Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Rodney64]

Thanks everyone, so I haven't soldered the resistor on yet. So there's 2 wires coming from the motor, ones white and ones brown. I'm assuming that the brown wire needs soldied to the resistor and then the White wire goes to the number 5 on the halls. Or are I back too front?

 

[ridethelightning]

white wire should go from one side of thermistor to thermistor pin in the halls plug.

you then need another wire on the other side of the thermistor, that is connected to the black halls ground wire in the motor, or goes to the ground pin in the halls plug

 

[Dirtech]

Does anybody know what size resistor I need to replace R113. My 0402 resistor arrived today, but looks way too small.

 

[andreym]

for replacing R113 0603 resistor with 2-10ohm should be ok.

 

[izeman]

Does anybody know what size resistor I need to replace R113. My 0402 resistor arrived today, but looks way too small.

as long as the wattage is ok and you can solder both sides of the resistor you are fine to use it.

 

[crea2k]

As far as motor temperature sensors go the kty81-121 is super accurate. I was using a kty81-210 before and it always read hotter than it actually was, but this one is bang on the money, it actually tells me the current room temp in here to +\- 1 degree.

 

[sn0wchyld]

You can do like this to shut down your breaker remotley
[youtube]2Vi3byoakFk[/youtube]
If you want to power off the display you can place a switch on the red wire going to display, but then, like GC said, the antitheft wont work.

BTW, you want a simple and reliable solution(Adapttos recommendation) just install a regular apartment breaker, I use C63A, it angages at about 135 DC Amps for me and you can use whatever battery voltage.
And you can say goodbye to all prechargers, no need them anymore!
http://www.abb.com/product/seitp329/49a79353b0194401c12572ab00257544.aspx?tabKey=2&gid=ABB2CDS251001R0634&cid=9AAC100489

Last thing. Latest firmware has a speed limit of 90km/h, so forget about that one if you want to break some speed records. They will probably fix it in the next version.

hey alex i realize this is a bit of a necro post but have you tested that breaker with DC? DC breakers are very different, as a DC ark is harder to extinguish, so im not sure if that will actually disconnect the pack or just turn into a ball of melted plastic from the plasma ark... skip to 55 secs and about 1:30 for the comparison.
[youtube]Zez2r1RPpWY[/youtube]

 

[Allex]

Hah 220dc is almost 3times our voltage, but it works, when I connect the pack while the breaker is active it will shut down

 

[izeman]

edit: didn't want to post

 

[crea2k]

Its fine, I have a breaker on mine too, its rated for up to 600v AC or 80v DC , if you check some breakers they are rated for both, just check your countries most popular electronics websites, most have a filter you can select for Dc compatible breakers.

 

[Offroader]

Can anyone recommend a way to neatly tie in my two throttles to the max-e. One throttle is for regen other is for driving,

Right now I just joined the wires together permanently with solder. But it is a pain to swap out or disconnect the throttles.

I was wondering if maybe someone has a neat way to connect both of them using connectors.

Thanks

 

[Mammalian04]

Can anyone recommend a way to neatly tie in my two throttles to the max-e. One throttle is for regen other is for driving,

Right now I just joined the wires together permanently with solder. But it is a pain to swap out or disconnect the throttles.

I was wondering if maybe someone has a neat way to connect both of them using connectors.

Thanks

I guess you could solder to a plug like the halls use but you probably have the safest with hard solders. I think my throttle problems are because of the crappy connector (my crappy installation of connector).

 

[bigbore]

My throttle is connected with a RC Futaba connector like this one:

It has been working for several months without problems.

 

[sh33p]

Does anyone here know what kind of speed one would typically get with a Mini-E with a 22s 20Ah battery? This is with a MXUS 3000 with a 19" rear wheel.

 

[chucho]

Does anyone here know what kind of speed one would typically get with a Mini-E with a 22s 20Ah battery? This is with a MXUS 3000 with a 19" rear wheel.

Depends on the mxus 3000 you are using :wink:

 

[sh33p]

Does anyone here know what kind of speed one would typically get with a Mini-E with a 22s 20Ah battery? This is with a MXUS 3000 with a 19" rear wheel.

Depends on the mxus 3000 you are using :wink:

4T

 

[Mammalian04]

Does anyone here know what kind of speed one would typically get with a Mini-E with a 22s 20Ah battery? This is with a MXUS 3000 with a 19" rear wheel.

Depends on the mxus 3000 you are using :wink:

4T

See this very thorough post from SpinningMagnets:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16114

You will need to know:
- KV of your motor (9kv for a 4T MXUS 3000w)
- Voltage you are going to run it at (likely 82v for you)
- Circumference of your mounted and inflated tire (Per Forum Member Rix: "The 19x1.6 you are going to get with a 2.75x19 Shinko SR241 will measure 25.16 inches diameter.")



As you can see above, this gives an unloaded speed of about 55MPH. Take 15% off of that (depending upon how pointy your face is and how much you weigh) and you will have your estimated top speed at nominal voltage. Then there are all kinds of variables (if you tuck down to be more aerodynamic, if you go for a speed run when the pack is HOC - hot off the charger and closer to 92 volts, if you are geared to assist in pedaling that fast, if you shaved that morning, if Heetah made the annual sheep sacrifice to the moon god this year, blah blah...)

Additional Edit: Now all that being said, I just realized this is the Adaptto thread so there is the Adaptto FOC function (AKA Adaptto "black magic") that will allow you to go faster than the calculation would normally result, but this mode is less efficient and sucks battery power. How it works, how much battery power, how much faster, and all that is beyond me and is covered elsewhere in this thread and others.

 

[Mammalian04]

Those that have used the Lyen tester on a Cromotor:

Do my motor halls seem to be working correctly?

http://youtu.be/YoRPRgKMG8s


I will test the controller next as soon as I get some leads soldered up.

 

[Doctorbass]

Hi All I had a discussion with Jeka, The engineer of teh Adaptto and he confirmed me a very important info regarding the optimum voltage to operate at when using max phase amp ( 400A).

When using phase amp to 350-400A, the optimum MAXIMUM voltage to keep mosfet alive is 80-82V

But it also depend on a KEY parameter!!: The hall sensor correct position!!! If one or more hall sensor is deeper than other or is angled, the protection for voltage overshoot at high current might not operate accuratly enough!


In other words FOR MAX POWER and MAX PHASE AMP try never operating controller over 80-82V... AND make sure all 3 hall sensor are perfectly positionned on the rotor!!

From Jeka:

1. mosfet (in factory) tested for breakdown at 115v. 2. Declared avalanche (breakdown) current for mosfets: 180A. Requirement that only The mosfet core did not overheat during this local spikes. 80-82V @ 400A i think is optimal. Also, use new revision of power controller module. Old modules have some problems at high spikes. According to tests, new modules have clean gate driver signals up to 5000A in peak. The most important that there was a stable and clean signal from rotor position sensors. If a signal to be distorted, on the high-current modes protection can not work . we observed it, for example on 3000w cromotor halls with a bent axis and a variable gap between a rotor and the stator. Hall sensors on high currents received an incorrect magnetic field.

:wink:

DOc

 

[Offroader]

Doctorbass, I am using 18s right now and never had any trouble.

I want to unlock my controller eventually and turn up those phase amps (maybe higher than 450+). Do you think it is better that I leave it 18s or is 20s OK? I'm using a smaller 17" motorcross wheel on a cromotor.

Basically is 18s even safer than 20s for high phase amps, or does it not matter until you reach 82 volts?

 

[Doctorbass]

Doctorbass, I am using 18s right now and never had any trouble.

I want to unlock my controller eventually and turn up those phase amps (maybe higher than 450+). Do you think it is better that I leave it 18s or is 20s OK? I'm using a smaller 17" motorcross wheel on a cromotor.

Basically is 18s even safer than 20s for high phase amps, or does it not matter until you reach 82 volts?

It not matter until you reach 82 volts.

Also teh new 14kW improoved controller have better voltage overshoot protection for high phase amp.

Doc

 

[sn0wchyld]

Doctorbass, I am using 18s right now and never had any trouble.

I want to unlock my controller eventually and turn up those phase amps (maybe higher than 450+). Do you think it is better that I leave it 18s or is 20s OK? I'm using a smaller 17" motorcross wheel on a cromotor.

Basically is 18s even safer than 20s for high phase amps, or does it not matter until you reach 82 volts?

It not matter until you reach 82 volts.

Also teh new 14kW improoved controller have better voltage overshoot protection for high phase amp.

Doc

do you have any idea what the changes were? more caps?
mainly, can it be retro'ed to older versions?

 

[frankrs]

Hi,

Can somebody help me with the settings for a mini e controller combined with a mxus v2 motor.
I am using samsung 25R cells 20S 10 P

Thanks

Frank

 

[frankrs]

Hi,

I have another guestion.
I will be using two magura brake switches for my ebike build.
Does anybody have experience connecting these with the adaptto controller.?
Thanks

Frank

 

[madin88]

Hi,

I have another guestion.
I will be using two magura brake switches for my ebike build.
Does anybody have experience connecting these with the adaptto controller.?
Thanks

Frank

wanna do the same, but unfortunately adaptto doesn't have an input for brake cut off switches.
seems like we need to work out a circuit.
i would like to have it this way:
- motor cut off and slight regen braking
- a thumb throttle still can be used for variable e-brake in addition
- an insulated contact that closes for brake light function

any ideas?