Bestechpower BMS

great

I se nt them an e-mail today...but Chinese new year ..so closed tilll the 28th.

Seems there is a lot of very similar unit. something like 6 different 12 series 35 amp units and 3 or 4 80 amp 20 series units.

So i ahve asked for a shipping price and explanation of the differences..i cant see much difference on teh spec sheets..charging current and over current detection seems the only real differences...so i am wondering why so many different models that appear to do the same
 
Has anyone used the Bestech D178 shunting bms http://www.bestechpower.com/37v10spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D178.html

I am planning a build using Panasonic NCR 18650PF batts 3P10S or possibly 4P10S. This will be only my second pack build (first was 7070260 LiPo4 & a smart bms, all supplied by bmsbatts.com) The supplier sent a diagram which I followed to the letter.

My reason for going to 18650 tagged cells is they are available at a good price in europe with no dreaded duty surprises or huge shipping costs. I am trying to make a budget pack. I would ideally like to add an led per shunting resistor (on a separate daughterboard) This would help in sorting problems if they occur. I make each shunting res 61 ohm plus/minus 1%, could an led be put in series with each shunting res - even if the resistor had to be changed to give the same value then in parallel with its led. If this not possible then I have some cell monitoring boards on RC plugs that give a readout of each cell in turn. My idea is that once all parallel cell groups can be seen shunting then all is well, & the batt is charged. If one will not come to shunting voltage then that group needs investigation? Pack will be rebuildable using tagged cells. Does a wiring diagram come from 'Henry' & if I quote the cell type will he set the adjustable values to suit? My goal is a simple affordable pack that anyone can build / afford. I run separate small motors in each wheel at present. I am not an electronics engineer so sorry if any of this is totally impractical. The led idea comes from what Ping sells. I read that shunting bms is OK for li -ion but not for LiPo4???. My present max draw per motor / battpack is 15A with a remote possibility of going to 20A later. At some date I may wish to parallel connect two of the budget builds using a pair of Schlotty diodes to prevent one bleeding into another, thus allowing a big motor to be run from the budget batts.
 
if you have two identical packs in series and chemistry then there is no reason to isolate them with diodes.

if you have different chemistries and different charging voltages then they have to be separated by diodes. i usually add the diodes to the drains of the BMS.
 
Thanks for this thread. I'm really glad it is active!

I'm planning a couple of 18650 battery packs a 13s5p and a 13s3p.

I think this Bestectpower BMS
http://bestechpower.com/481v13spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/BMS-D245.html
will do the job for our 48v BSS02 750w bikes.

I would like to hear any (and all) comments on my BMS choice as although I think I understand what all the battery threads intend I'm not completely sure I am correct...

I would also like to know how the 2 wires labeled 'e-switch' are used...

Thank you in advance,
Mark
 
I need a BMS for 10s and 14s setup. Is best bet right now to order two of those d167?

How to order and what is total cost with shipping?
 
why would you need a 10S BMS and a 14S? what battery and charger do you have to use?

where are you located? i prefer to order the D16& with the full 16S compliment of channels populated. that is a stocked part.
 
I have my ebike running 14s (5s, 5s, 4s 8AH) and my wife's 36v bike running 10s 10 AH(4s 5AH x6).

I have a 36v and a 48v lifepo4 bulk charger that came with the kits.

The 16s d167 can be used for both 10s and 14s without any special config? Just don't need to plug in unused balance wires?

Is the default lvc and hvc values appropriate as ordered?

Located in Sacramento, california
 
how much power do you need? i have a D126 for 14S too. i have one of the D167 left but it is set for the 4.18V balancing voltage so i don't wanna just give it up for this.

if you can use the D126 at 20A then that should work for you but if you order two of the D167 from henry you can use them for either 10S or 14S. shipping is the expensive part so that is why i do the group shipments. to keep the cost down but it is not that big of a difference either.
 
I think the 20A is too low for the 48v/1000w 14s bike.. How do you order from henry? Just email him?

What would you recommend for low and high voltage protection and can he alter the balance voltage point?
 
Mark-az said:
Thanks for this thread. I'm really glad it is active!

I'm planning a couple of 18650 battery packs a 13s5p and a 13s3p.

I think this Bestectpower BMS
http://bestechpower.com/481v13spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/BMS-D245.html
will do the job for our 48v BSS02 750w bikes.

I would like to hear any (and all) comments on my BMS choice as although I think I understand what all the battery threads intend I'm not completely sure I am correct...

I would also like to know how the 2 wires labeled 'e-switch' are used...

Thank you in advance,
Mark
Click to expand...


I've gotta couple D245 16S and it's been good so far. I haven't managed to trip OverCurrent yet but only using it on 15A stuff. I've used D167/D140 BestechPower BMS but this is the 1st one which required a brief charge current after everything was assembled/connected - before it would power a load.

I've since ran into an odd situation where it shut-off sensing Over-voltage on a 100% top charge. Upon disconnecting it from the charger, it wouldn't turn ON and power anything. Workaround is/was a brief shot from the charger again and then the BMS powered my system normally. Weird...

The E-switch does exactly that. You can turn the BMS/PCM battery pack ON/OFF using a small mechanical switch open = OFF, closed = ON. Pretty cool, saves on sparking connectors or pre-charge circuit. Draws practically nothing OFF.
 
Ykick said:
The E-switch does exactly that. You can turn the BMS/PCM battery pack ON/OFF using a small mechanical switch open = OFF, closed = ON. Pretty cool, saves on sparking connectors or pre-charge circuit. Draws practically nothing OFF.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response.
So I can put a waterproof on/off switch on the batteries, great!

Mark
 
izeman said:
Any idea how this e-switch can be implemented on the HCX-D131 boards? I know that it has a temperature switch but I haven't seen this on/off connector.
Click to expand...

Try it and see but I hacked the temp switch on D167/D140 versions and it would only cut OFF. Had to disconnect P momentarily to restore ON after closing the thermal circuit.

Although it's connected in the general vicinity of thermal switch, D245 E-switch behaves differently and will toggle ON/OFF with no other manipulation required.
 
thanks ykick. i can confirm that, as i already tried it. you can use this temp switch to turn if OFF, but it won't turn on automatically as you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery. so not really convenient especially if you want to use it to safe the precharge resistor ;)
i don't have the knowledge to try around on the board and don't want to risk breaking it. maybe someone else has found a way to implement an on/off switch to these boards.
 
if you wish to turn the BMS on and off and that temp breaker leaves it latched off you can put a switch on a short between the gate and source on the output mosfets. on most BMS that is where the thermal breaker is located. on these it appears that the circuit current is latched off when it detects the open circuit on the thermal breaker so you have to reset by disconnecting. on some of the BMSs.

so try putting a switch across the output mosfet to turn the BMS on and off. i actually think it will be easier than wiring up a switch in that breaker anyway. i use a DIP switch and the distance between the legs of the DIP switch will just match the source-drain leg spacing of the TO-220 package.

since the gates and source legs are all tied in parallel you only need the one switch.
 
Attached is info & wiring diagram on the Bestech 10S li ion D178 bms . I did ask if it is of the shunting type, Ada Li asked for clarification on what shunting type meant. I fear my answer has only confused the issue further. Could anyone on here confirm the type of bms (I guessed shunting from the 10 large resistors on the board.) Bestech do though say it would be fine for a 4P 10S 18650 build. Also is my choice of shunting correct as the simplest & most reliable bms type, (if not as efficient as a smart bms)
sorry if I have crashed in here but thread is on Bestech products
 

Attachments

  • 10S D178 Li-ion BesTech Power datasheet.pdf
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If you turn it off by opening the thermostatic switch, the voltage across the FET switch will keep it off. Placing a 1K or so big resistor from P- to B- will allow it to turn back on as long as the load (controller) doesn't draw much current. The 1K will act like a precharge resistor and the FET bank will only turn on after the caps are charged.

If the controller has some standby drain, then the 1k will allow drain even when the thermostat is open. Best to measure the drain.
 
do you understand the circuit at all? can you see how the resistor is connected to the trace that goes to the sense wire and then to the cell?

on this BMS there is an 8 pin SOIC part that has two mosfet transistors inside. one transistor turns the current in that circuit on and off, the other does it to the adjacent channel. follow that?

when the voltage across the cell climbs above the 4.2V level then that mosfet is turned on and the current that would normally flow into the cell is now diverted or 'shunted' around the cell. that prevents the cell from having to accept more charge, except that usually the 'shunt current' or balancing current is still so high that the voltage across that cell will continue to climb until all the cells are balanced to the same voltage and in series from one end of the battery to the other and the voltage of the battery is the same as the voltage of the charger.

if the cell voltage climbs too fast because the pack is outa balance and goes above 4.28V then the output mosfets are turned off and the BMS will not allow current to flow from the charger until the pack is discharged down to 4.08V on that cell.

if you buy these you should order several and sell them to others here in the US by forwarding them through the usps. several people asked me to sell them 10S parts which i do not have and this is a pretty simple and obviously very cheap pcm.
 
Thanks guys, I really wanted confirmation that the bms was as I thought. I had traced the sense wire from cell to its resistor but could not go further. I am only an electrician / wireman, not an electronics guy. I have as yet no price from BesTech but believe two boards may be the min order. I am in England UK so it may not be practical to re sell into the US market? (two lots of customs duties etc) Can anyone see any likely problems using something so basic. (goal is a low cost replacement for 12Ah 36v nominal SLA bricks) I will check prices vs the Signalab board that also has been recommended to me (advantage of the latter is the tell tale diagnostic LED's)
 
there should be others over there who would benefit from getting them cheaper by splitting the airfreight.

i would not use a such a small pcm, 10S, and not this low in price either since i consider the heat sink on the higher part of the line to be more valuable. no heat sink keeps it limited in how long you can use it at full power.

someone else over there may wanna join you though.
 
Anyone have any experience with the D170 (40 Mos) high current boards?

I'm interested in the 14s version for my Nissan Leaf battery module pack add-on for the Zero
 
Hi,
Someone could tell me where I can buy a Bestechpower BMS ?
Thank you !
 
alexis57 said:
Hi,
I saw you bought a Bestechpower BMS, Im looking for one but I can't find it ...
Could you tell me where you bought yours ?
Thank you !
Click to expand...

MOQ (minimum order quantity) 2 - If you wanna deal with ‘em try email - sales@BesTechPower.com
 
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