Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[crea2k]

Another thing you can check, is when it shows the BMS error, unscrew the bms and put a multi meter in the positive and negative outputs on the controller for the bms, it should be 12-13 volts, if it is anything else the resistor for the bms might be on its way out and not working correctly until its been given a kick a couple of times.

 

[Ohbse]

What phase current were you running ?.

Honestly it was so long ago I can't recall exactly, nothing crazy and no where near the maximum the firmware will allow. I was cruising along at constant speed, probably 40km/h, perhaps 800w when it blew. I doubt it was outright power related.

I will let you know if it pops again!

 

[crea2k]

Hmm very odd, no phase wire shorts ?

 

[ridethelightning]

subscribed

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Dear Friends,

My name is Oleg and I am the new Sales and Marketing manager in Adaptto E-drives lab.

First of all I would like to thank everyone for interest and patience because we’ve experienced some difficulties in the production process and were unable to answer all the questions.

My top priority for now would be the interaction with your enquiries and technical questions. It would be my pleasure to discuss all the questions in detail via our e-mail: sales@adaptto.ru

Or my own one: olegk@adaptto.ru

Feel free to contact me any time!

 

[Brake]

Hi Oleg. I really appreciate that. Making yourself available for support is huge. I love your guys controller and plan on getting another.

Thanks again.
Cheers. Brake

 

[crea2k]

Anyone that gets !halls! for a split second when switching between regen and throttle, this is due to emi bleeding over into the hall sensor wires from the phase wires. I saw this problem posted on the Russian forum and after rewiring the motor with shielded cable, then grounding one end of the cable on the frame this has now totally solved the problem, as it works just fine now. They said ideally all the cables should be replaced with shielded ones, even the bms etc. I only get !BMS! sometimes when braking / accelerating, so I may try moving the bms further from the controller, if it still persists I will replace the cabling on that too. The display cable isnt a problem as it runs outside the metal battery case, so the case should in theory act like a Faraday cage and block the emi.

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Dear Friends!

Thanks a lot for your responses. We'll do our best to meet your expectations.

Here is one more update:

From now, for all the questions, problems and ideas regarding the development process please send your queries to techsupport@adaptto.ru in order to receive a professinal help and advice.

For the rest of issues including partnership and dealers' proposals please feel free to contact our Sales: sales@adaptto.ru
Or my own adress: olegk@adaptto.ru

All the best!

 

[broke]

Hay guys I updated my firmware to the latest one now I get no temp reading from my motor HT 3525 any idea's It was way off before but now it just wont even work with any of the sensor choices.

 

[Brake]

Mine acted similar in that it reads 32 f until the motor starts to get warm. Then it starts reading. This happened after updating with no other changes.

 

[ridethelightning]

this makes me notwant to update firmware. i suspected there may be a bug or 2 there.
hopefully it can be fixed with the right info...

 

[crea2k]

This seems to be a common problem, mine won't read at all either, iv now swapped the temp sensor for a KTY84/130 and re cabled it too when I fitted the shielded cable so will see how it goes now, one thing you can test is unscrew the back of the halls connector and put a multimeter across sensor + (pin 4) and ground (pin 5) when it's not plugged in (note that the controller side is a mirror of the motor side), it should read around 4.5-5 volts. If you put the multimeter in its ohms check and do it across pin 4/5 on the motor side it should read anywhere from 500-1500 ohms depending on what sensor you have. You can also try with the continuity check on both pins too, with one end of the multimeter to ground, only one terminal of the sensor should beep otherwise it's shorted out somewhere.

 

[crea2k]

Broke, what firmware version were you on before ?.

 

[striker54]

... when I fitted the shielded cable so will see how it goes now, ...

Where and what type of cable did you buy???

 

[madin88]

Anyone that gets !halls! for a split second when switching between regen and throttle, this is due to emi bleeding over into the hall sensor wires from the phase wires. I saw this problem posted on the Russian forum and after rewiring the motor with shielded cable, then grounding one end of the cable on the frame this has now totally solved the problem, as it works just fine now. They said ideally all the cables should be replaced with shielded ones, even the bms etc. I only get !BMS! sometimes when braking / accelerating, so I may try moving the bms further from the controller, if it still persists I will replace the cabling on that too. The display cable isnt a problem as it runs outside the metal battery case, so the case should in theory act like a Faraday cage and block the emi.

The battery and phase wires will create a very big EMI at high current and sure no wonder you will get problems with it (accelerating and braking should be such a worse case scenario).
put the hall and thermistor wires in a separate tube where they come out of the motor and i guess the problem will disappear :wink:

 

[crea2k]

It was similar to this, but mine is double shielded (has foil and gauze) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351081739491
Just search for 7 core shielded wire. Cat 6 shielded cable would do the job, but it's a bit to thick to fit through the axle. It totally removes all interference, so all good, I just have the shield grounded to the frame to remove any current that bleeds into shield from the phase wires.

 

[ridethelightning]

i havnt had any problems with this myself. i wonder why?

 

[crea2k]

Which sensor are you using ?, my 10k in my motor worked, but the adaptto kty83 didnt work when I put that in, iv got a replacement kty84 now, so am going to try that out today, as iv not managed to get the motor hot enough for it to register yet.

 

[ridethelightning]

i have the 10k the cromotor came with too.
i could get it to work, but the readings wernt believable, then i saw the first firmware diddnt support the 10k, so i diddnt bother to enable thermistor after as it would wrongly register as overheating and cut power down hard sometimes

have been wanting to ugrade firmware, but now i see problems you guys are having im not so keen, maybe better to leave it alone

 

[crea2k]

I may connect my 10k back up again as the kty84 is totally useless, I have used a IR thermometer on the motor housing and its 37 degrees c, I will take it for another ride this afternoon and see if I can get it hot and then see if it actually measures something. At the moment I dont really have it set to enough power really to overheat it anyway, but it also means I cant take it to the hills at the moment as that is about the only thing that will heat it up enough.

 

[Offroader]

I remember reading where somewhere that if you charge at high amps something gets really hot.

I was wondering, how many amps can you realistically push with the Max-E using the 70amp coil of course.

Does anyone know where the limitations are when charging with high amps?

Thanks

 

[crea2k]

Ah I see that might be what has died then as my psu is about 50 amps, but from what iv seen I use the same psu as Aundrey so you'd think it would be ok.

Iv been out for a ride today and iv taken to using the touch the motor every so often method, and usually its barely warm, plus im purposely only using fairly low power with it until I can see what's going on. I keep meaning to post it on the Russian forum and see if they know what's wrong with it, as they knew what to change when the halls resistor died on me. If I cant get it fixed im just going to rig up a cheapo lcd temp sensor off ebay up and have that on my bars until the winter comes and its too damn cold to ride, then il just pay Adappto to sort it out if its a fault with it.

 

[crea2k]

By the way, I rigged my 10k sensor back up today and its still not working, so its not the sensor causing the problem, I know that much.

 

[crea2k]

The motor gets warm when charging at high amps, but not really hot, im currently charging mine now and according to my ir thermometer the motor cover is 37 degrees c and the controller is 39 degrees c.

 

[ridethelightning]

it sounds like a possible issue with the temp sense wiring. have you checked the connection to the controller?

if not that, then off to russia with it...