Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ridethelightning]

http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=18109.0

in above link(hope it works) there is the discussion between the engineer who made the adaptto controllers(JEKA) and mostly russian cusomers, but you can post questions there in english and they will translate for you if you ask. better not use google translate they said.

this is where the real interface for customer/adaptto discussion for improvement occurs i think, not the sphere so much.

btw. are you sure you dont actually have 80w heating something up there ?

 

[skWarDog]

Tanks again, rtl! Yes, I am aware of the .ru site and know how to search and inquire our Russian Republic e-brothers and Oleg. Also communicate with Oleg at the office and AndreyM, my fantastic PP proxy and dealer whom I buy my Adaptto products from. Both are great guys and super-knowledgeable about the products they sell. I'm not too worried about the power meter calibration being off. I think it's only affecting the statistics, if I hook up the Mini-E, it zero's out fine, just needs the R113 replaced. I wanted too make sure my equipment didn't blow it on the Max-E before sending for warranty repair and 2wd mod.

The Max-E performs fine! I like it, I like it a lot! I don't believe it's drawing a stray 1 amp (90w) current, I leave it connected and even after a week of sitting the battery does not drain excessively or at all.... Next time I talk to one of these guys, I'll just ask them about the calibration and understanding how to work with the 3 shunts and why I can't zero the display?

SDog.

 

[ridethelightning]

Your in good hands then

i went for a night ride with a cro and max-e last night, between 12 and 3am. was awesome untill i got a flat :x luckilly id charged up on an outdoor socket, mid ride so i had full batt.

when i realised i was losing rear tyre pressure,i headded home fast, but i was some 20km from home. as the moto tyre lost pressure completly, it fishtailed like a bastard and made a horrible noise,bump bump from the valve i think, anything over 20kph was getting dangerous, in the last 10km when it was really flat.
luckily at 3am, i had the road to myself, to zigzag allover :lol:

amazing how it chews threw the juice with no tyre pressure. good to know. next time i get a flat, first thing to do is get a full charge.
and ill probabaly get some slime too, ill do everything i can to avoid that again

 

[Routybouty]

I think I blew a phase today on my Mini-E. I'm making two Vector ebikes. Vector1 (Max-E) has been running for about a month and Vector2 is still being built. I took the working motor from Vector1 and swapped it to Vector2. I'm using an old Mini-E I have from a previous bike, got that all up and running, and copied the motor parameters from the Vector1 Max-E. It seemed to spin up fine unloaded. I spun it up to about 60mph (OVS 0) and heard a clunk. I immediately stopped. I thought I smelled some magic smoke (but was unsure) so I unplugged everything. I plugged it all back in and it seemed fine. The throttle was acting a little weird. Sometimes when I applied throttle it would draw current, but wouldn't spin. It only did that a couple times and seem to work well otherwise. I went to take it for a test ride and it was vibrating like crazy. I think a phase is blown. Has anyone else had a blown phase? Is that the symptom, vibrations?

If you have had a blown phase, I'm wondering if it only takes the FET(s) out? If so I can repair it, I'm in a time crunch.

 

[Doctorbass]

I think I blew a phase today on my Mini-E. I'm making two Vector ebikes. Vector1 (Max-E) has been running for about a month and Vector2 is still being built. I took the working motor from Vector1 and swapped it to Vector2. I'm using an old Mini-E I have from a previous bike, got that all up and running, and copied the motor parameters from the Vector1 Max-E. It seemed to spin up fine unloaded. I spun it up to about 60mph (OVS 0) and heard a clunk. I immediately stopped. I thought I smelled some magic smoke (but was unsure) so I unplugged everything. I plugged it all back in and it seemed fine. The throttle was acting a little weird. Sometimes when I applied throttle it would draw current, but wouldn't spin. It only did that a couple times and seem to work well otherwise. I went to take it for a test ride and it was vibrating like crazy. I think a phase is blown. Has anyone else had a blown phase? Is that the symptom, vibrations?

If you have had a blown phase, I'm wondering if it only takes the FET(s) out? If so I can repair it, I'm in a time crunch.

I had the same symptom as when you retried it... intense vrbrations but motor was running.. but very hard current consuming and motor very hot.. at very low speed... but i was able to get back to home with the controller with one phase blown... These Russian guys are AWSOME :wink: Blown controlelr but that still continu to operate to save your legs!!

Doc

 

[Mammalian04]

Routyboy, this doesn't answer you repair problem but it might help diagnose both your problem (phase) and mine (Halls Error like many other people).

Got it at em3ev.com a while back but I just recalled I had it though I've never used it. Supposedly it will test the halls and coil (I think that means phase), on both the motor and the controller, as well as steer (I think this means throttle).

Anyone see any reason why I shouldn't hook this up to the Adaptto to help determine if I have a blown resistor?






Edit: Well, I am several years late to the party, or more likely have forgotten that I have already been to this party. Lyen seems to have been all over this already. Here is the thread all about it.

Question remains though, any reason I should be hesitant to hook this up to the Adaptto to test its hall connections?

 

[Dirtech]

I think I blew a phase today on my Mini-E. I'm making two Vector ebikes. Vector1 (Max-E) has been running for about a month and Vector2 is still being built. I took the working motor from Vector1 and swapped it to Vector2. I'm using an old Mini-E I have from a previous bike, got that all up and running, and copied the motor parameters from the Vector1 Max-E. It seemed to spin up fine unloaded. I spun it up to about 60mph (OVS 0) and heard a clunk. I immediately stopped. I thought I smelled some magic smoke (but was unsure) so I unplugged everything. I plugged it all back in and it seemed fine. The throttle was acting a little weird. Sometimes when I applied throttle it would draw current, but wouldn't spin. It only did that a couple times and seem to work well otherwise. I went to take it for a test ride and it was vibrating like crazy. I think a phase is blown. Has anyone else had a blown phase? Is that the symptom, vibrations?

If you have had a blown phase, I'm wondering if it only takes the FET(s) out? If so I can repair it, I'm in a time crunch.

I had an almost identical experience with my max-E. Mine is currently in Moscow for repair. Does anybody have any idea what could have caused this? I really want to make sure this does not happen again when I get my controller back. I thought that I had somehow shorted two phase wires together. Just want to get riding again.

 

[Wheazel]

Connected the maxe to the my rv120 today and tried motor calibration via autodetect. Message halls error 1 showed up.

The hall wires are labeled 1-2-3 from the revolt, and I have them connected according to the first page picture.

Did the check according to adaptto manual with the sensors and they seem to work fine. I can also run the motor by turning the throttle, no odd behavior.
Tried some manual motor tuning in accordance to the manual. Will probably take a very gentle testride and see if it works ok.

If anyone have settings for the RV120pro they are happy with feel free to share!

 

[skWarDog]

Your in good hands then

i went for a night ride with a cro and max-e last night, between 12 and 3am. was awesome untill i got a flat :x luckilly id charged up on an outdoor socket, mid ride so i had full batt.

when i realised i was losing rear tyre pressure,i headded home fast, but i was some 20km from home. as the moto tyre lost pressure completly, it fishtailed like a bastard and made a horrible noise,bump bump from the valve i think, anything over 20kph was getting dangerous, in the last 10km when it was really flat.
luckily at 3am, i had the road to myself, to zigzag allover :lol:

amazing how it chews threw the juice with no tyre pressure. good to know. next time i get a flat, first thing to do is get a full charge.
and ill probabaly get some slime too, ill do everything i can to avoid that again

GREAT TRAIL-PORN STORY, RTL! YOUR GIVING ME A WOODY, MAN!!! IF YA STOPPED FOR A HOOKER WHEN YOUR SNAKE WAS LOOSE ALL OVER THE ROAD?........LOL!
Dude, I too regularly do "Midnight Rambles" on my trail network with "Tits SuMo" (Titus SuperMoto e-bike), something I couldn't get away with on my KTM XC-300. (I could and have, but how many times can you Cannonball 2 Park Rangers, 5 Johnny Law Interceptors and a NJSP Jailbreak Heli-Hunter before they book you a room at the 3 Square & Cot Hotel?) Believe me, I'm living on borrowed time, mental-illness, sic skills and pure luck!

Hey Man, I got lots of Enduro, Off-Road, 5-day (impound) racing experience..... I have tons of quick trail-fix get-home tricks and pro tips to fix anything that breaks on a motorcycle, buggy get ya out of a jam and SAFELY home. First, why I woulda got the hooker.....it'll relieve late-night stress & calm you down when your weapons broke-down somewhere in North Dumbfuk. See, if you owned a wife/GF, you'd be home snuggled-up safely in bed, living just to die like a little panzy, deprived of the ride.... you know the ball & chain isn't gonna let you push an 8kw weapon out the garage at midnight?? But that would only be a picture of my bike on the wall..... u wouldn't want to ride the 250watt, SLA powered tampon she let you really have, anyway?......But if you rented the hooker, possible sphere is endless!?! She might drive come pick u up, have a place to crash til morning repairs can be made or meet you there with a pizza, bottle of Bird(Wild Turkey 101), tox a fatty with you and bang your lights out til Mercury goes into Retrograde!!!
Toolbox Tip: Some essential tools ya hafta own, hi-maintenance one's your better off just renting when you need them...

LOL.......seriously though, I have used this quick "get back to camp" temporary flat-fix method several times, all with success! Hope you try it next time instead of potentially ruining a tyre & rim....
Toolbox: 10 - 12 heavy-duty zip-ties, medium length (essential), soft and pliable filler material (spare shirts, rags, rain gear, whatever you can find on the ground- garden hose worked great once for me, field grass, leaves, vines, etc

Technique: Simple. break the bead and stuff the soft stuff inside tire. Bead up tire. Evenly space zip-ties around tire and rim, pull tight on rim side and cut. Done!
It can be done in sections so tire doesn't jam in stays....
Ride slowly and safely!

SDog

 

[Wheazel]

I have a problem with my bms for the maxe. Whenever I choose to activate the bms, it says !BMS! on the main screen.
Under the bms debug monitor, lost packets and cell v error counts ever upwards. What does this mean?
I can see the battery group voltages on the display, so some form of contact is apperently present.

Can not find any text about troubleshooting this in the manual.
The bms connectins are as I got em when buying the maxe, never split up.

EDIT: Solved it by telling the controller that there were only 18cellgroups connected.
Apperently it though cellgroup 19 and 20 were zero voltage when no connection was made there.
DOnt know if I missed this in the setup instruction or if it simply was missing. Either way, no hardware malfunction.

 

[Springerpanhead]

HELP AGAIN. My Qulbix Raptor 140 with an Adaptto MaxE and Cromotor, came assembled with the halls cable a little on the short side. End result is that the female end coming from the controller got yanked right off the end of the cable when the swing arm made a large flex. Emailed Qulbix and they got right back to me with a hand drawn diagram of the wire to pin connections by color showing ( viewed from the front of the connector ) the ORANGE wire on the pin to the left of the indexing slot and the YELLOW wire on the pin to the right of the indexing slot. A few minutes later I got another Email saying to be careful because it is difficult to distinguish the RED from the ORANGE and that the RED wire is supposed to go next to the YELLOW wire. I Emailed them back for confirmation that what they were telling me is that the diagram showing the ORANGE next to the YELLOW was incorrect and that I should follow the instructions of the second Email, didn't get an answer, waited a day and Emailed them again. This time I got an automated Email saying they are on vacation until AUGUST 17 ! WTF! I really don't want to screw up this controller by making a wrong connection, but I would also really like to use this bike before the summer is damn near over. Thought I could match things up with the colors in the cable on the male side going to the Cromotor but that cable has different colored wires. Emailed Oleg at Adaptto, but haven't heard squat from there either. THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ANYONE WHO CAN HELP ME WITH THIS. SPH

 

[Allex]

Damn, you should start riding not fixing

Orange Yellow and Green are halls
Purple is temp sensor
Red is +
Black is -

Hope this helps. Take a look at the manual and it should clear up which one goes where.

 

[ohzee]

Has anyone ever wished when charging thru the maxe it would track Ah back in ? I understand it does somewhat counting back from 100% on a recharge , but it gets to 100% and continues to charge. not sure if that is from the balancing or what.

Hoping maybe I am missing this info somewhere and just need to look in the correct place.

 

[Wheazel]

How do I activate PAS in maxE? Cant find it anywhere.

 

[korpin]

Looks awesome! What kind of tires are those?

i had those rims/tires on my phasor and also putting them on my revolution: 19" pro racing wheel motorcycle rims and shinko 241 tires

 

[Allex]

Has anyone ever wished when charging thru the maxe it would track Ah back in ? I understand it does somewhat counting back from 100% on a recharge , but it gets to 100% and continues to charge. not sure if that is from the balancing or what.

Hoping maybe I am missing this info somewhere and just need to look in the correct place.

On The main screen you see the % depending on Ah you set in the battery menu but in the charge menu you will only see the charge status in Wh. Your shown range in the main screen depends on Ah you set as well. So during charge and recharge those two values will always float away from each other. This is why you see 100% but you still need to charge for another 5-30min or so. The ideal would be a change in the firmware where they set Wh as primary counter instead of Ah, the counter would work a lot more correctly

Wheazel, the PAS is only active in Eco mode. There is no way to turn it on or off in the menus.

 

[Wheazel]

Wheazel, the PAS is only active in Eco mode. There is no way to turn it on or off in the menus.

Thanks Allex, works fine now!

The pas sensor I use have 3 wires red, blue, yellow. I assumed the most logical would be red positive, blue neg and yellow signal.
This was not the case, the blue was actually the signal and the yellow the neg.

Anyone here have a good cheap EU surce for reedswitches?
Gotta setup the brakelevers so I can disable the pas without delay.

 

[Brake]

Regarding pas, the max e has a three wire plug, the Patterson crank with pas installed by grin has a four wire plug. Does anyone have a wiring schematic or diagram for the max e. I've been looking on electrotransport but can't find anything yet. Never used or had pas before. I suppose there is a way to check it with a meter but, thought I'd ask here anyway. Thanks.

 

[RobboCop]

Having a problem with the Regen mode.

Just installed a momentary switch to control regen brakes. Played with the settings, regen is on, set the max current etc, also went into the BMS menu and selected the V max cutout etc. I then went into the brake settings and checked that the value went from 0V to 5ish when the button was toggled (worked fine). Pressing the button also interrupts use of the throttle.

From all of these observations I have determined that the momentary switch is connected correctly in order to control the regen brakes, only problem then is that... well nothing happens!

Controller does not switch into brake mode, brakes certainly don't work and energy is not recovered.The only sign that the switch is still connected is that the pressing of the switch interrupts the use of the throttle.

I ran the battery pack down to 94% and then tried again, still no brakes...

I am sure that I have simply missed something in the configuration, because it should work as far as I am aware.

The only other thing that could preclude me from using the regen function is if Adaptto require you to be using their BMS in order to use it, however, this seems unlikely and I am fairly sure I have read of other people who are using it with their own BMS.

If you require more info on the bike itself, please click on the link in my signature.

Thanks

 

[ridethelightning]

you can run the regen without a bms.

in controller setup, charge settings, what have you set max battery charge voltage to?

any of the settings in bms setup and charge setup can affect the regen enable....

 

[RobboCop]

Yes, thank you!

I missed one of the V max settings, it looks like my brain was working less effectively at 2AM and I had set one of the V max settings to 78V instead of 88V.

All fixed now, and brakes are working.

Having said that, what is the normal amount of regen I can expect from a mini e at say 40km/hr? I got about 1KW regen but the bike wasn't exactly screeching to a halt...

I might re-do the auto detect process now that regen is enabled.

 

[zopamer]

Hey i've got a mini-e/mxus 300 combo and everythings working great except for the mosfet temp reads -141 deg f.

I tried changing the sensor type and doing a full reset but it still reads -141.

Any ideas how to fix this? Firmware update?

Thanks!

 

[Allex]

Zopamer, I am sorry but it looks like you are in for a warranty repair

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Hey i've got a mini-e/mxus 300 combo and everythings working great except for the mosfet temp reads -141 deg f.

I tried changing the sensor type and doing a full reset but it still reads -141.

Any ideas how to fix this? Firmware update?

Thanks!

Hello,

You could try upgrading to RC-9G_4 firmware (if you still haven't) and if this will not help - send the controller back to us (I've already provided postal details for you via e-mail if I'm not mistaken).

Best regards,

 

[Dirtech]

Can we please just take a moment to appreciate the work of the guys over at adaptto? My controller is fixed and is being shipped beck to me tomorrow free of charge. The best controller on the market and customer service is second to none!
Thanks Adaptto!