1/2 scale copy of Morgan 3-wheeler

[JimDL]

This is built using the back half of a Rad mini folding bike. I took it apart at the hinge, made an adapter plate for a center aluminum beam, and built additional framing to support the aluminum and fiberglass body work. The front end uses ATV ball joints to get proper scrub radius with the kids dirt bike wire wheels. The front brakes are hydraulic disk as used on kids ATVs. The front grill shell is fiberglass, the mold made from a piece of kids “saucer sled”, two pieces of wooden porch step railing, and pieces of aluminum trailer skin sheeting, After forming a mold over those bits, I am able to make grill shells.

The “Morgan beetle-tail” piece is made from a mold I took from the right side of the nose of a B-52 Stratofortress “droptank”. There were plenty of those from the Vietnam war… a friend has one hanging in his barn…he loaned me apiece of it. The Morgan style louver in the lower tail were made with a small bead-roller kit that clamps in my bench vice.

The front wheel track is deliberately too narrow to allow my trike to fit between the posts on local bike path entrances. I have already rolled it over, getting too aggressive on a u-turn. Fortunately my front fenders were strong enough to survive! Those front fenders were made from a mold I pulled from a plug…..that plug uses part of the rear fender of a 1971 Suzuki 90cc trail bike, with addition aluminum grafted on to get that 1930s style.

The chain extension required making rollers carried on dual motorcycle sealed front wheel bearings, a lot of chain and a smaller front sprocket.

This has been a very reliable around town bike and hauls “stuff” in the saddle bags inside the rear body. Downhill I have seen 28 mph and it feels a little spooky but doesn’t get twitchy. Most comfortable cruise is about 15 mph using medium pedal assist to save battery range…but it is not near as efficient as a bicycle. Despite all the aluminum and fiberglass (lay up with all epoxy NOT polyesterene resin) it weighs 120 pounds.

The little old ladies walking the local path all say, “I want one of those!” They like the old fashioned style.

 

[JimDL]

I realized I should add a little more Info…. The second pic show the three steps to building the grill shell. Lower left is the plug…made from bits I mentioned. Lower right is the mold pulled from the plug ( which required a little touch up for use). Upper pic is one of the parts I made from the mold.

Third pic shows the chain guard (and more steering detail). Chain guard is made from 6mm “expanded PVC sheet” which is available from plastic supply stores. Expanded PVC can be shaped by fanning it with a propane torch turned low, and the flame kept about 8-10” away until it is soft enough to bend by hand ( wearing heavy gloves!) and then plunged in a bucket of cold water. It sets almost instantly. I use it also for the cable/wiring retainers on the handlebars….to keep them out of my knees while pedaling.

The first pic shows the support frame for the tail skin….similar to Morgan. This uses 1/4” marine plywood and 1x2 pine, all bonded together with epoxy mixed with West 105 thickener and fiberglass cloth.

 

[Papa]

Looks good. What is your weight distribution at gross (with you aboard)?

 

[JimDL]

Looks good. What is your weight distribution at gross (with you aboard)?

I never checked, but it has never slid the front wheels. It will roll over before either end let’s go (Sure sign of “tail heavy”). That narrow front track gets between the path posts, but looks a little wrong to my eye. Trikes are kinda the worst deal….not great cornering and hit every bump or hole in the road. I store this on the garage ceiling with an overhead electric winch….the balance point is about where you see the handlebar pivot boxes.

The position of the steering link attachments (on the vertical handlebar posts) needs to be low enough to make fine steering adjustments accurate. This is the only way you can try to “offset“ straddle pot holes and such. You still goof and get a real bang now and then. That is why the central aluminum beam must be so strongly mounted at the original Rad folding hinge plate.

This thing is more entertaining to watch….then to ride. Building with suspension adds too much weight and complexity, I think.

 

[Papa]

Trikes are kinda the worst deal

Some trikes yes, but not all.
For most trikes, WD should be close to 33% of the gross on each wheel - In your case, 66% on the front axle and 33% on the rear. Check with bathroom scales. CoM should also be as low as possible (I assume you already know this).

 

[Risky Rob]

Very creative. I remember builds joining the front of an ATV with the rear of a small gas powered scooter.

 

[ZeroEm]

Bunch of Trike haters. Nice project, Looks good.

Trikes should be ridden at 15 mph. Can not roll my trike the front wheels will slide first. Have my battery mounted between the front wheels. Having front wheels in front of your peddles shifts the weight to the back wheel.

 

[PaPaSteve]

Cute
Always applaud great craftsmanship
As Papa already mentioned, the weight balance is visibly off.
To improve handling move anything possible to the front axle.

 

[JimDL]

Well folks…. It is just art….not meant to be a performance trike. It just wouldn’t look like a Morgan with my legs sticking out the nose! I only build these projects for fun and novelty. I did stick it in the local “Blackberry Festival Motorcycle Show” last August. The trophy says “1st place in under 200cc class.”

I was a little disappointed that my other entry didn’t beat this one. That is a “pattern copy” of a 1915 Smith Motor Wheel bicycle. It is built on an Electra Cruiser, with the free swinging motor wheel powered by a 35cc Honda (driving through a heavy weight 5:1 gear, into double chain reduction, into a reverse thread freewheel. It is remarkably fun and comfortable to ride, and street legal in Oregon under the “gas engine under 35cc, geared for up to 15 mph on level ground” rule. That one took two years of “testing…breaking…redesign…again” until I figured out that the engine had to drive into a HEAVY flywheel before the chain set. Motor wheels often bounce (you can’t feel it happening) and the shock loads were breaking things. It has been completely reliable since that mod…and no more blown crankshafts!

Thanks all for your interest and letting me share my odd hobby. The next one will be a “steampunk style” Rad Expand 5 with some cute features and gadgets (gadget is an IMPORTANT word in steampunk stuff).

 

[JimDL]

I need to give you folks a quick laugh…how this even happened. Here you go!

I was building a Minmax hydroplane, with my grandson, (a Popular Mechanics project I first built around 1959) and I needed a cover for the gas tank on the nose. That is how the “belly tank nose mold” got started. So…. One day I’m looking at one of my Rad minis with the molded part in my hand….and…oh boy, this could be fun! My imagination got the best of me and the money started flowing like water!

Here is the first part I made from that mold….the trike was the second. See what happens when you get old and a little unbalanced?!

 

[amberwolf]

I did stick it in the local “Blackberry Festival Motorcycle Show” last August. The trophy says “1st place in under 200cc class.”

I have a trophy for "best-finish, recumbent" from when I crashed (and didn't finish, not even close) and broke my ankle in the spookytooth deathrace on crazybike2. :lol:

I was a little disappointed that my other entry didn’t beat this one. That is a “pattern copy” of a 1915 Smith Motor Wheel bicycle.

LIke one of the ones here?

1915-1919 Smith Motorwheel – The Online Bicycle Museum

1915-1919 Smith Motorwheel

onlinebicyclemuseum.co.uk

That one took two years of “testing…breaking…redesign…again” until I figured out that the engine had to drive into a HEAVY flywheel before the chain set. Motor wheels often bounce (you can’t feel it happening) and the shock loads were breaking things. It has been completely reliable since that mod…and no more blown crankshafts!

People break geared hubmotors sometimes for this reason, and probably sometimes middrives.

Every so often I see "chinagirl" gasbikes around town in the rougher road areas and paths with riders working on them, and wonder if perhaps that is occasionally the problem.

Thanks all for your interest and letting me share my odd hobby. The next one will be a “steampunk style” Rad Expand 5 with some cute features and gadgets (gadget is an IMPORTANT word in steampunk stuff).

Gadgets are always fun.

Ever seen Steampunk Workshop's site?

 

[amberwolf]

See what happens when you get old and a little unbalanced?!

This is what happened to me:

 

[JimDL]

Thank you for the link…more things to get ideas! Steampunk is fun imagination of a “might have been world”.

Regarding the motor wheel….they are really wonderful on bad roads. That was bicycling in 1915, when the roads were dirt, punched full of holes by the horses pulling freight wagons, and the bikes had to ride on the very right edge. The motor wheel could bounce through the holes without hurting the bike or rider. I know this is real, now that I have ridden my motor wheel on rough dirt streets and all. I am trying to figure out an electric motor wheel, but I see some issues.

1. It needs to drive through a flywheel to keep from shock damage…maybe??
2. It may need to disengage drive from the flywheel when you chop power or hit the brakes.
3, the battery and computer cannot take the pounding mounted on the wheel, which means it needs very durable and flexible power wiring to the hub motor.
4. It may actually need a brake caliper on the flywheel to allow safe stops…my motor wheel has an automatic clutch between the engine and the “ gear/flywheel”. So far, stopping has not been a problem.

The Electra cruiser is the way to go because the pedal crank is forward of normal bikes, which gives heel clearance when pedaling. If anyone tries an electric motor wheel bike, do NOT use the spring loaded side pivot shown in 1914-15 patent drawings. I tried that and the motor wheel can shimmy down fast hills….just about pitched me off.

PS. Does anyone want pics of my motor wheel Electra? It’s down off the shelf now.

 

[amberwolf]

PS. Does anyone want pics of my motor wheel Electra? It’s down off the shelf now.

yes please.

 

[amberwolf]

Thank you for the link…more things to get ideas! Steampunk is fun imagination of a “might have been world”.

At one time I wanted to create a video series for Space: 1899

3, the battery and computer cannot take the pounding mounted on the wheel, which means it needs very durable and flexible power wiring to the hub motor.

If you use a ppotted controller, like the phaserunner, it shouldn't be a problem; just ensure all your cables are tied down at the conectros so they don't come undone.

 

[JimDL]

Pics and lessons learned….side view and rear view. The Electra frame has “feet forward” pedals…important for a motor wheel setup. The rear view shows depth of the wheel I had to build, to accommodate the gearbox, dual chain reduction, reverse thread freewheel, and wheel mounting flange.

Side view shows how much rear offset is needed for the motor wheel. This makes drive pressure pushing somewhat sideways into the REAR tire contact patch. If you put the motor wheel in line with bike rear wheel, it will turn the bike hard right at throttle-up.

Rear basket photo shows fuel tank solution….the original tank is inside the wicker tail basket, along with spare fuel, funnel, and tools to open the fake fuel tank on the motor wheel fender. In the toolbox is spare motorweel tube, tools, and inflater. Getting a flat on a motor wheel is miserable. The bike gets unrideable and hard to push. The basket is modified by duct taping the bottom, and then putting a layer of thickened epoxy (pushed) into the area you wish to cut out. Epoxy will NOT stick to the sticky side of tape. After cutting out the area to fit over the fender, waxed paper is laid over the fender, basket propped in place, and epoxy saturated fiberglass cloth is laid inside, over the gap…onto the fender. This method of mounting modified wicker accessories is quick, easy, and very strong.

Right side pics shows how early 1900’s style bicycle “hired advertising” was done…a sign posted in the frame. My grandpa (born in 1896) said he could get paid a nickel every week for carrying advertisement for the town drugstore! On my signboard is a copied, actual ad from Christian Herald magazine in 1916. Mounted on the sign board is a 1915 fire extinguisher ( no longer works) to go along with that 1914 acetylene bike headlamp you see on the left front fork (converted to LED by me).

Component pics show the drive system that finally survives. between the engine and the double chain reduction is the aluminum case carrying heavy cast iron 5:1 reduction gears. The reverse thread freewheel is driven by the last chain run….which is actually in the middle….necessary to reduce the width of the whole package. If I build an electric motor wheel, I will use a hub motor, driving ratio reduction, into a reverse thread freewheel. It could be narrower than this and would be a STRONG hill climbing ride while still nice cruise around 15 mph….and stay legal Class 2. The freewheel would maintain nice coast.

I hope some of these little notes can help folks create interesting styles and ride ideas. Thanks very much this entertaining web site…though most of what you folks do is over this old man’s head!

 

[The Toecutter]

Trikes are kinda the worst deal….not great cornering and hit every bump or hole in the road.

With correct weight distribution, tadpole trikes can brake and corner like a race car. Your weight distribution is almost the worst it could be for this type of vehicle.

 

[JimDL]

Well folks…..it is still…just mechanical art! I built it to entertain me and see people smile. If I needed a performance trike, I would have started one before I was 80 years old! Out in the real world it has been really useful for post office runs, grocery missions, and some exercise. I can park it anywhere and come back to people of any age smiling and a million questions! That has been the most fun part of the project….the fact that it is totally non-serious, and people get it.

The way the world is going, now, we could all use some “less serious” and “share smiles.“.

 

[The Toecutter]

Well folks…..it is still…just mechanical art! I built it to entertain me and see people smile. If I needed a performance trike, I would have started one before I was 80 years old! Out in the real world it has been really useful for post office runs, grocery missions, and some exercise. I can park it anywhere and come back to people of any age smiling and a million questions! That has been the most fun part of the project….the fact that it is totally non-serious, and people get it.

The way the world is going, now, we could all use some “less serious” and “share smiles.“.

I still like your build. The original Morgan 3-wheeler had its engine up front, which was most of its weight. That kept it from tipping during hard cornering.

You could improve this by hiding as large of a battery as you can fit in the nose and the floor underneath where you pedal, and choose a chemistry like LiFePO4 that is less prone to fire in case you wreck.

 

[amberwolf]

Well folks…..it is still…just mechanical art! I built it to entertain me and see people smile. If I needed a performance trike, I would have started one before I was 80 years old! Out in the real world it has been really useful for post office runs, grocery missions, and some exercise. I can park it anywhere and come back to people of any age smiling and a million questions! That has been the most fun part of the project….the fact that it is totally non-serious, and people get it.

The way the world is going, now, we could all use some “less serious” and “share smiles.“.

You should take a peek here for some more of that:

C Cab Hot Rod Power Advice

Ed here. I've been aware of this site for a number of years, and have looked in, now and then. But now I'm getting to the point in my build that I need, the kind of help this site seems to be able to provide. I'm currently building a C Cab Hot Rod, and I'm seeking advice on what power will be...

endless-sphere.com

My own SB Cruiser gets it's share too, though it is built for practical reasons (hauling St Bernards, dog food, and groceries, though generally not at the same time, so more of the latter remains outside the dogs by the time I get home).

 

[SlowCo]

Great build(s)!

 

[Papa]

Well folks…. It is just art….not meant to be a performance trike.

But you apparently ride it on public asphalt and MUPS (multiuse paths)... intermixing your travels with other individuals... at speeds up to 28mph? No one here is suggesting you build a tire smoking circle burner. We're all trying to help keep you safe and out of the morgue. Excessive rear bias weight distribution causes infamous over-steer. As speed increases, steering becomes increasingly light and sensitive. Directional control feels 'loose' and imprecise at speed,,, nearly eliminating enough control for emergency maneuvers.

Since you've already mastered composites, howabout molding a fiberglass replicate of a 1/2 scale Harley V-twin engine, hollowed-out to allow your seat and pedals to be moved further forward... or stuffed with batteries. or maybe consider replacing the rear shell with much lighter carbon fiber?

 

[JimDL]

Thanks for the nice comments. I did actually make a bracket that carried two spare batteries in a V pattern ahead of the grill. It looked too fake…and made it heavier to pedal uphill….I took it off.

I have added a ”bike boost” add-on electric motor on the left side of the rear wheel, which I geared down for maximum 12 mph. I live up a long, steep hill….if I pedal real hard, and full throttle on both motors….I can make it into the driveway about 3 mph. That motor drives to an adapter where the rear disc was. The rear brake is now a conventional caliper….effective for turning on the brake light and making slight drag. Those hydraulic ATV front brakes are very strong, thankfully!

I really think that the e-trikes on the market are much more efficient than mine, but it’s fun entertainment as it is. My actual combined power is still below 750 watts and it definitely won’t exceed 20 mph on level ground….it stays class 2 legal. On to other projects…when winter is come and gone. The shop is too cold and dark now.