Compact Field Oriented Controller, ASI + Grin, limited run
- Thread starter justin_le
- Start date
MrDude_1
100 kW
mjayt said:
My first thought is the TTL cable driver is not installed properly. I would unplug it, then on the pc, go into the device manager, remove it... download and install the drivers for it.. then plug it back in.
it may work fine for the CA3 at 9600 baud, but the BAC software runs at 115200 baud. I have seen this behavior before on USB serial cables.
second thought is to run it as an administrator if you're already not doing that.
3rd.. just uninstall, wipe the directory, and reinstall.
John Bozi
100 kW
I pressed "Y" = purchase
I imagine Justin is the guy running and the potential buyers trying to catch him.
[youtube]vc1nFonpkYs[/youtube]
No seriously, I read a few spots mentioning "thermal rollback" as a person that sees a lot of the working of electronics as witch craft,
does this controller have a way of sensing temperature and then limiting amps? or is this phrase referring to something else?
Can someone explain the spec above in more detail. If 80a is peak phase is the (-40A) = continuous battery or phase amps? so This thing could run 100v x 40a = 4kw continuous or are the battery amps more like 20, so this is more of a 2kw controller...
My massive greentime controller lists maximum voltage 84 and 80 amps and 3000 watts - so you get an idea if running high amps then you'll have to lower your volts or vice versa....
p.s might be cool if this controller would mate with the HV satiator some how as one complete killer deal package on the bike. It's small enough...
I imagine Justin is the guy running and the potential buyers trying to catch him.
[youtube]vc1nFonpkYs[/youtube]
No seriously, I read a few spots mentioning "thermal rollback" as a person that sees a lot of the working of electronics as witch craft,
does this controller have a way of sensing temperature and then limiting amps? or is this phrase referring to something else?
Also Justin mentioned only getting warm around 1.5kw... (can't remember page of this thread)
Can someone explain the spec above in more detail. If 80a is peak phase is the (-40A) = continuous battery or phase amps? so This thing could run 100v x 40a = 4kw continuous or are the battery amps more like 20, so this is more of a 2kw controller...
My massive greentime controller lists maximum voltage 84 and 80 amps and 3000 watts - so you get an idea if running high amps then you'll have to lower your volts or vice versa....
p.s might be cool if this controller would mate with the HV satiator some how as one complete killer deal package on the bike. It's small enough...
This controller has over temperature protection function, if reach temperature threshold, the output power will drop.
Peak electric power=DC voltage*Max limit battery current, at which you can run a short time;
Rated electric power<<Peak electric power, at which you can run a long time and will not reach over temperature threshold;
cycborg
1 kW
This document (PDF) gives the specs for the Grin Infineon controllers - most of the connectors are the same. Hall connector is shown on p. 10. With the sockets pointed at you and the metal contacts visible on top, the order is +5, Green, Blue, Yellow, Ground.Triketech said:
Not sure what you're referring to - got a photo?
cycborg
1 kW
Maybe this is the ground wire option? Did you order this option? Or maybe they made it standard later on. Anyway, my unit doesn't have what you're describing.Triketech said:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65031&start=350#p1077692
Jozzer
100 kW
I believe the large gauge red and black wires are actually for a charger connection, so that charge current is "counted" by the CA..
cavallo pazzo
100 mW
Added wire are for external charge ideal for solar, if you want to read your Ah from fossil source only but don't want solar to be mixed up with fossil.
About setting with Bacdoor: after motor discovery, hall discovery and values adjustment to have -1 in position 0 and 7, it's written to do hall angle offset adjustment.
But that's where I'm stuck: no such value to read as "d output" to set it at zero, as described in ASI manual in page 46 of 65.
Thought it was a software revision problem, as I'm running 1.5.0 for my BAC500+, but Bacdoor 1.5.3 just refuses to launch under win7 and gives immediate error (Bacdoor stopped working) at launch.
About setting with Bacdoor: after motor discovery, hall discovery and values adjustment to have -1 in position 0 and 7, it's written to do hall angle offset adjustment.
But that's where I'm stuck: no such value to read as "d output" to set it at zero, as described in ASI manual in page 46 of 65.
Thought it was a software revision problem, as I'm running 1.5.0 for my BAC500+, but Bacdoor 1.5.3 just refuses to launch under win7 and gives immediate error (Bacdoor stopped working) at launch.
cycborg
1 kW
This isn’t a showstopper - the manual seems to imply that this only results in a slight inefficiency when running in hall mode. To really take advantage of the FOC you don’t want to spend much time in hall mode anyway - I use hall-start, sensorless-run mode for a nice torquey start. It only runs in hall mode up to maybe 6-10 km/h before transitioning, so just a few seconds.cavallo pazzo said:
Having said that, though, you can add any parameter anywhere in BACDoor, just right-click, select Add Parameter…, and choose “d output”.
cavallo pazzo
100 mW
And where is 1.5.4 soft ? only found 1.5.3 or 1.5.0 so far. Must have missed it somewhere. Please guide me...
r3volved
100 kW
http://www.ebikes.ca/downloads/BacDoorSetup_1_5_4.zip
r3volved
100 kW
Is this overkill? Would I be better off to use thermal grease between and bolt everything to the plate, or jbweld those heatsinks to the plate and bolt the controller between?
John Bozi
100 kW
Doesn't look so small now.
Does heat travel through ALU corners as well as non bent stuff?
I'd be thinking folding it U channel style to fit around your downtube, so it doesn't stick out so much. Or even curved if the down tube is more cylindrical than rectangular. Just flattened at the mating point.
AFT motor
RC motor heat sink
could cut of fins and flatten the top maybe?
Does heat travel through ALU corners as well as non bent stuff?
I'd be thinking folding it U channel style to fit around your downtube, so it doesn't stick out so much. Or even curved if the down tube is more cylindrical than rectangular. Just flattened at the mating point.
AFT motor
RC motor heat sink
could cut of fins and flatten the top maybe?
sn0wchyld
100 kW
r3volved said:Is this overkill? Would I be better off to use thermal grease between and bolt everything to the plate, or jbweld those heatsinks to the plate and bolt the controller between?
that sheet of ally looks rather thin... that'd be my main concern - all the heatsinks you have wont be able to do as much given that there's a high-resistance path the 'heat' has to travel through. use some 5mm plate or similar (assuming that the picture isn't just tricking me that is!) and it should work a lot better...
mjayt said:
so it turns out I had the baud rate in windows set to 9600. duh. changing that to the bac controller standard of 115200 fixed it in addition to pressing the automotive connector wires further into the housing. it was making contact but the connectors were touching inside the housing causing voltage to leak across the wires. so any one that orders the bac2000 with the connectors, be sure to fully insert the wire connectors all the way into the housing. it helped to remove the white cover on the front of the housing and pull the connectors through with tweezers instead of pushing them from the back of the connector.
Now that the controller is communicating with the computer and I am able to program the perimeters, I am getting a controller over voltage fault. I am running a 96v 65a nimn battery(12s) and it will not let me set the Rated system voltage above 89v. I am getting a voltage scale back fault as a result.
Help!
cavallo pazzo
100 mW
cycborg said:
Still working with 1.5.0, as neither 1.5.3 nor 1.5.4 accepts to boot.
Administrator or not, XPsp3 compatibility mode not, installed on C or on D, it immediately blocks and give an error.
Except this, thanks for soft link, and for "add parameter" function, was able to add "d output" easily.
As I'm new to FOC controller, I'm impressed by silence and smoothness already in full sensored but don't know what to expect from sensored start+sensorless run mode.
cycborg wrote sensorless run is way to go to take full advantage of FOC, but why ?
r3volved
100 kW
So I've managed to clear all my faults and warnings and seem to have the battery and basic throttle set. However I am not getting any output to motor.
When connected to ca, I see throttle coming in but the output of throttle is does not change (sits at 1.3v base).
With ca disconnected and throttle to controller, I get nothing as well. Tried two throttles.
I've only made it through about half the manual before I got tired and went to bed. Any ideas? Any tests I can do?
Edit: Oh snap! ASI is quite literally only a couple blocks from me! I wonder if they'll care if I just show up. Hot damn i gotta find out if they're hiring any developers!
When connected to ca, I see throttle coming in but the output of throttle is does not change (sits at 1.3v base).
With ca disconnected and throttle to controller, I get nothing as well. Tried two throttles.
I've only made it through about half the manual before I got tired and went to bed. Any ideas? Any tests I can do?
Edit: Oh snap! ASI is quite literally only a couple blocks from me! I wonder if they'll care if I just show up. Hot damn i gotta find out if they're hiring any developers!
Similar threads
-
- Locked
