Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Willow]

Thats a bugger RTL

 

[snejky]

Is it possible to correctly wire up headlight dc-dc converter with adaptto? I mean start light with ignition and measure consumption by adaptto. Thanks!

 

[SUNDRIVE]

This will be very obvious to someone else, but its got me stumped.

Got the !Halls! error cut out coming up intermittently, associated with rough terrain and/or high current. Have read back through thread re EMF leakage. Motor has two sets of Hall wires incl Temp sensor, so I want to swap over, but here is the dilemma; on the frirst set of wires I originally used, the Halls worked fine but Temp sensor did not work, so I I swapped over the connector to the second wire set and it has worked ok for months up till this recent !Halls! issue. So now I want to swap to the other halls but keep the Temp sensor wire(s) from the second wire set, so which +5V and Grnd wires do I use? Can I simply just cut and swap over the three coloured Hall wires with those from the second set, but then they may not receive the +5V ???
Have not got a wiring diagram for the motor, not exactly a MXUS motor, got it through Hyena, nice fat phase wires and Axle.

Thanks guys.

 

[miunchy]

Is it possible to correctly wire up headlight dc-dc converter with adaptto? I mean start light with ignition and measure consumption by adaptto. Thanks!

If you want your adaptto controller to measure consumption of your external dc/dc you need to connect negative wire of your dc/dc to black charging wire(- of charging coil) of your controller and positive wire of dc/dc to common plus.

 

[spektrolyte]

Hi,

On the previous page I mentioned a problem with my Max-E that happened while charging. Well I found the 3 positive FETs on the charging phase had all shorted so I replaced those but it still doesn't work.

I thought it might have been a BMS problem so I removed the BMS from the system too. Now when I try the autodetect I get "Halls error 1" when connecting either of the two sets of Hall sensors in the Cromotor. I think its unlikely that all the Halls have failed since only one set was in the circuit when the fault happened.

The motor runs but it cogs badly yet there is nothing wrong with the wiring anywhere and all the FETs are ok. Also the computer behaves strangely. If I put it into charge mode it will not come out by pressing the down button. I have to go into the menu and disable charging. This thing really isn't happy! I spent a lot of money on the bike, it failed after the second ride and now I am stuck with an unknown technical problem to solve while the Summer is in full swing and all I want to do is ride

Any ideas?

 

[litespeed]

Send it in for repair. Sucks but that is going to be the fastest for the strange behavior your having.....specially if you changed FET's then other things could have happened from that???

Tom

 

[spektrolyte]

Yeah, I'm trying to diagnose those other things. FETs don't just fail on their own, but I need to isolate it down to one particular component. I think changing all the sensors in the motor might be a better next step if nobody can shed any light on the fault. Losing another month and paying for return shipping to Russia only to find out it's not the controller unit is not a very compelling option.

 

[icherouveim]

This will be very obvious to someone else, but its got me stumped.

Got the !Halls! error cut out coming up intermittently, associated with rough terrain and/or high current. Have read back through thread re EMF leakage. Motor has two sets of Hall wires incl Temp sensor, so I want to swap over, but here is the dilemma; on the frirst set of wires I originally used, the Halls worked fine but Temp sensor did not work, so I I swapped over the connector to the second wire set and it has worked ok for months up till this recent !Halls! issue. So now I want to swap to the other halls but keep the Temp sensor wire(s) from the second wire set, so which +5V and Grnd wires do I use? Can I simply just cut and swap over the three coloured Hall wires with those from the second set, but then they may not receive the +5V ???
Have not got a wiring diagram for the motor, not exactly a MXUS motor, got it through Hyena, nice fat phase wires and Axle.

Thanks guys.

Good morning,

You can use the other set of halls sensors you have no problem and if you want to keep the thermal sensor you already use just connect the black wire to the ground and the white wire to the signal.

After this you have to do auto-detect again, be careful it doesn't always work well with MXUS motors yesterday I had to do auto-detect multiple times and to change the sequence of the phase wires in order to have positive results without gr gr gr noises from the motor.

Try this to investigate if the problem comes from the motor or controller.

Have you tried to re-flash the firmware and to reset the controller ?

 

[SUNDRIVE]

Thanks icherouveim, I wanted to be careful not to damage the good Halls, or make the Adaptto go bang.

This problem occurred initially a few weeks ago after landing heavily from a small jump, but it was initially very intermittent. I subsequently had the wheel rebuilt due to breaking the spaghetti like spokes that came with it, and while it was being rebuilt I used a spare motor, which ran ok. The problem only occurred again when I re-fitted the rebuilt original wheel/motor, and has got progressively worse, so I am pretty sure it is the motor, but you never can tell! So at this stage I do not think I will need to re-flash the firmware, have never done that on the two adapttos we have, sounds like another can of Pandora's worms to me!

 

[Hyena]

Sundrive, sounds like you may have jarred a hall loose from it's slot from the impact. Or a wire has come loose. I've seen it before when you get a motor hot and then give it a whack. I've also seen them where they get so hot the solder on the halls melts and then the impact throws the puddle from the joint (leaving little balls of solder inside the motor) When this happens you're left with only the heatshrink holding the wire to the leg of the hall which results in intermittent or no signal. Sometimes it works on the bench while troubleshooting but as soon as you get it on the road over bumps the signal cuts out.
Give the other set of halls a try, though the downside is if you've baked the motor the second set may be unhappy too.

Oh, and there's only one temp sensor so you just parallel those wires from which ever set of halls you want to use. You need to swap over all 5 wires though, not just the hall colours. Each hall sensor has 3 wires on it and while the negative and positive source is parallelled to each sensor you can't use the alternate +ve and -ve as they're on the other side of the motor and not connected

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yeah, that's why it's better IMO to use high temp ~240C solder in the motor...although I generally use that stuff everywhere anyway.

Cheers

 

[SUNDRIVE]

I've also seen them where they get so hot the solder on the halls melts and then the impact throws the puddle from the joint (leaving little balls of solder inside the motor)

Oh, you mean like some guy racing one of these motors up at the Hunter Valley till it hit 200 degrees C ?

Nah, we (my boyo and I) learned an expensive lesson with our first Fighter Crystalite motor and high stall currents. This mutant Mxus motor has on maybe three occasions just nudged 120deg C on the Adaptto display, so I doubt I've cooked anything.

Thanks for advice on sensor wires Jay, if there is only one temp sensor the first wire set I tried must have had a fault in TS wires because the TS has worked fine on the second set.

 

[Hyena]

Oh, you mean like some guy racing one of these motors up at the Hunter Valley till it hit 200 degrees C ?

I do these things in the name of science, so you guys don't have to find out the answers the hard way

This mutant Mxus motor has on maybe three occasions just nudged 120deg C on the Adaptto display, so I doubt I've cooked anything.

Ah ok that's fine then, I misread your post an assumed it'd been toasty.

If there is only one temp sensor the first wire set I tried must have had a fault in TS wires because the TS has worked fine on the second set.

No fault as such, it's just that because there's only one actual sensor fitted it's only connected to one of the plugs. If I had realised up front I would have specified that either an independent second sensor be added or they were paralleled internally, but you know the Chinese and their surprise cost cutting measures...

 

[OV_]

Hey gang hope all is well.

It's been quite a while since I was on. I've put almost 3000 miles on my bike with no real issues to speak of.. until now.

I got caught in a pretty bad rain shower yesterday on the way to work. Had no choice but to press on and try to make it there. After a couple of miles, the motor brought me to a shuddering stop. The screen displays "Protect" when I attempt to apply throttle, and nothing happens. From that point on, the wheel drags constantly as if slight regen is applied , (heavy cogging). It does this even when I turn the controller off. Only if I disconnect one of the phase wires does the cogging stop and the motor turn freely.

Today I opened everything up except the motor, to make sure all was dry and check connections etc. I can't detect any issues in the wiring. The halls appear to be working and moving in sequence on the display H1-H6. I tried a System Reset and then an autodetect. After a few moments, I'm getting Halls e2 error message and it stops. Also, if I attempt to charge the bike through the coil, it doesn't detect a voltage and won't charge. Anyone run across similar symptoms/issues and/or have an idea what could be wrong? What else could I test to try and determine if it's a controller or motor issue? I only have a few months left on the warranty, so if it's the controller I'll need to get it sent out asap.

Greatly appreciate any help you could offer!

I have same problem: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=4325#p1285676

I've contacted Adaptto via their web form two times first time 3 weeks ago and havn't got any answers :/

If u look at their sales thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=58190&start=1450 it looks pretty dead allso at their forntpage u can see Interbike 2015 ad. So the site has been updated 2015 last time?

Great urge to go for ride so I orderd this: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=85156 It doesn't have adapttos monitor, but there's wireless programming and they are working to have wireless dashboard "Upgrade of the hardware to enable dashboard functionality is possible and is not that hard. With some basic soldering skills, anyone can do it. I am also considering using the CA connector thar is already present on many controllers to make it fully plug and play. I may offer hardware upgrades to already sold controllers. "

Still if there's way to get Max-e working would be very nice cause it's awsome controller. But don't have all summer to wait for it...

Allso Qulbix is/was OEM distrubtor: http://adaptto.com/Services-for-OEM/ but they don't have Adaptto controllers anymore? https://qulbix.com/qulbix-products/diy/controllers

pretty much something went wrong with the phase wires, either a short on the motor or pcb on the controller. better fix and TEST the motor 100% before connecting to the adaptto again.
if you are very very lucky, fix the short on motor might be ok. otherwise a trip to Russia.

Took a while... Tested it with another motor in SELSS and it's a still no go. It tries to do something clearly at first when u reboot max-e. I can hear very faint noise from motor before it says Protect. Didn't notice it before but now I can hear it with both motors.

 

[GmagNeato]

Ok guys. So after a lot of consideration, I've decided to attempt to repair my Max-E myself. I know, I know. Just send it back to Adaptto for repair.. Don't waste your time... You'll put your eye out.. etc, etc. Well, maybe so.

But, there are several reasons why this isn't the best option IMO.

Adaptto is non-responsive. If I ship it to them for repair, I am taking a gamble of never getting it back at worst, and at best paying a significant amount for shipping and repair and waiting forever to get it back. Since I'm past my warranty period, I will have to pay regardless unless I am able to repair it myself. If, by the gods, I'm successful, I might save a bit of money (never a bad thing) and maybe even get to ride with it this summer (a really nice thought). And the biggest PRO: Success or failure, I will surely learn a lot along the way, and by documenting the process will hopefully provide some useful info for others who are considering this on an Adaptto or even some other controller.

So with that said, a few disclaimers. I AM NOT AN EE. I have very little knowledge when it comes to controllers and electronics in general. Basically just enough to complete 2 builds and troubleshoot common/minor problems. But there seem to be quite a few people lately with problems like mine. I am taking this on mostly as a learning experience and to create a discussion and resource for others with similar interests, intentions, and/or issues. I will post video/photos as I go. I hope many more skilled and knowledgeable than I will chime in and help out along the way.

Although it is directly related to this threads topic, it may be best for this to be in a thread of it's own, but I'll let a moderator decide on that.

Happy Friday,
G

 

[BCTECH]

to be honestly you have no choice.
especially if you have something burnt, you can't fix it with no access to parts.
Adaptto might be slow replying but they will eventually take care of you. Adaptto is the best controller in the market (when it works) , so the best solution I found is to buy an extra piece for the downtime.
Can Adaptto setup a dealer/middle man in the US that can group all dead controllers and ship together once?

 

[Altair]

The only proprietary parts in the Adaptto are the microcontroller in the display and another one in the power module.
All the other parts are standard electronic parts available at all major distributors like DigiKey, Farnell, Mouser etc...
However you must be able to identify the parts, and also be qualified/equipped to remove and replace components without damaging anything else.

Keeping a spare Adaptto is not a realistic solution, as most people cannot even afford a single one.
What Adaptto really needs to do is to set-up a North-American REPAIR center!
Sending controllers back to Russia for repair is pure madness. Any qualified tech that has been properly briefed by Adaptto should be able to repair the controllers. It's not rocket science!

Adaptto should also:
Come here regularly to answer questions
Keep us informed of developments
Reply promptly to emails
... this list can be much longer...

 

[BCTECH]

The only proprietary parts in the Adaptto are the microcontroller in the display and another one in the power module.
All the other parts are standard electronic parts available at all major distributors like DigiKey, Farnell, Mouser etc...
However you must be able to identify the parts, and also be qualified/equipped to remove and replace components without damaging anything else.

Keeping a spare Adaptto is not a realistic solution, as most people cannot even afford a single one.
What Adaptto really needs to do is to set-up a North-American REPAIR center!
Sending controllers back to Russia for repair is pure madness. Any qualified tech that has been properly briefed by Adaptto should be able to repair the controllers. It's not rocket science!

Adaptto should also:
Come here regularly to answer questions
Keep us informed of developments
Reply promptly to emails
... this list can be much longer...

what about the PCBs? for example like the phase wire board which usually where the problem is. Can't buy them.
I have been collecting small components like resistors, fets,.. time by time in case of simple repair, but once you stock up, those parts usually don't break again....
Repair center is ok but qualified tech is expensive here and might be hard to find. Having someone just handle shipping as a center point should be a minimal cost and many people are able do.

basically Adaptto has no competitor, maybe improvement is not needed until others can catch up.

 

[Altair]

Usually, PCBs don't get damaged unless you have been in a terrible crash that crushed the display, or when FETs blow spectacularly and burn traces and the board itself. In those cases, it is sure that a complete replacement of a board is necessary.
But otherwise, I can assure you that a competent tech should not have a problem troubleshooting a defective unit. Of course he must have been supplied with all the schematics and pertinent info from Adaptto.

I think that having a third party collecting defective units until there are enough to send them to Russia would only complicate and delay the repair of the units, especially the first ones to arrive in the queue.

One blatant thing that is missing however is a "Repair Request Form" that an owner would have to fill up with all the pertinent info regarding his coordinates, the serial number of his unit, the reason for return, details about the problem, specific configuration of the whole system etc... As it is now, it must not be easy for the tech there to figure out what is the problem sometimes.
There is also the problem of the middle man (Oleg) who, although he is doing his possible to relay info between customer anf tech, sometimes cannot relay all the pertinent info in a timely manner to the tech, who maybe, isn't fluent in the english language.

I'm still advocating for a repair center in america. :wink:

 

[Cresh]

xxxx

 

[ridethelightning]

I am basically novice when it comes to electronics, but i took my mini-e to an electronics engineer(my uncle ) to try to repair it.
i actually have 2 mini-e controllers that i tried to fix...

basically after opening it and discovering the trace and micro ribbon connectors were damaged from a fet blowing, we removed all the fets and components on the power board.
its quite a tricky job, but can be done with the right tools- soldering iron, solder remover.
after cleaning everything up, buying new fets to replace the old ones, sourcing new micromatch connectors etc, we found the trace was totally disintigrated in on place, and decided it was too much trouble to replace/repair it(im sure it could be done though, if you need to and were more patient)

i even tried to order a new pcb from oleg, but the price he quoted was absolutely ridiculous~100+usd, and then he decided not to even send it afterall :lol:
go figure..

so, after biting the bullet, with another(new)broken minie-e, sending it back with postage cost~100aud,+repair cost 30usd, recieved the controller back from repair only to find it now displaying ~150A continuous charge current
fw upgrade/reset did not help.

so, i admire the adventurous spirit to learn about and try to repair these controllers diy style. it may be the best way :lol:
id be very interested it find out hoe it goes..

 

[BCTECH]

Usually, PCBs don't get damaged unless you have been in a terrible crash that crushed the display, or when FETs blow spectacularly and burn traces and the board itself. In those cases, it is sure that a complete replacement of a board is necessary.
But otherwise, I can assure you that a competent tech should not have a problem troubleshooting a defective unit. Of course he must have been supplied with all the schematics and pertinent info from Adaptto.

I think that having a third party collecting defective units until there are enough to send them to Russia would only complicate and delay the repair of the units, especially the first ones to arrive in the queue.

One blatant thing that is missing however is a "Repair Request Form" that an owner would have to fill up with all the pertinent info regarding his coordinates, the serial number of his unit, the reason for return, details about the problem, specific configuration of the whole system etc... As it is now, it must not be easy for the tech there to figure out what is the problem sometimes.
There is also the problem of the middle man (Oleg) who, although he is doing his possible to relay info between customer anf tech, sometimes cannot relay all the pertinent info in a timely manner to the tech, who maybe, isn't fluent in the english language.

I'm still advocating for a repair center in america. :wink:

One little short on phase wires can cause Pcb fails, also Like cable rubbing or bike drop, Crush to damage the controller is very rare and I never seen.

From what I see high postage fee is the most concern for users, that's y I suggest batch ship. For people time is everything they can ship their own.
Repair form is good but somehow someone needs to translate English form to other language to achieve what you have mentioned.
Repair center will the best interest for users, just I don't see it coming. We can't even have a dealer here

 

[dirttorpedo]

Anyone have any experience with sending their controller back? Any idea how long repairs take or when I should expect to hear something? Mine was brand new and wouldn't power on. Never even hooked up to the bike. According to tracking mine arrived the other day, just haven't heard anything yet.

 

[Altair]

It depends, last year they were much quicker than this year, I don't know why.
eMail Oleg that your controller has been delivered. At least he will know it's there.
Apparently, it's not Oleg who goes to the post office to retrieve the package, and it's probably not the technician either.
It's not very clear how things work there.

 

[GmagNeato]

Thought I would make a video of my progress so far. Sorry for the poor quality and orientation. I made this with my phone and uploaded in standard def as HD was taking FOREVER with my crappy WIFI.

https://youtu.be/WoA0uC53djE

Just a little history: Prior to removing the controller from my bike, I tested my halls and they were all working properly. BMS was still functioning and would balance cells if activated and balance voltage set appropriately. I was however unable to charge through the coil and it would not detect the voltage from my PSU.

@spektrolyte - How did you go about removing your mosfets? On mine it's the 3 FETS on the low side that appear to be bad. When you say "charging phase", do you mean the phase that your charge coil was connected to? And you are sure its the positive (High side) bank of FETs?

Hi, On the previous page I mentioned a problem with my Max-E that happened while charging. Well I found the 3 positive FETs on the charging phase had all shorted so I replaced those but it still doesn't work...

Also, have you done a full system reset and reflashed firmware? Possibly try an older firmware?

Will post more pics/videos with progress.