Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[velias]

Thanks for the update and diagnosis. Glad to hear you found the issue.

Yeah, I just found the exact problem. Turns out they pulled the phase wires down so tight with zip ties to go out the axel one rubbed on the edge of the motor inside circular frame. it eventually (2 year old motor) rubbed and shorted to the metal of the motor. I can see the vaporized deposits along the edge.
Turns out I think thats why it blew the FET's in my 5 year old Kelly controller, which prompted me to buy an Adaptto. Then the new Adaptto ran ok for 4 days with it (must not have been fully shorted) then the vibrations started, making me think it was Adaptto's fault.
Just goes to show you when you have a controller blow up, the need to figure out why. I am glad I didn't go and buy a new Kelly just to have it blow again because the motor was still defective. I SHOULD have measured resistance from each phase to metal motor shell to diagnose the problem.

This proves that the Adaptto was hearty and robust enough to keep going with a shorted phase wire to the metal of the motor, and the Kelly was not.

Crystalyte is to blame for all my troubles! Damn you Crystalyte!

See Picture....This is what it looked like when i clipped the zip tie holding all three phase wires down, and pulled them up and looked underneath the burned one.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yep, seen this a few times myself on Crystalyte hubs.
Also be sure to check the termination point, that is what I found one time was shorting.

I've also had it where only 2 strands in one phase were shorted somewhere in the windings, so in that case I was able to remove those 2 strands from that phase wire and the termination point to stop the short.
Details here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55486&start=25#p833165

Cheers

 

[Routybouty]

Anyone know if you can use a display from a Mini-E on a Max-E controller?

 

[Ohbse]

Anyone know if you can use a display from a Mini-E on a Max-E controller?

Yes you can, but you can get some strange behaviour if they do not share the same firmware version.

Also remember that there are a number of hardware revisions of the screen with minor differences. For instance pot based throttle don't work correctly on the V5 and earlier revisions, V6> requires no external resistor.

 

[brumbrum]

Just wondering, how hot do peoples controller/mosfet temperature get when charging?

I charge at 20amps with Eaton 54v 37.5amp 1800w charger set as follows...

I usually see 53v on the adaptto charging display screen for supply voltage
Supply current 30amp (if set lower the charge current does not reach 20amp)
Charge current 20amp
Voltage drop 2v
Pack is lipo 76v nominal (20s) charged to 82v

And the controller goes up to 50*C / 120F by time the first cell gets to its target voltage. Seems quite hot, no?

Is there a way i can adjust the relationship between the supply current/charge current/voltage drop to get a lower temp? Or is this temperature normal?

Thanks

 

[Ohbse]

Just wondering, how hot do peoples controller/mosfet temperature get when charging?

I charge at 20amps with Eaton 54v 37.5amp 1800w charger set as follows...

I usually see 53v on the adaptto charging display screen for supply voltage
Supply current 30amp (if set lower the charge current does not reach 20amp)
Charge current 20amp
Voltage drop 2v
Pack is lipo 76v nominal (20s) charged to 82v

And the controller goes up to 50*C / 120F by time the first cell gets to its target voltage. Seems quite hot, no?

Is there a way i can adjust the relationship between the supply current/charge current/voltage drop to get a lower temp? Or is this temperature normal?

Temperature sounds normal. My mini-e used to get pretty toasty when charging at 1800w, then I stuck a big heatsink on the side and now it gets merely warm. 50c is nothing to worry about, i would do something about it if you were hitting 65c for any length of time. Even a desk fan aimed in the direction of the controller while its charging will have a really substantial impact.

 

[Hyena]

I haven't set up an adaptto with a small battery before, but I just went to program one with a 10ah battery and it won't go less than 13.2ah. Not using the adappto BMS, just the controller. It let me enter the correct watthrs for the pack but the ah would not go low enough. Does the battery capacity gauge go off the Ah or whr ? It's going on a bike for a noob who will only look at the battery gauge / % capacity rather than the actual number. If it goes off the watthours I guess technically it should be accurate, but it is a little annoying. It's a new midi so presumably has pretty late model firmware. Anyone had this issue before ?
(apologies if this has been mentioned, you'll excuse me for not combing back through the whole thread!)

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hey Jay,

I don't' have an answer for you, but I'm curious what the Midi-E set you back all up?
I'm looking at getting one for that Chrome Flux Alpha frame.

Cheers

 

[Hyena]

aaah, you ended up with the chrome one
I really like that colour but it wasn't practical for me to keep to demo and use for ongoing photos when I wasn't able to supply them in that colour.

I got the controller from Allex so whatever it is on his site at the current AUD exchange rate. I think our dollar is slightly higher now than it was a month ago so it should be marginally cheaper for you.

 

[mudale222]

hi huys,
have max-e, in the diagram of the hall sensor it's have 7 pins, in my adapter it's have 6 pins and in the controller also 6..
anyone have the diagram for that new 6 pins?
thx

 

[brumbrum]

hi huys,
have max-e, in the diagram of the hall sensor it's have 7 pins, in my adapter it's have 6 pins and in the controller also 6..
anyone have the diagram for that new 6 pins?
thx

Here... http://adaptto.com/Support/ the pin layout for the hall wires is on the right in the diagram, as you can see there is a layout for both 7 pin and 6 pin connectors depending on which one you got with your kit

 

[DasDouble]

Hey guys,

I have now mounted my PAS from Vector. But sh*t isn´t doing anything.

I have installed it on the right side of the frame. The white thing of this golden sensor is in the middle, on the left side of the black bagnets which point to the left side of the axle (to the middle of the frame). I think up to here everything is mounted correct..
The red cable is connected to the 5v, the black cable to the GRD (Ground) and the green one got soldered to the signal cable of the Adaptto.

Up to here everything seems to be correct.. But still, the motor isn´t doing anything when Im trying to get some electric support when pedaling. Maybe I have to do some things on the setup?

I would really apprechiate your help.

Best regards,

Elias

 

[mudale222]

hi huys,
have max-e, in the diagram of the hall sensor it's have 7 pins, in my adapter it's have 6 pins and in the controller also 6..
anyone have the diagram for that new 6 pins?
thx

Here... http://adaptto.com/Support/ the pin layout for the hall wires is on the right in the diagram, as you can see there is a layout for both 7 pin and 6 pin connectors depending on which one you got with your kit

thx my man!!

 

[litespeed]

Ok so I'm a professional procrastinator!

I searched but didn't find my answer....it's always in the last place I look!

Finally getting my Max E wired up to my QS 205 3.5T. 2 questions,

1) will the stock thermistor work with the Adaptto? It came with one but if I don't have to mess with that, great!
2) is there a place to buy another 7 pin connector that comes with the Adappto? the motor has two sets of halls/thermistor and on the road swap sure would be nice if ever need be without having to bring the soldering iron.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Tom, you'll want this connector:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M14-7-IP...or-Cable-Plug-Socket-Butt-Type-/231983128916?

I have a question for everyone:
I recently upped the power after unlocking my firmware and so far it's great. I seem to have a problem during hard acceleration however.
When I go WOT and the ground is smooth, no issues. However when I go WOT and the ground is bumpy, I can feel the power cut momentarily as I hit and for a split second after I hit bumps.
I've tried going through every traction control setting, setting each one to minimums then maximums to see if it would stop, but no luck.

Does anyone, know is there any other settings that can cause a traction control like effect or stuttering during acceleration?

Cheers

 

[GmagNeato]

Ok so I'm a professional procrastinator!

I searched but didn't find my answer....it's always in the last place I look!

Finally getting my Max E wired up to my QS 205 3.5T. 2 questions,

1) will the stock thermistor work with the Adaptto? It came with one but if I don't have to mess with that, great!

Thanks,

Tom

Yes the stock thermistor works. I believe its the KTY83, but double check the QS thread.

 

[litespeed]

Thanks to both of you for the help....much appreciated!

Tom

 

[Merlin]

new "Problem".

or, how does your throttle ramp look?

i cant hold speed like 5kph, because if i twist the throttle absolutley minimal controller gives me 120/140w of power.
from 0 to 120/140w. so you cant start really smooth. it is always a little kick.

i made a video/photo where you can see it + how my throttle ramp looks.
with this ramp it is normal to me that it starts at 120/140w from zero. because it is some millimeter above the bottom.

[youtube]1Z976Ny08N4[/youtube]

so: how does your look?

 

[Allex]

I notice you use Domino? Did you do the resistor mod on it?
Do a throttle calibration and see if you have a nice, non progressive curve.
Experiment with throttle linear modes
lastly if you did not use the resistor mode, do it.

You should be able to pump as little as 60-80W into the wheel in eco mode.

 

[Merlin]

I notice you use Domino? Yes
Did you do the resistor mod on it? No
Do a throttle calibration and see if you have a nice, non progressive curve. did it. absolutley straight.
Experiment with throttle linear modes. did it also. works as expected. but changes nothing about the little "gap" from Zero.
lastly if you did not use the resistor mode, do it. I read about it, but those people had Problems with not working throttles and this resistor to help a little current flowing.
my works fine, except of that behavior. i will try one of those china crap throttles to see if there is a difference.

You should be able to pump as little as 60-80W into the wheel in eco mode.
60-80w? is way to much for 2-3 kph driving beside someone who walks.
install it on a 15kg lightweight bike and you will drive 15kph with 60-80w.

so how does your throttle mapping look? photo?!

 

[bigbore]

Here you can see what I have in "Thr linear" with Domino and also the crappy china for reference:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650&start=225#p1121567

 

[Merlin]

thank you, but this looks like an older firmware or?
can you try riding constant 3kph without throttle on/off?

 

[bigbore]

thank you, but this looks like an older firmware or?
can you try riding constant 3kph without throttle on/off?

Yes, I've been running RC7C fw.
I guess I can ride at 3km/h also in Boost mode, but I will check this night and report back here.

 

[Merlin]

Thank you
You can check it also still standing.
What kind of wattage do you see in the display when you twist the throttle slow as you can.

If it jumps only to 20-30w it should be OK for riding very slow.

 

[bigbore]

Thank you
You can check it also still standing.
What kind of wattage do you see in the display when you twist the throttle slow as you can.

If it jumps only to 20-30w it should be OK for riding very slow.

Twisting the throttle as low as I can I have about 100-120W in boost mode.
I can ride at 3km/h very easily in eco mode and the power is 80W and I can do the same with some more difficult in boost mode, the power I need is 80W in boost too.
One of the reason why I still use old RC7 Fw is because the Domino works very good.