Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Hey Jon, i think active mode uses some battery power whilst braking. I think, as well, it may enable regen to keep working until the bike is at a full stand still. :?

Hey everyone,
I have just done my first test run!
I had to send my controller to Russia before i had a chance to use it due to it not taking a charge current. Just a loose wire that cost me two months of misery!
I have had to set things up manually without autodetect as auto detect will not play for me and i have been put off it after watching my motor speed up stupidly fast and then abruptly jamming during autodetect process.
I used the jedi force to set up the controller feeling my way around the settings through vibration/sound and meditation. :wink:

On unloaded runs getting things smooth quiet etc i ended up with quite high angle corrections and timings. The motor got quite warm on my 20 minute stop n start runs at 3.3kw with cro getting to 40mph with 40amp and 120 phase. So i will be taming down my angles and timings one by one to see what happens.. Controller got warmish, mosfet temp was 40*C , so far so goodish. At least the damn thing works.

Fook, the motor is ghostly silent :D but the ramp up is quite slow.... Not the same omph as a lyen.

Dont flame me,,,, here are my settings
Cromotor/maxe/20s 30ah lipo
Angle corr -11
Ind timing 756
Pwr timing 156
Ovs - zero
 
maybe the last 140 sites have an answer, but i didnt find how to beef up throttle and regen settings as i know from my sabvoton.

throttle ranges are set,
ebrake ranges also...

throttle is very lazy....yes, when i give wot, theres the power i set up.
but from 0-60% its sooooo lazy for me....

how can i get a badass responding throttle?!


and ebrake is weak.....really weak....it works till i stop but all parameters i have set did not change anything that i can say, wow, watch out, the tire will skid.

:?: :oops: :?


and can someone translate me what the firmware update tool want to say?
 

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Jonboy said:
I did see that info later.. not that I totally understand it... I did another auto detect with the feature switched on. All good, im on the hill as I tx.
What does active mode do?

Yeah I can't say I completely understand it either. That's great your back in business!
 
Jonboy said:
Of you get your curves up n you want it snappy twist the throttle a little quicker at the start.. youll see what I mean. A steep ramp will do th trick set smooth 0

Thanks for that. Will be doing this tomorrow for throttle ramping.

I cannot get the brake curve to show up. :( I just get all the numbers and no graph
 
brumbrum said:
Jonboy said:
Of you get your curves up n you want it snappy twist the throttle a little quicker at the start.. youll see what I mean. A steep ramp will do th trick set smooth 0

Thanks for that. Will be doing this tomorrow for throttle ramping.

I cannot get the brake curve to show up. :( I just get all the numbers and no graph

Hey Brum try setting the limits so that while not braking the marker sits just before (to the left) the low voltage indicator and at max braking the marker goes slightly PAST (to the right) the high voltage indicator. Same thing for the throttle. This should get you your graph back.
 
GmagNeato said:
brumbrum said:
Jonboy said:
Of you get your curves up n you want it snappy twist the throttle a little quicker at the start.. youll see what I mean. A steep ramp will do th trick set smooth 0

Thanks for that. Will be doing this tomorrow for throttle ramping.

I cannot get the brake curve to show up. :( I just get all the numbers and no graph

Hey Brum try setting the limits so that while not braking the marker sits just before (to the left) the low voltage indicator and at max braking the marker goes slightly PAST (to the right) the high voltage indicator. Same thing for the throttle. This should get you your graph back.
Jonboy said:
I can't either, but linear is stock n good. Try n get the range of voltage as much as you can. Mines rubbish but dewis green rappy I made sure.. rode lush ! Magnet placement ;)


I have got the magnet literally scrapping on the brake hall sensor which gives the lowest voltage i can get but the highest voltage when magnet moved away is 2.5v, even if i take the hall sensor completely away from the magnet.

Brake limit markers: the first one sits to the left already of the begining voltage, but i will try and raise the upper limit past the 2.5v for sure.
 
Jonboy said:
Of you get your curves up n you want it snappy twist the throttle a little quicker at the start.. youll see what I mean. A steep ramp will do th trick set smooth 0


Have now tried this with the throttle linearity curve graph. Now i understand the purpose of this! A quicker twist at the begining and slower at the end gives me a steeper graph that slowly levels out near the top..... nice! 8)
 
I did some backyard testing of the effectiveness of my new heat-sink addition, and can report that it works really well. :)

I could not get the controller FETs above 40C riding around and to get them over 50C I had to WOT against a wall and even then they cooled off very quickly. I can feel the heat-sinks sucking the heat away with my hand. :)

I also switched motor's today, back to my Leaf motor from my HS4080, and had a hard time re-tuning for it. In the end the only way I could get it to work was with an auto-detect, then further manual tuning after that.
A question for those that might know:
What causes a higher amp draw than specified in the settings?

I have my profiles set to 25A, 45A, and 65A for ECO, NORMAL, BOOST, but during use I see approx 27A, 50A, 75A.
I'm not using the LS Traction hack and my PWR timing is only 0.53.

Any idea's what can cause this?

Cheers
 
Merlin said:
maybe the last 140 sites have an answer, but i didnt find how to beef up throttle and regen settings as i know from my sabvoton.

throttle ranges are set,
ebrake ranges also...

throttle is very lazy....yes, when i give wot, theres the power i set up.
but from 0-60% its sooooo lazy for me....

how can i get a badass responding throttle?!


and ebrake is weak.....really weak....it works till i stop but all parameters i have set did not change anything that i can say, wow, watch out, the tire will skid.

:?: :oops: :?


and can someone translate me what the firmware update tool want to say?
I think it says all good, ready to go.
 
brumbrum said:
Hey Jon, i think active mode uses some battery power whilst braking. I think, as well, it may enable regen to keep working until the bike is at a full stand still. :?

Hey everyone,
I have just done my first test run!
I had to send my controller to Russia before i had a chance to use it due to it not taking a charge current. Just a loose wire that cost me two months of misery!
I have had to set things up manually without autodetect as auto detect will not play for me and i have been put off it after watching my motor speed up stupidly fast and then abruptly jamming during autodetect process.
I used the jedi force to set up the controller feeling my way around the settings through vibration/sound and meditation. :wink:

On unloaded runs getting things smooth quiet etc i ended up with quite high angle corrections and timings. The motor got quite warm on my 20 minute stop n start runs at 3.3kw with cro getting to 40mph with 40amp and 120 phase. So i will be taming down my angles and timings one by one to see what happens.. Controller got warmish, mosfet temp was 40*C , so far so goodish. At least the damn thing works.

Fook, the motor is ghostly silent :D but the ramp up is quite slow.... Not the same omph as a lyen.

Dont flame me,,,, here are my settings
Cromotor/maxe/20s 30ah lipo
Angle corr -11
Ind timing 756
Pwr timing 156
Ovs - zero
Try angle plus 0.4 or so.
Ind 598
Pwr 1.42
Ovs 4 or
Speed smooth 25000 :wink:
 
Merlin said:
if it says everything is ok, the sd card is empty :D

this is normal. once the update tool has done it's job, the SD card won't show up anymore (it says raw file format).

as usually with adaptto, it often does not work at the first time. if you using a fresh SD card, it's necessary to run the update a few times together with unplug / insert the SD card between.
if you using a card where a FW alreaday has been written on, it should work on the first try.
 
ridethelightning said:
brumbrum said:
Hey Jon, i think active mode uses some battery power whilst braking. I think, as well, it may enable regen to keep working until the bike is at a full stand still. :?

Hey everyone,
I have just done my first test run!
I had to send my controller to Russia before i had a chance to use it due to it not taking a charge current. Just a loose wire that cost me two months of misery!
I have had to set things up manually without autodetect as auto detect will not play for me and i have been put off it after watching my motor speed up stupidly fast and then abruptly jamming during autodetect process.
I used the jedi force to set up the controller feeling my way around the settings through vibration/sound and meditation. :wink:

On unloaded runs getting things smooth quiet etc i ended up with quite high angle corrections and timings. The motor got quite warm on my 20 minute stop n start runs at 3.3kw with cro getting to 40mph with 40amp and 120 phase. So i will be taming down my angles and timings one by one to see what happens.. Controller got warmish, mosfet temp was 40*C , so far so goodish. At least the damn thing works.

Fook, the motor is ghostly silent :D but the ramp up is quite slow.... Not the same omph as a lyen.

Dont flame me,,,, here are my settings
Cromotor/maxe/20s 30ah lipo
Angle corr -11
Ind timing 756
Pwr timing 156
Ovs - zero
Try angle plus 0.4 or so.
Ind 598
Pwr 1.42
Ovs 4 or
Speed smooth 25000 :wink:


Cheers RTL, i had another play today. There seems to be a fair bit of wiggle room with angle corr. Ind timing dramatically changes speed of motor. I turned that down to a more sensible 400-ish setting. Still more playing to do though, as the motor is still getting very warm. Pwr setting now on 1.42

I did not realise that speed smooth went higher than 20000. So i will try changing that too.


The other thing i noticed with high ind timing is the motor keeps sucking up amps and the amps do not settle down when up to speed, they stay high. When turning Ind down the amps dropped once cruising. So it is easy to see how motor temps can get high quickly with too much ind.

Did a charge tonight and the controller got upto 40*C and the motor got slightly warm..... Is this normal? Charging at 20amps woth bms and adaptto coil.
 
Merlin said:
sry to ask, but how to set a curve to get a better responding throttle or ebrake?

Also try this for stronger brake/throttle: in throttle limits (and brake limits) try making the end voltage less. so if your throttle tops out at 3.8v bring the right hand side slider down a bit (to make the diagonal line look steeper, maybe to 3v). Be careful, as this may make your throttle response more sensitive and severe. This was suggested by Allex some time ago.
My hall sensor brake (end voltage) is 2.5v and I can get the wheel to skid.
 
my throttle goes from 0 to 5v....
i can setup only 0-4.7v in this adaptto menu...
i will try that in half an hour. would make sense, but it also means that i lower the range, i dont have to twist the throttle over 1/3 of his range to get full throttle.
dont know how that feels, but i will test it now :D
thx.


did you have active brake and force active on?
what weight did you setup and how did this affect the braking?
 
Merlin said:
my throttle goes from 0 to 5v....
i can setup only 0-4.7v in this adaptto menu...
i will try that in half an hour. would make sense, but it also means that i lower the range, i dont have to twist the throttle over 1/3 of his range to get full throttle.
dont know how that feels, but i will test it now :D
thx.


did you have active brake and force active on?
what weight did you setup and how did this affect the braking?

Active and forced active are both turned off. you could try 'Torque rise' in the regen settings??
weight 120kg. I doubt this will affect anything.
 
Merlin said:
my throttle goes from 0 to 5v....
i can setup only 0-4.7v in this adaptto menu...
i will try that in half an hour. would make sense, but it also means that i lower the range, i dont have to twist the throttle over 1/3 of his range to get full throttle.
dont know how that feels, but i will test it now :D
thx.


did you have active brake and force active on?
what weight did you setup and how did this affect the braking?

I think this is when you need a ~100 Ohm resistor between the throttle pos and neg.
As for the brake limits, you can press the brake in the graph screen and see the small dash at the bottom move.
This tells you how high this dash moves @ "max brake signal". Then adjust the limits accordingly, so you have a curve that matches your signalrange.
 
wheazel, thats what i did in ebrake and throttle.
throttle works as expected. i have shortend the range of the Domino Throttle from 0-3v now.
this is the Throttle response i know and like. thanks for that :)

... but with progression 0 and the full Range 2/3 of Power are only at the End of Range. Handy for new Ebikers and Grandma, but shity for me :D


i tried active on and forced on. this ebrake is "strongest"
without active and forced the brake is more weak.

i tried also weight from 100 to 150Kg....not really a difference..i couldnt tell what is what.
i have setup also torque rise to maximum, and max phase brake amps to maximum 300.

far away from a skidding wheel. :p

i will make a video :)
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I did some backyard testing of the effectiveness of my new heat-sink addition, and can report that it works really well. :)

I could not get the controller FETs above 40C riding around and to get them over 50C I had to WOT against a wall and even then they cooled off very quickly. I can feel the heat-sinks sucking the heat away with my hand. :)

I also switched motor's today, back to my Leaf motor from my HS4080, and had a hard time re-tuning for it. In the end the only way I could get it to work was with an auto-detect, then further manual tuning after that.
A question for those that might know:
What causes a higher amp draw than specified in the settings?

I have my profiles set to 25A, 45A, and 65A for ECO, NORMAL, BOOST, but during use I see approx 27A, 50A, 75A.
I'm not using the LS Traction hack and my PWR timing is only 0.53.

Any idea's what can cause this?

Cheers

Hey CD that's an odd one CD. Wonder if there's a setting that allows 10% ish over profile limits, or if it's a bug. What is the LS traction hack?
 
GmagNeato said:
Cowardlyduck said:
I did some backyard testing of the effectiveness of my new heat-sink addition, and can report that it works really well. :)

I could not get the controller FETs above 40C riding around and to get them over 50C I had to WOT against a wall and even then they cooled off very quickly. I can feel the heat-sinks sucking the heat away with my hand. :)

I also switched motor's today, back to my Leaf motor from my HS4080, and had a hard time re-tuning for it. In the end the only way I could get it to work was with an auto-detect, then further manual tuning after that.
A question for those that might know:
What causes a higher amp draw than specified in the settings?

I have my profiles set to 25A, 45A, and 65A for ECO, NORMAL, BOOST, but during use I see approx 27A, 50A, 75A.
I'm not using the LS Traction hack and my PWR timing is only 0.53.

Any idea's what can cause this?

Cheers

Hey CD that's an odd one CD. Wonder if there's a setting that allows 10% ish over profile limits, or if it's a bug. What is the LS traction hack?

I think you have to adjust the 'shunt 2' in calabration to get your profile limit and main display limit to match up.

LS traction: Doctorbass found that there was more power to be had from the controller by changing one of the traction settings, i cant remember which one, it's buried in this thread somewhere.
 
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