Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Allex]

I sent in a few this summer.
But I think it was the last repair they were willing to do. I can check with them...

https://syqiq.tech/en

Is their new company.

 

[cleverscreenname]

Can anyone point me to the new firmware that fixes the blinking screen problem that Adappto posted about on May 31, 2016 ? I checked their website but I can't read Russian

Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

My domino worked perfectly without the resistor, calibration went fine, but Noticed a few things. First, i could not get autodetect to work the motor vibrated during first sequence and my speed jumped from normal 40kmh to 250kph. I thought it was something wrong with the controller so I swapped...

endless-sphere.com

 

[Wheazel]

Anyone know if it is possible to buy a replacement gate driver board from somewhere? After a number of years of not touching my cargobike with a broken max-e i finally got to some disassembly and troubleshooting. One of the gatedriver boards has some burnt components. Would probably be easy to fix with a new gate driver board. Mosfets seem fine as well as the motor and halls.

 

[cleverscreenname]

Well if nobody points me to the firmware, then I can't use mine, so then I could sell mine to you.

 

[Stielz]

I have 1 firmware on file, RC7b for Max-E controller if that's any use?

 

[Stielz]

There must be many blown adaptto controllers out there, just gathering dust and taking up space..
My bike is now out of action for broken display.. Would love to keep it going. Anyone out there have an adaptto display that they'd be willing to part with?

 

[cleverscreenname]

I don't know what my firmware version is, or even how to load it. I do know I bought my Max-E in May 2015. Do you need my email address?

 

[Stielz]

Attached the firmware file here.

It's showing the date modified as June 2015, so likely not much newer than your current version.

 

[cleverscreenname]

Thanks! Can you instruct me how to load it? Is there a special flashing program?

 

[Stielz]

From memory it's something like this:

1. Extract the contents of the zip file.
2. Copy the .bin file to a full size SD card.
3. Insert the SD card into the Adaptto Display card reader slot (you have to undo the screws holding together the two halfs of the plastic moldings. Then possibly undo the screws holding down the PCB. I think the card reader is on the back side of the PCB).
4. Power on the controller.
5. I Think it prompts you what to do next to load up the firmware.
6. When it's done, power off the controller, remove SD card, put it back together

 

[cleverscreenname]

Thanks for trying, but no change and since the screen is just blinking light and dark without any words, I can't select anything. I tried center button a few times, and left and right arrows, nothing. It's pretty dumb that I had to take apart the case to get to the flash slot, instead of using the usb plug they built on the side.

@Stielz, you want to buy the display?
@Wheazel, you want to buy the remaining piece?
This Max E has been used maybe 10 times (no, not very often) with a Crystalline 3582 (or something) at 30-40 mph with a Tesla 72v battery pack. Kept inside during winter, only used in summer and never been in the rain.

Can anyone recommend a replacement 72v controller? Just whatever chinese junk is on ebay? I don't know how to program so that rules out Lyen, right? I want to go cheap this time since I got burned $900 from a barely used Adaptto, must be nice to cut and run away from junk you sell...

 

[Stielz]

Yeah pretty dumb that you have to take it apart to flash firmware, and that the USB port is only for charging your phone.

If I were to buy a new controller, I'd go for a VESC based controller. I have them in my skateboard and I'm really impressed with them.
Only thing is there is quite a lot involved in setting them up, though it's done using an application on your computer or phone.

Something like this might be suitable:

VESC 75V 300A Black Anodised Non Conductive CNC housing - £375 each

Trampa Boards : Custom mountainboards, kiteboards and parts.

trampaboards.com

Or there are cheap ones like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003307454862.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2a1c29877Vurfh&algo_pvid=0e526514-9ad1-4073-929b-812afea085aa&algo_exp_id=0e526514-9ad1-4073-929b-812afea085aa-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21NZD%21242.41%21109.08%21%21%21144.87%21%21%402103225216913703392974515ea1dd%2112000025263259380%21sea%21NZ%21135248403%21&curPageLogUid=Rrz8ical24dC

 

[Stielz]

@cleverscreenname Regarding your Adaptto, it sounds like potentially your display might be faulty. Though it's possible that I might be able to repair mine at a component level by transplanting the LCD. How much would you want for it?

Cheers,
Alex

 

[cleverscreenname]

That's a great price, thanks for the ali-express link. That controller will be plug-and-play right, or do I have to run the tool first? I've got a 24" Crystalyte HS I think it's 3540? It definitely has 5 wire Halls connector, does that mean it's the 5304?

 

[Stielz]

Nope, definitely not plug-n-play. Firstly you'd have to wire everything up (you'd have to be handy with a soldering iron). Then you do have to configure it using the VESC Tool software before you can use it. So probably not the best option if you just want to get up and running with minimal effort.

 

[striker54]

Anyone with a spare display willing to sell it?

 

[cleverscreenname]

Anyone with a spare display willing to sell it?

Yes

 

[macro]

Ja

hallo, hast du das Display noch?

 

[macro]

mein max-e Controller hat sich beim Laden über den Controller mit BMS einfach ausgeschaltet. Ist dazu etwas bekannt?

 

[sahbbin]

Hi, I have built my ebike back in 2016 with an mini-e and recently changed the battery to a 24s8p lifepo4 but it seems to not draw more than 20 amps even though the cells are brand new and each cell is capable of discharging at 9amp. I have not changed the profiles but of course modified the bms settings and battery settings. I haven't done an auto calibration since the swap. Will try it today, do you have an idea why it's not drawing the usual 50-60 amps?

 

[amberwolf]

If a system doesn't draw more than a certain current, but isn't turning off when reaching that current, it means that either you have limited the current in the controller settings to that current, or you are not using the system under conditions that will draw more power than what that current x that voltage equals.

 

[jjluzuld]

Hi everyone,

I'm using an Adaptto MAX-E controller and recently switched to a 9s 60Ah Li-ion battery (Samsung SDI cells). I chose 9s because I got a good deal on the cells, and I can’t physically fit more cells into the frame — it’s a very tight setup.

My motor is a QS205 V3 3kW hub motor Vector Frame, just to let you get the full picture.

I'm facing an odd issue when charging.

Using APR48-3G charger, rated at 57.6V / 1800W, capable of delivering up to ~37A.

The issue:​

Even though MAX-E is in Charging mode and displays “Charging...” on screen, it completely ignores the configured charge current limits during the early phase of charging.

My current settings:

• Battery Current = 6.0 A
• Supply Current = 6.0 A
• Supply Vdrop = tested from 4.0V down to 0.1V

Regardless of settings, the charger pushes 30–35A into the battery when the voltage is low (around 30–35V).
Only once the battery voltage rises and gets closer to the charger output (~50V+), MAX-E finally begins respecting the current limits and tapers down correctly.

My theory:​

I suspect this behavior is due to the combination of low-voltage battery and high-power charger.
MAX-E seems to allow full current flow when the voltage delta is too large.
Previously I used a 20s (84V) battery, and this issue never occurred — likely because the battery voltage was always higer enough to the charger, and the drop never triggered this uncontrolled behaviour.

Now that I’m on 9s, the big gap between the charger and battery voltages might be outside MAX-E's control logic range.

Has anyone experienced this before?​

Particularly with low-voltage packs (9s–10s) and telecom chargers like the APR48‑3G?

Any insights or workarounds would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

 

[amberwolf]

First, I would recommend never using a charger that is higher voltage than your full-battery-charge voltage. Doing so means that if anything for any reason fails to stop charge, you will overcharge the cells and damage them, which can lead to a fire later at any time under any conditions. Or it could cause an immediate fire.

You won't know something is wrong until the fire is happening.

Regarding the present problem:

If the MAX-E is intended to be regulating the charge voltage and current, and isn't doing so, either it's outside of it's design limits / boundary conditions, and so it's behavior is undefined, or uncontrolled, or it is damaged (possibly from being outside some design limit).

I don't know what it's design limits or boundary conditions are; you'd have to check it's manual to see what those are, to see if it's an allowed condition to use such a high voltage charge source with such a low voltage pack.

Is the MAX-E designed to buck higher voltage down to a lower one while still current limiting it? Or is it only designed to boost?


9s for a 4.2v full cell would be only 37.8v, the charge source would be 57.6 - 37.8 = 19.8v higher than the battery even once it's full. So it would always be supplying full current to the battery, even once the battery is completely full.

If the BMS (or MAX-E, if there's no actual pack BMS) doesn't stop the charge, for any reason, it would continue and overcharge the pack *at that high rate*, with the damage and other things noted above.