Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Allex]

This kind of voltage drop usually a case of some faulty cell(s). Sometimes it can be so bad that the voltage drop is bigger than the balancing current so the BMS will never balance the pack.
Try to balance it out and then disconnect the pack from everything, leave it for 24h or more and then check the balance of the pack.

 

[ziltoid81]

I will.

Do you know the balancing current of the BMS?

 

[Allex]

Around 50-70mAh per cell.

 

[Doctorbass]

Hey,...

19.5kW 228A batt today!! 8) .. and i think the display only measure MASTER controller data in 2WD...

and... Locked last version RC9G v4 firmware! :wink:

and... INSANE ACCLERATION on my 2WD bike!!!!

WOW..

 

[fullonoob]

video?

 

[Doctorbass]

video?

Not yet.. I am crazy but as far as holding a camera video while the other hand is on the handle at that speed!!!

I need to find a way to take great shot of everything in video with great quality...

Doc

 

[fullonoob]

get the dji inspire 1

 

[Mammalian04]

get the dji inspire 1

I have used the follow me feature on the Phantom 3 but you must keep the controller with you. Isn't this the same with the Inspire 1? How do you secure the controller while riding the bike?

 

[bigbore]

I'm looking for a DC Circuit Breaker that can be used with Max-e controllers. Anybody found a DC Circuit Breaker that works until 150DC Amps?
Here is what I found for solar plants:
http://solarmatrix.com.au/products/accessories/circuit-breaker/abb-two-pole-dc-breakers-10-80-800v

This is good until 80V: https://www.asi-ez.com/member/~NDB3100Z475-1LSS3A1.asp?

Could be used both poles resulting in 160A max current? I'm going to ask them if they have an adjustable unit so we could set the current at 75A and use both poles for 150A

Also Doctorbass has installed something similar in his 2wd NYX e-bike:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bX-0-Qho5FM

 

[Doctorbass]

I'm looking for a DC Circuit Breaker that can be used with Max-e controllers. Anybody found a DC Circuit Breaker that works until 150DC Amps?
Here is what I found for solar plants:
http://solarmatrix.com.au/products/accessories/circuit-breaker/abb-two-pole-dc-breakers-10-80-800v

This is good until 80V: https://www.asi-ez.com/member/~NDB3100Z475-1LSS3A1.asp?

Could be used both poles resulting in 160A max current? I'm going to ask them if they have an adjustable unit so we could set the current at 75A and use both poles for 150A

Also Doctorbass has installed something similar in his 2wd NYX e-bike:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bX-0-Qho5FM

I bought 4 of the 63A 150VDC midnight solar breaker for about 20$ each thes etrip at 81.9A witch is just perfect for two in parallel

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321747924017?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=510652994027&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Doc

 

[bigbore]

Thank you for the tip. Is not too much 164A for a standard Max-e?

 

[Doctorbass]

Thank you for the tip. Is not too much 164A for a standard Max-e?

NO :wink:

If you use batt voltage under 85V I see no prob using that batt amp

Doc

 

[Cowardlyduck]

At long last it appears Adaptto has helped me figure out the cause of my endless issues with the Mini-E.
For those who aren't aware, my Mini-E has been sent back to Russia and repaired (whole power board replaced) twice now. The symptoms were strange. Everything appears normal, but I got no amps or watts reading. I was able to ride the bike around, but the controller did not clamp power at all and acceleration was insane. Both times it blew, it was when I ran auto detect.

All this time I have been making the assumption that the main battery negative and positive XT150 connectors coming out of the controller would have opposite sex. I.e. if Positive is male, then negative should be female. That is how many batteries and controllers I have worked with are wired. Generally I believe it is so you cannot accidentally reverse polarity when plugging in even if you mix up the colors. I've never come across battery connectors where the same sex is used for both polarities. Is this common and am I just oblivious to normal here?

Anyway it turns out this logic doesn't apply to Adaptto. I must have missed it when reading the manual, and never considered that it would be the source of my problem until, after 2X warranty repairs and numerous video's showing function, Adaptto support finally asked if I was using the right ground wire for the battery.

I never previously connected that particular ground for 2 reasons:

The positive (red) wire has a Male XT150 end on it, so I assumed the corresponding ground (black) wire would be the Female XT150 end as this is how many other batteries and controllers I have worked with are wired.

Since the controller turned on and fully functioned apart from watts/amps sensing, I assumed the ground wire I was using was the correct one.

Anyway, hopefully this saves someone else the pain I've gone through, and I hope Adaptto might learn from this also...if they don't want to change the XT150 connector sex, then maybe they can use a different plug or color entirely for the charging wire...just a suggestion.

Regardless of all this, Adaptto support had been pretty great. Although slow to respond at times, they always did there best to help me out. The biggest pain to me was the time lost, and the money spent send it back to Russia twice. All up this Mini-E has cost me nearly $850 AUD, so I hope it is all I hoped it would be and better.

Cheers

 

[Allex]

Oh man, what a bummer.
To avoid this problem I did usually send the controllers to the customers with charge wire marked as "Charge" this was before the inconsistent manual. I don't do this anymore as they have a great support page showing how everything is connected.
The reason they want you to use female plugs on both negative and positive terminals on the battery side is so you accidentally do not connect them together

 

[Routybouty]

So...for unlimited power use, use the charge for the battery negative, got it (must bypass a shunt)! Just kidding!!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The reason they want you to use female plugs on both negative and positive terminals on the battery side is so you accidentally do not connect them together

I see. Well I guess it's a question of what is the more likely mistake...connecting Red to Black because the plugs allow it, or connecting reverse polarity because the plugs allow it. I think people are less likely to plug the battery to itself TBH, and connecting the controller to itself will do nothing anyway.

So...for unlimited power use, use the charge for the battery negative, got it (must bypass a shunt)! Just kidding!!

Well yes actually...you just loose the ability to measure battery usage or power draw.
As I mentioned, the few times I did ride it like that, acceleration was INSANE!!! The controller did get hot, but not too hot with my active cooling setup.
However if your going to do it...you would be better off just using the unlocked firmware IMO.

Cheers

 

[ozman]

I gather you are not using the Adaptto charging coil to charge your pack?

Because the negative wire the with the black xt150 on the coil is mated for that particular wire coming out of the controller

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I gather you are not using the Adaptto charging coil to charge your pack?

Because the negative wire the with the black xt150 on the coil is mated for that particular wire coming out of the controller

Yeah, not using the charging coil as I already have enough bulk chargers.
That would have made it obvious though.

Cheers

 

[Mammalian04]

This is the voltage coming from the controller to halls. 0.42v. I get about 4.8 from the USB port and I tried using that for the Halls, as per CREAKS's trick but that didn't work either. Tester shows bother sets of halls on the Cromotor are still good. I have been fiddling with this MaxE problem for a few hours every so often for many months and I am worn out from it.

Does this controller just need to go back to Adappto for repairs?

 

[qwøck]

Does anybody know what size resistor I need to replace R113. My 0402 resistor arrived today, but looks way too small.

You are right. It is too small. The R113 resistor case style is 0603(1608 metric). I asked adaptto a few weeks ago.

Now i´m just wondering how i should get the pcb plastic coating off. Any good ideas? I was thinking about using a solvent.

 

[Offroader]

Does anybody know what size resistor I need to replace R113. My 0402 resistor arrived today, but looks way too small.

You are right. It is too small. The R113 resistor case style is 0603(1608 metric). I asked adaptto a few weeks ago.

Now i´m just wondering how i should get the pcb plastic coating off. Any good ideas? I was thinking about using a solvent.

The solvent is a big annoyance. I found that using 91% rubbing alcohol did work to remove it. I put it on a Q-tip and kept wiping until it comes off. It does take a while and has to dissolve into it to loosen it up.

 

[Offroader]

This is the voltage coming from the controller to halls. 0.42v. I get about 4.8 from the USB port and I tried using that for the Halls, as per CREAKS's trick but that didn't work either. Tester shows bother sets of halls on the Cromotor are still good. I have been fiddling with this MaxE problem for a few hours every so often for many months and I am worn out from it.

Does this controller just need to go back to Adappto for repairs?

How did this happen? Did you short something?

 

[Mammalian04]

How did this happen? Did you short something?

Not sure. I thought I was doing something wrong all this time so I tried the other MaxE on my second Raptor build and everything is fine in bench test (2nd bike isn't ready to be ridden yet as I have been wasting so much time on the controller for the first bike). Could have a problem from production or it could have been shorted somehow but the tester shows everything fine with the motor.

Is this the behavior you guys have when the resistors blows? I posted a video a few posts back of what it does in auto detect. Jerks and makes noise and then says halls error 2. When I turn it on, it also says !Halls! So I knew it wouldn't work.

I have a MXUS 3000 I could try it with. If the controller is shorted somehow, could it damage my other motor to hook it up and give it a try?

 

[Offroader]

When I shorted my wires and blew the protection resistor, I believe my halls voltage was around 4.3 volts. It should have been 4.8 volts. But this could change. Usually the biggest sign of this resistor being blown is an incorrect halls voltage.

I would honestly open the controller and test the resistance in the resistor, that is fairly easy. You're going to have to remove the lacquer with some alcohol to get contact but it should read around 3.9 ohms or something. If you get something in the 1000 K ohm range then you shorted it and need it replaced.

Why adappto didn't put this resistor in a much easier place to reach and easier to replace is beyond me. It is so easy to short this resistor and many of us will eventually short one of those wires. I shorted mine twice already, one time it was the temp gauge wire to phase wire. They should have honestly put some kind of easily replaceable fuse.

A pain resistor to replace but easier than sending it back to Russia. Just do some practice replacements on some junk electronics board and watch youtube vidoes on how to replace them.

 

[Mammalian04]

Thanks Offroader. I suspect that is the culprit. I robbed the controller off my other build and it worked. Throttle connector was bad from the display so I just snipped it. When for a test ride and all seems in order.

Now to deal with the bad controller. Bah. I may just send it back to Adaptto and let them add the on/off and PAS while they have it. I will need to get another controller from Alex for a different build so maybe I can use it in the meantime.

Is there a contact these days for warranty work at Adaptto?