Building my first e-bike, questions

Welcome to our world.
There are strategies for getting on a ebike. Stand one foot on a pedal, hit the throttle and swing the other leg over. Or lean the bike way over and step over the top tube.
Getting off of them ain't no problem, though it can be quite awkward, sometimes hilarious.
Or buy a step thru.
Try that when you are 65 and overweight, a recipe for disaster. Plus I have slight balance issues
 
Try that when you are 65 and overweight, a recipe for disaster. Plus I have slight balance issues
Plenty of us have balance issues not a problem once you're moving. Getting on and off can be a problem. Some people do a rolling dismount and seem to like it. I tried it twice once was a fail the other was fine, I think I need practice! I haven't tried a rolling mount yet, maybe one day.
 
Plenty of us have balance issues not a problem once you're moving.
oh, that depends on your specific issues. ;) :(

i built hte sb cruiser trike as a trike partly because of my version of these issues (and partly to put a cargo space big enough for a st bernard right in the "bike", isntead of a trailer like i'd been using with the bike version (crazybike2).

i'd built crazybike2 as semi-recumbent in some part because of my issues getting on/off regular bikes (and these days, more than a decade on, i can't get on one without significant risk, much less ride it safely, and i was never free of issues with regular bikes even though i used them as my main transportation my whole life, because i have always had various degrees of motor-control issues in my brain/body).


when i did ride regular bikes, i usually did the pedal-mount method: one leg already up and over the frame with foot on the pedal at top 1oclock of it's arc, other foot on the ground, bike tilted toward that leg. push off the ground and push down on the pedal, plop onto the seat and put my other foot on the rising crank. but it takes a lot of coordination to do that and it wasn't uncommon for me to fail at one or another of the actions, most often that of meeting the rising pedal instead of "tripping" over it, next most often that of getting my leg over the frame to the pedal in the first place instead of just falling, usually onto and under the bike at the same time. :(
 
oh, that depends on your specific issues. ;) :(

i built hte sb cruiser trike as a trike partly because of my version of these issues (and partly to put a cargo space big enough for a st bernard right in the "bike", isntead of a trailer like i'd been using with the bike version (crazybike2).

i'd built crazybike2 as semi-recumbent in some part because of my issues getting on/off regular bikes (and these days, more than a decade on, i can't get on one without significant risk, much less ride it safely, and i was never free of issues with regular bikes even though i used them as my main transportation my whole life, because i have always had various degrees of motor-control issues in my brain/body).


when i did ride regular bikes, i usually did the pedal-mount method: one leg already up and over the frame with foot on the pedal at top 1oclock of it's arc, other foot on the ground, bike tilted toward that leg. push off the ground and push down on the pedal, plop onto the seat and put my other foot on the rising crank. but it takes a lot of coordination to do that and it wasn't uncommon for me to fail at one or another of the actions, most often that of meeting the rising pedal instead of "tripping" over it, next most often that of getting my leg over the frame to the pedal in the first place instead of just falling, usually onto and under the bike at the same time. :(
You are correct I should have said not as much of a problem.
 
Some people do a rolling dismount and seem to like it.
My favorite. I'll dismount while rolling at a pretty good clip and curl my left foot around my right ankle while standing on the right pedal. Then just step off when fully stopped. I mention the curl as I used to drag the left foot and tended to get it caught under the right pedal or dragging/scraping the wheel. This doesn't help for momentary stops (where most people put a foot down) where I have to step down and straddle the top tube. Normally not a problem for most but I have a very large frame bike and the top tube is way off the ground (check how long the head tube is). Makes me be very careful straddling that tube (as a guy - if you know what I mean - chuckles.....).
 
You could say it has virtually no rear suspension available downward if you look closely enough.
Guessing it's touching solid w/rider on.
View attachment 362733
Hard to tell how wide the gap is from the angle photo was taken. That's an old spring, probably weaker than when it was new, so it very well could touch with rider weight on. If it had a new spring, properly adjusted, how long do you think that rear rack mount will survive?
 
Hard to tell how wide the gap is from the angle photo was taken. That's an old spring, probably weaker than when it was new, so it very well could touch with rider weight on.
I wasn't sure when I looked at the pic, as the arm goes more sideways than up, depending on the pivot point relative the seat post.
 
The torque arms should be on the back of the shocks, correct? I have seen pics of all different ways... my reasoning is that the wheel (from the right side) pulls clockwise, so the shaft's pull is counter-clockwise so the downward pull would be from the rear. I am not sure if the hub does electronic breaking, so if it does is that force as much as the drive force?
 
Last edited:
The torque arms should be on the back of the shocks, correct? I have seen picks of all different ways... my reasoning is that the wheel (from the right side) pulls clockwise, so the shaft's pull is counter-clockwise so the downward pull would be from the rear. I am not sure if the hub does electronic breaking, so if it does is that force as much as the drive force?
As long as the torque arm is stiff enough to function as a strut (under compression), and as long as the attachment at the far end is secure and not wiggly, it doesn't really matter which way around it attaches. The most vulnerable and failure prone part of the torque arm (by far) is the flatted hole for the axle.

The frequent reversing torque of a direct drive motor used for both propulsion and braking will tend to loosen axle nuts and cause expensive problems unless you use a massive clamping torque arm that allows no axle movement at all. Under no circumstances would I be comfortable using regenerative braking or plug braking on a front wheel.
 
What's the weight of that battery? With it mounted so far out and with that long leverage arm, I wonder how long before the seat tube breaks?
Not too much, it's a Huffy Oslo's battery temporarily repurposed. I later made a battery to fit on the down tube, so in this case seat post failure became a moot point.
 
One good thing the "shocks"and fork are steel so that's a plus, checked today... It also looks will have enough room to do a seat post support for the back rack.
Anyone know of a decent battery mount, like a drawer slide that latches or locks
 
One good thing the "shocks"and fork are steel so that's a plus, checked today...

Steel, yes; strong, no. That kind of cheap suspension fork doesn't have forged or plate tips. Typically the fork tips are formed by squashing the slider tubes flat and cutting slots in them. So each fork tip is two layers of relatively thin, relatively soft and ductile mild steel.

They'll do, but everything will depend on the torque arms.

Forks of that pedigree also tend to use plastic bushings that quickly wallow out and become very sloppy even in normal use (5 mph on the sidewalk to buy Indian reservation smokes and pineapple flavored malt liquor at the corner store). Propelling the bike from the front axle will greatly accelerate that process, so keep an eye on it.
 
So it arrived.. and was damaged in shipping, the wiring was crushed where it went into the hub.
I can fix it, but it'll take a while. found pedal sensor and disk missing as well. Waiting on the seller to see what we will do. There are a couple of loose spokes as well, something else to learn...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20241206_184338959.jpg
    IMG_20241206_184338959.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 18
  • IMG_20241206_184310334.jpg
    IMG_20241206_184310334.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 18
Last edited:
That's really bad, IMO not worth fixing. Even if you get it to run, you will have problems later. Ask for your money back.
I'd love to see a pic of the box it was shipped in. Did it fall off the truck and got dragged 100 ft on the pavement?
 
That's really bad, IMO not worth fixing. Even if you get it to run, you will have problems later. Ask for your money back.
I'd love to see a pic of the box it was shipped in. Did it fall off the truck and got dragged 100 ft on the pavement?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20241206_184653015.jpg
    IMG_20241206_184653015.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 9
Nice work on the wiring. If you can do that, you can put a couple of 12G spokes im, and get them tight w/o a tension gauge.
.
 
Back
Top