ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
this would explain a lot of things.
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
DasDouble
100 kW
Adaptto E-Drives Lab said:
Will I use warranty when installing the password protected firmware?
Regards, Elias
BCTECH
1 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 320
Offroader said:
I checked the pin 4 and 5 got 969 ohm, is it good or bad?
Also I double, triple checked the pin assignment is correct between the motor and controller connectors
I am pretty sure resistor in the controller is bad, since I don't get 5v.
next step is how to check the hall sensor or wire from motor side?
969 ohm is about 21 deg C which is probably right. Just wondering why your temp wasn't reading, but maybe it was on the main screen or maybe before you blew the halls resistor. Did your temperature ever show up?
I believe you are going to have to get something that is 5 volts to check those halls. Can you put a bunch of batteries in series to get 5 volts or maybe tap into a USB 5 volt wire by cutting into an old usb wire?
Connect that to the Positive and negative hall pin, then test like shown in that recommended link at ebikesca by rotating the tire. There are some youtube video also if you search for that on people checking their halls. But they are hooked up to the controller 5 volts, so you will have to add your own 5 volts because your controller is busted.
I would say if they all test fine, then check the resistor next and replace it.
I believe you are going to have to get something that is 5 volts to check those halls. Can you put a bunch of batteries in series to get 5 volts or maybe tap into a USB 5 volt wire by cutting into an old usb wire?
Connect that to the Positive and negative hall pin, then test like shown in that recommended link at ebikesca by rotating the tire. There are some youtube video also if you search for that on people checking their halls. But they are hooked up to the controller 5 volts, so you will have to add your own 5 volts because your controller is busted.
I would say if they all test fine, then check the resistor next and replace it.
BCTECH said:
You could try and get one of these....'ebike controller tester'... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-36V-4...158538?hash=item2360fead0a:g:NPMAAOSwpRRWmMQa
Just connect the Motor hall wires to this and see if the lights switch off and on.
Mammalian04
100 kW
brumbrum said:
Agree, we all need one of these in our toolbox...
rhinejuice
10 W
Mammalian04 said:
Do they actually work for that cash? has anyone used one? Im a midi noob would like a magic machine that told me what the F--- went wrong this time!
Mammalian04
100 kW
It's not a magic machine but it helps with the process of elimination. Grab a bag of colored alligator clip wires from your local cheap tool store since you will most likely not have the same connectors as what the tester does.
rhinejuice said:
I have one, but i paid considerably more for mine from Edward Lyen about 5 years ago and it works a treat.
Here is how it works.... https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=87595
Hey Guys,
since long time i'm planning to get my Votec bike with Max-E registered. Now the bike is fully conform to laws requirements, despite one thing:
the motor must cut off when pressing the hydraulic brake levers, but now i have a problem with the adaptto controller:
when i have applied variable e-brake (lets say one third), and also squeeze the throttle at the same time, the motor starts to accelerate (from the stand).
if i than apply more e-brake (lets say one half), the motor stops, but than if i push the throttle further, it again starts to spin and so on and so forth.
the setting "ACC off on BRK" in traction menu don't has an effect (can be set ON or OFF or is it YES or NO..)
-> aside from applying 100% (or almost full) of the variable e-brake, the throttle seems to always have priority against e-brake
Could someone please try the obove things out and report back?
iirc, that wasn't the case with previous FW.
It happens with newest FW (9g4) and the FW before (9g3).
since long time i'm planning to get my Votec bike with Max-E registered. Now the bike is fully conform to laws requirements, despite one thing:
the motor must cut off when pressing the hydraulic brake levers, but now i have a problem with the adaptto controller:
when i have applied variable e-brake (lets say one third), and also squeeze the throttle at the same time, the motor starts to accelerate (from the stand).
if i than apply more e-brake (lets say one half), the motor stops, but than if i push the throttle further, it again starts to spin and so on and so forth.
the setting "ACC off on BRK" in traction menu don't has an effect (can be set ON or OFF or is it YES or NO..)
-> aside from applying 100% (or almost full) of the variable e-brake, the throttle seems to always have priority against e-brake
Could someone please try the obove things out and report back?
iirc, that wasn't the case with previous FW.
It happens with newest FW (9g4) and the FW before (9g3).
Hi all I have a small niggle with my throttle.. I'm running variable regen al works great but at low throttle / slow speed im getting a small amount of braking before the throttle starts. I don't get brake come up on the screen & once rolling, say 5-10mph no problem? Any ideas?
Tried switching regen off to btw
Thanks
Jon
Tried switching regen off to btw
Thanks
Jon
DasDouble
100 kW
Jonboy said:
In the settings it says "minimum speed". You have to change from 5mph /kmph to 0. Then it will always start. You´re welcome
madin88 said:
Unfortunately i couldnt check that cause my bike is a building site again, but i (and some others i guess) would love to see a thread with your registration.
Wish you the best to succeed.
Maybe you can calibrate the regen brake, so it will apply full regen, even if youre only pulling it a little?
ziltoid81 said:
Thanks man
Yeah i definitely will create a new thread than.
I can only hope that the state government don't ask for an expert assessment of the braking system (in german: Bremsgutachten), because this would be really expensive..
into the hydraulic lines i have added pressure switches. the variable e-brake has a switch as well.
those three switches than trigger a dual pole relais (which is powered by the 12V dcdc). one contact of the realais joins the connection between the output of e-brake hall sensor to the input of the controller (-> the hall is permanently connected to +5V and GND, but the signal goes over the relais).
the other contact is for the brake light.
Like expected, if the relais triggers, i see in "brk limit" calibration menu the input voltage jumping from 0V to 0,9V.
The lower limit i have set to 0,3-0,4V in order that i get slight regen if i press the hydraulic levers.
But there is the problem with Adaptto software:
i have slight regen on, but if i than apply throttle at the same time, the motor starts to spin.
the more i twist the throttle, the more i need to push the e-brake to prevent the bike from accelerating.
It would not make sense to have throttle priority against e-brake, so i guess it is another software bug..
the setting "acc off on brk" don't has an effect, but i remember it worked on earlier FW's..
DasDouble said:Jonboy said:
In the settings it says "minimum speed". You have to change from 5mph /kmph to 0. Then it will always start. You´re welcome
Thanks for your reply, but I think you misunderstood the problem.. I tried what you said just incase, but the problem persists.
Anybody out there have an idea? I've switched regen off too.. and tried lots off throttle / brake end points..... :?
thnx
Allex
100 MW
bigbore said:Offroader said:bigbore said:I have been using 5ml of ferrofluid in my QS205 from a weeek.
How should they be adjusted both DC and phase currents? I'm trying to reduce motor overheat and at the same time have the max power.
For example I rode for some days with DC Amps = 110 and phase Amps = 320. This way I can reach 130°C after about 4Km wot on flat tarmac road.
Today I changed at DC Amps = 120 and phase Amps = 300. After first ride of about 8km (my half daily commute to work) seems better than before but I need to wait for a night ride with no one on the street
How does the Ferro FLuid seem to be working compared to not having it?
What is your average and top speed when you are WOT on flat tarmac road?
Ferrofluid works.
For now I tried on the beach in deep sand and it worked because covering a distance equal to that which in the past led me the motor around at 130 °C with ferrofluid have reached 108 °C
WOT on flat roads I'm about at 85 Km/h with peak power at 8Kw
Speaking of...my ferrofluid injection of 5ml work good! Before my motor did overheat pretty fast, now, the problem is that my controller inside the frame overheats faster than motor. Before, my covers got hot after about 5 minutes of rest when I came back from a ride. This is because it takes a lot of time to transfer heat from the stator, through the air gap inside and finally into the motor shell. Now, the motor covers gets hot pretty fast during a ride, this is a sign that heat does transfer way, way faster now in comparison to before.
I will move the controller outside of the frame and squirt another 5 mil of ferrofluid inside.
So I think that stamped stator with some cooling liquid inside is the winner here. All heat goes directly to the windings and out to the shell, boom, gone! And the stamped stator saves you from unsprung weight. Where if you have a aluminium core, the heat goes to this core inside to soak up the heat, all good, but once the core is hot enough then the heat have nowhere to go, yeah you can use liquid cooling in this case but you still have a unnecessary weight of the aluminium core.
I still haven't seen a huge cooling improvement with the FF added to my HS4080 compared to the cooling fans I run. I think that's mainly due to the slower, steeper riding I do which means there is less air flow over the covers.
I also had an idea for using Ferro Fluid to cool my controller.
Why not add some magnets to the inside and outside of the controller case, near where the FETs are mounted to the case, then add the Ferro Fluid there. That way there is a better thermal path from the hot FETs to the case.
Do others think it would help, or not make any difference?
Cheers
I also had an idea for using Ferro Fluid to cool my controller.
Why not add some magnets to the inside and outside of the controller case, near where the FETs are mounted to the case, then add the Ferro Fluid there. That way there is a better thermal path from the hot FETs to the case.
Do others think it would help, or not make any difference?
Cheers
Allex
100 MW
hehe, if you want better thermal conductivity from FETs to the aluminium heatsink then you probably should use ceramic pads
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lot-20x25x1mm-Alumina-ceramic-pads-thermally-conductive-insulation-sheet-high-temperature-resistant-Heat-Sink/32217437016.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.1.hdbhbG&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_5_10037_10017_507_10032_401,searchweb201603_6&btsid=285a1c06-a2df-4a31-a702-bdd5faa1adc1
Where Thermal conductivity should be much higher compared to the ones you often see in stock configuration
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lot-20x25x1mm-Alumina-ceramic-pads-thermally-conductive-insulation-sheet-high-temperature-resistant-Heat-Sink/32217437016.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.1.hdbhbG&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_5_10037_10017_507_10032_401,searchweb201603_6&btsid=285a1c06-a2df-4a31-a702-bdd5faa1adc1
Where Thermal conductivity should be much higher compared to the ones you often see in stock configuration
DasDouble
100 kW
Speaking about hot getting motors.. It would be interesting, if there would be an option to paint the motor with colore which changes its paint the hotter the surface gets.. What do you think? 
For example the colore of the motor surface is black-blue when ~25°C
Colore of motor changes it´s colore to red the hotter it gets..
Some opinions?
For example the colore of the motor surface is black-blue when ~25°C
Colore of motor changes it´s colore to red the hotter it gets..
Some opinions?
Allex
100 MW
You can also do some neon lights while you at it.
I guess I am too old and the motor temp on the screen is more than enough for me.
I guess I am too old and the motor temp on the screen is more than enough for me.
Mammalian04
100 kW
Good Idea.
There are stickers you can place on it that will do the same thing.
http://www.omega.com/subsection/non-reversible-temperature-label.html
We just need to find one with a bigger range and waterproof.
There are stickers you can place on it that will do the same thing.
http://www.omega.com/subsection/non-reversible-temperature-label.html
We just need to find one with a bigger range and waterproof.
GmagNeato
100 W
Ok so I can confirm that the max-e works with QS 205 V3 Extra type 3.5T. Autocomplete went fine first try. Still doing some testing and settings adjustments (learning as I go) and will post more details about performance soon. Gotta say I'm extremely stoked! Happy to answer any questions you may have, and I'm sure I'll have some of my own upcoming as this is my first build with an Adaptto controller.
Thanks for the suggestion. I might try this if heat becomes a problem for my controller.Allex said:
Yep, I've been doing this since 2011.Mammalian04 said:
This is 2 stickers end to end. Never had any problems with them coming off or water.
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-sensitive-labels/0286169/
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-sensitive-labels/0286175/
I do it with all my motors even with internal temp sensors as it makes a good fail safe in-case a sensor dies, and it's also interesting to see the difference between shell temp and internal temp which is still usually about 20C after resting.
Cheers
Mammalian04
100 kW
Thanks for the link. Fill in the white with a sharpie and you'd hardly know it's there (on a black motor).
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