Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

new kW record :twisted:

g5f1MT.jpg


but unfortunately the 27kw did not flow into the motor but into my small EMC-400 travel charger.

There was a big spark when i closed the connection between charger and battery. The spark turned the entire chinch connector into plasma, burned my thumb, messes the electronic box and all other things near it.. I was charging through the controller to have accurate soc values. After the sparking the controller went into protect.

edWPgO.jpg


The charger was not switched on (i forgot) so there was inrush current to the cap. Definitely no short circuit anywhere else.
There is a 5A fuse in the chargers output wire that did not blow :shock:
now the question: is the Adaptto current sensing so extremely fast that it can detect 27kw peak (over 370A at 72V) while a little 5A glass-fuse survives?
if we assume the output capacitor in the charger has 50mOhm esr, than such high peak inrush current could be possible.

more here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38284&start=550#p1068624
 
wholy smoked! :lol:

looks like you've been having fun in the shed there.

sometimes i wish i had external pushbuttons for other funtions like for flipping between main display sreens, checkin fet temps, looking at the cell monitor etc.
 
now i have flashed again the latest firmware and did a reset before and after the flash.
nothing changed. i still cannot stop charging when pressing the down button :|
 
Hi guys, I am having some issues with my Cromotor, or some hub that looks like it.

Sort version of the story:

I upgraded the phase wires to awg10 and put new hallwires in there, because I think the wires got damaged when they exit the wheel..
So I opened it up, did some soldering to connect the new wires and closed the wheel again. This time without two sets of hall wires, because I broke one hall sensor and I didn't bother to wire them up.
When I put it all together, there is still a hall malfunction. So there is one hall sensor that is broken for sure, because the wires are ok. In the Adaptto display there are 3 numbers which have to go from 0 to 1 and back again, each of them. The last number sticks on 1. So thats broken, have to replace that.

Meanwhile I have encountered another problem. I hope someone here on this forum can help me out. When I run sensorless on the Adaptto it runs. But only for 30% of the power. If I accelerate harder then the motor start cogging. I don't know if that is the right word for it, maybe stuttering. The speed is not the problem, I can easy go to about 75kph.
So: When I want to go sensorless, is it normal that you cannot go full power? What could it be?

Is this Adaptto behaviour? The Adaptto controller run smoothly on another motor to be clear that the problem lies with the motor.
 
Yes Boestin, when I damaged the hall wires on my last motor and had to run sensorless, power was severely limited. Acceleration was laughable and top speed was like 28 mph before it started "cogging"... so, I would say that behavior is normal, this controller needs to run sensored.
 
I have a new problem with my Max-E and Clyte 40110 I haven't seen anyone with yet though?? This developed after about 650 miles of the controller and motor working together beautifully including being able to Autodetect. It started as an occasional stutter on take off, then developed to an occasional drag on the motor when taking off. Now, It's a problem that forces me to pedal before hitting the throttle........ If I hit the throttle at a standstill, I don't know if I'm going to run:
1) Normally
2) Feel a slight drag till I get moving along or
3) Take-off backwards for about 5-10 feet before launching forward in an unpredictable 12 o'clock wheelie or stone throwing burnout!!
It ain't funny, but it sure is fun.... like pulling the trigger on the Devil's gun..... don't know which way I'm gonna run?! Is Drivin' Sideways coming next?!?! LOL

People are amazed by the new trick in my bag (like WHOW MAN, possessed!), but I don't like it one bit. I want that trick out of my bag. Any idea's before I call the priest and start an exorcism on the controller and motor??? At speed it runs fine, although maybe lost some acceleration and top speed. Could it be one of the halls came loose and is rolling around in it's grave? Autodetect comes up "!HALLS!"
 
SK, I have been researching halls problems and it sounds like behavior a guy on YouTube had before replacing a missing hall sensor. Of course, he found out while bench testing that he had to spin the motor a bit to get it going. Your devil bike situation sounds uh... a bit more severe. ;)
 
Hey Madin88, are you unplugging the chargers supply and having the controller say no voltage detected before exiting ( or trying to exit out) of charge mode?
 
Brake said:
Hey Madin88, are you unplugging the chargers supply and having the controller say no voltage detected before exiting ( or trying to exit out) of charge mode?
Click to expand...

of course if i disconnect the charger than it shows "no charging voltage detected" and i can exit with the down button, but i cannot exit manually during a charge.
now i believe this is normal behaviour and it even would make sense (riding the bike with attached charger is not possible).

but i still have some other bugs:

- !BMS! error still stays a few seconds on main screen when controller is switched on
- autodetect does not work properly (i always need to try it many times until the motor rotates smoothly)
- s.o.c values are strange sometimes. it looks like it mixes Wh with Ah
- when a menu password is set: once i press the down button to enter menu, but than decide to go back to main screen, the bike does not respond to throttle. menu password must be entered.
 
Ok good. I guess I've never tried to exit charge mode with the charger still powered up. Mine also has the !BMS! Error for a few seconds after powering on, but it has always done that. Auto detect didn't work at all for me with this firmware either. The other things you mentioned I probably just didn't notice. There are some other little quirks I have been seeing too. I think they are more related to the implementation of pas.
 
skWarDog said:
Yes Boestin, when I damaged the hall wires on my last motor and had to run sensorless, power was severely limited. Acceleration was laughable and top speed was like 28 mph before it started "cogging"... so, I would say that behavior is normal, this controller needs to run sensored.
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for the confirmation. I thought there was a possible short somewhere on the windings. So the next challenge is to get the faulty sensor out and replace that with another one. I might as well replace them all with Honeywell SS41's.
 
I've tried searching the thread and manual but it's buried somewhere a million pages back...
Does anyone know what temp sensor I need to buy for my new motor?

I used the one originally supplied in another motor already.

Cheers
 
Has there been a resolution to the external speed sensor issue so these controllers can be used for mid-drives yet? I'd like to get one for my GNG based mid drive but it will be a pain to have no accurate speed signal.
 
Mammalian04 said:
SK, I have been researching halls problems and it sounds like behavior a guy on YouTube had before replacing a missing hall sensor. Of course, he found out while bench testing that he had to spin the motor a bit to get it going. Your devil bike situation sounds uh... a bit more severe. ;)
Click to expand...
Tanks Mammalian! Exactly what it was, one of the hall sensors went bad. It DEFINITELY wasn't loose like I originally thought.....lol. I did a mil-spec "Dip and Bake" (x4) on my motor with a ceramic glycote, my first attempts to get through the coating with a Buck knife only destroyed the knife blade! I ended up having to use a diamond cut off wheel to expose the hall sensors, then I was able to replace them with ss41's..... it took most of the day, xD, but the motor is performing even better! I broke 60mph sustained! Motor had more, but I ran out of Balls!

IMHO, the best cooling and performance upgrade you can do to a motor is a professional dip n' bake and passive air-cooling. Any type of aerosol "Conformal Coating" is pure bullshit! It will not impregnate the windings to prevent vibration wear shorts or add any heat dissipation to your motor..... Might as well take your $20 and light it on fire, cus that's whats going to happen when you spray it on your magnet wires! As far as active air-cooling (fans inside motor), water cooling, filling your motor with oil, etc.......... Do you want me to laugh now or later?

For further reading and reference, here's a good dip n' bake varnish you can use in your home atelier:
http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/product_selection.html?p=insulating_resins_guides
 
oh no. i think i just blew up my mini-e :(

i was running autodetect /adjusting the advanced settings, but diddnt remember to unplug the charge coil.

it was running a little rough, no matter what i did, (one guesse why) and then i tried to spin it up and there was a loud clunk sound, a strange smell and no power to display or anything :shock:


i have a spare on hand to swap it out with for the moment, but can anyone suggest what might have happened? might be back to russia with it i think...

[edit]so after swapping controller over for another mini-e, all seemed well untill i got 'HALLS ERROR 1' on autodetect.
there were no warnings on the main screen however(?)

also, in the heath monitor screen, i am getting 111,011,110. ie. the outer digits change but the middle digit stays put on 1. broken halls sensor?
 
skWarDog said:
Oop's sorry! You have a hall problem..... 4th line down, when you roll your bike forward, H0 is bad. H value should never be 0 (zero). When you roll your bike slowly forward, H value should change 1-2-3-4-5-6, 1-2-3-4-5-6 ONLY and every time it changes, the "111" numbers should change 1 at a time from 0 to 1. I don't think they should ever be all 111's or 000's
Click to expand...
so yeah its def a hall blown i rekn. if its the middle digit that doesnt move, does that mean it will be the middle hall sensor thats broken?
how do you test for a busted hall with the meter again? perhaps hook the sensor up to 5v and check the output wire while swiping a magnet past?

edit:

now i have tried a couple of controllers on the motor and it spinns up fine with a max-e i have(also the halls numbers are cycling as they should). so looks like the halls are ok after all.

im beginning to suspect the new mini-e has a dodgy halls plug connection somewhere,but the plug on the controller side looks difficult to get into..
 
so its been a hard day.

after voiding the warranty on my spare new mini-e :p i found the halls error 1 problem caused by a hall wire in the controller that was not connected /soldered properly.

after fixing that, i went for a ride but only got acouple kms when i got PROTECTION on the screen. i tried auto detect and now get "halls error 2".

the r113 resistor seems to be ok at 4.8 ohms, so it might be something else

hall supply reads 4.5v.

i forgot to shrink the hall wires on the motor side plug, so its very likely that the 5v shorted there :| , the controller is now in lockdown protection mode, and i cant even reset it.
 

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