Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ridethelightning]

that would kill the hall 5v id say.
probably not too dificult to fix though, just replace a blown resistor i think.

 

[Jonboy]

I can honestly say, Auto detect just does not work with my cromotor
I have tried a number of differing phase wire combinations...
I have eliminated temp sensor wires...
I have tried a different set of hall sensors...
I have completely stripped my bike down today and check all external components and wiring and then rebuilt it all.

I was somewhat stupidly under the impression that auto detect did it all for you :lol: how naïve was i ?

Where's my mate Jonboy? Jon, its time to copy in all your settings. I have thrown in the towel. :lol:

Copy away bro.. bit disappointing. Can't think why it's not playing ball..

 

[brumbrum]

I can honestly say, Auto detect just does not work with my cromotor
I have tried a number of differing phase wire combinations...
I have eliminated temp sensor wires...
I have tried a different set of hall sensors...
I have completely stripped my bike down today and check all external components and wiring and then rebuilt it all.

I was somewhat stupidly under the impression that auto detect did it all for you :lol: how naïve was i ?

Where's my mate Jonboy? Jon, its time to copy in all your settings. I have thrown in the towel. :lol:

Copy away bro.. bit disappointing. Can't think why it's not playing ball..

No worries, i dont think i am on my own with this issue, it seems to be quite common with the cromotors. I will have a play this evening with the halls offset and wire reverse and phases to try setting up manually.Go from there. All the hall wires are showing correct sequences from 1-6 on both set of hall wires so i cannot see it being a hall signal problem.
Daddy day care today

 

[Jonboy]

I was going to say shall we have a look, but I remembered you're on duty... :wink:

 

[madin88]

Madin8 - C63 are for overcurrent protection, for example my A123 20ah could go 10C = 200amps on the poor little Mini-E that can only take 65ish Amp. Instead of blowing up a controller on fault the breaker will trip and save primarily 'me'the user from a thumping great belt . Reason for spark is an immediate in-rush demand from the controller, anti-spark kinda trickle feeds the caps instead of dumping it in a oner. Hence if you leave batt connected all the time caps are charged n waiting for fets to allow them to dump their load .

Nother Edit - Mini-E has x1 63a breaker coz max batt demand is 60-65A constant'ish and Max-E has x2 coz 160a max batt constant'ish, however it'd be interesting to see a MAX-E pull 160amps for more than the few seconds it takes to trip the x2 breakers .

The "C" means it takes 10-15 times the current for an instant cut off (a few ms). So calculate 63A x 15 = >900A
At two times the current it could be that it takes something like 2 min before it breakes connection (like Allex mentioned).
I can't believe such breaker would help against blowing a FET or something else if there is a fault with the Controller.
Much more the Controller ITSELF need to monitore the current extremely fast and accurate in order to protect the FET's.

Yes it is nice to have a switchable fuse, but aside from that, i still can't understand why Adaptto recommends to use them as it's known now they don't precharge.

 

[ridethelightning]

I can honestly say, Auto detect just does not work with my cromotor
I have tried a number of differing phase wire combinations...
I have eliminated temp sensor wires...
I have tried a different set of hall sensors...
I have completely stripped my bike down today and check all external components and wiring and then rebuilt it all.

I was somewhat stupidly under the impression that auto detect did it all for you :lol: how naïve was i ?

Where's my mate Jonboy? Jon, its time to copy in all your settings. I have thrown in the towel. :lol:

Copy away bro.. bit disappointing. Can't think why it's not playing ball..

No worries, i dont think i am on my own with this issue, it seems to be quite common with the cromotors. I will have a play this evening with the halls offset and wire reverse and phases to try setting up manually.Go from there. All the hall wires are showing correct sequences from 1-6 on both set of hall wires so i cannot see it being a hall signal problem.
Daddy day care today

whats that?....just a minute daddys busy,..just stay here and ill go get something.............hey! stop chewing on that phase wire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ccmdr]

madin88 - maybe Our versions of breaker understanding are slightly different or we've explained it differently. Your right a breaker is not a pre-charge, however once you've set your breaker and leave the battery connected you no longer have need of pre-charge. Do you disable breakers in the house after switching off items at the plug ? I thought the C rating (10-20) is the max current dissapation from a short-circuit the breaker can handle before the contacts vapourise, and the 63 is the nominal current flow? Maybe I'm off .

 

[brumbrum]

[/quote]


whats that?....just a minute daddys busy,..just stay here and ill go get something.............hey! stop chewing on that phase wire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [/quote]

Haaah! , yeah, i'm ashamed to say that pretty much sums it up? :wink:

 

[Offroader]

Someone here had a problem of every 4th cell being higher than the others.

has this problem been fixed and is this an issue with the BMS?

 

[madin88]

Your right a breaker is not a pre-charge, however once you've set your breaker and leave the battery connected you no longer have need of pre-charge.

man, i'm aware of that the reason this discussion started is Artur spreaded misinformation and it seems like many others (and you too) thought they have precharge function.

Do you disable breakers in the house after switching off items at the plug ?

Think of a DCDC converter you like to add for lights and other functions. You do not want to have it connected all time to the battery.
On electric vehicles, the reason you should have a fuse is to protect the battery and wiring in case of a short. But like you thought, this will not help to protect your controller from blowing, because any breaker or fuse will have too long time delay.

I thought the C rating (10-20) is the max current dissapation from a short-circuit the breaker can handle before the contacts vapourise, and the 63 is the nominal current flow? Maybe I'm off .

yes you are off
The letters stand for cut out characteristics and this has nothing to do with current it can handle before the contacts turn into plasma (whis is usually 10kA or more).

 

[brumbrum]

Well, i have gone through the manual settings and managed to get a moving wheel! Yippee
I am only pulling 1 to 2 amps unloaded to get up to 45mph where the motor tops out.

The throttle is only using about a third of the action for the motor to top out. Can anyone shed some light on this please? Is this normal for unloaded?

I have also managed now to get to the throttle linearity graph. Do i need to adjust this somehow?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The throttle is only using about a third of the action for the motor to top out. Can anyone shed some light on this please? Is this normal for unloaded?

Normal. Adaptto throttle interpretation is torque based vs almost every other controller is speed based.

I have also manged now to get to the throttle linearity graph. Do i need to adjust this somehow?

No need to adjust the graph as long as it's mostly smooth. Adjust the linearity number up/down till the throttle responds how you like.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

Well, i have gone through the manual settings and managed to get a moving wheel! Yippee
I am only pulling 1 to 2 amps unloaded to get up to 45mph where the motor tops out.

yeah, the adaptto autodetect is really only good to get the combo right,the other settings can be so far off sometimes.
iv gone through just this with a qs, it just wouldnt even turn properly on autodetect, had to input the settings manually.

 

[brumbrum]

Awesome, thanks both for answering. I can now have more of a play with other values.

 

[notger]

Hi,

i'll join you in the adaptto-community.
just finished my adaptto, gng setup.

now some probably basic questions, but i cannot find useful answers.

What kind of reed switch, or halls sensor are people using as speed sensor with middrives?
aren't reed-switches very sensitive to vibration?
in the manual it says "connect a reed type speed sensor or external Hall speed sensor in place of the brake lever sensor"
so that makes the brake sensor unuseable then? or would it be so smart to recognice the difference of pulsed speed input and an/off input of the brake if i connect both?

AND:

i cannot set the battery capacity lower than 14Ah ? for short "conservative" trips i use 8Ah and would like to get the battery bar to work with them too? i do not use a bms right now cause VTC4.

AND:

do you guys precharge the capacitator of the adatto in anyway (resistor, or precharge electronics?).
and is it a must?, cause i'm using a circuit breaker, so i do not see or recognice the "sparks" but when connectin the battery directly it sparks pretty strong, so would it be dangerous for any electronics in the controller, cause the capacitators should handle that anyway?

AND:
will all versions of PAS work with adaptto, linear and digital ? v6 or7, or8 however they are called?

thanks alot

Gernot

 

[brumbrum]

Can someone please confirm that this is the correct hall sensor needed to run my regen braking on my brake lever please?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SS49E-Hon...060012?hash=item1ea3bc856c:g:9hMAAOSwPcVVyhL6

 

[steveo]

Hey everyone,

Ive run into a bizarre problem with my 2wd setup, for some reason, when i set speed limiters on both controllers.. say 32kmh.. the master controller will limit at 32km/h .. however the slave controller will not limit speed..

the only way ive been able to limit the slave speed was to set a speed cutoff for the slave in the master controller.. only then it would limit the slaves controller speed..

ive done full resets on both controllers..run through the 2wd setup.. and i can not figure out the problem

i forgot to mention the 2wd cable is installed between the special slave connector on slave controller ... and the bms input on the master controller as indicated in the 2wd diagram

any ideas

thanks!

 

[sn0wchyld]

Hi,

i'll join you in the adaptto-community.
just finished my adaptto, gng setup.

now some probably basic questions, but i cannot find useful answers.

What kind of reed switch, or halls sensor are people using as speed sensor with middrives?
aren't reed-switches very sensitive to vibration?
in the manual it says "connect a reed type speed sensor or external Hall speed sensor in place of the brake lever sensor"
so that makes the brake sensor unuseable then? or would it be so smart to recognice the difference of pulsed speed input and an/off input of the brake if i connect both?

AND:

i cannot set the battery capacity lower than 14Ah ? for short "conservative" trips i use 8Ah and would like to get the battery bar to work with them too? i do not use a bms right now cause VTC4.

AND:

do you guys precharge the capacitator of the adatto in anyway (resistor, or precharge electronics?).
and is it a must?, cause i'm using a circuit breaker, so i do not see or recognice the "sparks" but when connectin the battery directly it sparks pretty strong, so would it be dangerous for any electronics in the controller, cause the capacitators should handle that anyway?

AND:
will all versions of PAS work with adaptto, linear and digital ? v6 or7, or8 however they are called?

thanks alot

Gernot

for my middrive, i run it without a freewheel - if you have a freewheel, then the ebrakes arn't much use, and if you dont have a freewheel, then you dont need the reed switch

 

[notger]

for my middrive, i run it without a freewheel - if you have a freewheel, then the ebrakes arn't much use, and if you dont have a freewheel, then you dont need the reed switch

with or without freewheel, i use the bike gears too, so the "internal" speedo would not work anyway

 

[madin88]

Hey everyone,

Ive run into a bizarre problem with my 2wd setup, for some reason, when i set speed limiters on both controllers.. say 32kmh.. the master controller will limit at 32km/h .. however the slave controller will not limit speed..

the only way ive been able to limit the slave speed was to set a speed cutoff for the slave in the master controller.. only then it would limit the slaves controller speed..

I'm too working on a 2WD setup and would like to power it up as soon as the motors are laced and mounted to the vehicle (only waiting for the spokes).
I wonder what's the reason behind this issue. Have you contacted Adaptto?
It is possible that doctorbass knows something about that because he also run 2WD, but i believe he don't ride with a set speed limit

 

[steveo]

Hey everyone,

Ive run into a bizarre problem with my 2wd setup, for some reason, when i set speed limiters on both controllers.. say 32kmh.. the master controller will limit at 32km/h .. however the slave controller will not limit speed..

the only way ive been able to limit the slave speed was to set a speed cutoff for the slave in the master controller.. only then it would limit the slaves controller speed..

I'm too working on a 2WD setup and would like to power it up as soon as the motors are laced and mounted to the vehicle (only waiting for the spokes).
I wonder what's the reason behind this issue. Have you contacted Adaptto?
It is possible that doctorbass knows something about that because he also run 2WD, but i believe he don't ride with a set speed limit

I sent them a message already, i'm waiting on reply

if i run only the slave controller with the display and the 2wd cable removed, the controller limits fine.. its only when i connect the slave controller to the master via the 2wd cable.. and move the display to the master controller that this happens.

if weird, other then that the controller runs flawless..

-steveo

 

[brumbrum]

Hi folks, i cannot get the controller to charge, am i missing something obvious?
My eaton psu with the adaptto coil attached gives me the 54.6v reading.

I have the psu switched off and then attach the positive on the coil to the phase wire and then negative to the controller charge lead. Enter charge mode and then switch on eaton psu but nothing happens. The eaton psu still blinks with the orange light to say there is no current flowing and the controller reads no current.

Also, since switching on the charger, on the main screen my battery now shows as being 100% charged and the estimated remaining range is 641 miles? I have inputted ah and wh correctly. Before the charger was plugged in, both the range and SOC were correct. Battery is 20s 30ah.

Do i need to change the supply voltage drop setting for the psu?

Here are some pics of my settings....

 

[Ohbse]

Hi folks, i cannot get the controller to charge, am i missing something obvious?
My eaton psu with the adaptto coil attached gives me the 54.6v reading.

I have the psu switched off and then attach the positive on the coil to the phase wire and then negative to the controller charge lead. Enter charge mode and then switch on eaton psu but nothing happens. The eaton psu still blinks with the orange light to say there is no current flowing and the controller reads no current.

Also, since switching on the charger, on the main screen my battery now shows as being 100% charged and the estimated remaining range is 641 miles? I have inputted ah and wh correctly. Before the charger was plugged in, both the range and SOC were correct. Battery is 20s 30ah.

Just to clarify, when you say connect to the phase lead, you're connecting to a phase that you have added an additional connector to as a 'T' tap, not disconnecting that phase from the motor? This matters a great deal.

You're absolutely certain that you have your controller ground and charge connector around the right way? Surprising how many people have gotten that mixed up too..

You could also try changing the 'chgsensor inv' to NO.

You should alter your supply current to limit your charging power, you should have your 'charge current' set to your maximum allowable charge rate of the battery. Vary supply current to alter charging speed but generally leave charge current alone as this is the setting that will limit not just charging but also regen. With charge current set high your regeneration power limit will be determined by your 'power profile' settings and your speed at the time.

Lastly regarding your range, this is nothing to worry about. Your estimated range remaining is based on the distance you've covered since, I'm guessing you were running the wheel off the ground at some stage and this will artificially inflate your efficiency to a crazy degree.

 

[brumbrum]

Hi folks, i cannot get the controller to charge, am i missing something obvious?
My eaton psu with the adaptto coil attached gives me the 54.6v reading.

I have the psu switched off and then attach the positive on the coil to the phase wire and then negative to the controller charge lead. Enter charge mode and then switch on eaton psu but nothing happens. The eaton psu still blinks with the orange light to say there is no current flowing and the controller reads no current.

Also, since switching on the charger, on the main screen my battery now shows as being 100% charged and the estimated remaining range is 641 miles? I have inputted ah and wh correctly. Before the charger was plugged in, both the range and SOC were correct. Battery is 20s 30ah.

Just to clarify, when you say connect to the phase lead, you're connecting to a phase that you have added an additional connector to as a 'T' tap, not disconnecting that phase from the motor? This matters a great deal.

You're absolutely certain that you have your controller ground and charge connector around the right way? Surprising how many people have gotten that mixed up too..

You could also try changing the 'chgsensor inv' to NO.

You should alter your supply current to limit your charging power, you should have your 'charge current' set to your maximum allowable charge rate of the battery. Vary supply current to alter charging speed but generally leave charge current alone as this is the setting that will limit not just charging but also regen. With charge current set high your regeneration power limit will be determined by your 'power profile' settings and your speed at the time.

Lastly regarding your range, this is nothing to worry about. Your estimated range remaining is based on the distance you've covered since, I'm guessing you were running the wheel off the ground at some stage and this will artificially inflate your efficiency to a crazy degree.

Yes, all phase connectors are pluged in, i am using the T-connector off the motor phase wire.
My charge connector has yellow shrink wrap around it and is a female xt150 (not male like the controller battery pos and neg).
I will try to put charge current up to 30amp which is 1C charge rate for my pack, and the eaton psu is 37.5amp as far as i know. I will also try amd change the chgsensor to NO.

The bike has not left my garage as yet so only seen unloaded runs on setting up.
Thanks for the help.

 

[ridethelightning]

charge settings:

supply voltage drop needs to be correct, for eaton charging an 84v pack @20A should be no problem wi it set to 2-3v i think(ill check and confirm)

your bms cell voltage config settings need to be right. or it may not charge.

high voltage cutt-off needs to be right too.

for eaton, i set my supply current to ~31A charge current max ~20A for 84vnom. packs are between 20-36 ah. this will generally give me around 1.7-1.8kw charging power.

basically, what im trying to say is that multiple settings in multiple places (bms setup and charge settings, maybe even regen settings)will affect the charging behaviour.
hope this helps
RTL
{edit] but looking over your screen shots, it looks like everything is set as it should be, except praps the supply current.
it looks as if its somehow not connected to the psu(?)