Alan B
100 GW
Here is another battery layout that is more "block" arranged. This doesn't allow the controller in the triangle, so it is below the triangle:
Bonanza "Bulldozer" Dual PhaseRunner AWD
- Thread starter Alan B
- Start date
Alan B
100 GW
Ran across those Shimano XT/XTR V brakes that use a parallelogram setup to keep the pads perpendicular to the rims. Appears to be a nice improvement over the regular V brakes that tip the pads into the rim. Sounds like a good rear V brake upgrade!
Alan B
100 GW
Need to get a rear tire for the new rim/motor. Had an order for the Schwalbe Marathon Plus cancelled due to lack of availability, so am considering the Schwalbe Big Apple. Any feedback on this tire? Seems like a good idea, a tough puncture resistant tire with a bit more shock absorption for this hardtail bike. I'll run the Marathon Plus on the front since it is already there, and with the suspension in the front I don't need a softer/wider tire there as much.
The new rear rack came in, still waiting on other parts.
The new rear rack came in, still waiting on other parts.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Here's 8 pages on "balloon urban tires"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=455
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=455
Alan B
100 GW
spinningmagnets said:
Great link! Had read a bunch of threads on tires but had not come across that one.
Some folks don't like the Big Apple, others do. Quite a few choices out there.
Some tidbits - aerodynamics of front tire is more important than rear - frame disturbed air in the rear probably accounts for this.
Schwalbe tires are very flat-resistant. And the ones that have reflective whitewalls are very visible in headlights and camera flash photos.
Schwalbe Big Apples are praised for their soft ride (by most, not all).
Thanks,
Alan B
100 GW
This keyswitch arrangement allows precharging the controller caps to take place by disconnecting JP1, connecting battery at J1, closing keyswitch, waiting for precharge (should be visible on Cycle Analyst voltage readout) and then reconnecting JP1.
After that the keyswitch can be used normally to enable/disable operations.
Alan B
100 GW
Here's the thread on V brakes:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25674
There are a few "better" V-brakes out there, such as Magura hydraulic and Shimano XT/XTR.
I decided to try the Shimano XTR and found a rear set on eBay. They arrived today and they are really nicely made. Hope to try them soon. There is a good photo of them in the thread above. They have a parallelogram arm that keeps the pads perpendicular to the rim as they move. They appear to be very precisely made.
Just to recap, I changed the front Vbrake to a 203mm Disc with Hayes hydraulic brake. Amazing brake. Had some problem with the stock rear V brake so I'm going to upgrade that, too. Don't have frame mounts for a rear caliper. I did mount a rear disc to camoflage the motor a bit. We'll see how many folks notice the disc without caliper. It is kind of a test to see who is awake...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25674
There are a few "better" V-brakes out there, such as Magura hydraulic and Shimano XT/XTR.
I decided to try the Shimano XTR and found a rear set on eBay. They arrived today and they are really nicely made. Hope to try them soon. There is a good photo of them in the thread above. They have a parallelogram arm that keeps the pads perpendicular to the rim as they move. They appear to be very precisely made.
Just to recap, I changed the front Vbrake to a 203mm Disc with Hayes hydraulic brake. Amazing brake. Had some problem with the stock rear V brake so I'm going to upgrade that, too. Don't have frame mounts for a rear caliper. I did mount a rear disc to camoflage the motor a bit. We'll see how many folks notice the disc without caliper. It is kind of a test to see who is awake...
Alan B
100 GW
Thudbuster seatpost arrived this afternoon. Looks good. The cover split when I was installing it, appears to be a lot of stress on the seams. No test rides yet, maybe this weekend..
I'm sure losing a lot of pressure in these tires/tubes. Seems excessive. Both about the same so perhaps that's normal. Earlier tires were higher volume. Don't recall it ever being this bad. How well do tubed bike tires normally hold air? (or CO2?).
I'm sure losing a lot of pressure in these tires/tubes. Seems excessive. Both about the same so perhaps that's normal. Earlier tires were higher volume. Don't recall it ever being this bad. How well do tubed bike tires normally hold air? (or CO2?).
Alan B
100 GW
Really frustrating. Been home sick this week. Doing a lot of reading on ES but not working on any of my projects.
But I have more clearly realized - of all the many variables on the ebike, the two that will continue to vary are the BATTERIES and their management system. Everything else is pretty easy to nail down. So design for that!
So I'm shifting the design slightly. For FLEXIBILITY in batteries and associated management. So keep the triangle (and some other locations) available for batteries. I was pretty close to this on the last iteration with the "block" LiPo arrangement which was stimulated by Greg's comments and a desire to make it easy to take the battery off.
So let's take this a step further and make 2 new goals:
1) find a good mount for the controller that is at least somewhat stealthy and out of the way of battery mounting areas, and
2) come up with a battery mounting scheme for the triangle so various batteries can be easily mounted there.
So I reviewed my photos and it looks like it might fit behind the seat tube, up fairly high, between the rear wheel and the tube. Have to review that. I'm planning to paint it flat black. Make it disappear. Need some good mounts to grip the seat tube without distorting it. And try to leave room for fenders at some point...
The battery mounting is not as clear. Are the bottle mounts really strong enough to hold 25 pounds of batteries? May need something better. I don't want to scratch the bike all to heck with hose clamps. This should be pro.
My next level with batteries is also becoming more clear. 18S2P. Each "brick" of 6S 5AH Turnigy is good for about 3 conservative miles, so six of them should be good for 18 miles which is adequate for my 13 mile commute providing I charge at work. Rather than start with a heavy 4P pack of 12 bricks, I should start with a light 6 brick 18S2P pack! Test and learn. It might be marginal for the trip in, but there is a pretty good reserve there. For my first trip in I'll choose a day that I can be late in case I have to pedal more than expected...
But I have more clearly realized - of all the many variables on the ebike, the two that will continue to vary are the BATTERIES and their management system. Everything else is pretty easy to nail down. So design for that!
So I'm shifting the design slightly. For FLEXIBILITY in batteries and associated management. So keep the triangle (and some other locations) available for batteries. I was pretty close to this on the last iteration with the "block" LiPo arrangement which was stimulated by Greg's comments and a desire to make it easy to take the battery off.
So let's take this a step further and make 2 new goals:
1) find a good mount for the controller that is at least somewhat stealthy and out of the way of battery mounting areas, and
2) come up with a battery mounting scheme for the triangle so various batteries can be easily mounted there.
So I reviewed my photos and it looks like it might fit behind the seat tube, up fairly high, between the rear wheel and the tube. Have to review that. I'm planning to paint it flat black. Make it disappear. Need some good mounts to grip the seat tube without distorting it. And try to leave room for fenders at some point...
The battery mounting is not as clear. Are the bottle mounts really strong enough to hold 25 pounds of batteries? May need something better. I don't want to scratch the bike all to heck with hose clamps. This should be pro.
My next level with batteries is also becoming more clear. 18S2P. Each "brick" of 6S 5AH Turnigy is good for about 3 conservative miles, so six of them should be good for 18 miles which is adequate for my 13 mile commute providing I charge at work. Rather than start with a heavy 4P pack of 12 bricks, I should start with a light 6 brick 18S2P pack! Test and learn. It might be marginal for the trip in, but there is a pretty good reserve there. For my first trip in I'll choose a day that I can be late in case I have to pedal more than expected...
Alan B
100 GW
Here's one way to utilize bottle mounts using aluminum "U" material. Does take some space away from the resulting box:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23867
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23867
Alan B
100 GW
Just reread the "Show us your homemade battery housing thread", here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12847
Lots of interesting ideas to look at. Have to research "Starboard" material, marine tough plastic material machinable with wood tools.
One idea I had similar to what I was considering earlier - a triangular plastic plate mounted centered in the triangle, but covered in velcro loop material on both sides. Packs can be stuck to this center and covered with nylon fabric. Some straps would provide extra strength to keep the whole mass together in a fall. Could make a hard panel to cover them as well, and just use the nylon for a water/dust cover. This would work especially well for the hard case LiPos. If the wiring harness was designed right, it would be easy to reconfigure for different numbers of parallel or series packs even in the field. If a pack goes bad, fish it out and reconfigure! Really great for longer tours where battery maintenance might be important!
Not sure I want to do this, but is an interesting idea I haven't seen done!
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12847
Lots of interesting ideas to look at. Have to research "Starboard" material, marine tough plastic material machinable with wood tools.
One idea I had similar to what I was considering earlier - a triangular plastic plate mounted centered in the triangle, but covered in velcro loop material on both sides. Packs can be stuck to this center and covered with nylon fabric. Some straps would provide extra strength to keep the whole mass together in a fall. Could make a hard panel to cover them as well, and just use the nylon for a water/dust cover. This would work especially well for the hard case LiPos. If the wiring harness was designed right, it would be easy to reconfigure for different numbers of parallel or series packs even in the field. If a pack goes bad, fish it out and reconfigure! Really great for longer tours where battery maintenance might be important!
Not sure I want to do this, but is an interesting idea I haven't seen done!
Alan B
100 GW
Listened to Justin's presentation on their battery experiences, nickel and lithium. Some good info there for folks.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=23105
Justin's thread on regeneration has some good info, too:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9045
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=23105
Justin's thread on regeneration has some good info, too:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9045
Alan B
100 GW
Installed a few bits today.
The XTR Brake is really nice. Very refined. Pads stay perpendicular to the rim due to the little parallelogram arm and pivots. Need to replace that cable...
Thudbuster seatpost. New rear rack and slide-on ToPeak trunk bag. Planned for cargo, not batteries, but for testing anything's fair game.
Remount the Radbot 1000 rear taillight.
The SRAM shifter matches the gearset and has fine adjustment. Derailleur still needs tuning...
The XTR Brake is really nice. Very refined. Pads stay perpendicular to the rim due to the little parallelogram arm and pivots. Need to replace that cable...
Thudbuster seatpost. New rear rack and slide-on ToPeak trunk bag. Planned for cargo, not batteries, but for testing anything's fair game.
Remount the Radbot 1000 rear taillight.
The SRAM shifter matches the gearset and has fine adjustment. Derailleur still needs tuning...
Alan B
100 GW
Ordered a couple more LiPo 6S 5AH. When that arrives I'll have 18S2P which will be enough for 6x10 full up testing. The new 6x10 wheel is still in the box, have a few more bits to collect before we can install that.
dogman dan
1 PW
6x10 on 18s should work really nice.
Alan B
100 GW
dogman said:
Last night and this morning I reread my build thread here.
I want to thank dogman for the many helpful postings here and elsewhere on this forum. The same goes to all other helpful contributors to this thread and ES.
Based on everything I have read it looks like 18S on a 6x10 hub should be good for what I'm doing. Great torque and power up to the mid 20's mph. Torque falls off above that but top speed around 30. That is plenty. Good efficiency for the hills and long commute. I may even set the CA limit to 23 or so. Have to see how it goes. Thanks to methods for making these available again.
We've come a long way. The project is taking shape. We've got good brakes, tires, wheels, spokes, motor, torque arms, batteries, controller, throttle, mirror, shifter.
Issues at this point:
Rear derailleur not working well. Need to adjust or change something. I have not gone through the full adjustment yet so it may work fine after that. If not perhaps finding a freewheel that goes to 28 instead of 34 would be prudent. Do I really need a 34 tooth gear on this bike?
Battery mounting. nuff said at the moment.
BMS. Working on that. Short term just be careful and use RC chargers. Medium term add LVD. Long term something homebrew with microprocessors.
Chargers. RC for now. Improve when microprocessor BMS is working.
Fenders. Not fun, but probably necessary. Even in nice weather the pavement is wet in some spots. Anything good out there?
New wheel hardware. Need some washers. And another torque arm. And remake the soft alum torque strut.
Wiring. Need 4mm connectors (out of stock), fuses, probably a few other bits. May have a keyswitch. Some wire on the way.
Handlebar tape. Or grips, but tape sounds like a more flexible solution.
Sort out the kickstand mount. (Got a new dual leg model but concerned that it will crush the tubes).
Clothing. Have new helmet, need better gloves and probably riding pants. Something that doesn't look lycra.
dogman dan
1 PW
I love my cargo shorts, that have the ass pad from trift store lycra shorts sewn into them. Great for long summer rides without the roadie look. And I can carry a phone, wallet, etc.
Alan B
100 GW
Thanks for the tip, dogman. Something with zip-off legs would be good here, it is often cool. And having some scrape protection on the legs would be nice. When I was motorcycle commuting I wore an outdoor suit that was orange over my leather jacket and work clothes. I had Ham Radio on the bike and talked to some folks that I occasionally crossed paths with. They reported being able to see the orange suit long before seeing the motorcycle. So some kind of bright jacket is also a good idea. We don't have the sweltering temperatures that you have there. It is raining again today, actually, yesterday was very nice.
Starting Simple
Here is another cut at a paralleling PCB for 6S Turnigy packs. This one has five JST-XH connectors for 4P and one cable for the charger. This board is much smaller (and cheaper), and the other end of the charger cable should be something much more robust. Unless I see something wrong with this board in the next day or so I'll probably get a few. Greg in DC, would a board like this have been useful in your pack builds? I generally prefer a board to hacking and heatshrinking a bunch of wires... If anyone wants these we could get a panel made pretty cheap after I prove them out. They are so simple there cannot be a problem (right?), unless something like the hole diameter turns out to be wrong. I placed all the traces on the bottom layer so in the case the holes are wrong I can drill them out and still solder them up even after drilling out the plate-through. This is my first board with this program and this service, so there is always room for some gremlin or other. On a final we could move alternate traces to different layers to get more spacing. Also the traces are intentionally fairly thin. If this gets plugged in wrong the traces should pop and minimize damage to the wires or fingers.
This board could also be used for 5S by loading different sockets.
Starting Simple
Here is another cut at a paralleling PCB for 6S Turnigy packs. This one has five JST-XH connectors for 4P and one cable for the charger. This board is much smaller (and cheaper), and the other end of the charger cable should be something much more robust. Unless I see something wrong with this board in the next day or so I'll probably get a few. Greg in DC, would a board like this have been useful in your pack builds? I generally prefer a board to hacking and heatshrinking a bunch of wires... If anyone wants these we could get a panel made pretty cheap after I prove them out. They are so simple there cannot be a problem (right?), unless something like the hole diameter turns out to be wrong. I placed all the traces on the bottom layer so in the case the holes are wrong I can drill them out and still solder them up even after drilling out the plate-through. This is my first board with this program and this service, so there is always room for some gremlin or other. On a final we could move alternate traces to different layers to get more spacing. Also the traces are intentionally fairly thin. If this gets plugged in wrong the traces should pop and minimize damage to the wires or fingers.
This board could also be used for 5S by loading different sockets.
Alan B
100 GW
I was hoping to report that the balance pc boards were on order, but some problems with the Batchpcb online ordering continue.
It does look as though my next shipment of Turnigy Lipo is about to ship, however.
It does look as though my next shipment of Turnigy Lipo is about to ship, however.
Alan B
100 GW
Success! Finally figured out the problem with BatchPCB and got the above paralleling boards ordered.
A Schwalbe box arrived yesterday. A couple of Big Apples. Plan is to use that on the rear of the bike, and the Marathon plus on the front.
I see the new rim is also sized for Presta valves. Have to ream that out. Last time I reamed until the tube fit. I wonder if there is a standard for this, otherwise sometime might find a tube that doesn't fit??
Looks like 4mm bullets are in stock at HK again. So mine should ship soon.
Working on the keyswitch design. Would be nice to just turn a small key on or off, and not have to worry about precharge. Also be able to disconect/connect the plugs without sparks or special procedures. Could do that with a couple of FETS...
Thoughts on a Better KeySwitch Module:
Wouldn't that be a nice module to have? Key on and off without concerns of precharging, avoid killing the batteries even if the key is accidentally left on, or the bike is attended by others after a collision. Unplugging the batteries for charging, changing, or extra safety would not be such a problem. No drain from constantly keeping the capacitors and the controller at full voltage. Works just like the car or motorcycle everyone is already familiar with.
Each battery pack can have a simple LVD output, no big FET switch inside. This LVD feeds the kill/LVD input on the keyswitch module. So no matter how many battery packs you have you don't have more one big FET switch. This makes it easier to series battery packs as well, as those in-pack FET switches can cause problems when one pack shuts down and the other pack doesn't. Also avoids the loss of several FET switches in series.
A Schwalbe box arrived yesterday. A couple of Big Apples. Plan is to use that on the rear of the bike, and the Marathon plus on the front.
I see the new rim is also sized for Presta valves. Have to ream that out. Last time I reamed until the tube fit. I wonder if there is a standard for this, otherwise sometime might find a tube that doesn't fit??
Looks like 4mm bullets are in stock at HK again. So mine should ship soon.
Working on the keyswitch design. Would be nice to just turn a small key on or off, and not have to worry about precharge. Also be able to disconect/connect the plugs without sparks or special procedures. Could do that with a couple of FETS...
Thoughts on a Better KeySwitch Module:
- key on / off with low current keyswitch (switch current about 10 mA)
- when keyed off current drain would be FET leakage only (really really low)
- automatic precharging of the controller capacitors
- automatic timeout when throttle not used for N minutes shuts power off (requires key cycle to turn back on)
- automatic shutdown to very low current drain (not quite as low as keyed off, but less than say 0.2 mA)
- kill input for BMS, kill switch or other interrupts throttle, then if it persists shuts down all power
- impedance of this module very low, IE four big FETs in parallel (lower than controller)
Wouldn't that be a nice module to have? Key on and off without concerns of precharging, avoid killing the batteries even if the key is accidentally left on, or the bike is attended by others after a collision. Unplugging the batteries for charging, changing, or extra safety would not be such a problem. No drain from constantly keeping the capacitors and the controller at full voltage. Works just like the car or motorcycle everyone is already familiar with.
Each battery pack can have a simple LVD output, no big FET switch inside. This LVD feeds the kill/LVD input on the keyswitch module. So no matter how many battery packs you have you don't have more one big FET switch. This makes it easier to series battery packs as well, as those in-pack FET switches can cause problems when one pack shuts down and the other pack doesn't. Also avoids the loss of several FET switches in series.
Alan B
100 GW
Since this module would be touching the throttle, it could also do some other interesting things. Such as cruise control, throttle remapping, or since battery current is also going through this module it could implement a power throttle (battery current based), power limiting, or battery current limiting.
Perhaps an input for a motor temperature sensor makes sense here since it could back off the max throttle of the motor gets hot, limiting power to the motor based on motor temperature. Same for controller temperature.
This module could also implement a 12V regulator since it will need that internally anyway. And provide at least a moderate amount of 12V.
Just received email that HK has packed my 4mm bullets for shipment. YAY!
Perhaps an input for a motor temperature sensor makes sense here since it could back off the max throttle of the motor gets hot, limiting power to the motor based on motor temperature. Same for controller temperature.
This module could also implement a 12V regulator since it will need that internally anyway. And provide at least a moderate amount of 12V.
Just received email that HK has packed my 4mm bullets for shipment. YAY!
Alan B
100 GW
Back to boxes. Considering a triangle box made of StarBoard. Getting a little more accurate here, showing thickness of the box which constrains the battery layout:
Alan B
100 GW
Good news - the two recent 6S Turnigy 5000 mAH batteries I ordered came in today, and they had the same 4mm shrouded polarized bullets they had in the past (contrary to some other rumors). They will fit in with the rest connector wise. So now I have six for 18S2P 10AH.
Also arriving today was a small box from Lyen with a BLDC tester, thumb throttle, three speed switch and the connectors for them. These are ready to plug into the 12 FET Lyen controller. Or at least close, some of the connectors have not been assembled. The motor/halls/controller tester looks interesting. Should help when getting the phasing worked out.
I spent some time working on battery box layouts. I found that I could fit 12 !!!! of the 5S 5AH Turnigy packs into one of the little Harbor Freight 11 inch tool cases. That would be really nice if it would fit in the triangle. But no, it is just a bit too large to fit in the triangle. This same box will fit 8 of the 16AH Headway cells.
I tried a few other designs with smaller battery boxes that would hold six of the 6S packs for 10AH or about 720 watt hours. That should be enough for my commute.
Making some small battery packs that could be replaceable on the bike is very appealing. But what to make them of? Fiberglass is quite expensive. Extruded aluminum would be great but the size is just a bit too small.
Building a triangular battery box would maximize battery space and provide great protection. But it is a large job to fit it precisely and make it have all the features I would like. Also, the battery pack would be trapped, so it would be hard to remove it for security or working on it. It would be impractical to swap packs easily.
A swappable 18S 10AH pack would be about 7 by 7 by 5 inches. If I made two of them I would have a number of options. I could also make an extender pack that would go on the rear rack that had perhaps 3 more batteries for 18S 5AH. That would be small enough to have no effect oh handing. It could be used alone for short trips. Or it could be made so it would fit in the triangle so I would have lots of options. If I had two of them it would give me options of 5, 10, 15 or 20AH depending on the needs of the day.
I found my NordLock lockwashers. I have not tried them yet, should put at least one pair on for testing.
Also arriving today was a small box from Lyen with a BLDC tester, thumb throttle, three speed switch and the connectors for them. These are ready to plug into the 12 FET Lyen controller. Or at least close, some of the connectors have not been assembled. The motor/halls/controller tester looks interesting. Should help when getting the phasing worked out.
I spent some time working on battery box layouts. I found that I could fit 12 !!!! of the 5S 5AH Turnigy packs into one of the little Harbor Freight 11 inch tool cases. That would be really nice if it would fit in the triangle. But no, it is just a bit too large to fit in the triangle. This same box will fit 8 of the 16AH Headway cells.
I tried a few other designs with smaller battery boxes that would hold six of the 6S packs for 10AH or about 720 watt hours. That should be enough for my commute.
Making some small battery packs that could be replaceable on the bike is very appealing. But what to make them of? Fiberglass is quite expensive. Extruded aluminum would be great but the size is just a bit too small.
Building a triangular battery box would maximize battery space and provide great protection. But it is a large job to fit it precisely and make it have all the features I would like. Also, the battery pack would be trapped, so it would be hard to remove it for security or working on it. It would be impractical to swap packs easily.
A swappable 18S 10AH pack would be about 7 by 7 by 5 inches. If I made two of them I would have a number of options. I could also make an extender pack that would go on the rear rack that had perhaps 3 more batteries for 18S 5AH. That would be small enough to have no effect oh handing. It could be used alone for short trips. Or it could be made so it would fit in the triangle so I would have lots of options. If I had two of them it would give me options of 5, 10, 15 or 20AH depending on the needs of the day.
I found my NordLock lockwashers. I have not tried them yet, should put at least one pair on for testing.
Alan B
100 GW
I have been thinking about attachments to the bicycle tubes. The best way to clamp to a tube is with a split block machined to the right diameter. Today I measured my bike tubes to see if they will fit into standard block saddle clamps. It appears that the tubes on my bike are inch sized. Top tube measured 1.508", seat tube 1.256", and the down tube measures 2.058".
It would be nice to buy these clamps instead of having to make them. Ham Radio antennas use these types of clamps.
One source I found has "resin support block clamps" in inch sizes. Has anyone used these? Are there other better sources for block clamps of this type? Here these are:
http://www.dxengineering.com/Products.asp?ID=24&SecID=1&DeptID=39
It would be nice to buy these clamps instead of having to make them. Ham Radio antennas use these types of clamps.
One source I found has "resin support block clamps" in inch sizes. Has anyone used these? Are there other better sources for block clamps of this type? Here these are:
http://www.dxengineering.com/Products.asp?ID=24&SecID=1&DeptID=39
Alan B
100 GW
Sketched a simpler power wiring setup with a fuse in the battery box, closer to the battery:
Here are some fuses rated at 80 volts, available from 35 to 500 amps from places like Mouser electronics:
A few days ago I sketched out a design that automatically precharges the caps and does the main power switching with FETs. It gets a bit complicated, I put it on the back burner for now. Need to start simple and improve later... But it would be nice.
Still fiddling on the battery box. Need to make it simple enough to build.
I've been a bit under the weather lately, so more time to design and less energy to build anything. Waiting on a couple of parts orders, too.
Looking for a good keyswitch. Any favorites out there?
Here are some fuses rated at 80 volts, available from 35 to 500 amps from places like Mouser electronics:
A few days ago I sketched out a design that automatically precharges the caps and does the main power switching with FETs. It gets a bit complicated, I put it on the back burner for now. Need to start simple and improve later... But it would be nice.
Still fiddling on the battery box. Need to make it simple enough to build.
I've been a bit under the weather lately, so more time to design and less energy to build anything. Waiting on a couple of parts orders, too.
Looking for a good keyswitch. Any favorites out there?
