad Dog]

 

[amberwolf]

Just for completeness, one of the revamped CrazyBike2 with the new kennel trailer (loaded with 285lbs of bricks and old SLA; total including trailer 340lbs), on the trailer's first test ride):

 

[ohzee]

looking very good amberwolf.

Your getting pretty far away from the random connected parts that work look to a nicely customized machine :0)

You sure are creative.

 

[amberwolf]

Thanks--have *had* to be creative to do what I want/need with what I have.

I jus thave to be careful to not make it look *too* nice, so it isn't as much of a theft target. :/

The traielr is causing a little issue and so have to modify either it or the bike's hitch point.

 

[BLUESTREAK]

"WOW AMBERWOLF. I bet nobody will come close for a good look. I like.

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

(almost) BEFORE

AFTER

 

[Spottydog]

First build of my Surly troll was in feb last year it had largest tyres I could fit for a fat bike look but using standard parts, spec was Halo SAS rims 36 spoke for strong wheelset with BOA-G 3.45 on back Surly black floyd on front,they give a well cusioned ride soaking up pot holes etc.
Gearing was Shimano 2 x 10 with a 38/26T chainset and 11/32 cassette brakes are Avid BB7 185mm front 160mm rear, I always intended to convert it to an E bike when funds allowed.
Conversion was finished 2 weeks ago spec is now, Banfang BBS 01 with reprogramed 18amp controller has full throttle in all modes battery is 36v 15Ah using Samsung 29E cells, a Speedict mercury monitors battery and motor performance.
Gears are now Nuvinchi N360 CVT and a dished 42T Alecdoitalia chainring for better chainline rear sprocket is 16T, 165mm tandem cranks replace the original black 170mm items, it's very smooth in use and suits the crankdrive set up well.
Brakes are unchanged and well up to the task, a vee speedster 3.50 front tyre which is still big handles much better at speed than the black floyd, full 28" x 3" steel mudguards keep the muck off and a PDW rack and swiss army ammo bags make nice panniers and help give it the retro look I wanted. The bike rides and peforms really well it's my first e bike build, all knowledge gained to do it came from reading endless spheres so thankyou to all the people who contribute and share their knowledge on the website.

Update 20/12/14 now running on lipo batts am using Zippy 8000 a 6s and 4s in series, is working well they pretty compact and bout half the weight of the bottle batt pack, was hoping for a more stealth look altho on my first ride out stopped to take pics a lady walking her dog commented nice bike is it electric!.
Clearly not as stealth as I had hoped I think the nuvinchi 360 looks like a hub motor before u even notice the fun 8 crank drive, found a cheap roswheel phone bag with side pouches on ebay.The batts are a snug fit one each side advantage of having them on top tube is you can unzip the pouch for a quick look at the low voltage alarm cell checkers plugged into the balance leads.The phone section of the second case had no storage so it was cut off, My original phone bag now sits ontop of the pouches with 4 small slots cut out to pass mounting straps thru.
I made up a decent size mudflap from a plastic outer cover of an office folder and rivitted it onto front guard motor is now nicely protected from mud and water splashes, the fat tyre can throw up alot of spray.

 

[mfinca]

What handlebars are those?
I could finally get everything on want on my bars.

 

[mfinca]

What handlebars are those?
I could finally get everything on want on my bars.

 

[Spottydog]

Hi they are Jeff Jones loop bars he does a couple of variations of them they use a 31.8mm stem are well made but quite expensive http://www.jonesbikes.com
An alternative I use are Ergotec city trekking space bars (part no:19499000) at http://www.humpert.com ,similar style but with a smaller loop area and use a 25.4mm stem they are about 1/5th the price of the jones bars and a good budget alternative pics below.
Although I didn't try it the lcd display would prob have fit on the lower bar section as the ergotec bars tubeing is same thickness all over leaving upper bar free for lights etc.
the jones bars flare out to 31.8mm at the clamping area so my lcd had to go on the upper loop area which is a fair bit larger.

 

[UBMag]

Before: Bone stock 2014 Diamant Mammut F4

(not my picture)

After: 3000 watt 2WD

 

[nicobie]

What a brute!

 

[mfinca]

A couple of questions. What top speed are you seeing? Are the fat tires flexibility providing enough cushion to get to that speed on rough roads.
My hard tail does about 40mph, but with the roads I like to ride on, comfort is lacking over 20mph. Last time out I found by standing on the peddles I was comfortable past 30mph on a hour ride. I could barely walk the next day, but the ride was comfortable.
So I'm exploring different solutions Fat bike or dual suspension.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Before:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=57751#p899059

After:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=57751&start=50#p965019

More changes to come...ATS Speed drive + internally mounted 18650 battery planned.

Cheers

 

[The fingers]

Looks super comfortable. 8)

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Looks super comfortable. 8)

It's not...yet.
The small wheels + no suspension means you feel bumps a fair bit. I need to find the right balance of tire pressure for comfort/controllability.
The battery also needs to be re-mounted. In it's current position it sticks into my back. My first ride (60km+) left me with bruising across my lower back.
Alas, once I've fixed both these issues, I think it will be very comfortable.

Cheers

 

[UBMag]

A couple of questions. What top speed are you seeing? Are the fat tires flexibility providing enough cushion to get to that speed on rough roads.
My hard tail does about 40mph, but with the roads I like to ride on, comfort is lacking over 20mph. Last time out I found by standing on the peddles I was comfortable past 30mph on a hour ride. I could barely walk the next day, but the ride was comfortable.
So I'm exploring different solutions Fat bike or dual suspension.

Top speed is around 41 kph, with these tyres and 12T wound motors. The tires does take the edge of the bumps at this speed and it is definently more comfortable than a hardtail, but it gets a bit bouncy on tarmac when tyre preassure is set for range/efficiancy. I think a good dual suspension will outperform any hardtail fatbike in the comfort department though.

 

[Drokz]

Hs3540
Crystalyte 48-72Volt 45A digital sensorless controller
Ca 2.3
15S6P konionsV1... will replace with new 18S5P panasonic 18650Pf cells

Before

After

 

[Blackssr]

View attachment 1

Awesome. WOW!

 

[UBMag]

Sorry for bombing this thread. (to much time on my hand lately I guess)....

Before: GT Zone BMX

After:

 

[edventure]

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12500&p=955965#p955965

After:

Just before:

Just before that:

I love seeing setups like this, but I gotta say this looks even more back heavy than my bike. I can't imagine how it handles. Do you have a torch or welder to make all the custom attachments and supports? Any idea what your cost has been to put it together? I still think it would look better all flat black, and thieves still probably have no clue what to make of it.

Good job though, and that steering is definitely one of a kind.

Ed

 

[amberwolf]

I love seeing setups like this, but I gotta say this looks even more back heavy than my bike. I can't imagine how it handles.

Oh, it is most definitely back heavy, and is a wheel-breaker because of it, especially with a big load on there. I've got ideas to add rear suspension which will also lengthen the bike a tad, and move some of that weight forward by doing so, as well as relieve some of the torture the rear wheel and frame goes thru on our roads here.

It actually handles pretty well, even with a heavy load, though the more of it I can keep in the bottom of the cargo pods, the better off it is. IF I have to strap stuff over the top of them, especially if it's the heavier part of it, it gets kinda piggish.

Without teh pods on it it races pretty decently, and corners sharply, though my skills are really untested with it other than a couple of times (Undead Race 2010 and Death Race 2011, there's pics and stuff around ES if you poke around). And it's a lot better bike than it was then, in a lot of ways, though there are still a few basic flaws I'd have to essentially build a new bike to fix. (this one could be redone to do it, but I'd probably be better off starting over, so as to leave this one as a spare for backup).

If I were to fix some of these issues, I'd make the front tirangle shorter, and it'd be a triangulated box-space frame instead of a simple triangle to stiffen the front end torsionally. There only needs to be enough space between feet and front tire so I don't get toestrike, and right now there's a lot more than that. I'd move the toptube upward, and the steering tie rod parallel to and just below the top of that, so I could put a box around it to let me carry more cargo (smaller stuff) up front, including a rack on the top.

I'd move the downtube's intersect with the BB down, and leave the BB where it is, so it'd actually be closer to the middle of that vertical tube the steering is mounted to, instead of at it's bottom end, with that bottom end being moved down some inches to expand the central triangle/spaceframe area for batteries.

There's lots of other "little" changes that would amouint to some large ones, and at least some require disasembly of most of teh bike to do them. I already have part of a new frame I'd started before the fire, but haven't gone back to because everytime I look it I see better ways to do stuff with it, too, and each one adds up and needs entire frame rebuilt to do all fo them....I keep hoping I'll "finish" designing it so I can put it on paper and figure out all the needed materials, tehn cut and weld adn build and RIDE it.

Do you have a torch or welder to make all the custom attachments and supports?

Yes, I use a crappy harborfreight welder, and assorted power tools, some hand tools, and a lot of luck and also using parts I've salvaged from various things taht are already as close as I can get to what I want it to do, in order to minimize the work I have to do to get stuff to do what I want.

Any idea what your cost has been to put it together?

Most of the costs have actually been for the tools like welders (first one died after a while, still have it for parts. Bought a slightly better one using a donation for tools, but needed to do some emergency repairs end of last year and the only place I could do them at had no 220V I could use, so I had to buy another of the crappy 110V liek I'd had before to do that fixing...and I couldn't just return it when done, and eat any restocking fees/etc., cuz I assumed I would need it again before I could get back into my house and dig out and set up my better one), and the supplies to go with them (ltos of cutting and grinding discs, several rolls of welding wire, etc).

Only some of each of those things were used specifically for this bike, but they were bought so I could work on it.

I also bought a new Grin Tech controller after the house fire, though it was also paid for by donations, as were a few other things like new tires and tubes and such. All of the steering tie-rod bits were purchased new, after the old one began to be too-obviously unsafe and I didn't have scrapped stuff I could rebuild it from available. Many little bits were bought from Goodwill and the like. Many mechanical parts were from Freecycle and similar sources, or found in discard piles, yardsales, etc.

Most of the major electric and electronic parts of the bike were either donations directly, either as new parts or as stuff people simply weren't using anymore and thought I could use for something, or bought with donated funds. I don't even know the cost/value of some of the things (never looked them up); just that they do the job I needed them to.

I'd guess that if you were to build this whole bike from scratch using new parts, not counting all the parts/costs of previous revisions of it, it'd probably be a few thousand dollars for all the bits or equivalents thereof.

I doubt that I have spent more than a few hundred dollars on it directly as money, though. At one time I had some notepads and receipts I'd planned to tally up and put in the CB2 thread, but that stuff was lost with most of my other notepads and napkinsketches and artwork and whatnot in teh fire, either burned or water damaged beyond recovery. All I have now is stuff from around June of last year to now, though it's not all in one place or organized in any way, and maybe some electronic versions of data in old online bank statements for certain things, but I haven't been able to make myself re-interested in the tallying project. :/

I still think it would look better all flat black, and thieves still probably have no clue what to make of it.

Black might look better, but it'd also be a lot harder to see, and my intent is to make it as visible as I can, day or night. LIghts help, but not having a bike that blends into the background is good. I'd prefer dayglo orange and yellow and pink, but I've already proven to myself that unless it can be parked out of the sun, indoors, anytime it is not being ridden, the dayglo paint fades so fast in teh sun here that it would have to be repainted every few months, or even more often, depending on how long it had to be parked in the sun each day, and how many days each week. Paint is not cheap, and the dayglo stuff requires white primer under it, a good solid coat, and then a clearcoat over it, or it won't work right and won't last at all.

Another issue is that flat black in Phoenix sun is gonna heat up way faster than what it is now, and I don't want to be riding an oven. It was bad enough with just one black cargo pod (the other was white) and even with over 1" (two I think) of styrofoam insulation inside it, frozen groceries would still melt faster in the black one than in the toher with the same *or less* insulation. It's also pretty bad sitting at traffic lights already, with all teh cars surroudning me putting out even more heat than the sun is beating on my head with. I don't want to imagine how mcuh worse it would be on a black bike.


Thieves: I think it mostly gets left alone because it's so huge and unique: unique stuff is kinda hard to resell, especially when it looks like crap in the first place (it's a major reason I don't try very hard to make stuff look nice, cuz almost every nice bike or bike accessory I ever had was stolen or vandalized, until I figured out that if mine was the ugliest thing on the rack it'd probably get left alone). Huge makes it less desirable to try to just carry it off, and the unusual design makes it less likely anyone would try to ride it off. (teh steering is not 1:1 ratio either, which means if you are not used to it, it's only easy to ride in a straight line. :lol: )



As an aside, why it has to be parked in the sun/weather now:
I can't park inside at work anymore, because I can no longer maneuver it around the aisles and displays of things with the new layout since the store remodel, and every day the non-fixed displays can change, so a path I thought was good one day may not even have room to turn past it the next, and i wouldn't know till I was already there with the bike, unless I park in a parking space first, then hobble inside and find a route, then hobble back outside and unpark it, then walk it inside, hoping customers or fellow employees aren't in teh way because I don't have the strength or the pain-handling ability to hold it up and wait for them to move (if they will), and then continue on.

I tried for a while to do it, because regional management wanted me to stop parking out front under the awning, and park inside instead, but coworkers and management didn't pay any attention to the spacing and placement of things they moved around and setup versus where I would ahve to go with teh bike to get it in and out of the breakroom or the warehouse, and I would usually have to go move a bunch of things out of the way before I could even get it in or out (like at closing time to go home, I'd have to drag a bunch of cat tree furniture out of the way just to get it out of the breakroom, or move a bunch of stocking carts to get it out of the warehouse), and by the time I'd get done with that I couldn't walk it thru the store. I could ride it out after we closed, but only if I was scheduled that late, and I couldn't ever ride it into the store cuz we would have customers there when I arrived.

So I park in a regular parking space instead, and only if it is going to rain will I move it to under the awning, because it is not yet waterproof by any means. Someday it might get there, but there's not that much incentive to do so, as we have very little rain each year.

Good job though, and that steering is definitely one of a kind.

]
Actually, remote steering has been done before like this on other recumbents; I forget where I got my inspiration from but it was something I found online a while before I built the first incarnation of it, but after I'd scrapped the idea of ReCycle (a lowracer USS 'bent) because I couldn't get the chain-wrap steering to work without re-engineering a number of things.

Later once I got here on ES, JustinLE's Cross-Canada bike was pointed out to me, and that bike also uses remote steering, albeit in a slightly differnet manner.

But I thank you for the compliment. It's been a long journey but I doubt I'm anywhere near a "final" bike. There are always new "little" things I think of or find out that I could change or add that would make it "better" for my purposes.