Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Help is needed.

I bought a Adappto Max e but it will not auto detected with my cro motot.
In the auto mode it run noisy and wil not give the wanted result. It is just like he is missing something makes noise during rotation but doesn`t give an error. What is wrong, Could it be in the connections? I double checked everthing, and I can see no wrong connection.

What to do?
 
Xtr6 said:
Help is needed.

I bought a Adappto Max e but it will not auto detected with my cro motot.
In the auto mode it run noisy and wil not give the wanted result. It is just like he is missing something makes noise during rotation but doesn`t give an error. What is wrong, Could it be in the connections? I double checked everthing, and I can see no wrong connection.

What to do?

If you can actually get the motor to go through the whole autodetect process from start to finish, then maybe try swapping around your phase wires and try autodetecting again.
If you cannot get autodetect to work at all try reading and following the instructions in the adappto manual (page 22) 2.2.4 Manual motor tuning.
 
Xtr6 said:
Help is needed.

I bought a Adappto Max e but it will not auto detected with my cro motot.
In the auto mode it run noisy and wil not give the wanted result. It is just like he is missing something makes noise during rotation but doesn`t give an error. What is wrong, Could it be in the connections? I double checked everthing, and I can see no wrong connection.

What to do?

Also make sure your hall sensors are being read correctly by looking at the health monitor screen. Look for the letter H and roll your wheel forward by 1cm and check the numbers go 1 2 3 4 5 6 and also look for the 1 and 0 numbers changing and make sure no other letter appears in the sequence ro show your hall sensors are working and reading properly.
 
Guys, anybody had problems with linear adjusting throttle?
I twist my throttle gently for 2-3seconds and nothing changes on screen. Time is going from 0 to 10 seconds in loop. Only in first twist time is near zero and goes slightly up and down and steps go from 0 to 15 but when twisting again again again nothing happens. I think some graph should appear am i right?
 
I have him running, Thanks for the reply.
Going from a Lyen to a Adappto just to got more power.
Hope to do tomorow the first run with the Raptor.
 
atomek1000 said:
Guys, anybody had problems with linear adjusting throttle?
I twist my throttle gently for 2-3seconds and nothing changes on screen. Time is going from 0 to 10 seconds in loop. Only in first twist time is near zero and goes slightly up and down and steps go from 0 to 15 but when twisting again again again nothing happens. I think some graph should appear am i right?

I had this problem too, the graph did not appear. One day mine suddenly began working. I know this sounds silly, but try turning your regen brake setting to 'off' and then try the throttle linearity. It was after me doing this that mine began to work, i am not sure if it was related but its worth a try.
 
Xtr6 said:
I have him running, Thanks for the reply.
Going from a Lyen to a Adappto just to got more power.
Hope to do tomorow the first run with the Raptor.


So what was wrong? Could you please share?
 
Hey, i finally got my bike on the road and first thing i notice motor temp rises very quickly to 120temp(i got limit there) and power is limited.
My motor is mxus 3000W 16x4 V3 laced in 26".
What are perfect settings for this motor? Correction angle, timing?
 
atomek1000 said:
Hey, i finally got my bike on the road and first thing i notice motor temp rises very quickly to 120temp(i got limit there) and power is limited.
My motor is mxus 3000W 16x4 V3 laced in 26".
What are perfect settings for this motor? Correction angle, timing?

I Think that every motor will have differing settings, there is no 'perfect' setting where one shoe fits all. Everyones angles and timings will be different. You will need to try and adjust angle yourself by feeling the vibrations (feels the vibes maan!)

The ind timing is a lttle harder to explain.
 
Yes i know, angle correction is i think set perfectly and motor spins smoothly with no "brumbrum" sound :lol:
But i read Allex posts when he describes 'ride at 30-40kmh and adjust IND timing so motor have lowest temp' and it will be very hard to do on public roads so i thought there would be some shortcuts what can affect this.

But I must say: It was worth it :twisted: 7Kw easily on Kona stinky. Photos in my build thread.
 
got problems again. everthing went well but after I connected the 2 wires for the temp. comming out off the cro motor I got on the starting screen BRAKE and nothing runs annymore?????
What went wrong, I charge the batterij through the Adaptto and there was no problem. On the screen there was CHARGE.
I did everthing tidy up a bit to do a test ride but nothing works. I only seen Brake in the top part of the screen. There should be ECO.

What did i do wrong.
 
Xtr6 said:
got problems again. everthing went well but after I connected the 2 wires for the temp. comming out off the cro motor I got on the starting screen BRAKE and nothing runs annymore?????
What went wrong, I charge the batterij through the Adaptto and there was no problem. On the screen there was CHARGE.
I did everthing tidy up a bit to do a test ride but nothing works. I only seen Brake in the top part of the screen. There should be ECO.

What did i do wrong.

Sounds like it could be to do with the small metal connector between the display and your throttle and regen wires. Just a guess. I did read that the connector does need to be screwed up really tight.

Other than that, why not unconnect the temp wires?
 
I did so but stil have BRAKE in the screen???
The bike was running and I only connected the temp sensor and it went wrong??????
 
Xtr6 said:
I did so but stil have BRAKE in the screen???
The bike was running and I only connected the temp sensor and it went wrong??????

The other thing that i have seen crop up are loose connections inside the display case. I wish i could help more, but i have had very limited experience myself, i can just go on what i have read in this thread.
 
Did a reset and things are back normal. Maybe i connected the temp. sensor wrong.
What I did was one of the two white connected to connector 4 and the other to 5V.
 
brumbrum said:
atomek1000 said:
Hey, i finally got my bike on the road and first thing i notice motor temp rises very quickly to 120temp(i got limit there) and power is limited.
My motor is mxus 3000W 16x4 V3 laced in 26".
What are perfect settings for this motor? Correction angle, timing?

I Think that every motor will have differing settings, there is no 'perfect' setting where one shoe fits all. Everyones angles and timings will be different. You will need to try and adjust angle yourself by feeling the vibrations (feels the vibes maan!)

The ind timing is a lttle harder to explain.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=66411&start=150#p1174899

indeed, the optimum setting will be different for each motor unit, also seems to vary with each phase combo. some phase combos seem to get better results.
a nice simple description of manual tuning-
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=66411&start=150#p1174899

ps. after a flat tyre incident with a 2"nail, i had to use a trailer to get my bike home, and get a new tube.
on fixing the tyre, the bike now has a HALLS message on main screen, but all the diagnostics seem to be ok, and the motor still runs smoothly, but wont go faster then 25kph :|

halls plugs are looking ok, hall voltage on display is ok, hall sequence ok-001,010,etc.,numbers 1-6 scroll ok, but still the message :?:
anyone had this?
today ill sub in another motor to check it
RTL
 
well after swapping out the motor, looks like the motor is ok.

the controller is the issue id say.
after a reset, the HALLS issue has gone away, it has also been exhibiting issues with sticking in charge mode intermittently, that also seem to have been fixed with the reset. but there are some odd things going on, like the throttle linear wont work now, and the throttle limits screen is showing a tiny range of throttle output, which wasnt like that before.



this is one of the older max-es(2013?) on rc7c fw, and im starting to think its time to upgrade the fw.
 
ridethelightning said:
well after swapping out the motor, looks like the motor is ok.

the controller is the issue id say.
after a reset, the HALLS issue has gone away, it has also been exhibiting issues with sticking in charge mode intermittently, that also seem to have been fixed with the reset. but there are some odd things going on, like the throttle linear wont work now, and the throttle limits screen is showing a tiny range of throttle output, which wasnt like that before.



this is one of the older max-es(2013?) on rc7c fw, and im starting to think its time to upgrade the fw.

I've been running the rc7c fw too and I have the charge bug always sticking in charge mode so whenever I want to charge I need to activate the charge before charging and disable it after charging.
Did you tried to keep the display on and switch off the breaker than switch it on again? Note I can't use a pre charge resistor to make it works but it solves me the issue of the !BMS! message if I disconnect and reconnect the battery.
 
edit, i have the even older rc7b :p

i havnt had an issue with BMS warning on this controller, but have had that exact issue with a mini-e. unplugging the main battery leads and reconnect fixed it like you said.

I need to check the throttle output voltage to see if the strange tiny throttle output range is being caused by the controller or throttle.. i suspect the controller cause it was working fine before...also when i did the reset, when controller booted up, the throttle calibration had changed so that the bike was permenently on :!: :!: :!:
luck it was only in eco, but id advise anyone to unplug the throttle/brake connector from display before doing reset...
 
Usually, if you get charge "bug" msg on the main screen this means that high voltage gets to the phase wires due to moisture or sporadic battery contact to chassis. If the phase wires makes contact with the chassis this could also get the charge msg.
And lastly, if there is moist inside the controller there is a possibility to get this msg.
 
Allex, the charge bug started some months ago and the Bomber never seen a rainy day before it. I caught a downpour about a month ago and anything changed after that.
The thing I love the most is riding the bike so I try to limit intervention to a minimum, I can leave with the charge bug so far.

By the way, I noticed something strange about the cell balancing, it seems to me that sometimes a cell remains at a lower voltage than the other at the end of charge, but it is not always the same.
I have tried may times to balance after charge but now I've been trying another method.

As I see a lower cell in the BMS display I open the left frame cover, disconnect from the BMS the 4S plug and charge that lowest cell with my iCharger and take note of which cell I charged. Doing so it seems that one day I charge the cell #2, after a week I charge the #15 (it's just an example I don't have the paper with me now), and so on.
 
ridethelightning said:
edit, i have the even older rc7b :p

i havnt had an issue with BMS warning on this controller, but have had that exact issue with a mini-e. unplugging the main battery leads and reconnect fixed it like you said.

I need to check the throttle output voltage to see if the strange tiny throttle output range is being caused by the controller or throttle.. i suspect the controller cause it was working fine before...also when i did the reset, when controller booted up, the throttle calibration had changed so that the bike was permenently on :!: :!: :!:
luck it was only in eco, but id advise anyone to unplug the throttle/brake connector from display before doing reset...

-resolved-
throttle /brake output from display was ~5v so all ok.
after swapping the 'old' magura throttle for a domino all is peechy in the throttle limits screen, and even the linear calibration works :p
praps the magura was getting tired.

after system reset, the CHARGE sticking is no longer happening and neither is the !HALLS! problem. might not change to latest fw after all then.
 
Controller connectors, where to source them?
Here is what Adaptto use:

BMS/LCD: M14 4pin ip68
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=M14+4pin+ip68

Halls: M14 6pin or 7pin ip68
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=M14+6pin+ip68

Throttle: m8 4 pin
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=m8+4+pin
 
I have got a green and a red liddle and also soldered together wire coming out of M22 (4-Pin) adaptter from my Max-E. What is this good for? I have heared about a guy who has destroyed his controller by touching with these liddle wires the controller..

Is it maybe for the on off key?
 
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