Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Swe]

Here ia a picture of my profiles.

 

[Wheazel]

Here ia a picture of my profiles.

You could check my cargobike thread for the motor settings I use for my leafbike 1500w motor.
Dunno if it will help you right now, but might be helpful when you solve the initial problem.

Is the adaptto display showing 10km/h when it limits the speed?

 

[Swe]

Thanks will check your settings later.
Yes it is the display value that says 10-12km/h and that value feels correct.

I have only tested a few times but I think the watts even increase a little bit (50W?) when a try pedeal but feel resistance from motor.
This is the speed I have on the final part of auto calibration. Does that sound correct or should the speed at the end be like 100% of max speed?
Maybe I will open up the motor and check a little... But can only check more next week. But any suggestions are welcome anyway.

 

[Wheazel]

Thanks will check your settings later.
Yes it is the display value that says 10-12km/h and that value feels correct.

I have only tested a few times but I think the watts even increase a little bit (50W?) when a try pedeal but feel resistance from motor.
This is the speed I have on the final part of auto calibration. Does that sound correct or should the speed at the end be like 100% of max speed?
Maybe I will open up the motor and check a little... But can only check more next week. But any suggestions are welcome anyway.

Normally an autodetect consists of a few stages. FIrst the controller will search for the right hall arrangement and angles.
This can make the motor stutter and then it usually starts after a second or two. Then it will run on pretty low throttle and tune the angle correction.
This can take a while and you can see the angle correction be adjusted. It will overshoot the optimum settings and then go back alittle usually.
After that it will spin up the wheel much faster and do the ind timing setting. This is usually faster than the angle correction part.
This is how an autodetect looks like taken from my memory.

My experience is that an autodetect will giva a usable setup, but not the most efficient one.

 

[Quokka]

Guys, i need some help from an adaptto guru. I have a QS205 and MaxE with a 20s 12p battery. The innitial set up went fine, did the autodetect and it went fine. After a few rides my "normal" power profile stopped working- eco and boost were fine. I would twist the domino throttle and it was dead. The other profiles were fine. I did a system reset and new autodetect and now all three profiles work again. But now the power seems a lot lower than before. Can someone tell me if the angle/ timing is now on the beers?

Other issue is weird as well... I have a brand new eaton 1800watt psu and the charge current is no where near 1800 watts. I have set the charge input and output to 37.5 amps. Have i done something wrong?

One last thing, at ovs greater than 2 i get a bump feeling from the motor when i back off, is this normal? I have backed it down to 2 and there is no bump.

Quokka I believe this is the QS205 V3 extra correct? If so they have the KTY83 temp sensor installed. I noticed you have the KTY81 selected.. This may affect temp calibration and performance. That is strange rgd losing the normal mode. Haven't seen that one before. Also, if you are running the V3 Extra, your angle correction seems way off. For instance, although we may have different turn count motors, mine seems happy in the +2 to +4 range. Try adjusting manually with your wheel up and see how she goes. Are you running Active Regen? This is what the PWR timing2 is for. Regarding the bump - do you have Throttle mode in Traction Settings set to SPEED or TORQ? I've found that setting this to TORQ solved a lot of those type issues for me. Let us know if you make any progress!

Gmag, you were right. The angle and pwr were off. Did the manual tune as you suggested and pumped the angle up to 0.2, ran way smoother and quieter. Also tweaked the pwr up to 2. The result in boost mode makes me wish my but was a suction cup so I could hang on harder

 

[Offroader]

Quokka, when you were having that charging issue did you increase your power supply drop value? You didn't mention if you did, but if you left this on default this will cause your charge rate to be really low as I have learned.

 

[Quokka]

No offroader, i set the charge amps, in and out. I have another new 30a coil that i am in the process of swapping over. Should have used it start with.

 

[GmagNeato]

Gmag, you were right. The angle and pwr were off. Did the manual tune as you suggested and pumped the angle up to 0.2, ran way smoother and quieter. Also tweaked the pwr up to 2. The result in boost mode makes me wish my but was a suction cup so I could hang on harder

Awesome! What about the "bump" with OVS.. Has that cleared up?

 

[Quokka]

Bump gone as well!

 

[Hyena]

Has anyone mounted their charging coil to the bike permanently ?
I'm in the process of building up my FLX alpha and would prefer to have the coil tuck away mounted inside the frame. Everything else is tidy and concealed so I'd like to keep charging the same.
Any issue with leaving the coil connected when not in use ?

 

[Merlin]

I could say rtfm
But.. No.. Attached can damage your controller and BTW it doesn't work...
In this topic 1 or 2 did it and motor doesn't run without dropouts...

Site 1 manual...

Using coil attached while using.... Strongly prohibited

 

[Hyena]

haha I did actually read the manual - must have missed that bit because I was skimming through too quickly!
OK bummer, messy coil it is then. I could make a fet switch to leave it connected but switched off but I'm not THAT enthused.

 

[notger]

haha I did actually read the manual - must have missed that bit because I was skimming through too quickly!
OK bummer, messy coil it is then. I could make a fet switch to leave it connected but switched off but I'm not THAT enthused.

Hi,

i do have the charging coil connected "permanently" in my bike.
the mosfet idea is useless, just search for speakon in this thread.

speakon is a plug type with 20-40 Amps max and 4 Pins.
you can wire it like that
- PSU +
- PSU -
- Bridge from Coil to phase
- Bridege From Coil to Phase

so everytime you plug in the Speakon you connect the coil to the phase and the charge will start.
If you unplug it, also the coil is cut from the Phase and you are ready to ride

Work s Perfect.

Notger

 

[madin88]

so everytime you plug in the Speakon you connect the coil to the phase and the charge will start.
If you unplug it, also the coil is cut from the Phase and you are ready to ride

Work s Perfect.

Notger

nice idea^^
however please keep in mind that it is only good for about 15A true continuous PSU current.

 

[Hyena]

Cool, hadn't thought of doing it that way. I have a speakon here that planned to use for this, only I was going to double up the pins to better handle the current.
I assume you have the current limited more to the 20A end of things ? (edit: beaten by maddin re: current rating of the connector)

 

[notger]

Cool, hadn't thought of doing it that way. I have a speakon here that planned to use for this, only I was going to double up the pins to better handle the current.
I assume you have the current limited more to the 20A end of things ? (edit: beaten by maddin re: current rating of the connector)

Right now I'm anyway limited by my 700Watt PSU, wich is actually enough for me.

There would also be a 8Pin Speakon, slightly bigger than the 4pin one.
also rated to 40 Amps (20 Real Maps)? so this 8pin Speakon might handle 40 real Amps.

or you use a totally different and higher rated Plug like a "doubled XT-90 "for example

Notger

 

[GmagNeato]

haha I did actually read the manual - must have missed that bit because I was skimming through too quickly!
OK bummer, messy coil it is then. I could make a fet switch to leave it connected but switched off but I'm not THAT enthused.

Hi,

i do have the charging coil connected "permanently" in my bike.
the mosfet idea is useless, just search for speakon in this thread.

speakon is a plug type with 20-40 Amps max and 4 Pins.
you can wire it like that
- PSU +
- PSU -
- Bridge from Coil to phase
- Bridege From Coil to Phase

so everytime you plug in the Speakon you connect the coil to the phase and the charge will start.
If you unplug it, also the coil is cut from the Phase and you are ready to ride

Work s Perfect.

Notger

I've been torn on whether or not to do this. On one hand the coil is contained neatly in the frame and the charging apparatus is simplified, but on the other hand the charging amps capability is cut in half and there's more heat generated in the frame when charging (coil would be very close to my BMS as well) and it does get pretty warm at 15amps. I think that anywhere/anytime you can make reductions in heat it increases overall longevity and reliability in the system. So for now anyway I'm thinking it's worth it to deal with a somewhat more cumbersome charging setup to be on the safe side. A higher rated connector would increase the current handling capability, but further increase heat in the frame from the coil while simultaneously charging the batteries at a higher C rating and therefore a higher temp there. I really liked the format and robustness of the Neutrik speakon and the waterproof jack mount. Neutrik makes very high quality connectors.

Edit: to say that I'm sure there are ways to install the coil so that it is somewhat thermally insulated from the rest of the system. And I know there are others who are set up with the coil onboard and haven't had any issues at all. But when it comes to overall longevity, reliability, battery life etc, it's hard to determine.

 

[Mammalian04]

Cool, hadn't thought of doing it that way. I have a speakon here that planned to use for this, only I was going to double up the pins to better handle the current.
I assume you have the current limited more to the 20A end of things ? (edit: beaten by maddin re: current rating of the connector)

Yes Jay, get the 8 port Neutrik. Then parallel 2 sets for the positive and negative, then parallel the other two for the phase loop. I take an 8 gauge wire, strip it back, split the strands into 2 groups, heat shrink each group of strands, heat shrink over both strands, crimp on female spade connectors (8 total) and trim the plastic protectors of spades just slightly to fit, plug it all up (make sure you draw a diagram of how you wired it for future reference), hot glue the crap out of EVERYTHING so nothing is going to move at all, and finally solder on xt150 for the other ends of wire. Repeat the mirror image for the charge connector.

It makes things super easy. Roll up, plug PS into wall, plug PS into bike, charging starts automatically, walk away (but not too far).

 

[Hyena]

Yes Jay, get the 8 port Neutrik.

Sweet, I didn't realise there was an 8 port. I shall consult the great oracle of search engines now.
Do you run the eaton ? If so does it take the full power with the 30a coil ?

 

[gensem]

I finally got my QS273 4kw 16.8kv running. Im using a MAX-e but its cutting power like crazy. Anything over 200a phase or PWR timing over +0.51 gets in protected mode even at low speed partial throttle. If I keep mild settings im able to get to 60kmh before the power cuts but the aceleration is meh... like at 12fet infineon at best. Its my first time using an Adaptto, any ideias?

 

[brumbrum]

I finally got my QS273 4kw 16.8kv running. Im using a MAX-e but its cutting power like crazy. Anything over 200a phase or PWR timing over +0.51 gets in protected mode even at low speed partial throttle. If I keep mild settings im able to get to 60kmh before the power cuts but the aceleration is meh... like at 12fet infineon at best. Its my first time using an Adaptto, any ideias?

How many cells in series? I believe the adaptto will limit power until you are under 92v or there abouts. Other things to consider are the mosfet temps are not getting upto 65 degrees Celcius as this will cut power. I think i remember reading Doctorbass saying something about adaptto controllers not liking high kv motors, but i cannot remember why.

 

[Rovi]

Hi guys I hope you can help me!
Which controller combi is more powerful:
One Kelly KHB14601 or two 14kw E-Max controllers?
They should run one 3 phase motor or a motor with 2x 3 phase.
I want to have most powerful performance with acceleration and top speed.
I also know that both are not possible!
Kind regards
Andre

 

[gensem]

I finally got my QS273 4kw 16.8kv running. Im using a MAX-e but its cutting power like crazy. Anything over 200a phase or PWR timing over +0.51 gets in protected mode even at low speed partial throttle. If I keep mild settings im able to get to 60kmh before the power cuts but the aceleration is meh... like at 12fet infineon at best. Its my first time using an Adaptto, any ideias?

How many cells in series? I believe the adaptto will limit power until you are under 92v or there abouts. Other things to consider are the mosfet temps are not getting upto 65 degrees Celcius as this will cut power. I think i remember reading Doctorbass saying something about adaptto controllers not liking high kv motors, but i cannot remember why.

Running 20s lipo. Temps are usually under 45 degrees celcius. I ll do some more tests soon, there are a lot of parameters to mess with.

 

[Ohbse]

I finally got my QS273 4kw 16.8kv running. Im using a MAX-e but its cutting power like crazy. Anything over 200a phase or PWR timing over +0.51 gets in protected mode even at low speed partial throttle. If I keep mild settings im able to get to 60kmh before the power cuts but the aceleration is meh... like at 12fet infineon at best. Its my first time using an Adaptto, any ideias?

I found something similar with my mini-e running my 3.5T 205mm ~13kv QS. I wonder if it's something to do with hall sensor shielding. I ran the hall sensors and the phase leads separately on my Cromotor, on the QS these are bundled together and are not using shielded wire.

Could you try seperating the hall sensors and phase leads where they exit the axle and running with some air gap back to controller?

Running fast wind motor with low inductance on Adaptto seems a little tricky - the autodetect was always a pain and quite variable compared to previous 5t motor.

 

[Mammalian04]

Yes Jay, get the 8 port Neutrik.

Sweet, I didn't realise there was an 8 port. I shall consult the great oracle of search engines now.
Do you run the eaton ? If so does it take the full power with the 30a coil ?

Male Plug is NLT8FX. I have one of these for each of my chargers.
Female (mounted in Frame) is NLT8MP. I have one of these for each of my frames (still need to install a few as it is a bit time consuming).

The only problem is that I haven't found a good cover to waterproof the 8 port. Don't buy the ones that Neutrik sells. They only fit the four port.

Yes, I run an Eaton and a Meanwell. I have the 70amp coils stuffed in my frames but I am limited by my 120v 15amp AC house circuit. I back off the limit a little bit that results in about 20amp charge current to the 20s battery (so about 70-80v). If I was to do it over again, I would just get the smaller 30amp coil (but full disclosure I have not used the 30amp coil yet so I don't know how hot it gets).