xyster
10 MW
Ypedal said:
Something's seriously amiss when it takes longer to get the right bike than the right wife.
Deecanios first build the "DC1"
- Thread starter deecanio
- Start date
Something's seriously amiss when it takes longer to get the right bike than the right wife.
Any possibility to bypass the BMS on discharge and simply hook it up for charging ? as long as you have your DB installed and dont go into the last 20% of charge .. visually monitor your volts and rock on... ??
Im not sure really Y,
i doubt it as if i do that i will prob blow the controller as my one is unmodified, im really stuck there, also my point 1's are sealed tampering might have implications with my supplier who is holding firm on supplying me with a sound 72v system so i dont want to do anything too drastic in case they need to go back.
i've been thinking about alternatives to give the puma more time to get right without leaving me nothing to ride this year, but im not sure which way to go - i was thinking 48v nimh/nicad to fill the gap as that should run within controllers restrictions but maytag blew his at 52ish so still not great.
all ends up im stuck in a waiting period that means i cant finish the bike
it'll be all right in the end this bike is made for 72 and 72 it will be
send those packs over and i'll dust em for ya
:wink:
cheers
D
i doubt it as if i do that i will prob blow the controller as my one is unmodified, im really stuck there, also my point 1's are sealed tampering might have implications with my supplier who is holding firm on supplying me with a sound 72v system so i dont want to do anything too drastic in case they need to go back.
i've been thinking about alternatives to give the puma more time to get right without leaving me nothing to ride this year, but im not sure which way to go - i was thinking 48v nimh/nicad to fill the gap as that should run within controllers restrictions but maytag blew his at 52ish so still not great.
all ends up im stuck in a waiting period that means i cant finish the bike
it'll be all right in the end this bike is made for 72 and 72 it will be
send those packs over and i'll dust em for ya
:wink:
cheers
D
Hi all
hey D just got through some NiMh battery packs from the uk. resonable price (less than £450) custom shapes can be done if Lipoly is going to be a problem maybe taking a step back might work untill you can get your lipolys to work then you will have a spare set of batteries for the bike.
The compleat setup would require getting the batteries from one company and the chargers from another, a bit of a fiddle but to get going we do what we must.
hey D just got through some NiMh battery packs from the uk. resonable price (less than £450) custom shapes can be done if Lipoly is going to be a problem maybe taking a step back might work untill you can get your lipolys to work then you will have a spare set of batteries for the bike.
The compleat setup would require getting the batteries from one company and the chargers from another, a bit of a fiddle but to get going we do what we must.
gwsaltspring
100 W
Hi D
Sorry to here that things have kind of stalled for you
I know what you mean about being busy, what with the move to the farm and at work, I've been swamped designing for the last few weeks but things are off to the building department Mon. so the end is in sight. (at least until the building starts on this project LOL)
I went ahead and bought myself a new bike and reading about your build got me to rethinking going with the X-lyte 5 series I was contemplating. Especially after I rode the 1000ft hill up to the new property. I must say though the ride down was thrilling
I have sent a PM to Knoxie asking about the mods he made to the controller but haven't heard back. I would expect he is busy.
Do you happen to know the pros and cons of the 20A vs 35A controller in this application if they both work? It seemed from reading the thread that the 20A mods might be easier.
Look at this I'm actually contemplating modifying a controller myself. :lol:
I have exchanged E-mails with Doug at EV re: the new motor. Sounds like that will be a winter project at the least.
Last communication with Justin, they had 2X36V NiMH packs but with the new shipment of motors they might sell out quickly. (BTW good bloke that Justin)
I have found a wheel builder off island so at least that is good news
So Like yourself I am a bit stalled, but I do have the new bike to play with and the old one is still servicable.
Right now the quest is for a comfortable seat for the new bike and a return trip to the bike shop to get the disc brakes adjusted.
Best of luck with the details, sounds like it will all come together in time.
Sorry to here that things have kind of stalled for you
I know what you mean about being busy, what with the move to the farm and at work, I've been swamped designing for the last few weeks but things are off to the building department Mon. so the end is in sight. (at least until the building starts on this project LOL)
I went ahead and bought myself a new bike and reading about your build got me to rethinking going with the X-lyte 5 series I was contemplating. Especially after I rode the 1000ft hill up to the new property. I must say though the ride down was thrilling
I have sent a PM to Knoxie asking about the mods he made to the controller but haven't heard back. I would expect he is busy.
Do you happen to know the pros and cons of the 20A vs 35A controller in this application if they both work? It seemed from reading the thread that the 20A mods might be easier.
Look at this I'm actually contemplating modifying a controller myself. :lol:
I have exchanged E-mails with Doug at EV re: the new motor. Sounds like that will be a winter project at the least.
Last communication with Justin, they had 2X36V NiMH packs but with the new shipment of motors they might sell out quickly. (BTW good bloke that Justin)
I have found a wheel builder off island so at least that is good news
So Like yourself I am a bit stalled, but I do have the new bike to play with and the old one is still servicable.
Right now the quest is for a comfortable seat for the new bike and a return trip to the bike shop to get the disc brakes adjusted.
Best of luck with the details, sounds like it will all come together in time.
hey Guys,
yeh many good points there, Geoff thx for the heads up and what your saying about looking at nimh and having a spare batt setup once my lipo situation is sorted all makes good sense - still looking into nimh and really would like to get a modded controller off paul too - i think your right Greg he is just way busy (or on hols) as he had more than a few things to look at last i heard.
The x5 is a cracking motor by all accounts but if your getting one i would run the 35a controller for sure - xyster could tell you more about the motors characteristics but i think they can run any power you put in - look at lowells monster
you need to get the batts with a good discharge rate too to power it
its a case of what you need as ever, even though i know an x5 would be good in my bike it weighs the same as my whole setup now and my puma is torqier (imo) at lower speeds which is perfect for my application.
Justin at ebikes is sound as a pound i think we all agree there
Anyway get cracking with the builds - im living off everyone elses progress at the moment to get my fix!!!
and get some more video up all dammit!!!!
cheers
D
yeh many good points there, Geoff thx for the heads up and what your saying about looking at nimh and having a spare batt setup once my lipo situation is sorted all makes good sense - still looking into nimh and really would like to get a modded controller off paul too - i think your right Greg he is just way busy (or on hols) as he had more than a few things to look at last i heard.
The x5 is a cracking motor by all accounts but if your getting one i would run the 35a controller for sure - xyster could tell you more about the motors characteristics but i think they can run any power you put in - look at lowells monster
you need to get the batts with a good discharge rate too to power it
its a case of what you need as ever, even though i know an x5 would be good in my bike it weighs the same as my whole setup now and my puma is torqier (imo) at lower speeds which is perfect for my application.
Justin at ebikes is sound as a pound i think we all agree there
Anyway get cracking with the builds - im living off everyone elses progress at the moment to get my fix!!!
and get some more video up all dammit!!!!
cheers
D
Hi All,
i need some help please guys in the battery department.
As your aware if you followed my thread i have an issue with my point 1's not being able to supply 72v to the puma through the xlyte controller reliably.
i have made myself a new controller cover/seat and that is getting made this coming weekend hopefully (will post pic of mock up later) and im now really chomping at the bit to get the bike at least to a reasonable speed but have changed my expectations slightly to accomadate the kit i already have.
with the seat taken care of i now have to face the problem which stalled my build, there are some things happening in the background with puma and factory controller testing but i am preparing to draw a line under that and i need some advice on some new cells.
If the testing is unsucessful/unsatisfactory i am now resigned to selling my beloved point 1's and buying some new batteries but i'm unsure which direction to jump in.
Knoxie advises me that 72v35a is just too much for reliability with the version of puma i have, so i think my best option is to change my batteries to give me 48v35a so i need some input as to which cells are my best bet.
Also i need to know whether there is anything that can be done to reduce the power i have with my point 1's - by this i mean before i sell them is it possible to reduce the output from 72v to say 50 ? if this can be done can it be wired so that it is impossible for me to get a back voltage of more than 50v to protect my bms? i ask this as i really like my batts and if theres anything that can be done so i can keep them i would like to do so.
Dont forget they are sealed packs so i cant get to the bms to uprate it and as knoxie found this is no garantee of sucess anyhow.
please let me know what you guys think as i need to get this sorted out and finished as the bike has been in my spare room for 6 months now and i don't feel 36v does it justice, nimh not excluded so all opinions welcome!!!
cheers
D
i need some help please guys in the battery department.
As your aware if you followed my thread i have an issue with my point 1's not being able to supply 72v to the puma through the xlyte controller reliably.
i have made myself a new controller cover/seat and that is getting made this coming weekend hopefully (will post pic of mock up later) and im now really chomping at the bit to get the bike at least to a reasonable speed but have changed my expectations slightly to accomadate the kit i already have.
with the seat taken care of i now have to face the problem which stalled my build, there are some things happening in the background with puma and factory controller testing but i am preparing to draw a line under that and i need some advice on some new cells.
If the testing is unsucessful/unsatisfactory i am now resigned to selling my beloved point 1's and buying some new batteries but i'm unsure which direction to jump in.
Knoxie advises me that 72v35a is just too much for reliability with the version of puma i have, so i think my best option is to change my batteries to give me 48v35a so i need some input as to which cells are my best bet.
Also i need to know whether there is anything that can be done to reduce the power i have with my point 1's - by this i mean before i sell them is it possible to reduce the output from 72v to say 50 ? if this can be done can it be wired so that it is impossible for me to get a back voltage of more than 50v to protect my bms? i ask this as i really like my batts and if theres anything that can be done so i can keep them i would like to do so.
Dont forget they are sealed packs so i cant get to the bms to uprate it and as knoxie found this is no garantee of sucess anyhow.
please let me know what you guys think as i need to get this sorted out and finished as the bike has been in my spare room for 6 months now and i don't feel 36v does it justice, nimh not excluded so all opinions welcome!!!
cheers
D
BiGH
100 kW
deecanio said:
How about going to a 20a controller? would that make the 72v setup more reliable? did Knoxie say what would be unreliable at that power level? the other thing you could look at is modifying the controller to allow less current (adjustable current limiter)
48v @ 35a = 1680w
72v @ 20a = 1440w
thus lower power and therefore lower heat. Is it a voltage issue that the puma doesn't like or an outright power one?
If you were to run 72v 20a you could:
1. retain your point 1 lipos (only running them at 2c max)
2. lower the power delivery to the puma making it more reliable.
i'd want to hear what some of the more experienced guys think. Could you mod a 20a controller to do 15a? from my (limited) understanding this would also keep your no load speed high meaning that the motor will contribute (not much at 15-20a) even up to high speed
edit:
deecanio said:
if you run more batteries in series - the total amp draw is distributed amongst the packs in series ie:
if you pull 20a from one pack it drains the pack at 20a
if you pull 20a from 2 packs in series - it drains each pack at 10a.
the more packs in series the lower the amp draw from each pack therefore the longer each will last as the battery will provide more total power at 10a drain than it will at 20a.
dom
10 mW
Hi De -bummer man
You would still need to swap out the BMS for lower voltage -or do some fancy electronicry to it.
I remember reading awhile ago on the TF forum that these could be run in series -but i suppose that has been discussed already -will have to read your thread
This has been a looonnnnggg time for you to get this far De -pity this is holding you up.
Maybe some of those packs Ypedal is using would be the go -i'm sure your packs should have good resale.
Cheers
Dom
You would still need to swap out the BMS for lower voltage -or do some fancy electronicry to it.
I remember reading awhile ago on the TF forum that these could be run in series -but i suppose that has been discussed already -will have to read your thread
This has been a looonnnnggg time for you to get this far De -pity this is holding you up.
Maybe some of those packs Ypedal is using would be the go -i'm sure your packs should have good resale.
Cheers
Dom
dom
10 mW
Hi Bigh
So these do run OK in series at a lower amp? (sorry -haven't read all the thread yet)
Your suggestion of 72V20A would be perfect to get De up and humping if the batts can work at that current
Edit -yes Bigh explained the Ah stuff
I was suggesting 3S 2P to give you 72V(84v) 20Ah which would be good for a bit higher current.
Though i was half joking -would be hard to fit 6 of these on your bike -tho not impossible.
Cheers
Dom
So these do run OK in series at a lower amp? (sorry -haven't read all the thread yet)
Your suggestion of 72V20A would be perfect to get De up and humping if the batts can work at that current
Edit -yes Bigh explained the Ah stuff
I was suggesting 3S 2P to give you 72V(84v) 20Ah which would be good for a bit higher current.
Though i was half joking -would be hard to fit 6 of these on your bike -tho not impossible.
Cheers
Dom
BiGH
100 kW
dom said:Hi Bigh
So these do run OK in series at a lower amp? (sorry -haven't read all the thread yet)
Your suggestion of 72V20A would be perfect to get De up and humping if the batts can work at that current
Cheers
Dom
according to my understanding (i'm by no means an expert on this) but yes.
unless there are any bms issues i'm not aware of.
Thats what i'll be doing with may batteries from brett - i'm running 72v straight up, will be increasing batteries for serial connection to improve range.
dom
10 mW
Hi Bigh
Ahhh -so you will be getting some of the cobalts?
How many total will you get eventually?
I had to send one back to get the BMS fixed -but now the bike is going the best i've ever had it running.
Very good range out of them if you take it easy as well.
Well -De should get himself a 72V20A controller then if the batts BMS can handle that -he will fly.And they will last much longer cycle -wise
(i'm sure i suggested that about 2 years ago -LOL)
Cheers
Dom
Ahhh -so you will be getting some of the cobalts?
How many total will you get eventually?
I had to send one back to get the BMS fixed -but now the bike is going the best i've ever had it running.
Very good range out of them if you take it easy as well.
Well -De should get himself a 72V20A controller then if the batts BMS can handle that -he will fly.And they will last much longer cycle -wise
(i'm sure i suggested that about 2 years ago -LOL)
Cheers
Dom
lol - i think you did Dom but as per the throttle but,i had to noob it up large and go for the full grip 
ok i will have to have a read up myself (blows dust off thread) but i think Knoxie tried using the 20a controller with modded fets and variable current but the bms blew - the point 1's only have bms rated components at 55v and seem to get a kick back with the puma/xlyte combo.
i need to check my facts again as its been so long since i last looked it i've forgotten what paul has tried and what he hasn't.
i know maytag is running the same setup as i have at 55v quite happily but even he blew his controller (his modded one is fine) so it could be a problem with the motor or the xlyte controller or both when used together we just dont know yet.
Soooo agreeing with you Dom it's been a loooooonnnnng time to make this bike i would say my best bet is to follow maytags example and run at around 50v - i actually think that will be more than enough juice to nudge me near enough to 25mph and that will be plenty.
so i guess the real question is - while im waiting to see how the whole puma/lipo/xlyte saga pans out (my supplier may still help me out) i know im safe with ~50v so whats the best plan to get me there? paul suggested some sla to add to one of the lipo but im trying to make the bike look finished as in no lashing out!! i could buy more batts ?
cheers
D
ok i will have to have a read up myself (blows dust off thread) but i think Knoxie tried using the 20a controller with modded fets and variable current but the bms blew - the point 1's only have bms rated components at 55v and seem to get a kick back with the puma/xlyte combo.
i need to check my facts again as its been so long since i last looked it i've forgotten what paul has tried and what he hasn't.
i know maytag is running the same setup as i have at 55v quite happily but even he blew his controller (his modded one is fine) so it could be a problem with the motor or the xlyte controller or both when used together we just dont know yet.
Soooo agreeing with you Dom it's been a loooooonnnnng time to make this bike i would say my best bet is to follow maytags example and run at around 50v - i actually think that will be more than enough juice to nudge me near enough to 25mph and that will be plenty.
so i guess the real question is - while im waiting to see how the whole puma/lipo/xlyte saga pans out (my supplier may still help me out) i know im safe with ~50v so whats the best plan to get me there? paul suggested some sla to add to one of the lipo but im trying to make the bike look finished as in no lashing out!!
i could buy more batts ?cheers
D
xyster
10 MW
D -
You've invested tremendous time and effort into your ebike's unique physical design, and you're obviously a very patient person, I'm wondering why you don't just build the battery pack you want from bare cells?
You've invested tremendous time and effort into your ebike's unique physical design, and you're obviously a very patient person, I'm wondering why you don't just build the battery pack you want from bare cells?
xyster
10 MW
deecanio said:
I'd be happy to do it for some batteries.
But since I live half-a-world away, I don't how you'd trust me. And the shipping might be expensive.
BiGH
100 kW
well D considering ur options - i'd sell the packs straight away.
That way you can buy packs designed for what you want or build them out of say A123 dewalt cells. I wouldn't be cracking open expensive packs - better to sell them.
That way you can buy packs designed for what you want or build them out of say A123 dewalt cells. I wouldn't be cracking open expensive packs - better to sell them.
gwsaltspring
100 W
Dee
So is this what Knoxie was referring to awhile back when he suggested that the Puma was best run at 60V? Or is it strictly the 55V BMS components within your battery pack?
Like yourself I have been away from all of the e-bike stuff for awhile
Too busy riding my new pedal only bikes
So is this what Knoxie was referring to awhile back when he suggested that the Puma was best run at 60V? Or is it strictly the 55V BMS components within your battery pack?
Like yourself I have been away from all of the e-bike stuff for awhile
Too busy riding my new pedal only bikes
i think pauls 60v estimate was all things considered gw but again i need to read all the info paul has given me so i can be sure of where we are,not easy as i started a new job on monday and i've got shitloads on
bigh - i dont want to sell them straight away as my supplier may want me to return (i have asked him about this today) so i need to sit tight on the point 1's just a little longer.
xy - half a world away indeed, shame as i would give you the dollars to build me a superpack no worries - i dont want to see any wood though!!!
cheers
D
bigh - i dont want to sell them straight away as my supplier may want me to return (i have asked him about this today) so i need to sit tight on the point 1's just a little longer.
xy - half a world away indeed, shame as i would give you the dollars to build me a superpack no worries - i dont want to see any wood though!!!
cheers
D
xyster
10 MW
:lol:deecanio said:
No worries -- the duct tape would have hidden the wood.
Actually, I'd just solder the pack and any associated electrical, and let you box it however you wanted.
xyster
10 MW
I PM'd ya, D.
-X
-X
Jozzer
100 kW
And a new business is born :wink:
xyster
10 MW
Jozzer said:
Ain't capitalism grand? What do you think:
Xyster Power, LLC
BiGH
100 kW
xyster said:Jozzer said:
What do you think:
Xyster Power, LLC
I think its missing something
Xyster Power and Duct Tape LLC
