AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

pendragon8000 said:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6580
AM8mm.jpg

Do these fit all wire widths?

does shipping together with other things get cheaper or not, never bought from them. Is shipping from global aussie much different?

Wonder if I should buy things together or just buy as i need things.

John K suggested xt150 are these better? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12887
 
Do these fit all wire widths?
Yes
does shipping together with other things get cheaper or not, never bought from them. Is shipping from global aussie much different?
At check out you can see the package options and fill it to max weight by adding more stuff.
Wonder if I should buy things together or just buy as i need things.
Get some cell monitor alarms and anything that might be handy like epoxy, cable ties heat shrink etc
John K suggested xt150 are these better? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12887
That looks good. Colour coded and longer.
 
thanks pdrag,

I will buy some when I know everything I want.

Tonight had a chat with dad and then he gave me a crimping tool and some different sized plugs that I took home and put on in under 15 minutes. He is such a legend handy man. I am proud that I did the work myself because if my bike were at his mancave he would have just wanted to demonstrate and not let me do it myself. I am tempted to start buying all the tools he has so I can do stuff without his expertise. Something rewarding about it. Although he has a million tools that would be just silly to duplicate when we live in the suburb.

the andersons I thought were soldered but they werent and neither are my ones which I have no idea how long will last but fingers crossed till i get quality ones in.

took it for a test spin but Brisbane is having crazy temperature changes. tonight is cold riding unlike the day they melted which was over 35 degrees, hottest day in years they said. The ride to bomber owners place was insane. It felt like I was flying through pockets or clouds of hot air.

ps the day my bike frocked up I was doing the push the bike up a hill in shame when he drove past and asked what had happened. He was coming back from my place where he had installed a new double powerpoint where I park my bike and not only that put a mini shelf the size of the charger next to it mounted to the wall. Sometimes I hate him but sometimes man I am a lucky son.
 
Hit the turps as you do on Saturday, and decided to go up and tackle one of my favorite steepest single mtb rides.

should of padded up, but you know dutch courage.

stacked it on a nothing corner. Bike was too heavy did my knee, thank god I had jeans on and gloves. so nothing major, but would have been zero if I had padded up as I usually go.

It was just that I was going as slow as possible but bike was too heavy and slid out.

there you go frock single track for ever.

I am not doing it unless drunk again. I will not build a bike as I was planning around it. Its boring and the bike will always be too heavy.

Was cool however riding up the mountain on my ebike and then riding down and back home without screwing around with a car and a bicycle and peddling,

Just trying to say that single track is not as fun as it is with a real mountain bike.
 
full-throttle said:
John Bozi said:
Just trying to say that single track is not as fun as it is with a real mountain bike.
Very true!
You should try a mid drive instead.

I'd love to try without the whole buy before it. Nobody I know in Brisbane has one...

I think the weight at the centre and real low would be much better handling than my road bike with a big battery infront of crotch and hookworms. Still the big super fine dusty dirt I hit slowly surprised me that I couldn't navigate out of.

After I did thorough check of the bike today (worried because the handle bars went right off centre from the wheel line) I noticed the front disc brake screws were all really loose. Tightened and threadlockered now.

My lights all lost screws that held them tight too but still usable thanks to rubber rings. Pain in the bum though. I didn't plan to hit the single tracks, would have prepared properly otherwise.

Another thought is if the bike wasnt so heavy and wasnt trying so dam hard to avoid bumps and sharper rocks I would have taken the line better and wouldn't have fallen. Just dont want a puncture miles from home or even worse another broken rim.

mid drive Id probably have taken the same "safer" line and fallen.
 
Yeah seen those a while back and studied up on pit bikes. its gona be a heavy bike unless you drill holes through it. might as well start off with the warp frame which has concentric swing arm.

second hand pit bikes are so dam cheap it makes me sick when comparing mtb bikes to them for moving complexity.

try this on google:

type electric pit bike under the images option

theres so many fucken cheap bikes there to mod to more powerful and make lighter and try to make look more like a bicycle.
 
Yeah. I guess weight isn't as much issue with pit bikes.
Those motoped bikes are 48kg dry weight. I'd be fanging around on that if I could get away with it. With available technology that suits me . Pitty its a noisy gasser and has small power zone compared to electric bldc motor. I guess it would have a power output of 4kw or more. But yeah nice construction of concentric.
 
electric-dirt-bike.jpg


Mid drive would be better.

I'd rip all the plastic shit off it and put a fake cranks and pedals and chainline - would be great if they could made to work but kind of pointless.

http://image.tradett.com/images/products/FA2011725145745988uchpmoto/electric-dirt-bike.jpg
 
After adjusting the resistance to 2.1

I am now only seeing about 2150 watts max, usually sitting around 2000 once up to speed on flat I guess somewhere around 1000-1300w to keep it there.

(not as I mentioned many pages ago around 2.5) sorry for misinforming.

If my wheel diametres are correctly entered for the hookworms of about 26.5" then I am hitting 50kmh quite easily on newly bitumened roads. Sometimes 53 but never higher on flat. Keep in mind I am pretty heavy about 85kg and the whole bike is pretty heavy. So are lighter rider and battery pack and bike in general might hit 60kmh - not sure though.

If I hadn't gotten the cassette that I have now, I would make sure I got the smallest toothed possible cog and probably only 3-5 gears. they fit easier and running a front derailluer is stupid waste of space. without it the chainline for more gears at the back starts going on to much of an angle and rubs too much.

I am not 100% sure what 4065 but I think it isn't HS, I think it's HT.

The reason I got the whole kit from John K was for plug and play ability with no headaches. If I were experienced enough, I would have made sure I got a controller I could programme to various voltages. Now I am selling mine if you want it with the battery hit my signature. Otherwise I am eventually going to 18s lipo.

BTW the whole bike is for sale $4K ONO

1377327_10151990471674845_30959167_n.jpg


If I sell it I will go the greyborg warp frame with a cromotor

hope this helps the PMer. :)
 
1384158_10151998530979845_1342267012_n.jpg


more accurate widths, pic is a bit side on, and no room for bms unless on the side. batteries still need rubber padding at minimum around the side against the aluminium box that this would require.

Samd they are 38mm by 12cm so give another 2cm for padding frame box - about 14 cm - peddles should just be clearing.


Manufacturers specifications:
Normal capacity 10Ah
Normal voltage 3.2V
Max.charging current 5C(50A)
Impedance ≤10mΩ
Max.charging voltage 3.65±0.05V
Contiune discharging current 10C(100A)
Pulse discharging current 15C(150A)
End-off voltage for discharging 2.0V
Cycle life 2000 times
Operating temperature -20~60℃
Dimension φ38×H120(38120L)/H145(38120S) (mm)
Weight 300g/330g
Operating temperature (charging) 0~45℃
Operating Temperature (discharge) -20~60℃
Store temperature (one month) -20~45℃
Storage temperature (six months) -20~35℃

It's a shame about the oil thing for the shock facing forwards. with Newb we tried it reversed and upside down. Upside down almost works, just barely touching the frame. It offers more space when at the bottom. I wonder if there are air shocks that long that would fit?

With dark hard-anodized alloy body and 5-system damping, DNM Burner-RLC rear shock obtains adjustment on rebound, compression, preload, lock out and high pressure. The Eye to Eye Length 190mm, Weight 755g and Travel are respectively 160mm
 
yeah you can use the shock i got its choice. 190mm eye to eye http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/manitou-radium-expert-lock-out-2013/rp-prod57830
template_sample

i think this is the newer version. 190 or 200mm, you could use the 200mm and run lower pressure so the suspension sag sits you at the corect hight and also gives max travel.
 
pendragon8000 said:
why 7s? if you look at keplers weight weenie super comuter build he says something like : with the motor you have choose the power it can take and decide the speed you want then how many volts you need to get top speed, then get a controller with enough amps to give you the watts you need at the volts.
eg 4065 can take 10kw bursts and 2kw continuous.
65pkh at 75v so 18s=75v max
18x4110 fet lyen/infineon controller shoul be able to do 80amps minimum on that motor cos it wont want to go stupid fast so maby even 90 amps, at 75 v thats more than 6kw.
6s is good becase you can balance with bc 168 and get a bulk charger from bmsbattery.com for a fair price, plug and play.
900watt charger is $88 + postage, esy fit in back pack.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/457-alloy-shell-900w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html
alloy-shell-900w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.jpg

bc168:

Just wanted to ask emtb says the HS4065 runs reliably up to 2.5kw? Would i be assuming correct if you are running a 72-100V pack wouldn't you be easily run >2.5kw continuously? or am i interpreting this incorrectly?
ie. a battery of 62v @40A will literally after regular use burn the motor?

http://e-mtb.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66&products_id=203
 
pendragon8000 said:
yeah you can use the shock i got its choice. 190mm eye to eye http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/manitou-radium-expert-lock-out-2013/rp-prod57830
template_sample

i think this is the newer version. 190 or 200mm, you could use the 200mm and run lower pressure so the suspension sag sits you at the corect hight and also gives max travel.

I don't understand that much about suspension.

If eye to eye is 19cm how do you determine how much travel this shock will allow?

$200 is an expensive solution but even if I go lipo the triangle space will be bigger and better.

I am kind of heading in two directions at the same time. Waiting to meet up with Newb when he is not so busy to do a full order of everything. I don't want to just order a few things and then have to wait for the rest.

In the meantime as you can see I have been looking at being able to use this headway. Even if I get the lipo and new programmable controller the headways will still be usable at this voltage or they will fit my hardtail triangle better too.
 
Sorry John, I didn't see that they were 38120s. So obviously 38mm and 120mm packaged.

Might be worth knocking up a rough wooden box and seeing if you are happy with the width. Different people have different opinions on comfort over about 110mm wide.

You could also package them up and fit them to the downtube.
Have you considered an extender backpack?
 
Its a good idea about a rough box to see how I like it.

Looking at your signature again and yes I like your chopped aluminium a lot. So this is an expression of interest of sorts:

I was wondering for how much you would make something between the new greyborg concentric swing arm and what pendragon is designing. If you would.
 
John Bozi said:
pendragon8000 said:
yeah you can use the shock i got its choice. 190mm eye to eye http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/manitou-radium-expert-lock-out-2013/rp-prod57830
template_sample

i think this is the newer version. 190 or 200mm, you could use the 200mm and run lower pressure so the suspension sag sits you at the corect hight and also gives max travel.

I don't understand that much about suspension.

If eye to eye is 19cm how do you determine how much travel this shock will allow?

$200 is an expensive solution but even if I go lipo the triangle space will be bigger and better.

I am kind of heading in two directions at the same time. Waiting to meet up with Newb when he is not so busy to do a full order of everything. I don't want to just order a few things and then have to wait for the rest.

In the meantime as you can see I have been looking at being able to use this headway. Even if I get the lipo and new programmable controller the headways will still be usable at this voltage or they will fit my hardtail triangle better too.
it looks like your suspension ratio is about 2.5 to1 so the travel in the shock is 2.5 times at the wheel so with that radium shock you would have aproximately the same travel but with the advantage of adjustable spring rate by changing the air pressure in the shock.
 
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