D's RC Drive Kona DC1

When I first started playing with the cheapo esc that I have with the standard heatsink fitted they were getting rather warm so I fitted much larger heatsinks to them and doubled up on the supply wires and that cooled things right down, max amps were set to 90 and playing around with very hard acceleration up hills and some slow tec riding the esc didn't miss a beat and also didn't appear to get any hotter than body temp, I know if I hadn't fitted those heat sinks then both of the cheap controllers that I have they would have crashed and burned big time a long time ago. I dont know how easy it would be to fit a large heatsink onto one of the castle controllers ( I have never seen one close up ) but I think it would be well worth looking into. As it can only improve the situation. Just a thought :D
 
Hi gwhy,

indeed, thanks for the heads up, i'm just going to fiddle with the settings first and see whats up, as matt sais limiting my amps may be doing more harm than good so i'll up them and see what gives, i'll have to watch the motor temp but it was good as gold yesterday hovering around 50-55 mostly so we'll see.
You guys know me, if it doesn't do what i want it'll back in over winter for another overhaul but i dont want to jump the gun, many good things here to test out fully and it may well turn out that a tweak here and there does the trick, not that i'm dissapointed you understand, i just haven't got it quite so yet :mrgreen:
pics and vids sooooooooon!!!!


Cheers,

D :mrgreen:
 
Hi Guys,

quick couple of questions, i have been having a tinker with my settings with the latest castlelink software and have made the PWM change from 26-13khz, i've also upped the amps on Richards throttle box, i think i've changed it to about 75a but im not sure as its not an exact science ;) anyway with the half turn i had to max i upped by a quarter, we'll see what that is once i've ridden again, sooo the questions...
there are new firmware updates available which i haven't used yet as they are all "beta" - is it safe to upgrade the firmware and if i do will it reset all my settings?
Secondly there is a setting something like "motor braking"? what does this do and what should i set it to? 0?

Cheers,


D
 
I have never had the firmware updates change my settings. So, you should be safe there. However, just to be sure, you may want to write down your current settings before you update the firmware.

Motor braking is just that, it is an electronic brake used to slow/slop the motor when the throttle is at zero. Just turn it off. It is not needed.

Matt
 
The latest software was made available on Wednesday. I think it is now v3.161. Beta is fine, and Matt is right, updating it won't affect your settings.

The PWM values available are 8kHz, 13kHz, 16kHz, 24kHz and "Outrunner Mode", which I'm guessing is some sort of high-rate auto function. I set mine to 16kHz and "Normal" timing.

Disable the brake function and disable current limiting as well. We always had to do this with the helicopters, which have big instant/peak loads, during 3D maneuvers.

I'd crank up Fechter's pot, and let her rip! :mrgreen:
 
Hi All,

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Hot Damn!!!!! What an amazing difference a few tweaks can make!!!!
I adjusted the PWM back down to 13Khz and also turned the motor braking off, then thought meh lets give the throttle box a tweak and turned it up as well, I had probably half a turn left to max so I turned it a quarter and went out for a ride, sheeeeeet that little motor pulls like a champ and I mean PULLS!!!
Initially after the first ride I had i was getting the esc up to 78c and pretty damn quickly too, say just half a minute of riding had the esc sweating and the motor not far behind.
On the new settings – OMG – continual bursts of use of the motor is only seeing the esc just above 60c and the motor maybe 55c – simply frikkin awesome!! I must put the PWM down to 8Khz and see if that keeps it all around 50c – you never know I might even be able to tweak Richards box to max then BUT even at this setting i'm hitting 95a!!
I took it for a ride on Friday and the torque is great, 1st 2nd 3rd gears all pull very very well with respective speeds of around 17,23,28mph - plenty fast enough for the trail and gobs of acceleration, not like matts ripper you understand but if your sitting you feel the front get very light, amazing.
I must say im uber impressed with the little 3210’s power, its better than my puma for acceleration and so light, quite an impressive piece of kit I must say, shit the 3220 must be a monster, next time eh? LOL
Anyway – running through the gears has advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages are obviously that you can select which gear to use for which hill and im not through them as quick as I thought I’d be, remember I just wanted 3 speed but because of trouble lining them up properly Bob put me to 8spd fw cassette and matching shifter and chain, weird thing is I actually have my three speed by just using first/second/third of the 8 speed cassette and it works just fine, on a flat road the speed of changing is fine, it kinda runs like a small electric crosser, hard acceleration change hard acceleration change etc I can even change under power though I try not to – at my current settings 1st/2nd/3rd is all I need, top end is just under 30 but it gets there fast and I really don’t need any more, stoked with my gearing :D
Disadvantages of my system are the inability to assist much, because the bike just takes off with throttle pedalling is only usable from a standing start or at the start of each gear uphill, at first this was a little disappointing as I do like to assist but I’m getting used to it now, when blazing under power if I happen across some peds and need stealth I simply stop throttling and drop 2 further gears and that puts me back to being able to pedal at the speed the motor left me at, however the speed quickly drops as the drag is very significant from the 219 chain even though im not backdriving the motor due to Matts cunning freewheel in the large pulley.
I’m not sure if this sole problem will bug me to the point that I change drive system again but for now I can deal with it as its not causing me too much of a problem as im pedalling far fless LOL - must say this system is way more efficient too, although now i'm kicking 95a its about even with the puma :)
One other problem I’m having is the bicycle chain, it’s holding up just fine to the 2.8kw i'm putting through it at the moment but it keeps jumping off the front ring when the trail gets bumpy, irritating as I normally like to be standing but the problem doesn’t occur as much if I remain seated.I think I will buy a dh chain guide, the type that bolts to the frame swingarm and keeps the chain on the front ring,both above and below, certainly worth a go I think.
Anyway to summarise I am stoked with how the bike is performing, the main goal for losing my hub has been achieved in that I can hit jumps no problems and with no weight in the rear wheel it really does feel sweet when both wheels leave the ground only to softly cushion back down again, simply sweet, once I get this damn chain issue sorted I really feel like I’ll be able to give it some beans and see what it can really do but for now im happy sitting and just blazing down the trails on it, a quite simply lovely ride.
I’ve popped some pics up for you guys to see how she is coming along, I do have some vids but they are very large and are only of me testing in my garage and a quick walkaround so i've converted them to phone format (shit) but at least i can upload them for you to see, im only usng a broadband dongle at the mo.
I’ll post up more soon – in fact I’ll take the small shitty camera out with me tomorrow and see if I can get some 3rd person footage by leaving it on the floor somewhere, the quality isn’t great on that cam but it is easy to post up on youtube as its quite small in comparison to the vids I shot.

So all in all im very happy, the bike is running well and once I get these minor niggles sorted it’ll be ass kickingly good!!!!!

Thanks to all you guys who’ve helped steer me down the rc route, this gear is something else!!!!!



Cheers,


D
 

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more shots but outside and clearer :)

D
 

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[youtube]nojOG8REDXU[/youtube]
 
[youtube]9FOXH6LnepI[/youtube]
 
Glad you've got it tuned in now, D. :mrgreen:

Now you know why I was banging on so much about the need to match the motor drive speed at the cranks to the cadence... :wink:

Maybe a double freewheel on the crank axle, next?

Looking forward to having a go on this thing, sometime :)
 
Hi Miles :)

yes i was hearing your words as my cadence failed miserably LOL
on the upside the bike is much quicker than before and also no unsprung weight at all - hopefully i'll get some riding vid tomorrow to show you - of course your welcome to ride it anytime, come to jozzbikes meet this year? i have a bigger car now, can take you there and home no problem at all :mrgreen:
yes ideally i'd love to have double freewheel so all my gearing is bogo on the right and then on the left a direct drive from a 3220, that would be amazing, ah well im stoked to ride it as is so maybe next season, but definately that would be the winning ticket, best of both worlds, these little motors are quite something!!!


D
 
Hi D,

:D :D
Miles said:
Maybe a double freewheel on the crank axle, next?

Now you know why I was banging on so much about the need to match the motor's gearing to the cadence :wink:

The Bimoto Crank?

Another improvement might be #25 chain. Probably less chain drag and more motor reduction to better match cadence.
 
Hi Mitch :mrgreen:

yes indeed very happy, its good, very good,but im still looking at the independant normal drive and motor drive, thats the way for me to go this winter, for now im totally happy using it like an electric mini crosser, awesome :mrgreen:
i think i misunderstood you miles, did you mean simply make the extron sprocket freewheel so it didn't affect pedaling? that would be much easier?

D
 
mmmmmmmm that would so do me until i get around to independant direct drive, that would let me pedal as per normal and have use of the gears whilst using the motor :D i'll be thinking about it as i fall asleep, it may be too much hassle to change my crank now though, maybe just an eno on the extron?
lol already thinking of improvements ;)

Cheers

D
 
D,

The drag you are experiencing is something I knew would happen. It is not your use of the 219 chain. It is the really tiny sprocket you are using on the jackshaft that (while you are pedalling) is turning the jackshaft through those large bearings, then spinning the freewheel, and that freewheel has some side loading on it from the belt tension. So, all those things together are giving you the drag. If you change chain type, the drag will remain. You would need to move to a two stage drive with the standard freewheel on the output sprocket layout to make for easy pedalling.

Matt

THE RC REVOLUTION IS HERE! :mrgreen:
 
Well done! Glad to see you're finally reaping the rewards from all your work :mrgreen:
 
Hi Matt,

recumpence said:
D,

You gotta change your Avatar now. :mrgreen:

Matt

And you would recommend this photo?:
file.php
 
Regarding the double freewheeling crankset:

You could start again with the Bimoto.

You could use the design that I've just worked out over breakfast, that doesn't require such a large offset for the RH crank.... It would still need a longer axle, though, which would probably mean abandoning the ISIS fixing and therefore new cranks.
 
Hi All,

thanks for the comments and suggestions please keep them coming.
All i need to do is let my pedals run free and im set, i dont want to make any changes other than that for the immediate future, the bike is running well so the only other aspect im interested in now is some winterproofing :)
Miles please elaborate on the breakfast idea? :lol: as i say cadence doesn't have to match at all i just need free pedaling as an option.
i'll be buying later a couple of chanstay tensioners to keep the bike chain in check, i think thats all it needs really then i'll be able to get up on the pedals more which is my prefered position to ride.
the dual stage is an idea which would be relatively easy to retro fit, given my extron is 11t-90t i think if i had a dual stage drive with a 15t freewheel to 55t chainring would that mean that my second stage would only need to be 3-1? also could i run a second stage belt?
meh, there are always more questions than answers!!
now wheres that bloody camera gone ? time for a ride!!!


Cheers,

D
 
Hi Miles, Guys,

whats the ENO at sickbikes Miles/ something other than the norm? what i need is a dual ENO :twisted:
By the way guys i managed to take my camera today :D so this is for all of you who have helped me build my bike, by the gods it's very close to what i dreamed of all that time ago watching knoxie's bmx vids - must catch up with him and show him the results of his inspiration from back in the day, hopefully this vid will spur others on to building their own too.
Must say MASSIVE thanks to Jozzer, he is the man 8) not forgetting Bob, my only trusted mechanic for making all my bike run sweet as, the brakes, running gear, guards, gears, you did a fine job too m8 :wink: (by the way a ride in the woods is all yours dude whenever you want to come visit!!!).
Also to the guys here on ES - you know who you are, thank you so much for all the help with parts, calculations, feedback and of course your own inspiring builds.

Sooooo...... at long last some vids of the DC1 in action, taken today - sorry for the dark section at the end, i was losing light fast, also it's a bit repetative but my camera girl was out today so i was on my own - hope you all enjoy!!!! :lol: 8) :mrgreen:


C :mrgreen: eers,


D


[youtube]mLlh5SQiWhc[/youtube]
 
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