My used Arrow 9 ebike has proven to be pretty reliable since purchased last summer. Longest ride I've done on it was 40 miles. I don't use the single speed PAS since it is too fast (20 mph) for NYC traffic. I find having to hold the 1/2 twist throttle very tiring. I'd love to add a variable speed cruise between 1 to 12 MPH. Any tips on how to do that?
Help needed to add cruise control on my ebike
- Thread starter Zambam
- Start date
If your controller does not require pedal input to operate, you can install a Cycle Analyst v3.x
ebikes.ca
between the throttle and controller, to take over modulation of the throttle. It's cruise function can be set to engage after holding the throttle steady at the speed you want for anything from 1 to 8 seconds, IIRC.
However, a better feature is that you can have variable-speed PAS using just a cadence sensor (probably even the one already installed on the bike--you disconnect it from the controller and connect it to the CA instead). The pedals can actually control the speed of the bike, just like pedalling a non-assisted bike would. (or you can control the power, or current). I use this method to control the speed of the SB Cruiser trike (with a throttle as backup, but I hardly ever use it except to start from a stop in some conditions--PAS does everything else as long as my legs aren't hurting too much).
You don't have to mount hte CA on the handlebars, either--if you won't want it there you can put it anywhere you like, since the data on the screen isn't why you're installing it. If you need to be able to change modes or the level of a variable function, you can do this remotely with a small handlebar-mounted control.
Another option is to find one of the old Crystalyte cruise controls (they might still sell them directly; they are still on their web page here
New Page 2 )
or to create one using something like the Arduino Nano or other tiny MCU (preferably one with an analog in and analog out, so you don't have to add AD/DA converters to it). There have been projects like this here on ES, though I dont' have any links.
There is also a project that uses a small MCU (PIC?) to take the PAS signal and turn it into a throttle signal (a very very basic version of what the CA can do like that).
Cycle Analyst V3 - Grin Products - Product Info
The Cycle Analyst display is our first flagship product released in 2006 and now in its 3rd generation. While the hardware design may be showing its age, it still has capabilities and functionalities that are unmatched by modern ebike systems with their pretty colour screens. This device also...
ebikes.ca
However, a better feature is that you can have variable-speed PAS using just a cadence sensor (probably even the one already installed on the bike--you disconnect it from the controller and connect it to the CA instead). The pedals can actually control the speed of the bike, just like pedalling a non-assisted bike would. (or you can control the power, or current). I use this method to control the speed of the SB Cruiser trike (with a throttle as backup, but I hardly ever use it except to start from a stop in some conditions--PAS does everything else as long as my legs aren't hurting too much).
You don't have to mount hte CA on the handlebars, either--if you won't want it there you can put it anywhere you like, since the data on the screen isn't why you're installing it. If you need to be able to change modes or the level of a variable function, you can do this remotely with a small handlebar-mounted control.
Another option is to find one of the old Crystalyte cruise controls (they might still sell them directly; they are still on their web page here
New Page 2 )
or to create one using something like the Arduino Nano or other tiny MCU (preferably one with an analog in and analog out, so you don't have to add AD/DA converters to it). There have been projects like this here on ES, though I dont' have any links.
There is also a project that uses a small MCU (PIC?) to take the PAS signal and turn it into a throttle signal (a very very basic version of what the CA can do like that).
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The V3 Cycle Analyst sounds like a great piece of gear. But it's more complex and more money than I want to get into for now. Has anyone done a mechanical type modification to their existing half throttle to hold it's setting and release it when the brake pedal is activated?
How about this method by adding a potentionmeter? Add resistor in line with throttle to limit top speed?
How about this method by adding a potentionmeter? Add resistor in line with throttle to limit top speed?
Chalo
100 TW
You can put an O-ring or similar between the twist throttle and the grip to make it stick in position.
Might be easier and safer to cowboy up and hold the throttle where you want it.
BVH
1 kW
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- Mar 26, 2009
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I use the CA III for cruise on my bike but I've never been able to figure out why it is designed to function the way it does. It seems to be trying to maintain the torque value at the time you set it. On flat terrain it is fine. But on a hill, the bike will slow down and power will decrease. On a downhill, speed will increase and power will increase. It won't maintain speed on any grade, up or down. Such a different function than a Crystalite cruise control unit that maintained speed regardless. It added power on uphills and decreased power on downhills. The CA III does, however, provide a nice rest for the hand. I'd love to know the idea behind its function Can someone in the know, explain why it works the way it does?
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The CA cruise control could be perfected with a seemingly simple firmware upgrade, and with a compatible controller (meaning one where variable regen can be controlled via the CA), it could work as well or maybe better than cruise in a car. The upgrade would allow cruise to be activated by a press (or double press/long press, etc.) of the digital aux input, instead of long hold of the throttle, which is virtually impossible to set for slower speeds when running 72V. Plus it would avoid unintentional activation at full throttle.
Cruise could be speed based, so speed would be maintained speed regardless of terrain, up to the power and regen capabilities of the controller. Temp limits, rollback, etc. would be automatically applied as needed. Cruise on my old controller basically worked that way, up to maybe a 10% uphill or 15% downhill grade, so it definitely only allowed a limited amount of extra power to maintain speed., but way better than the CA's throttle/power based cruise. A modified CA cruise could deal with 20% or more uphill (provided you have the power) in order to maintain speed, and have the roll back safeguards.
Just rigged this up using a strip of rubber from an inner tube following your idea but have not road tested it yet. I first tried to wedge the rubber between the grip and the throttle but the grip slips thus the throttle also slips. The rubber in the video is in the thin gap between throttle and the 3 LED Tongsheng battery meter. It seems to hold the throttle position well.
I can see this jury rig can be unsafe if the throttle is engaged when I turn the key on and the bike can take off by itself. I will road test it for the heck of it but I don't think it's a keeper.
If you paid over $100 for it then it's likely potentiometer. If not, it's likely hall.
Or just technique. I just squeeze the interface between the fixed part of the grip and the half twist part. That way it's not my wrist holding the position, but just holding on to the grips.
I used to use a pushbutton and potentiometer to apply 50W or so for coasting or navigating through foot traffic. Maybe I'll re-add that to my left side and dial up the power in case I need to give my throttle hand a break.
I don't understand. Can you please elaborate?
There are two popular pot based throttles available. Magura and Domino. They are around $110-$120. Virtually every other type, except maybe the cable pull units, are cheap hall based throttles.
OK thanks!
Going out shortly to test ride the rubber band cruise control. Will give your "squeeze the interface between the fixed part of the grip and the half twist part" a try also. My throttle is a bit less than a 1/4 twist with a pretty stiff return spring.
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The rubber band cruise control works good during my short test ride! I will use it in longer rides only where wrist getting tired is an issue. I took the throttle apart and saw the hall effect sensor and felt the pull of the magnet with a screwdriver.
Attachments
I am curious why pot based throttles are more expensive and in what ways are they better than hall based? Can both be used with the same controller?
Chalo
100 TW
Potentiometers are inherently more technically demanding and expensive to manufacture than Hall effect sensors. When working correctly, they produce a smooth, linear gradient from zero volts to reference voltage (5V). Hall sensors don't suffer mechanical wear like pots do, but they produce a nonlinear output from about 0.8 volts to 4 volts or a little more.
Any controller than can use a Hall throttle can use a pot throttle. A controller optimized for a pot throttle might misbehave when used with a Hall throttle.
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Can you recommend a plug and play pot throttle that will work with my controller? Do they make versions with cruise control?
The thin inner tube strip wedged in the gap between throttle and battery LED display starts to slip after a short while (video above). Video below shows a much wider inner tube wrapping around the throttle and grip. Will test ride it later and report back.
Because the inner tube rubber is stretchy, the throttle action is such that I have to overshoot the set point before it settles to it. In this video, I wrapped a layer of vinyl over the throttle and grip before putting on the inner tube band. The overshoot is reduced 90%. Next, I will try a piece of mylar for even less friction.
motomech
10 MW
My latest controller doesn't have a CC feature, so this is what I use.
It starts w/ a pr. of Richey or Grab-On foam grips, which I really like the feel of. The half grip on the throttle side will move slightly and I simply push it against the end of the half-twist and it holds it in place. I had to remove the plastic inner sleeve inside the throttle to keep it from snapping back, but even so, just touching to grip releases it. Couldn't be simpler and works great.
It starts w/ a pr. of Richey or Grab-On foam grips, which I really like the feel of. The half grip on the throttle side will move slightly and I simply push it against the end of the half-twist and it holds it in place. I had to remove the plastic inner sleeve inside the throttle to keep it from snapping back, but even so, just touching to grip releases it. Couldn't be simpler and works great.
I've been using the cruise control and really like it. Still trying different ideas to improve it. Latest is using 2 separate "rubber bands", one on the throttle and one on the grip so as to decouple them. I am using a bigger piece of plastic from a milk container under the rubber bands. Bike is on the center stand with rear wheel off ground. You can hear the motor rpm change as I increase throttle setting. Have not test rode it yet. Maybe later today.
I am interested in what you did but do not fully follow. Any pics or better yet, a video?
Chalo
100 TW
If you use a KT controller, you can have 5 full-throttle speeds. The highest one is governed by battery voltage, the lowest one is a percentage of the top speed that you can set, and the three in between are evenly distributed.
I'm not sure what controller I have. you can see a photo of it in this post Looking for info on controller for my Arrow 9 ebike
Would this throttle work https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...MoreOtherSeller|query_from:#nav-specification
? I'll won't need the key switch or button (assume it's a power button) since there's a key switch on the battery.
Would this throttle work https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...MoreOtherSeller|query_from:#nav-specification
? I'll won't need the key switch or button (assume it's a power button) since there's a key switch on the battery.
