Allex
100 MW
A real GhettoBlaster! 
ridethelightning said:ok so i have increased my pack from 20s to 22s with my mini-e.
im getting max 5.4kw reading.
the top speed is definately faster with the same settings and ovs5
however, the controller is overheating MUCH faster.
before we could climb some steep hills on my 3 seater cargobike and not hit the 70c fet limit.
but now, only a short way up the same hills and the controller rolls back the power bigtime, its already hit 74c+ fet temps.
going easy on the throttle doesnt help.
i was not expecting this with the higher voltage. i thought it would just mean less current for same power, but that shoudnt cause extra heat should it?
somehow theres something different going on with the 22s setup
can anyone surmise why this could be?
Doctorbass said:ridethelightning said:ok so i have increased my pack from 20s to 22s with my mini-e.
im getting max 5.4kw reading.
the top speed is definately faster with the same settings and ovs5
however, the controller is overheating MUCH faster.
before we could climb some steep hills on my 3 seater cargobike and not hit the 70c fet limit.
but now, only a short way up the same hills and the controller rolls back the power bigtime, its already hit 74c+ fet temps.
going easy on the throttle doesnt help.
i was not expecting this with the higher voltage. i thought it would just mean less current for same power, but that shoudnt cause extra heat should it?
somehow theres something different going on with the 22s setup
can anyone surmise why this could be?
I guess your motor is a high speed winding right?
Normally when controller heat they are working with motor like kv of 12 or higher. witch require higher phase amp.
my advice... if you run 22s like me... DONT use a high speed motor! better use a medium speed and use the OVS to compensate and get your desired top speed.
otherwise stay with 20s and keep your fast motor. :wink:
Doc
wingsuit said:everything now works except 2 things. the firmware wont seem to update (it says successful but when i restart it shows the old firmware on load screen) seems to have wrecked my sd card for pc's too so i have to go get a new one.
charger wont initiate either. I measure 48v at the plug, and its all wired right, but when i connect to my charge port it just sticks on a screen that says detecting charger, but shows no input voltage, and just sits there forever.
spent the whole weekend getting the bike all together finally after a year of work. shame it didnt turn out more successful, ive got an email in to the adaptto team.
ridethelightning said:im getting that loud and clear, but the motor im using is x5404, which i thought was not such a high speed wind.
i actually tried lowering the phase amps in the power mode profiles, using NORMAL setting but still same results.
iv even tried climbing hills at half charge, around 78v or so, still heats up fast..
next i think it will be a heatsink, thermal paste and a wet rag.
Allex said:Normally you need to run auto detect when playing with different voltages. And you shouldn't do auto detect on a fully charged pack nor on a depleted one, but pick a voltage in which you normally operate you bike in.
Allex said:The numbers you see on the boot is firmware for the screen not the controller![]()
Boestin said:Allex said:Normally you need to run auto detect when playing with different voltages. And you shouldn't do auto detect on a fully charged pack nor on a depleted one, but pick a voltage in which you normally operate you bike in.
Why is that? The auto detect functionality "only" changes the hall positions right? With a slightly different voltage it does not matter much I think?
Allex said:Do you have you phase wires connected? They need to be during the ride AND charge.
Larseren said:Hi Doc, if you see my earlier post 2 pages back where i wonder:"Does any of you know what the setting in charge menu 2/2 "ChgSensor inv yes" means?
If you set this to yes it will exit charge mode, I cannot get out of charge mode before i toggle this to yes.
Lars
nice girly sticker :lol:wingsuit said:never mind there being 2 red and 2 black. its just cause i had a 4 plug connector so I split the wire to reduce chance of high amps being an issue.
at the plug the 2 reds join and go the the phase wire, and the 2 blacks join and go to the controller bullet jack with the female bullet