Dave's 80:1 RC mid drive kit build log
- Thread starter tangentdave
- Start date
What specifically do you want your bike to do, under what specific riding conditions? More detail is better, so we can use that info to calculate the power/etc required to do the job you need it to. Then we need to know what specific bike you want to put it on, and your budget, etc. Again, more detail is better. Then we can try to recommend a specific kit for you, if one exists.
Otherwise, I can only recommend looking thru the forums for something you think might work for you, as there are many "electric bike kits" people have used for many different types of riding conditions and bikes, etc.
Hello, thank you for answering, I currently use a CYC but they break due to their poor quality, I have already broken 3, what I want is a central motor to climb mountains that can give a minimum of 1500w and that has some type of reducer, in the There are hardly any engines on the market, and as for the bike, it is an enduro but I don't have it yet. Thank you
ginekolog
10 W
For stable operation way above 1500w you need sth like lmx 161 or sur ron. Bicycle chains wont handle it sorry.
Did anyone ever modify Daves Gen2 waterjacket design with steel gears to the proper profile? I have access to a CNC mill and lathe now. Was thinking of stripping down the tangent and reworking the profile. I notice notching on the outer housing. Gears themselves seem plenty hard.
Ecyclist
1 kW
Did you ever open the cycloidal transmission? If you going to recut the profile you will have to make a new matching part.
What is plenty hard?
What is plenty hard?
antares924
1 mW
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2018
- Messages
- 10
Was the profile incorrect? I have two of these units. Still working.
Gen 1 something was definitely wrong. The two inner gears didn't seem to be hard enough and eventually a pin snapped and a bearing went. I'm not sure if one failure caused the other but the cyclodial gears looked to be starting to go oblong in the holes where the pins ride. Dave sent me a revised waterjacket version so I could swap my astro over. Thermals were much better but then I was afraid to ride it hard. Went i talk about plenty hard I'm referencing the cyclodial gearset. Gen 1 seemed a little too soft.
Upon regreasing I have noticed wear on the outer portion, initially it wasn't too bad but now I can definitely catch a finger nail on it . Worst case I would pickup a CYC kit but having a nice Astro motor sit around makes me sad.
If someone has a profile for gears that work long term in the tangent I wouldn't mind getting a second set cut as a backup. Feeling like I have to baby this tangent really takes the fun out of it.
antares924
1 mW
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2018
- Messages
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If you happen to find the profile and get some cut lmk. The outer portion does catch a finger nail, only thing I've noticed on my kit, but still rides and I'm pushing 6.5kw.
Ecyclist
1 kW
Is outer profile made of aluminum?
No, steel of some kind.
I'll be sure to post here if I ever get it done. How many km on your bike/gearset?
I remember my first grease change I couldn't catch the wear with my finger. I could see it but otherwise ok. Second change was when I started to feel it and I backed off riding the bike hard for fear of failure or damage. That said this is the version to ride hard with the waterjacket, temps always in check and perhaps I will just get on it hard and see what happens. Should it go I will have an astro for a project and I will swap over to a CYC kit. I've been looking forward to having a torque sensor on my setup and the CYC looks like it fits the bill should the tangent give up the ghost.
Ecyclist
1 kW
If it's steel you could build up material back and make a surface much more resistant to wear with nitriding.
In case of aluminum hard anodizing would do the trick.
In case of aluminum hard anodizing would do the trick.
antares924
1 mW
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2018
- Messages
- 10
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