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Big Fat Cow Syndrome. ?

Also, motorcycles are definitely built stronger than a bicycle. There are some tradeoffs with that. Motorcycles weight between 300-700lbs. Bicycles weigh 30-70lbs. Less than that for carbon road bikes and more than that for motorcycle like Sur-ons and the like.
My Off Road CR 500 AF's weigh about 225.
 
Purgatory.
Oh yeah, I can definitely see how those will 100% squirm in these road scenarios.

If you want something much more capable on road, try looking for Continental Contact Urban.

Perfect balance between durability and efficiency and has unbelievable amounts of grip.

Something more durable would be the Contact Plus in the rear. If your pockets can take it, the Continental Pure Contact is basically their toughest most durable tire and handles high loads very well. Not as amazing grip like my Urbans in my very short testing, but those are bomb proof.

Schwalbe tires of similar caliber like the Marathon E Plus should also perform much better than the ones you currently have.
 
My Off Road CR 500 AF's weigh about 225.
That doesn't invalidate my point:
CR500 Wheel:
s-l1600.jpg


Ebike wheel:
jNyv3Ck0QaKgvikDeXjm_2019_Aventon_Wheels_Pace_500_Rear_StudioPhotos_001.jpg
 
That doesn't invalidate my point:
CR500 Wheel:
s-l1600.jpg


Ebike wheel:
jNyv3Ck0QaKgvikDeXjm_2019_Aventon_Wheels_Pace_500_Rear_StudioPhotos_001.jpg
That's one of the old style wheels, the newer ones have 6 bolts for the rotor for Big Fat Cow Syndrome. That bike was known to be a red neck play bike and red necks usually suffer from BFCS.

That will be the new term for pig Americans at the Dr.'s office, mam you suffer from BFCS.
 
It's an ActBest Race model., the frame looks heavy duty. It seems like the back end is not made heavy enough. Are the fat tire bikes better if you are heavy? I don't want to spend a ton. I put Specialized tires on it 2.6, better tubes, 203 mm rotors, bar risers, 11/48 gearing and now going 25 to 28 MPH everywhere when I go around corners real fast on the street it feels like the entire back end of the bike is not strong enough. The bike says weight limit 350, the fat tire bikes are rated for 500 some of them but I do not want a pig bike. Maybe this hog should just go on a diet.
Did you say 2.6 inch wide tires . Those need 30 mm wide rims minimum. Your tire is folding over, very dangerous. Run a 2.00 tire with 60 lbs of air.


M
 
Did you say 2.6 inch wide tires . Those need 30 mm wide rims minimum. Your tire is folding over, very dangerous. Run a 2.00 tire with 60 lbs of air.

M

Yep.. if he has the stock rims, they are probably 18-20mm internal..
I would be hesitant to run a 2.6" tire on a 25mm internal rim even, yeah.

Of course he won't mention the PSI he's running.. so it could literally just be that
 
I am having Heffer problems, I never had this problem on MTB but with the Ebike and the excess speed when I go into corners it is tearing the stem out of tubes and the ride is unstable like the tires and tubes do not like dealing with 340 pounds going around corners at 25 MPH. Just wondering if I may need a fat tire bike or better yet cut the food off? I don't want a fat tire bike and would rather figure a way to make this work. thanks
Are experiencing steering wobble? If so I found this helped my escooter with 12” tires

Photo of how I did it. There is an easy adjustment knob to increase or decrease the amount of stabilization on steering
 

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Thanks for the help, yaa the 2.6 tires are to big I guess. They were alot better than stock at below 25 MPH. They grip great and the brakes will not lock. Also it rubs on one side when cornering so it's destroying the frame. The bike is really amazing for the money once I get it straight. Not for jumping or anything but for a road cruiser for me it is so good. Everything about it, the biggest problem is I run the set post out 12 to 14 inches and the bike is short so it can be real wheelie prone and go over in a heartbeat. It did that and got me good. The cruising speed is now up to 28MPH + and the speedo goes 28.00 and does not go higher. There is not much load on my legs either. When I get on a slight hill then my legs are loaded correctly. I want to go taller but am getting scared, at those speeds I realized I should be on the road and I started riding on the road like a motorcycle and sure enough somebody just about killed me. Most people would have gotten clubbed but I am real defensive because I know after going 70 or 80 in the woods for years LOOK OUT!
 
Did you say 2.6 inch wide tires . Those need 30 mm wide rims minimum. Your tire is folding over, very dangerous. Run a 2.00 tire with 60 lbs of air.


M
Thanks, you are right.. That is what it is. Can I buy a rim that is laced up with a motor I can plug in and go? I have MTX 33 Sun's and would like to stay with those.
 
You can buy a motor that is already laced into a wheel, but chances are you will need to play with the order phase and hall sensor wires to make it work and it may not use the same connector as your controller. So you would need to do some soldering unless you buy a complete kit with controller, motor, and display. If you are willing to spend some money for quality parts, Grin lets you choose the rim you want to use and will build the wheel with the motor in it for you.

Building a wheel yourself is doable also:
 
I can get a MTX 39mm with 2000 watt motor 48V, can I make that work and how wide of a tire will work? Is that motor to big? The battery is only 10.4 amp HR.
 
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Buy the rim you want and lace your current motor into that. You would need to use a spoke length calculator (thanks, Grin), and then source the spokes.
Building a motorwheel is a pleasant evening. Trueing the wheel, not so much.
That way you have no issues with the electrics.
 
Buy the rim you want and lace your current motor into that. You would need to use a spoke length calculator (thanks, Grin), and then source the spokes.
Building a motorwheel is a pleasant evening. Trueing the wheel, not so much.
That way you have no issues with the electrics.
I want a back up wheel and want to get one from the ground up.
 
Yaa I did but I want back up parts because I might need them to run from the Illuminati when they decide to do race with the devil for running my mouth about the ruling class. I don't think I will get too far on a Ebike, Joe Biden was caught saying they have F 15's to deal with punks like me and I don't think my Ebike can out run a barrage of cruise missiles.
 
The controller determines how much power is delivered to the motor and the battery has to be able to support the current requirements of the controller and motor. Your current controller and battery can't put out anywhere near 2000 watts and you probably wouldn't want that on a bike that is already prone to doing wheelies at a (claimed) 750 watts.

A 10.4 AH 48V battery is approximately 500 wh. Which along with knowing how many watt hours per mile you use would let you guess the approximate range of the ebike. Say you use 25wh/mile. You would have a range of about 20 miles.

That doesn't tell you the C rating of the battery, which is how fast it can be discharged relative to its total capacity. A 10 AH 2C battery can discharge 20A. Which means a 48V 10AH 2C battery can deliver 960W to the controller.
 
I just saw on Alibaba the MTX 39 with a 2000 watt motor and all the stuff to make it work except battery was 165. I guess it would be like driving a Ford Pinto with a Pro Mod motor, might make for good fun.
 
I can get a MTX 39mm with 2000 watt motor 48V, can I make that work and how wide of a tire will work? Is that motor to big? The battery is only 10.4 amp HR.

Yep, you need a bigger battery to drive a 2-2.5x more powerful motor
..and a bigger controller
..and.. and..
 
It says the kit is only 165 which seems ridiculous cheap. are these Alibaba things legit I wonder. Everything except battery. I could do my specialized 29. building a bike from the ground up is work. thanks.
 
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