Allex
100 MW
I always use a switch to protect others and the bike from those kind of misstakes. Only turn on display when I am on the bike.
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
Allex, I had a regen hall sensor throttle, but even a regen button inline with that would have been useless since it had no supply voltage. I would love an emergency stop of some kind though.
A remotely operated breaker-- or time to go into the quick menu and shut off cruise-- is all that would have saved me. I'm on a KMX and apparently, my one rear 3" tire has more traction than my two 2.5" front tires....! All slicks.
EDIT: Duh! That's a great idea. Cut power to display, stop all input to controller. I'm definitely doing that soon!
A remotely operated breaker-- or time to go into the quick menu and shut off cruise-- is all that would have saved me. I'm on a KMX and apparently, my one rear 3" tire has more traction than my two 2.5" front tires....! All slicks.
EDIT: Duh! That's a great idea. Cut power to display, stop all input to controller. I'm definitely doing that soon!
I have three failsafes on mine, a key ignition switch, a remote breaker cable pull like Allex's and also my regen is wired up to my throttle microswitch, so when I take my hand off the throttle the regen / ebrake kicks in. We dont have any long hills round here were the variable regen would be much use, and even if I come across one, I have created a throttle dead spot in between min throttle and regen, where I can freewheel if I want, then regen a bit, then freewheel. It works for me as I use mine for off roading a lot, so having the regen come on like that is exactly the same way you use the motor to brake on a motorcross bike in the corners, I used to have a kx125, so its setup a bit like that, so I just let the throttle go to zero just before the corner on a track and the motor brakes, then throttle out of the corners, that way I hardly ever touch the brakes.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
great to hear dockers!
Rodney64
100 kW
Good to see you got it running Dockers. We should meet up sometime for a ride
district9prawn
1 kW
up0 said:
After spending a bit more time with the controller, the motor seems to be running reasonably smoothly and efficiently.
The last problem remaining is that the when the you enable a speed sensor, it doesn't stop the controller from trying to read the speed from the motor hall output. This isn't a problem when you are coasting but unfortunately the speed output is garbage when the motor is turning.
Also, the controller seems to handle regular reed switches poorly for the speed pickup. Doesn't seem to filter out contact bounce at all. Using a hall sensor just like you would for regen gets around this though.
up0 said:
as far as i know Adaptto controllers can do 70.000ERPM, so almost every BLDC Motor should work fine up to this limit (or a bit below i'm not sure).
yesterday ive found this new middrive from Torcman:
http://www.greenroad.at/shop/Torcman-CPD-9025
8 pole, 140kV, up to 50V
this means: 50 x 140 x 8 = 56.000 ERPM
with this information: "It works fine with Kelly HS Version and other controllers like the adaptto mini-e controller"
district9prawn
1 kW
district9prawn said:
Interestingly, cruise control does seem to work ok even with the garbled speed displayed. Doesn't work properly if you turn cruise on while the speed is displaying correctly. But turn cruise on while under motor power (and with the nonsense speedo) and it works.
Anyone else experience this , when you set the pwr and pwr2 to +3 when at and also near WOT the motor kind of surges on and off and on and off, it always does it if I set it to that, wasn't sure if it was supposed to or what, or if a different setting for a cro is more suitable.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
are you sure its not just hitting lvc under high load?
thats waht mine does if the lvc is set too low, or if i ask too much of the battery.
thats waht mine does if the lvc is set too low, or if i ask too much of the battery.
Ridethelightning, that doesn't make sense unless crea2k is running some very unusual battery/phase ratios and/or very high OVS. Peak current is usually off the line. That said, it wouldn't hurt to check LVC...
Have you tried running autotune? Are you in sensorless mode or sine? Sensorless can "knock" a bit at high speed.
Have you tried running autotune? Are you in sensorless mode or sine? Sensorless can "knock" a bit at high speed.
It says in the manual :
PWR timing affects power consumption (and efficiency) of the motor
under load. Set PWR timing (usually one of these values: 0.17 for highspeed motors, 0.3-0.5 for average and 0.7-1.2 for slow motors), to achieve
maximum acceleration when you mash the throttle at cruising speed.
so is the cro counted as a slow motor as in rpm ?.
PWR timing affects power consumption (and efficiency) of the motor
under load. Set PWR timing (usually one of these values: 0.17 for highspeed motors, 0.3-0.5 for average and 0.7-1.2 for slow motors), to achieve
maximum acceleration when you mash the throttle at cruising speed.
so is the cro counted as a slow motor as in rpm ?.
Allex
100 MW
I find those numbers in the manual a bit miss leading.
I have a fast wind motor, 3 turn. It works best at PWR set around 2-2,5.
Cromotors(4t) usually work best around 1,5-2
I have a fast wind motor, 3 turn. It works best at PWR set around 2-2,5.
Cromotors(4t) usually work best around 1,5-2
crea2k said:
i also noticed this strange "on off on off" behaviour after flashing new firmware (it was another bike with cromotor not mine).
IMO its a bug in the firmware. I got it fixed after a reset and new autodetect. It also could help to swap the phase or hall sensor wires.
chucho
1 kW
I read sometime ago adaptto was going to include pass. If i buy now... in the future would it be possible to add this fuction to my Adaptto? Anyone now when this is going to be done?
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