Aprilia Enjoy

Hi Guys,

A question for you guys who have stripped these bikes down.What is the rear suspension? I cannot see any reference to it in the manual or anywhere else for that matter.I am just curious as to whether it is a good unit or not.It seems to work all right.Both of my bikes have done lots of klicks so far.

Cheers,
Tony.
 
Hi HH,

Well that explains why I haven't read about it or could see anything. I guess because I have seen a shock on some other bikes I assumed it must have something there.
Thanks HH.

Tony.
 
On a different note I recently took the genset light off and hacked it out to take a standard 4W LED downlight bulb (very cheap off ebay). It now lights up the damn street on nighttime rides.
I put the pics up on my blog - sorry for not reposting here again.
http://samdidgaf.blogspot.com/2011/08/putting-high-powered-led-bulb-into.html

And i have a heap of old mobile phone batteries - I soldered 3 up in series to power the light. Will now double or triple the power in parallel to make an auxiliary 12v battery in the left over cavity of the Aprilia's stock battery box. I can charge my phone while I ride I guess...
http://samdidgaf.blogspot.com/2011/08/lithium-batteries-for-bike-lights.html
 
I'm keen to buy it for my wife. But getting freight pickup out of Byron is hard, and the vendor won;t organise freight. Still working on options.

Hey, just a thought, anyone thought of changing from running two 8s packs in parallel, running them as 16s in series? How many 'esses' are enough in practice beyond the classical P=VI formula? I am assuming there would be more torque and less losses in the circuit beyond the motor due to lower current. Not sure if my 24V yiyun controller would like it.
 
16s is 64 volts hot of charger, so your controller better be spec'ed up for that ! ( V unlikely !)
remember, its current to gives you the torque, volts for speed, and as your controller is likely limited to 30A, i doubt you will improve acceleration much, however your speed will increase.
... but, more volts will burn your brushes out faster.
10s gives me 50+ kmhr on the flat, which is plenty fast enough for me without disc brakes or rear suspension.
PS; .. coincidence,? .. but i picked up my Aprilia from Byron ? ( its a long way up there :wink: )
 
Well I won the ebay unit. Just got to get it the 1731 km home. How many watt-hours do you think it'll need? :p
 
Should we ever meet I owe you a beer then, thanks HH.
Got him to box it for a fee, and managed to do freight thru our corporate deal and pay work back, took a lot to pull together. Just hope it gets here ok. I have enough parts on my parts bike that I guess a truck could go over the carton and i'd still fair pretty well I think.

Did some work last night on upping the battery case capacity. 99% sure I will be able to fit three seperate 5.8AH 8s batts in: two of the long ones and one of the fat ones should just fit. Photos soon.
 
LAst night I took the top lid and top half of tray case off my battery case and laid it into the chassis. Still a lot of space!
DSC_1525.jpg

I ended up cutting the whole sides out of the bottom tray, just leaving the ends, and shifted my two 'long' batteries all the way up one end. I am sure that there should be just enough room for a third turnigy 8s battery in the parallel format. So a total of two of the 'long' ones and one parallel if I do. If you cut the tray be sure to smooth the ribs/spikes left on the base of the tray, you dont want to puncture cells and "let the smoke out of them".

DSC_1530.jpg

The experiment looks good. The leftover space to the right of the pic is 170mm long inside the case. Sorry for the blurry pics. Mobile phone camera and home made cider effects my workmanship. The turnigy spec for a parallel battery is 163mm long. Should fit. I will have to be careful with wire placement. A third pack would be really nice. TBD.

DSC_1533.jpg

There is about 20mm high headspace above the packs still inside the case. Enough room for me to solder up some ghetto mobile phone cells still to drive my whoopass LED front light. And I could use the two left over contacts on the end of the battery pack to connect and charge the 3s lighting cells.
 
Yet another up an weebay. NSW again, but I think handy to Sydney.

The last one I bought should arrive today from Byron :)
 
This is a racing version and the guy is happy to box it up and take it to the courier depot. I might bid on this depending on how high it goes.So far the bidding is hopping along as the bike sounds in good working nick.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-bicycle-bike-Aprilia-Enjoy-/290611781318?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Bikes&hash=item43a9cfdec6#ht_907wt_936

Tony.
 
Lemme know if you guys ever needs spares, I have a parts bike with a good frame, motor, gearbox, fairings and other bits. No controller - who'd want one. Nor crankcase internals apart from the center shaft.

The one i bought from Byron is virtually a new bike. No action when the battery plugs in, but as I strip out all the electrics down to the motor - who cares. Bargain. Cheers.
 
Samd said:
The one i bought from Byron is virtually a new bike. No action when the battery plugs in, but as I strip out all the electrics down to the motor - who cares. Bargain. Cheers.

I would clean those silly pressure contacts on the battery to frame connection first... mine were always troublesome.
..... but then again, the controller is a major suspect too !
 
I only paid $212 - for a bike thats only a year old! It wouldnt have done more than 50km! Only one scratch on it.

I got the freight very cheap by using our corporate account and paying my work the cash back - came out about $70, and was web tracked. 4 days door to door. The guy who was selling worked for a surfboard maker - so he boxed it up a treat and threw in a hat and stickers to boot. I'm over the moon!

Gosh they are quick to convert when you are doing your second one. In 40 mins last night I stripped out the contrller, put on the thumb control, took off the electric brake switches, and got the wires ready for when the controller arrives. Another hour or two to hack out battery box, out the lipos in and fit the controller and my wife will be racing down the road with me.....
 
Strewth, what a bargain! The one on ebay at present is going to go way too high pricewise .I think I will wait for another one that is in the "not working" mode to show up
 
I agree. People must shy away from a broken one. Running ones are expensive it would seem. One on gumtree for a couple of grand i think.

I already cut the controller on the new bike out and tossed it into the spares bin. I cut the electric brake switches out too and removed from calipers. Less wires look good.

I didnt use the heatsink from controller last time, might this time. Last time I left the new controller open to the elements, and the bright silver yk14 controller suited the silver bike. But this black bike looks really good, dark and mean. So I think i will at least put a black blank over the controller. I keep seeing if my yk14 controller gets hot, but it just doesnt, even at ~1100W. Remarkable.

Yeah, a quick hit of those contacts from the chinese cheapo 'dremel' never hurts.
 
Well the time has come to replace the old NMH battery as it is struggling with my big hill.I guess I will buy 2 of the long 8s lipos that you guys have got.Not being a techy at all can you tell me how to connect the two of them together(can I buy what I need from Hobby King and get it all in one parcel)I can follow samd's instructions regarding modifying the original battery box etc.I presume you are using the original electrical contacts on the rear of the battery box so it connects to the positive and negative contacts already attached to the frame?
As far as the charging/balancing goes would I be right if I bought one of these units also from Hobby King.I have already been using the replacement controller and twist grip throttle for about a year now so all of that side of it is okay.

?http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6609__iCharger_1010B_300W_10s_Bal

Any help would be much appreciated.
Tony.
 
Thats a great pic GT. I have the same 'y' connectors with a 5.5mm connector on all ends, as the long lipos use those. I didn't have any heavy gauge wire, so I used three lengths of 3mmsquared red wire soldered in parallel for positive, and same for neg in black.

I brought a 20 set pack of 5.5mm connectors and shrink on ebay.au for aboput ten bucks - I couldn't get them via australian hobbyking. They have been really handy to have around.

As per GT's earlier post, once a month I disconnect the y connector as in the previous photo and balance charge each of the two packs seperately, otherwise I just charge both packs at the same time in parallel as a big 8s pack with one of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15044__Turnigy_Accucel_8_150W_7A_Balancer_Charger_AUS_Warehouse_.html

I will make my next y connectors slightly different length - as my heatshrinks were not as good as GT's above - and once when hooking up for balance charging I accidentally shorted pos/neg . It left a white spot burnt into my retinas for about 20 mins! :shock:
It was only my inline fuse that stopped the batteries from becoming an impromptu arc welder - so USE A FUSE INLINE !

Gonna have a go at getting a third 8s battery pack inside my battery box soon as per previous post - hanging out to try!
 
Back
Top