I have rewired it and it still doesn't work, if I remove the wiring and just put plug the sensor straight into the controller wires directly it still doesn't work. Iv posted on the Russian forum, so will see of anyone knows if this is a component that's died or if its an IC I need to send it off to be fixed. Other than that though it works fine at the moment, I'm just keeping the power low.
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
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ridethelightning
1 MW
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- Jul 21, 2013
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charging at 1.5 kw or so seems to be fine but the psu must be up to it. a single unit is best, and close to the battery voltage.Offroader said:
i think up to 2kw+ shoud be do-able with the correct gear
if the psu is lower voltage and several units in paralelle, yeah, it doesnt really like it and things get pretty warm.
gua_rana
100 mW
Offroader said:
This looks like it
http://connectorllt.en.alibaba.com/product/784807415-215643598/M14_male_female_IP68_waterproof_7_pin_connector.html
Brake
100 W
Has anyone reverted to previous firmware to verify that as the issue. I suppose I could try. Just figured that it was a scaling glitch and would wait until the the next update.
ridethelightning
1 MW
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crea2k said:
whats the temps like with your setup?
I was thinking of down grading to v1-RC8f/ because they added support for the kTY81 im using v1-RC9d/ right now.
P.S after riding as soon as I plug in the charger my motor gets real hot then i unplug charger turn off the bike for a hr then charge and it stays cool?
P.S after riding as soon as I plug in the charger my motor gets real hot then i unplug charger turn off the bike for a hr then charge and it stays cool?
Allex
100 MW
ridethelightning said:
It should at least hold 3kW
Here is a video where they charge a 48v battery with 56Amps through Max-e
[youtube]Mtk066cMl2Y[/youtube]
Hurray !, my temp is now working, I am pretty certain now that this is a software glitch of some kind that doesn't seem to fix itself on downgrade, as I know when you downgrade the firmware a lot of the settings are still there. Anyway, I tried a kty84, kty83 (which comes with the controller), nxt 10k (which comes with the cromotor) and after firmware upgrade none of them work, so iv been on eBay and bought every sensor known to man, I know the controller has a kty83 or 81 in it so decided to get a kty81/210 as listed here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271444888840
and as soon as I plugged that in I was getting temp readings of 172 degrees c , (because I had it set to kty84 in the settings), I went into the settings and changed it to kty81 and then put my head gun on it to warm it up and the temp actually rose!.
So now I just need to tear down my motor yet again and replace the sensor, hopefully for the last time. By the way, anyone that wants to test sensor, you don't need to tear down your motor to do it, just unscrew the halls connector, and insert the sensor legs into ground and sensor inputs (note they are a mirror image to the ones in the manual as its the opposite side), then just warm up the sensor with a heat gun (not too hot though, I set mine to 100 degrees), and then watch the screen, if its going to work it will rise as its heated.
and as soon as I plugged that in I was getting temp readings of 172 degrees c , (because I had it set to kty84 in the settings), I went into the settings and changed it to kty81 and then put my head gun on it to warm it up and the temp actually rose!.
So now I just need to tear down my motor yet again and replace the sensor, hopefully for the last time. By the way, anyone that wants to test sensor, you don't need to tear down your motor to do it, just unscrew the halls connector, and insert the sensor legs into ground and sensor inputs (note they are a mirror image to the ones in the manual as its the opposite side), then just warm up the sensor with a heat gun (not too hot though, I set mine to 100 degrees), and then watch the screen, if its going to work it will rise as its heated.
ridethelightning
1 MW
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Great news! 
at least youv got a working thermistor now.
shame the actual problem/glitch couldnt be solved as yet.
so odd that it works with one type, but not with another...would love to find out whats at the bottom of the mystery here.
at least youv got a working thermistor now.
shame the actual problem/glitch couldnt be solved as yet.
so odd that it works with one type, but not with another...would love to find out whats at the bottom of the mystery here.
sacko
10 kW
Thanks for the update and the link to the sensor.
I'll get mine ordered and fitted at the weekend propr to my Mini being delivered.
I'll get mine ordered and fitted at the weekend propr to my Mini being delivered.
GCinDC
100 MW
i believe once sensor is working, both 81 and 83 settings show changes, but one is higher, so you might want to make sure whichever one you choose is representing the right temp.crea2k said:
Brake
100 W
That's great you figured it out and got it working. I have been thinking this one over for a while. Hopefully they will get this cleared up in the next update. Thanks for keeping us informed.
:cheers Brake
:cheers Brake
Try getting yourself a kty81 off eBay and putting it into the controller plug like I did, you can see instantly of its going to work then. Iv just had the motor apart and fitted the sensor and it works perfectly, although the calibration is slightly off, but I can cope with that.
This is the best way to test a temp sensor, just push it into the plug, you will get a !HALLS! error on the screen, but thats just because the halls are unplugged, but the temperature sensor still works just fine.
View attachment 3
After testing it in the socket and it working, I then snugged it up to the windings in the motor and sealed it down with some high temp sealant.
It is very responsive where it is, and goes up and down pretty quickly, as its literally touching the windings.
This is the high temp silicone applied, yes it looks nasty, but id rather put plenty on and it stay put than not put enough on and it come loose and go hitting the magnets spinning round, plus the silicone will insulate it from that side, so it'll get all the heat from the coils.
View attachment 1
I had it set to 90 battery 300 phase and took it for a quick thrash up the road and back to build up some heat, its a serious wheelie machine at that power !.
Its now showing 71 on the gauge :
View attachment 3
After testing it in the socket and it working, I then snugged it up to the windings in the motor and sealed it down with some high temp sealant.
It is very responsive where it is, and goes up and down pretty quickly, as its literally touching the windings.
This is the high temp silicone applied, yes it looks nasty, but id rather put plenty on and it stay put than not put enough on and it come loose and go hitting the magnets spinning round, plus the silicone will insulate it from that side, so it'll get all the heat from the coils.
View attachment 1
I had it set to 90 battery 300 phase and took it for a quick thrash up the road and back to build up some heat, its a serious wheelie machine at that power !.
Its now showing 71 on the gauge :
sacko
10 kW
Just finished removing the DC earth from the PSU's. They are HP ESP135 units, should output 24v @ 56amps for my 20s lipo pack (looking to charge at 1c = 10amps).
Will give the heatshrink another go later, I used a hair dryer on the hottest setting and I think it was too hot.
Will give the heatshrink another go later, I used a hair dryer on the hottest setting and I think it was too hot.
What shrink wrap did you use ?, is that the stuff that you put on model aircraft wings etc ?, iv been trying to find something to wrap my battery packs with. How come you have gone with two psu's and not just one big one ?, iv got the 3000w HP esp 120.
sacko
10 kW
It's 130mm internal diameter version.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/658-a-rol-of-heat-shrink-tube-100-meter.html
I have made a few of the ESP 135s before and they can be picked up pretty cheap, will look into the ESP120 though as it is a higher voltage.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/658-a-rol-of-heat-shrink-tube-100-meter.html
I have made a few of the ESP 135s before and they can be picked up pretty cheap, will look into the ESP120 though as it is a higher voltage.
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