TSDZ8 OSF (open source firmware)

I was not satisfied to assist and I ended up to change new 860C display because existing display cables had broken insulation. I installed v20.1C.5-860C version to display and just tested it with default settings. Assist was not very good. Then I set torque calbiration enabled and there was default values for Torque adc offset 150 and Torque adc max 300. Assist was still not good. Then I set really measured values Torque adc offset 173 and Torque adc max 420. No good assist. Then I reduced the values gradually ended to Torque adc offset 15 and Torque adc max 30.

Assist get better all the time when reduced values.
No I have very small values at torque mode and assist is very good and flexible.

I wonder why Torque calibration is functioning like that.

View attachment 370653View attachment 370652

Also today I uploaded OSF to my TSDZ8/860C (thank you very much @prozyc for your help) and for now your settings are also good for me, the settings from engine from Prozyc worked poorly on my engine, noticeable fluctuation under pedaling and overall low smoothness of power delivery.

Only on your crazy settings that it started to work quite nicely, still not as super smooth as on the original hex software but I can go for a ride now :)

When and where did you buy the engine? Maybe we have some older first versions? I bought mine on the first of October at Greenergy on Aliexpress, maybe we have the same "strange" revision TSDZ8 :)
 
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Have you tested the C5 firmware with this OSF? We did a quick test, and it seems to be working. Both the throttle and walk assist work correctly, and the configuration menu also works correctly. We haven't tested the assistance because the motor was not installed in a bike frame.
You can see the TSDZ8 motor running with the SW102 display in the video below:
Thank you for confirming, the video is private though.
 
... Only on your crazy settings that it started to work quite nicely, still not as super smooth as on the original hex software...
This is a very interesting observation that deserves attention.
The values should not be different for cases when calibration is enabled and when calibration is disabled (I thing) .
I had to leave calibration disabled for the assistance to be smooth.
 
Hi all,

Sorry to disturb the thread.....

I have fitted the replacement transistor ( Q7 on underside of controller near the torque sensor cables part number 2SJ168 ) to my controller and it now runs without fault, I have not tested the torque sensing side of things but the manual throttle works and so I must assume all to be good.

If anyone thinks that they might have damaged their controller by flashing with main battery power still applied then this information might help, although it is a lengthy job to remove all of the potting compound, but it's quite easy.

Best regards,

Dorro
 
Hi all,

Sorry to disturb the thread.....

I have fitted the replacement transistor ( Q7 on underside of controller near the torque sensor cables part number 2SJ168 ) to my controller and it now runs without fault, I have not tested the torque sensing side of things but the manual throttle works and so I must assume all to be good.

If anyone thinks that they might have damaged their controller by flashing with main battery power still applied then this information might help, although it is a lengthy job to remove all of the potting compound, but it's quite easy.

Best regards,

Dorro
Thanks for sharing this. This will probably help me to repair my controller.
To test torque sensor you can look at the ADC values provided by the torque sensor. Those values can be displayed on VLCD5 and 860C display. With no load the value should be about 160 and it increases up to about 450 when load is applied.
 
Also today I uploaded OSF to my TSDZ8/860C (thank you very much @prozyc for your help) and for now your settings are also good for me, the settings from engine from Prozyc worked poorly on my engine, noticeable fluctuation under pedaling and overall low smoothness of power delivery.

Only on your crazy settings that it started to work quite nicely, still not as super smooth as on the original hex software but I can go for a ride now :)

When and where did you buy the engine? Maybe we have some older first versions? I bought mine on the first of October at Greenergy on Aliexpress, maybe we have the same "strange" revision TSDZ8 :)
Motor game to me at 14 February 2025. I bought it from PswPower and it was shipped from Germany.
 
Thanks for sharing this. This will probably help me to repair my controller.
To test torque sensor you can look at the ADC values provided by the torque sensor. Those values can be displayed on VLCD5 and 860C display. With no load the value should be about 160 and it increases up to about 450 when load is applied.
Hi, Thank you for that..

I will put my scope on the torque sensor plug later on and compare waveforms against my new controller, if they look similar then I think it's ok... :) ....my motor assembly is on the workbench I don't have it re-fitted to my bike yet....

Here is Q7 at the end of my finger!....de-potting is quite easy, there are a couple of screws holding the heatsink in place, when most of the potting compound has been CAREULLY picked out the pcb can be teased / levered out and access to the reverse of the pcb, is gained, the old transistor can be removed by heating each leg with a soldering iron and lifting bit by bit...unless you have an smd hot air tool....

Cheers,
 

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I want to confirm what @ebikestuff.eu wrote that sw102 works with the version for 860C 15.hex osf.
It didn't work for me before and there was an error like in the picture (e6 fatal) because I had version v20.1C.5-update-1 installed, 2 other versions work fine (I think they are the same): v20.1C.5-beta- and version
v20.1C.5
(I tested and working quite fine without jerking Foc 23, unfortunately on sw102 max is 20A, pwr mode, acc 5 dec 7, tq max 450, calibration disable, if there is jerking you can change to lower dec values maybe it will help as @Bubbels noticed)
 

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Yesterday I rode for a bit longer and tried different settings, unfortunately I could not get the power delivery to be as smooth as on the original software (hex TEST 3.0 etc).

The problem is that the engine doses power too fast in relation to the data received from the pressure sensor, to make the engine given the power very smoothly we need to focus on very smooth pedalling and not let the pressure on the crank decrease, the easiest way to achieve this is riding uphill, while riding on the flat or slightly downhill it starts to work unpleasantly unevenly, it is nothing terrible BUT the super smoothness of the original software is still a long way away, on TEST 3. 0 hex when driving on the flat or slightly downhill nothing like that happens, the power is delivered very smoothly almost like in Cadence mode.

At the moment, the most pleasant driving experience was in Cadence mode, power is delivered smoothly in all conditions, the disadvantage of this mode is that you have to switch between power steering levels more often to maintain a constant average speed😅

Is it possible to set a maximum target cadence for each of the 9 levels of boost separately? As can be done on the Bafangs BBS02b/BBSHD with the SPEEED app, for example:

Cadence mode:
1. max 70RPM and 10% power.
2. max 73RPM and 15% power.
3. max 75RPM and 20% power.
4. max 80RPM and 30% power.
5. etc.

I see that only the power assist can be set, but I don't see a separate cadence for each mode.

PS: Even if I don't manage to find good settings for a smooth ride in pressure sensor mode, Cadence mode makes my ride more pleasant than on the original engine software (I can go 100km+ and not come back very tired), another advantage of OSF is a lot of cool options such as street mode in which with a quick combination of buttons we enable the 25 km/h limit and deactivate the throttle :cool:

Thanks @mstrens for your work and that you are still working on it, and thanks to all the BETA-testers providing in this thread a lot of valuable information and advice for other users :)

PS II: The virtual throttle option is also great, as is the "Street mode" that starts when the set starts, an ideal solution at the moment in Poland😅
 
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Yesterday I rode for a bit longer and tried different settings, unfortunately I could not get the power delivery to be as smooth as on the original software (hex TEST 3.0 etc).

The problem is that the engine doses power too fast in relation to the data received from the pressure sensor, to make the engine given the power very smoothly we need to focus on very smooth pedalling and not let the pressure on the crank decrease, the easiest way to achieve this is riding uphill, while riding on the flat or slightly downhill it starts to work unpleasantly unevenly, it is nothing terrible BUT the super smoothness of the original software is still a long way away, on TEST 3. 0 hex when driving on the flat or slightly downhill nothing like that happens, the power is delivered very smoothly almost like in Cadence mode.

At the moment, the most pleasant driving experience was in Cadence mode, power is delivered smoothly in all conditions, the disadvantage of this mode is that you have to switch between power steering levels more often to maintain a constant average speed😅

Is it possible to set a maximum target cadence for each of the 9 levels of boost separately? As can be done on the Bafangs BBS02b/BBSHD with the SPEEED app, for example:

Cadence mode:
1. max 70RPM and 10% power.
2. max 73RPM and 15% power.
3. max 75RPM and 20% power.
4. max 80RPM and 30% power.
5. etc.

I see that only the power assist can be set, but I don't see a separate cadence for each mode.

PS: Even if I don't manage to find good settings for a smooth ride in pressure sensor mode, Cadence mode makes my ride more pleasant than on the original engine software (I can go 100km+ and not come back very tired), another advantage of OSF is a lot of cool options such as street mode in which with a quick combination of buttons we enable the 25 km/h limit and deactivate the throttle :cool:

Thanks @mstrens for your work and that you are still working on it, and thanks to all the BETA-testers providing in this thread a lot of valuable information and advice for other users :)
I agree with observations. I live in mountainous area and can test on long and steep climbs next to my home. If you pedal hard, the bicycle flies smoothly. As soon as you start being lazy, jerking starts (so sort of motivation to keep pushing pedals hard and constantly... but still better to have a solution for smooth operation :) ). With OSF motor seems much more powerful and lively compared to stock firmware. With stock firmware I had to pedal up hill much harder, but with OSF you almost fly. Motor barely gets warm. Looking forward for OSF improvements.
 
I want to confirm what @ebikestuff.eu wrote that sw102 works with the version for 860C 15.hex osf.
It didn't work for me before and there was an error like in the picture (e6 fatal) because I had version v20.1C.5-update-1 installed, 2 other versions work fine (I think they are the same): v20.1C.5-beta- and version
v20.1C.5
(I tested and working quite fine without jerking Foc 23, unfortunately on sw102 max is 20A, pwr mode, acc 5 dec 7, tq max 450, calibration disable, if there is jerking you can change to lower dec values maybe it will help as @Bubbels noticed)
Can you please remind if sw102 can be flashed like 860c via plug or it needs to be opened? I see sw102 uart 26eur at pswpower. There is as well 860c "can" available for 46eur, but I am not sure if this can be flashed?

The cheapest 860c uart I could find- is 62 eur at AliExpress.

 
Can you please remind if sw102 can be flashed like 860c via plug or it needs to be opened? I see sw102 uart 26eur at pswpower. There is as well 860c "can" available for 46eur, but I am not sure if this can be flashed?

The cheapest 860c uart I could find- is 62 eur at AliExpress.

Sw102 first time needs to be open, after that you can download via bt.
 
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For the TSDZ2 etc you need the UART version. For example look up Enerpower DZ41 Display UART Tongsheng TSDZ2 Compatible 6-Pin (150cm Cable)
 
Can you please remind if sw102 can be flashed like 860c via plug or it needs to be opened?
It has to be opened. Unless you have a version flashed with OSF from the factory. We ordered SW102 displays flashed with OSF directly from the manufacturer. These can be updated via Bluetooth without opening them.
 
Can someone confirm whether ebikestuff.eu ships to the US? I've been riding my bike without OSF for a few weeks now, and ready to start making some changes. I think I want to install a temp sensor while I'm at it. I don't have a good feel for how the motor handles the hills with respect to heat.
 
Can someone confirm whether ebikestuff.eu ships to the US? I've been riding my bike without OSF for a few weeks now, and ready to start making some changes. I think I want to install a temp sensor while I'm at it. I don't have a good feel for how the motor handles the hills with respect to heat.
Is your concern about TSDZ8 or TSDZ2?
I am not aware of heating issue with TSDZ8.
As far I know, TSDZ8 firmware does not support temperature sensor.
 
I drove today with 52 V battery and amps was set to 20. After steep hills I touched motor and it was not hot at all from outside.
 
Don't know if TSDZ8 is very different than TSDZ2, where I installed a standalone type K thermocouple meter with a wire bead probe rather than modifying the controller by soldering in a 3 wire temp sensor. The thermocouple meter I bought was cheap, accurate to 1 deg C. Response is near instantaneous. Easy to install. Just remove the motor cover and epoxy the thermocouple probe to the top of the laminated core.
 
Don't know if TSDZ8 is very different than TSDZ2, where I installed a standalone type K thermocouple meter with a wire bead probe rather than modifying the controller by soldering in a 3 wire temp sensor. The thermocouple meter I bought was cheap, accurate to 1 deg C. Response is near instantaneous. Easy to install. Just remove the motor cover and epoxy the thermocouple probe to the top of the laminated core.
Thanks! This is my plan. After doing a lot of temp testing, my conclusion is that stator temps can shoot up really quickly (10C-15C in a few seconds) under certain conditions, before you could ever detect it by feel. It's like the temp gauge in a car, you never need it until you need it, and by the time the idiot light comes on, the motor is already toast.

Any feedback on ebikestuff.eu ?
 
Thanks! This is my plan. After doing a lot of temp testing, my conclusion is that stator temps can shoot up really quickly (10C-15C in a few seconds) under certain conditions, before you could ever detect it by feel. It's like the temp gauge in a car, you never need it until you need it, and by the time the idiot light comes on, the motor is already toast.

Any feedback on ebikestuff.eu ?
Sorry, I have not dealt with ebikestuff.eu . The one I bought about a year ago was around $4.00 shipped. Checked its accuracy with boiling water, got 100 C (no Imperial unit). The probe is only 1 meter long and won't reach the handlebar. Mine is mounted with elastic on the down tube where the readout is still visible and power button is accessible when riding (display times out after some time). If you need longer probes, 2 meter is available if you look.

IMG_5181.jpeg
 
Sorry, I have not dealt with ebikestuff.eu . The one I bought about a year ago was around $4.00 shipped. Checked its accuracy with boiling water, got 100 C (no Imperial unit). The probe is only 1 meter long and won't reach the handlebar. Mine is mounted with elastic on the down tube where the readout is still visible and power button is accessible when riding (display times out after some time). If you need longer probes, 2 meter is available if you look.

View attachment 370879
I have an extra one of these in my parts box. Looks like it will do the job.

On the ebikestuff.eu, I'm just looking for a place to get a JLINK V9 delivered to the US within a reasonable timeframe.
 
Thermistor will do the job, but has much slower response time.

"In general, Type K thermocouples have a faster response time than thermistors. A thermocouple, especially an exposed junction, can respond in milliseconds, while thermistors typically have response times ranging from 0.2 to 10 seconds. However, the actual response time can vary depending on the specific construction and application"
 
I have an extra one of these in my parts box. Looks like it will do the job.

On the ebikestuff.eu, I'm just looking for a place to get a JLINK V9 delivered to the US within a reasonable timeframe.
You can also buy a jlink chinese clone from amazon/aliexpress...
Then you have to make your own cable to connect it to the controller. This cable can be done with a TSDZ2 speed sensor extension cord.
 
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