Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Metallover]

I came home today and plugged in to charge, but I got an error "No charge voltage press down to exit".

I powered down and up again, a few times, no change. Normally I have the bike running, go into charge mode, plug in PSU, and it goes.

I did a system reset, then configured charging on the fresh settings. Still no luck, still the "No charge voltage press down to exit".

I'm working on updating my firmware now. Right now I'm on RC7b right now, just need a sacrificial SD card to bump up to latest version, v1-RC9e. I'll choose the "l" version.

Has anyone gotten this before/know how to fix it?

 

[crea2k]

I would check your PSU with a multimeter to check it is working correctly first, if thats ok check all the plugs from the psu to the coil, and coil to the controller, and double check its all plugged in right and you dont have the coil plugged in backwards etc.

 

[ridethelightning]

yes. often its easy to blame firmware bugs for things, but the reality is often that its a physical problem, dud connecion, broken wire, as creak said, or wronly set settings

 

[Metallover]

I measured 48V out of my 48V supply. When I plug it into the controller it stays at 48V. When I measure from the battery ground plug to the phase wire I measure 48V as well. I'm perplexed as to what it might be. I have continuity between battery ground and negative charge lead as well as phase wire and positive charge lead. There really aren't any more connections to check, besides inside the controller.

Thank you guys for your help! Maybe there's something I'm still missing.. I messed with the settings so much, is there one I maybe overlooked?

 

[crea2k]

I take it you have all the setting in the charge menu set right ?.

 

[crea2k]

Are you using the charge coil, or plugging it straight into the controller ?.

 

[ridethelightning]

Yes, you use the charging coil and a load instead of a PSU.

I thought about rigging up a swappable unit to run a cheap battery-powered lawnmower off my pack that I saw at a garage sale, but it's not worth incorporating that into my bike. =)

so using the dc/dc mode means the charge coil needs to be plugged into the controller.....which means you cant ride and use dc/dc at the same time...which means not so good for headlights etc..am i right?

but sounds just dandy for lawnmowing the crap out of peoples garden beds.....or mixing up coctails with a barmix

 

[crea2k]

This is what I thought I would use it for too, but when its plugged in the motor really doesn't like it one bit.

 

[ridethelightning]

perhaps in later firmware it will be possible to use while riding

 

[crea2k]

On this new firmware it has been removed from the standard firmware and is on unlocked only.

 

[madin88]

@ Metallover

flash the newest firmware and than report back.
RC7 is about one year old and at this time it was beta. ok, also the newest fw is no final version but many things had beed added and improved.

 

[ridethelightning]

@metallover
good to hear you got a couple things sorted.

i notice the BMS error signal can be perhaps caused by glitch in older versions of firmware, although, i have the old RC7b version and so far no issues with that.
i think int was mentioned here on the russian forum...http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?msg=316466


the only issue iv had so far has been that sometimes(more often lately)after starting charge for a minute or so,the charge current will ramp back down low or even off, well before the battery is full. this can be fixed by re-starting the charge(turning the psu off and on again)and its back to normal again

could be fault of my settings in the charge setup,suply v drop etc. or(less likely) the psu, so not sure if its the controller or not at this stage....

im now considering updating to the latest firmware version to get some new features, like the anti-theif,10k thermistor, updated charge screen etc etc.and hopefully to fix the glitch with the charge.
but am not 100% sure its going to work with no issues :|
anybody out there flashed the latest version and had any trouble?
any feedback much appreciated


good to see they have been working quite hard on improving it the firmware, with all the updates so far.

so looks like iv solved the puzzle of the charge current ramping down prematurly.
after setting the supply voltage drop higher(to 8or 9 volts)the problem doesnt seem to occur anymore.

on measurig the voltage of the psu DURING charging, i was astonished to see it had dropped to some 45v from the max of 52volts it puts out at no load.
(this should be actually 55volts but i just cant seem to get it to go any higher with the trim pot.)

as the battery voltage increases towards full, the battery charge current drops. im guessing this is beacause the controller cannot maintain the current to the battery when the voltage gets higher as the psu seems to be at its limits and cannot produce anymore current to match the demand.

also the efficiency would get lower as the voltage of battery increases, making charging watts drop further as more power goes to heating stuff up...

im just thinking aloud here, guessing, dont really know if this is correct.
please chime in

 

[crea2k]

I think that's what the v drop setting is for, if its a 10v drop it probably wants setting to 10v, I'm not quite sure what the effect of setting a higher voltage will be, I mean if it will be bad, Allex can probably answer that one as he can read Russian a million times better than me lol.

 

[Allex]

Yup, some PSUs drop their voltage more than others, so this is why you need to fine tune vdrop value in charge settings.
Yesterday I tried to charge my 74v battery with a Dell laptop charger, it is a 7A 19V, charge current was at 1.7Amps.

 

[crea2k]

Wow I didn't realise you could charge it with anything that small, I bet that would take a few days to charge it at that rate.

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Madin: About PAS, Sorry I do not know yet.

Hello everyone,

I have seen many questions recently regarding PAS sensor, so the answer it that it will be installed into the bottom bracket. The PAS will be implemented in the near future and we will surely provide you with the info update about it.

Im not sure if google translated it right but im sure one of the regen settings accounts for this problem, so instead of using the current for regen it instead applies current to the motor trying to put it into reverse. Im not sure if this has been added yet or if they were just talking about it, it may be in there now, but not sure without playing with it at full charge.

If I have understood you correctly, the Reverse thrust feature/active regen was already implemented in the 8th version of the firmware.

Will provide more updates soon!
All the best!

 

[sacko]

Intending to use a Magura 5k throttle with a hall sensor throttle for variable regen, anyone tried this?

..or know where I can find a suitable wiring diagram/instruction.

From the 'manual' I have a rough idea but any advice would be appreciated before I start cutting and soldering!

 

[ridethelightning]

yes. i have exactly this.

very easy to do.

connect up the 2 throttles, using the same +5v and 0 wires from the display.

there are another 2 wires from adatto display, blue and white from memory, blue is the varyable signal wire from throttle, white is the signal from regen.

i made a small plastc waterproof junction box with cable glands just infront of display(also great spot to mount a headlight)all the solder joints/heatshrink are in there.this way, the wires from throttles will end up quite short cause the display is very close, in the middle of the handlebars. :wink:

 

[sacko]

Thanks for the info.

Something like this?

 

[broke]

hay guys I used to charge my pack in 30 min with my 306B charger at 12v - 30A now Im using my bulk charger 43v -4A
can I use my dell power supply safely to charge my batt faster then my bulk charger. which would you think is best?

70a charge coil 84v 10ah lipo batts

 

[ridethelightning]

Thanks for the info.

Something like this?

View attachment 1

yes,more or less, except i think the colour combo for magura is not always the same.

as i remember with my magura,
brown=+5
blue= signal
black=0

just try a few combos, wont hurt anything
also magura is renoun for bad factory settings/calibration. sometimes the pot is loose in the casing,sometimes at the wrong position

heres a pic of the box-

 

[sacko]

That looks neat, thanks fir the info.

 

[madin88]

just try a few combos, wont hurt anything
also magura is renoun for bad factory settings/calibration. sometimes the pot is loose in the casing,sometimes at the wrong position

no no, you can hurt something. for example if +5V is connected to the wiper and the wiper is at zero Ohm => short circuit :wink:

I have swapped out my AWI 5k thumb throttle for the Magura, because recently the second one died. Its the pot which is very non durable. This is not acceptable for a 50$ throttle.
The pot in the Magura can be twisted so you can set up dead center position quite good. It is the small screw near the grip which fixes the pot. The gear wheel on the pot also can be shift a few teeth to set dead point..
If the Magura does not hold, i will try the Domino throttle, or the Adaptto when released

 

[crea2k]

Iv got the domino one, its really nice

 

[crea2k]

hay guys I used to charge my pack in 30 min with my 306B charger at 12v - 30A now Im using my bulk charger 43v -4A
can I use my dell power supply safely to charge my batt faster then my bulk charger. which would you think is best?

70a charge coil 84v 10ah lipo batts

I would probably go for the bulk charger as the voltage difference between it and your pack is less, so should get less hot, try both though and see, but I think 12v forcing its way into a higher voltage pack is going to be hard work on it