Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Hyena]

I am trying to tell people that Manual tuning is the only thing that really works

It's not specific to every single motor is it ?
Ie if you have it running perfectly on a say a mxus 3T then the next guy running the same motor and voltage should be able to use the same settings ? Or is it precisely matched to each motor ?

I've had hall failures in 2 of my setups running sabvotons. On one of them it runs fine after replacing the hall without any reprogramming, on another the hall seems to be slightly out of alignment and if I pin it at full throttle for more than a few second the controller shuts down will gives a hall error. It otherwise runs perfectly fine and smooth. So maybe they ARE super sensitive to exact hall position ?

 

[ohzee]

I've been trying to fine tune the MAX E with the MXUS after autocorrect and found a dramatic difference. AutoDetect puts my angle at -4.18 (or something like that), but when I change it to above +3.45 the wheel speed reaches 58mph and starts skipping (I think due to the speed limit), but it was like night and day! I'm surprised autodetect had a setting that was so off! Anyone experience this with the MXUS motor?

I tried changing the angles...and generally the motor is very quite with the exception of a faint whine (when off the ground, not present when riding on the road). But I can't seem to get the wheel to be completely silent.

Also, in order to manually tweak the Angle, Ind timing, PWR, etc, do you have to choose a number, exit out of the entire setup menus, save and then test out the new setting? Or can you just cycle through different settings without exiting and saving?

Anyone have any specific settings for the MXUS 4T that work very well with the MAX E?

Alex did answer your question , but I wanted to state for others reading so they did not miss it as I was surprised how it worked.

When you have your wheel off the ground and are fine tuning the motor you do not need to save the settings for them to become active.

As you adjust left or right (increasing or decreasing the setting) the changes are active right away.

Still if you turn off your controller prior to saving those changes will not be saved.

This goes against how I think it would work , but it is nice for fine tuning.

If only my freewheel did not click so loudly. I need to remove it to really fine tune , but what a PITA.

 

[Allex]

ohzee, maybe removing the chain is easier than freewheel?
Jay, we know that every motor is build by hand, so every motor is truly unique, while they should have about the same inductance and hall angles, in reality it is always a small difference. And then we have users that runs longer/shorter phase cables or with beefed up cables. So this makes it difficult to use exactly the same settings. What we only can use is in this case, is PWR timing(for same type of motor). Settings like IND and Angle Corr are really unique, and as most of you have noticed are different from one Auto setup to another - this is also why I never trust it.
If you still want to use auto, then at least do it three or four times, right down the values from each run and then dial in the average figure from those completed runs.

 

[9lives]

Well this escalated quickly!

First I thought I had a hall issue, turns out it was shorted on the controller side, right? Anyway, I have another one fried/broken.
Listen:

I connected my second mini-e (also locked firmware, same story) and my bike was alive once again! I went cycling and hooked up afterwards with the Eaton. With the other broken mini-e in my thoughts, I sat next to the charging process which was going smooth as expected. The fans of the Eaton were slowly getting louder and the incoming watts were about 1700W. Time to full charge: 20 minutes. Fet temperature at start: 35 Celsius.
Waiting and waiting... FETs were getting warmer: 45 Celsius, still no issue. After waiting for a while the charging was finished and it was balancing! End fettemperature: 53 Celsius.

There! I was putting the throttle and POOF. Smoke was coming out of the second one.

Now I am sitting here with two fried mini's. Could it have been a bad batch? Or..perhaps the charger? No warnings were given and all of the battery fuses are still ok.

I contacted Adaptto too.

Boestin, are you exiting charge mode before you touch throttle? If not this May go some way to explaining your issue.

 

[Boestin]

Yes chargemode is disabled, before that the charger is off (ofcourse).
I think ( but that is a guess for now ) the mini-e can't handle powerful charges.. I drove a while though without any issues.

 

[ohzee]

ohzee, maybe removing the chain is easier than freewheel?

I tried that. Unfortunately my freewheel still clicks loudly with the chain off.
Maybe I can figure out a way to rubber band it to the wheel so they spin together.

 

[Jackrabbit]

When manually tuning the controller is using unloaded speed a good indicator of correct settings? My Cro V3 went from 45mph to 58mph by changing the angle correction only.

 

[Allex]

Not necessarily, you should read about manual tuning in the manual.

 

[Wheazel]

Are these controllers compatible with an external speedometer?
Cant find anything about it in the manual.

EDIT* Found the answer on page 64.

 

[Wheazel]

There is only one way to correct this - install an external speed sensor.
I've had geared motor with MiniE and the reason it can't measure the speed is freewheel.
Buy some bike sensor and connect it to the break input (to display) then tune it with help of Controller setup -> Ext SPD ratio

yes thats right - at motors with freewheels you getting no signal - if you are not useing the throttle.
But the problem of the external speed sensor is: (if you choose this setting)
if you riding normal - the adaptto takes the speed signal from the motor
If you do not turn the throttle - than he checks if he can get an external speed signal and take this signal.

Thats not realy good, because i think, if you choose external speed sensor - the adaptto should allways takes the external speed signal.
This would make sense.

If you use an hub Motor - this is no problem. But if you use an middrive Motor / with different back ratio - thats bad, because you have no right speed signal from the motor.

It would be good if adaptto could check this, an make an modification to the firmware - for the case that somebody use an external speed sensor / outrunner middrive motor.....

Any news on this topic?

Also what is the core of this problem? Is it limited to nonhub motors that use variable gearing or is it also inconsistent speeddisplay in the transition from internal to external speedsensor?
If one would use a nonhub motor with fixed gearing, paired with an external speedsensor. Would that mean full functionality on current firmware?

 

[Boestin]

Just a quick update: I contacted Adaptto, they are taking my case serious and I am very pleased with the professional service they have. Satisfied customer over here!

 

[GreenRoad]

saw somewhere that wire r phc, when switched to yes, enables another adjustment to be registered. if set to no, then the autodetect will set that setting and ignore the manual setting....just cant think what the setting was... :|

iv had various responses with autodetect. sometimes it gives a good setting straight up, sometimes it takes several cycles to actually get it to be really silky smooth and vicious.
once i spun it up after id upgraded my phases, it sounded like a meatgrinder! it took about 4-5 cycles of autodetect to clean it up, each cycle the rough noise getting slightly smoother.

Hello
Exists there an real documentation for it.
there are some features - with no documentation - and thats bad - because to find the settings is allway an try and error search.

Normal Hub Motors to setup manual is no problem - because you can hear everything and the speed is not high.
Outrunner Motor are verry dificult... because of the higher rpm.

Would be good to update the existing Manual / settings - but for that i would need some infos to some point.

 

[Jackrabbit]

I'm still having problems with my throttle. Sometimes it fails to respond until it's halfway open even though the throttle registers on the throttle limits and linear calibration screens from just off the stop. It's starting to do it more frequently and is really annoying. I consequently only get half the available power The plug from the screen to the controller doesn't seem to line up very well for some reason, I don't know if this could be the problem, it seems strange that you can see the throttle working properly on the screen but no response from the motor.

 

[dockers]

Hey all, started a new account as I can't get into my old one for some reason dockers
Anyone successfully added an on/off switch like adaptto can now provide as stock? Doe's adaptto's switch truly turn it off (as in no draw), or does it just turn off the screen?

 

[Routybouty]

Jackrabbit - Do you have a brake input setup? I accidentally had my brake switch active while trying to get everything setup and cal'd. It would ride but only really slow and inconsistent.

 

[BCTECH]

I am trying to figure out my battery set up, and appreciate if anyone can help.
I understand that the maximum I can run with max-e is 22S so I am down to 4 options.

Option 1:
24S = 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S
has anyone experience any problem running 24S on max-e without unlock? I wouldn't mind to unlock and risk the warranty if you guys think more than half of the chance OK.

Option 2:
22S = 6S + 6S + 6S + 4S
the problem is this will have to go through a complex wiring for the balancing. I prefer using all 4S and just plug and play to the BMS. Avoiding all possible mistake human could make.

Option 3:
22S = 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S + 2S
for the 2S, do I need to mess with the wiring or just directly plug into the 4S balancing port? I guess there should be a autodetect

Option 4:
20S = 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S + 4S
last choice if nothing works above, don't really like low V

Any suggestions guys?

 

[Allex]

First off, why do you want do have so high voltage?

 

[Offroader]

First off, why do you want do have so high voltage?

I think he has a 5.5 turn comotor, won't the extra voltage be helpful with getting the top speed up?

 

[BCTECH]

yes, wanting the high V to keep the motor / controller temp down by having less current.
i am willing to unlock it and go 24S. If less overheat also less chance to damage the max e. the warranty really not that important. just pay for the component that got damaged. i have a feeling max e can take some overload. maybe just charge them up to 4.1v
i could be wrong. if you guys thinking that's not a good idea, i can go for 22S.
That's why i need some comments of my different options

 

[Jackrabbit]

Jackrabbit - Do you have a brake input setup? I accidentally had my brake switch active while trying to get everything setup and cal'd. It would ride but only really slow and inconsistent.

Regen is switched off although I do have some wiring in place to a hall sensor/magnet. The fault is intermittent, when present if I try to do an autodetect it immediately fails as if you had released the throttle during the process. It is rideable with the fault but can suddenly kick back in which could be quite dangerous in the wrong situation. I've emailed Oleg at Adappto and have sent them a video of what's happening. Hopefully it's just a bad connection somewhere that I can resolve with a new connector or something. It would be a huge pain to have to send it back to Russia.

 

[Dirtech]

Anybody know what settings I should use for variable regen using a wuxing thumb throttle? I am sure I have it wired properly but when I push it nothing happens.

 

[Brake]

I just switched from 22s to 21s and I think it still works awesome. Especially if you try the low speed traction control amp glitch. For high voltage and amps I would do like Doc is doing and add/modify the capacitors. After I get an ESR meter that I'm waiting on, I'll give it a go too.

I still wouldn't run over 90v though.

 

[BCTECH]

I just switched from 22s to 21s and I think it still works awesome. Especially if you try the low speed traction control amp glitch. For high voltage and amps I would do like Doc is doing and add/modify the capacitors. After I get an ESR meter that I'm waiting on, I'll give it a go too.

is there a special reason you down size your voltage? and also using an odd number not 22 or 20s? tks

 

[Brake]

From what I've read so far, when running high amps there is a time when there are voltage spikes. By running at 21s and charging to only 4 volts, I can keep a bigger safety margin. 84 volts.
I'm looking for torque. Not necessarily top speed. I think 60 mph is a speed that you rarely use the bike at. All the technical specs of the capacitors are here in this thread. I don't want to incorrectly quote them.

 

[Doctorbass]

I just switched from 22s to 21s and I think it still works awesome. Especially if you try the low speed traction control amp glitch. For high voltage and amps I would do like Doc is doing and add/modify the capacitors. After I get an ESR meter that I'm waiting on, I'll give it a go too.

is there a special reason you down size your voltage? and also using an odd number not 22 or 20s? tks

Lower by few volt your battery voltage and you can add hundreds of phase amp more = more power.

High voltage is not the solution. Please read the section where it is mentionned that for every 100A phase amp there is 10V overshoot spike from the battery. lower the battery by 10V and you can add 100 amp phase... that's it.

24s is not the key with 100V mosfet.

20 or 22s is the best.

Anyway... the Adaptto have the timing adjustment feature that can add up to 30% more speed so why bothering with 24s... :wink:

Doc