Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Cowardlyduck]

I have a Mini-E with a thumb throttle and tried to activate the cruise control.

While riding (30 km/h) I press the up-button while still maintaining the speed with the throttle. Problem is, as soon as I release the throttle the cruise de-activates.
Am I doing something wrong or is my setup not working as intended?

I have this same problem. Never figured it out. I don't care too much for Cruise control though so it never bothered me that much, but it would be nice to know why it doesn't work or if I'm doing something wrong.

Cheers

 

[Swe]

what kind of PSU is it?

no matter what you setup in your controller/charge settings.
your psu will limit to what it is designed for. (if it has no protection about overload, please dont setup more then 10A)

most PSU will drop the voltage to fit the current whats printed on the case.

this is why adaptto has also a vdrop setting for your psu.
so you can squeeze out everything from your psu.

240x10 sounds like a meanwell. if so you can be happy when you see 200w =)

your formular is simple like: PSU printed 24v 10a on the case, so it will give you 240w "brutto" power.

the losses between "controller- wires- charge coil" and your psu will in the higher range. so i bet you will see 180w-200w on the display max.

Okay actually I was wrong it was only 24V 5A so not that much power... Siemens PS 307. Someone here told me you can paralell some PSU to get more amps. Will have too look that up because I can get more of those for free. But thanks think I know now what to expect in charge power.

 

[madin88]

I have this same problem. Never figured it out. I don't care too much for Cruise control though so it never bothered me that much, but it would be nice to know why it doesn't work or if I'm doing something wrong.

Cheers

Same thing here
I also cannot make the "Set Range" smart range function to get working. Any ideas for that?

 

[bowers]

I have a Mini-E with a thumb throttle and tried to activate the cruise control.

While riding (30 km/h) I press the up-button while still maintaining the speed with the throttle. Problem is, as soon as I release the throttle the cruise de-activates.
Am I doing something wrong or is my setup not working as intended?

I have this same problem. Never figured it out. I don't care too much for Cruise control though so it never bothered me that much, but it would be nice to know why it doesn't work or if I'm doing something wrong.

Cheers

Would be great to know if anyone has any luck with the cruise control? I tend to use it quite a lot on my other bike.

 

[Merlin]

iam using cruise control all time/day.

did you push the "up" button to start CC
or did you go over quick menu to start CC?

did you have "cruise" in your display while riding? if not, CC is not on.

for the "up button" guys like me....

you have to give load on your bike to activate it with the up button....

if you ride 30......accelerate quick/abit and push the up button.


once acitvated you can setup your desired speed with the up and down button to that speed you want in 1kph steps

 

[Swe]

How does it work with max phase amps? I have mini-e and it says 100A continious and 180A peak. Do I set 100A as max in profile, and it can draw peaks above that? Or if I set 180A, how will know how long I am above 100A? You dont have phase amps status on display? Only watt meter and that I can only relate to battery amps?

 

[mys_iak]

Hi guys, I am having a problem with adaptto max-e and PAS sensor. I bought both at January 2017. Both Max-E and PAS I bought from Vector.
I soldered the wires as that - 2pin red 5 V, 3 pin black GND, 4pin Green signal.

The problem is:
If is the rear wheel in the air than It's looking everything Ok. Just one pedal give to motor impulse and motor is little bit helping just for a short sequence.
But when is the wheel on the ground and I am pedalling I need to just once time push to pedal and the motor is pushing me until the maximum 25km/h. I don't need even pedalling. It's so dangerous. And it's pushing me a long time.
Also, the throttle is working quite strange. Without the connected PAS is working OK, but with It is working not linear or constant...

I tried to play with the distance between magnet and sensor but nothing changed.

In attachment are FW screen, PAS sensor which looks like my and mode screen.

Thx for help...

 

[Wheazel]

My experience is that you need an e-brake switch to disable the motor as soon as you touch the brake lever.
Very important for safety as the resolution/reaction of the pas is slow. I dont know if this can be improved upon.

 

[madin88]

My experience is that you need an e-brake switch to disable the motor as soon as you touch the brake lever.
Very important for safety as the resolution/reaction of the pas is slow. I dont know if this can be improved upon.

Adaptto doesn't have an input for e-brake lever, and if one uses variable e-brake, it won't work like you may expect (the "throttle" still works if only slight ebrake is used, so you would need to use MAXIMUM regen to disable the motor).
try it out

on the CA, the motor stops instant if you pedal backwards which is very nice if you know about that (pas with 4-wires and not only 3).
because adaptto doesn't include the direction, it will even assist if you pedal backwards. this is kind of dangerous if you push the vehicle/bike backwards -> it will go forward than

 

[Merlin]

strange behavior mysiak....

i never used an 2$ PAS from vector, but my from reinhard has also "only" 3 wires.

but it does its job. only the eco power while pedaling.
if i stop, motor stops also.

And:

reverse pedaling does not spin the motor.

 

[Philistine]

I don't know if anyone can help me with this but I am still struggling with my throttle setup on my MaxE. I have both a Magura and a Hall throttle which work perfectly on my MinE (on another bike), but when I plug them into the MaxE, I can't do autodetect (I get the throttle interrupt message). Both throttles worked perfectly on my MinE straight out of the box, but neither work on my MaxE.

Can anyone think of anything I am missing? In addition to the Magura throttle that works on my MinE, I have also got a brand new Magura, and soldered it with the Brown Magura to the Blue Adaptto wire, and the Blue Magura wire to the brown Adaptto wire, and black to black, putting a 100 ohm resistor on both the 5v and the Ground. All of these throttles have the same result "throttle interrupt" on autodetect. I can ride the bike in a shuddering fashion (as it hasn't run autodetect yet), but I can't get any of them to work with autodetect. I have tried calibrating the limits. If I try to calibrate the progression I get the "too fast!" message.

Any thoughts or suggestions? It is a 100 ohm resistor right? And I put one on the ground and one on the 5v. Do I have the wrong type of resistor? What should the wattage on the resistor be?

I am tearing my hair out getting this to work. I don't understand why the MinE worked straight out of the box on all these throttles. I have also tried a system reset and that has done nothing. I am hoping there is something I am overlooking.

EDIT: OK, so now I am totally baffled (but happy), I managed to get it to run the autodetect successfully, but the total mystery is that in my frustration I got an old Magura, which is wired with the colours of the Magura matching the Adaptto (ie blue to blue and brown to brown), and with no resistors at all. By twisting the throttle only halfway, I was able to get it to complete an autodetect, and now it works. I don't question the mercy of the ebike gods when they give it....

 

[mys_iak]

strange behavior mysiak....

i never used an 2$ PAS from vector, but my from reinhard has also "only" 3 wires.

but it does its job. only the eco power while pedaling.
if i stop, motor stops also.

And:

reverse pedaling does not spin the motor.

Right now I ordered a new one PAS from Reinhard, I hope it will work.

 

[Wheazel]

My experience is that you need an e-brake switch to disable the motor as soon as you touch the brake lever.
Very important for safety as the resolution/reaction of the pas is slow. I dont know if this can be improved upon.

Adaptto doesn't have an input for e-brake lever, and if one uses variable e-brake, it won't work like you may expect (the "throttle" still works if only slight ebrake is used, so you would need to use MAXIMUM regen to disable the motor).
try it out

on the CA, the motor stops instant if you pedal backwards which is very nice if you know about that (pas with 4-wires and not only 3).
because adaptto doesn't include the direction, it will even assist if you pedal backwards. this is kind of dangerous if you push the vehicle/bike backwards -> it will go forward than

Hmm that's interesting (and bad) if the throttle doesn't cut when you use hall brake until at max brake.
I have a reed switch brake setup now which is on/off, and I have the soft engage setting on and a value that gives good enough brake for most situations.
I have been planning to replace the reed switch for a hall sensor, but if this is the case, I will not do that.
Shitty functionality and very clear that the adaptto was not intended to have PAS.

Hopefully they expand these features with a new generation controllers.

 

[madin88]

strange behavior mysiak....

i never used an 2$ PAS from vector, but my from reinhard has also "only" 3 wires.

but it does its job. only the eco power while pedaling.
if i stop, motor stops also.

And:

reverse pedaling does not spin the motor.

PAS works only in ECO mode instead of the throttle (throttle doesn't work here).
how is it with yours (referring to controllers with rc9g4 firmware)

Can you confirm that the PAS Sensor from reinhard doesn't put out a signal if you pedal backwards?
Because normally, a 3-wire PAS just put out a signal if a magnet passes the sensor (north south north south...), no matter in what direction it rotates, and Adaptto than applies throttle if the signal alternates. thats how it works.

Whereas a 4-wire PAS has sin/cos signal where the direction can be read out.

 

[Merlin]

I don't know what pas you had before but all my pas had only 3 wires and no matter which controller or cycle analyst it was...
Back pedal never made the motor spin.
Not even my first "elekteofahrrad einfach" billig bafang crap kit

My throttle works in Eco mode... I can ride with throttle and pas maybe you have the "eu firmware" installed?

For my "pseudo legal" stuff I have a tiny small jumper that disconnects 5v from throttle.
So no matter which mode is selected throttle never works. Only pas.

But to answer the question...

Yes the pas from Reinhard worked well in all my bikes + no reverse pedaling starts motor.

 

[ziltoid81]

Adaptto doesn't have an input for e-brake lever, and if one uses variable e-brake, it won't work like you may expect (the "throttle" still works if only slight ebrake is used, so you would need to use MAXIMUM regen to disable the motor).
try it out

Mine does it different.
Any slight regen does instantly cut off the throttle........

 

[DasDouble]

Mine does it different.
Any slight regen does instantly cut off the throttle........

Same. But my throttle also gets cut off in eco mode when I have applyed the pas. Weird.. I have contacted Vector once because my pas had some troubles with the pas from the picture above and they sent me another one because they said the I have got is "too clever"
this is mine now. But also not working. Maybe I have accidently shorten the signals once? Could that be possible?

PS: I have got some holes inside the rotor of the pas for unknown reason..

 

[Zerk]

Can someone give me a little insight as to where to proceed next;

I have a Max-E and Display plus an Enduro Frame that needs a battery built. Something 72v+ and 30+ AH configured and wired, ready to plug and play with my QS 3000 V3 3.5T.

I'm wondering if it's best to source to something within the domestic United States or have the controller shipped overseas and have it built there. I'm really unsure where to go from here because battery building and motor connecting are far from my working mechanical ability. It seems I've built myself into a little sort of hole here and need figuring around.

Thanks much.

 

[Quokka]

Have you hit up okashira? He builds nice packs in the us.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=67661

 

[9lives]

Hi all,

Can I ask the collective wisdom of the forum if anyone has any issues with intermitant power losses with their adaptto's? Its a little strange but my max-e (its an early model) paired with the MXUS has recently started to make a strange grinding noise accompanied with power loss at high throttle settings. Bizarre but to ride it feels like a clutch slipping at the upper end of the acceleration curve. Only happens on hard acceleration, otherwise runs fine. I thought it may have been the MXUS but I pulled it apart and everything was fine. Not getting any error message at all on controller and the halls appear to be working fine on the diagnostic screen so am wondering if I have a FET on the way out. You can provoke this when the controller is cold but it seems to be worse when the controller/hub is warm.

Anyone else had similar issues?

Jason

 

[Zerk]

Have you hit up okashira? He builds nice packs in the us.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=67661

I have just now. There are so many choices/options to chose from that it's hard to narrow down who exactly is the best option.

 

[Luge_a_foin]

Hi happy users of addapto!
I’m also the happy daily user of a mini-e addapto for now 3 years to go to work. I have made a battery (20S5P) 6 months ago which used to work also perfectly thanks to the very good information I’ve found on this forum. Thanks again everyone for that. But I’ve now experienced the following issue 1 week ago for which I would need your help if possible:
-after a charge every cell was balanced excepted one which was lower (25mV) cf. picture below (for the second time with 65mV). Usually the gap is only less than 8mV possibly 2mV.

-But when I did use the bike 10mns later this cell was higher than the others (30mV) and above the maximum charging Voltage
When using the bike, the Voltage gap remained constant even when pushing the throttle. And the following charge was OK but the failed cell has needed to be balanced for a while.
This makes me think that the cell works correctly as its behaviour during charge and discharge and its internal resistance seems OK. So my personal hypothesis is that there was an issue with the cell voltage measurement which remained wrongly fixed. So every cell went up during charge but only the others were balanced. This could explain why the voltage was lower for this cell at the end of the balancing and but higher than the target when using the bike after that. I have to say that my battery is sealed with silicone and cells are compressed by the case to make the connection. So the troubleshooting is not so easy as it takes me quite a long time to open and close the case to access everything. The other issue is I have to use it to go to work.
I do suspect either a bad connection issue or a problem with the BMS (SW or HW?) but I’m not sure this could explain this behaviour.

After that everything went fine again for one week but I experienced the same issue this morning with a bigger voltage gap (65mV) which changes quickly to 150mV. This gap remains quite constant during bike use but the measurement seems less stable than the other cells.

Here are my questions:
-Did anyone experienced the same issue or would have any hypothesis?
My other question related to the troubleshooting is:
-The failed cell is the 4/20. Is it possible to renumber the board (7,1,2,3,4,5,6) and not to use anymore the 1st board (the 7 after the previous renumbering) as I only use 5 boards for my 20S. It seems to be possible when reading the manual but I did not figure how when using the menu (cf. picture below), I use the buttons but nothing happen. If the issue comes from this particular board this would solve this issue.

Thanks in advance.
Jerome

 

[ridethelightning]

yes. iv had this scenario happen.

i noticed it when the bms cut out much too early on a ride, and it was cause some cell under load was sagging below the set lvc.
the difference was 0.175v for example, which would fluctuate very quickly back to the more acceptable 0.054v id normally see during a ride with that pack.

i noticed it would suddenly change when i gave my battery compartment a stout kick :wink:

so it was indeed a loose wire connection, i believe at the cheap-ass jst plug on the bms board(confirming my good judgement to remove them on my later builds and solder the balance wires direct to the board pads..)

it got me thinking too though, that that cell with the bad connection may have had a different "experience"during its charge cycles because of it and that may also now contribute to its slight inability to stay in balance, even after the connection was fixed.

 

[Luge_a_foin]

yes. iv had this scenario happen.

i noticed it when the bms cut out much too early on a ride, and it was cause some cell under load was sagging below the set lvc.
the difference was 0.175v for example, which would fluctuate very quickly back to the more acceptable 0.054v id normally see during a ride with that pack.

i noticed it would suddenly change when i gave my battery compartment a stout kick :wink:

so it was indeed a loose wire connection, i believe at the cheap-ass jst plug on the bms board(confirming my good judgement to remove them on my later builds and solder the balance wires direct to the board pads..)

it got me thinking too though, that that cell with the bad connection may have had a different "experience"during its charge cycles because of it and that may also now contribute to its slight inability to stay in balance, even after the connection was fixed.

Thanks ridethelightning, that was one my hypothesis, I will try to have a look to this specific point this WE. Possibly this is not so easy as it is random: back OK yesterday and failed again today.
And indeed as soon as I've seen the failure I've also tried the " stout kick" :wink: just to check if it was a loose connection but nothing happened, maybe it is not yet loosed enough.
And maybe you're anyway right with the JST, I should remove them. Have you just unsoldered the JST from the board?

 

[Luge_a_foin]

According to this russian forum (thanks to google translation) I'm not the only one to have this issue. I will go on reading to see if there are any formal conclusion:
http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=15269.396#topmsg