AussieJester
1 TW
Well surely you have a metal file Deec only take a few minutes to resize a allen key to work :-S
KiM
KiM
D's RC Drive Kona DC1
- Thread starter deecanio
- Start date
AussieJester
1 TW
Deec Deec Deec!!! GREAT NEWS!!!! Was on the phone to Matt.P this evening and hes going to try to convert a skyway tuff wheel into a pulley for the rear of his mountain bike build!!!! YES he is going to go with a Turnigy 130kv belt drive from motor direct to the 24in rear wheel no reduction drive!!! Lookz like i succeeded in keeping one more frock motor off the road hehehe 
Well..all hinges on how well Matt goes turning the skyway tuff down on the lathe in the next few days, be a pulley with over 100 teeth on it for around 15:1 reduction i think he said! ...:: fingers crossed ::
Any luck finding the allen keys mate?
KiM
Well..all hinges on how well Matt goes turning the skyway tuff down on the lathe in the next few days, be a pulley with over 100 teeth on it for around 15:1 reduction i think he said! ...:: fingers crossed ::Any luck finding the allen keys mate?
KiM
Hi AJ,
no mate, after filing down a 3/32 key to a toothpick i decided a different aproach was needed. looking for odd keys in my toolbox (not that i hadnt already looked) i found my balls, oh and 3/32 drill bit
all parts are off now, sorted.
Looking forward to seeing what matts up to, skyway tuffs were revered back in my bmx days im wondering what he's going to do with it? cant picture how he is using one?
D
no mate, after filing down a 3/32 key to a toothpick i decided a different aproach was needed. looking for odd keys in my toolbox (not that i hadnt already looked) i found my balls, oh and 3/32 drill bit
all parts are off now, sorted.
Looking forward to seeing what matts up to, skyway tuffs were revered back in my bmx days im wondering what he's going to do with it? cant picture how he is using one?
D
etard
100 kW
Thud did something similar with the Skyways on his BMX. It didn't look too difficult, well at least not with a full shop full of milling tools. :lol:
D,
Sorry about the delays on the sprocket man, I'm having a helluva time trying to hurry my man at the machine shop along without sounding ungrateful.
Hopefully this weekend I will have a steel sprocket to show you, I had him put huge lightening treatment ( shoulda went holes) like Luke suggested on disk brake pattern. Aperently it's not as easy as it looks, there are quite a few steps from how he describes to get the profile of teeth correctly meshing with the chain. I think I will post an Asuza group buy again to see if I can get more takers. That was actually a really good deal considering material on the sprockets is costing the same as the finished product for me. :?
D,
Sorry about the delays on the sprocket man, I'm having a helluva time trying to hurry my man at the machine shop along without sounding ungrateful.
Hopefully this weekend I will have a steel sprocket to show you, I had him put huge lightening treatment ( shoulda went holes) like Luke suggested on disk brake pattern. Aperently it's not as easy as it looks, there are quite a few steps from how he describes to get the profile of teeth correctly meshing with the chain. I think I will post an Asuza group buy again to see if I can get more takers. That was actually a really good deal considering material on the sprockets is costing the same as the finished product for me. :?
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:
Hes making it into a pulley deec, it will bolt onto the hub of the wheel on the mountain bike like a...a pulley! EXACTLY like we both use now on our crusiers! getting a 100 plus tooth pulley off the shelf isn't possible, Matt has acess to BIG lathe so he will put the tuff in there and turn it down, edges off the rim etc....then apply epoxy teeth like we have done on the custom pulleys we both use now, he is doing exactly what you wanted to do Deec, direct drive from RC motor to back wheel no reduction drives! hes going to use a broached eno to connect the tuff/pulley too and have manual pedal also, howver he isn't as fussed as your good self about pedaling, we dont get into that like those in the Motherland we let the motor do the works here in the Colony
KiM
Hi guys,
i get the pulley i just couldn't picture what he was going to do with a tuff to make it into a puley, mostly the mounting to the normal wheel?
no reduction will be ineteresting to see unfold, if he had a 150t he'd need a 10 on the motor, that would take some tesioning to get the bite required to drive i would have thought? i would love a direct belt drive, uber nice.
Etard , keep me posted on the sprockets, Thud made me an adapter (thx again T) and sprocket for the 3220 shaft so direct drive is still an option.
i'll keep an eye on what Matt P thinks with direct drive and take a sprocket from you for that route to try at some stage.
As things are i managed to get the motor pulley off with a drill which allowed me to measure up for the reduction unit fitting and check my guesswork as what passes what and how much travel that allows.
heres some shots of the planned setup - if this works for me it will work for Drewjets DK ( provided he switch to 24's) too so fingers crossed.
the pulley in the pics is a 60 something, when this is swapped out for a black 50 it will look very nice and also help with fitting, talking of which looking at everything in its place today im confident i can arrange this setup even if i need modded drive parts, which of course leads to Matts version 3 :wink:
theres a bit of tweeking to be done with tube lengths, sprocket alignment etc but even with standard parts it looks pheasible - with everything bolted on as you see here i can bounce my full weight on the bike no problems, i know it will submerge a lot more on drops and jumps i have about 2" clear travel VERY near the pivot, this equates to much more of course at the wheel itself so i think it will be plenty plush, well see.
The motor arm you see will be replaced with matts double motor arm, im hoping this will be long enugh to the motor under and behind the bb, a freind mentioned ground clearence but with a 42t sprocket on the crank its no lower than the chainring really.once ive replaced the arm with the dual motor im podering using the single arm on the other side to hold my fabbed tensioner, but better make sure it all works before i get too far ahead.
The wheel will be back, built in a week or so and fingers crossed the drive parts wont be too far behind so hopefully ill be tesing it all out soon, oh and Mike has first dibs on the 3210
D
i get the pulley i just couldn't picture what he was going to do with a tuff to make it into a puley, mostly the mounting to the normal wheel?
no reduction will be ineteresting to see unfold, if he had a 150t he'd need a 10 on the motor, that would take some tesioning to get the bite required to drive i would have thought? i would love a direct belt drive, uber nice.
Etard , keep me posted on the sprockets, Thud made me an adapter (thx again T) and sprocket for the 3220 shaft so direct drive is still an option.
i'll keep an eye on what Matt P thinks with direct drive and take a sprocket from you for that route to try at some stage.
As things are i managed to get the motor pulley off with a drill which allowed me to measure up for the reduction unit fitting and check my guesswork as what passes what and how much travel that allows.
heres some shots of the planned setup - if this works for me it will work for Drewjets DK ( provided he switch to 24's) too so fingers crossed.
the pulley in the pics is a 60 something, when this is swapped out for a black 50 it will look very nice and also help with fitting, talking of which looking at everything in its place today im confident i can arrange this setup even if i need modded drive parts, which of course leads to Matts version 3 :wink:
theres a bit of tweeking to be done with tube lengths, sprocket alignment etc but even with standard parts it looks pheasible - with everything bolted on as you see here i can bounce my full weight on the bike no problems, i know it will submerge a lot more on drops and jumps i have about 2" clear travel VERY near the pivot, this equates to much more of course at the wheel itself so i think it will be plenty plush, well see.
The motor arm you see will be replaced with matts double motor arm, im hoping this will be long enugh to the motor under and behind the bb, a freind mentioned ground clearence but with a 42t sprocket on the crank its no lower than the chainring really.once ive replaced the arm with the dual motor im podering using the single arm on the other side to hold my fabbed tensioner, but better make sure it all works before i get too far ahead.
The wheel will be back, built in a week or so and fingers crossed the drive parts wont be too far behind so hopefully ill be tesing it all out soon, oh and Mike has first dibs on the 3210
D
Attachments
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:
IIRC Matt worked out the gearing 15:1 and it was 18tooth pulley on the motor...
Have you seen Burties thread with the wye delta Astro yet Deec? MIght not be too happy when you
"Now for the suprise.....
No load current in Wye was 0.6 Amps.
No load current in Delta was 3.4 Amps :?
Edit- While I was typing this I left the motor running about half speed in Delta with no load and it got very very hot in about 5 minutes -like water boiled off when the outside was made wet! (it is now cooling down wrapped in a wet rag :| ). "
Can checkout rest of the thread here Deec http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=13760&p=244442#p244442
KiM
mwkeefer
1 MW
But D...
How can increasing top end (once moving) by 1.73 : 1 be bad or
how can increasing low end torque 1.73:1 be bad?
-Mike
How can increasing top end (once moving) by 1.73 : 1 be bad or
how can increasing low end torque 1.73:1 be bad?
-Mike
liveforphysics
100 TW
mwkeefer said:
If you've only got X amount of current available to supply, then what you're saying is true. If you're not current limited, the Delta configuration is capable of just as much torque as the wye configuration, it just requires 1.73 times the current to make it happen. Otherwise, the wye termination is just a lower power (because of lower RPM) version of delta.
Cough, cough, cough, so dusty here.
hi all,
So i recieved a packag of love from our cousins across the pond and everything is looking MUCH better
first things first tho,In order to get running i need a wider bb
- does anyone know where i can order a wide bb that fits a 68mm shell?
at the moment there is this http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=107&osCsid=63783c04f426414fb8104aa8d79368a7
which is 15mm, that would do the trick i suspect but i cant find what size shell it fits, at the moment i have a splined 128mm which is just too short to run my belt down the inside of the crank (i'll post of some pics of my setup for this year once i get my pc working properly, but im desperate to order the bb no so i know i can carry on with the build now - im not bothered if its splined, square taper or whatever, just needs to fit a 68/73mm bb.
Secondly, i need to order a gt belt, can you guys advise how i order it? im guessing that i need to get some string and find out the lentgh i need? is that how it works? UK site would be best for me but as the bb will prolly come from the US no biggy.
Oh thirdly, a dumb question but can someone tell me how i wire up the 3220? six wire 3 blue/3black - because they are not sensored can you just connect them up in any order? im guessing i need to use the black wires?
HELP!!!!!
D
hi all,
So i recieved a packag of love from our cousins across the pond and everything is looking MUCH better
first things first tho,In order to get running i need a wider bb
- does anyone know where i can order a wide bb that fits a 68mm shell?at the moment there is this http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=107&osCsid=63783c04f426414fb8104aa8d79368a7
which is 15mm, that would do the trick i suspect but i cant find what size shell it fits, at the moment i have a splined 128mm which is just too short to run my belt down the inside of the crank (i'll post of some pics of my setup for this year once i get my pc working properly, but im desperate to order the bb no so i know i can carry on with the build now - im not bothered if its splined, square taper or whatever, just needs to fit a 68/73mm bb.
Secondly, i need to order a gt belt, can you guys advise how i order it? im guessing that i need to get some string and find out the lentgh i need? is that how it works? UK site would be best for me but as the bb will prolly come from the US no biggy.
Oh thirdly, a dumb question but can someone tell me how i wire up the 3220? six wire 3 blue/3black - because they are not sensored can you just connect them up in any order? im guessing i need to use the black wires?
HELP!!!!!
D
AussieJester
1 TW
Sooo.. anyone want to take bets on Deec not riding this summer If a 3220 doesnt rip the shit out of that first stage belt drive, i will immediately lose all respect for astro motors Mr Recumpence SiR :wink:
KiM
If a 3220 doesnt rip the shit out of that first stage belt drive, i will immediately lose all respect for astro motors Mr Recumpence SiR :wink: KiM
AussieJester
1 TW
^^^I edited it... then i thought hrmmmmz its Deec SOCCER player must be bit of a woos & limp wristed, sooo your belt setup will prolly survive, and seeing its a underpowered Astro (compared to BIG Turnigy) <--Baiting Matt.S You will prolly be good to go Deec :lol:
KiM
p.s still dont see you having a bike to ride thats electric powered this summer
must be bit of a woos & limp wristed, sooo your belt setup will prolly survive, and seeing its a underpowered Astro (compared to BIG Turnigy) <--Baiting Matt.S You will prolly be good to go Deec :lol: KiM
p.s still dont see you having a bike to ride thats electric powered this summer
Thud
1 MW
D,
if you hook all your blue wires together, & then power the motor through the black wires you have WYE.
Hook eack blue to it's black brother & power through the pr & you have DELTA (a manly configuration) there was a post somewhere on here with the info... have fun. T
if you hook all your blue wires together, & then power the motor through the black wires you have WYE.
Hook eack blue to it's black brother & power through the pr & you have DELTA (a manly configuration) there was a post somewhere on here with the info... have fun. T
recumpence
1 GW
Deec,
For Delta, you want to run the two wired out of each hole in parrallel with each other so you have 3 sets of two wires each (one black, one blue per ESC lead). For wye, you would take any 3 of the same color wires (we will use blue for sake of discussion) and tie those 3 blue wires together and put that tied group aside. Then you run the 3 black wires to the 3 ESC wires.
Is that understandable? I have a hard time describing some of those things. :wink:
Kim,
Wait till you see the two hand made, prototype motors I have sitting on my bench to be wound. You will promptly drool on your keyboard and mess yourself requiring much person hygenic attention.
Nuff said.............
Matt
For Delta, you want to run the two wired out of each hole in parrallel with each other so you have 3 sets of two wires each (one black, one blue per ESC lead). For wye, you would take any 3 of the same color wires (we will use blue for sake of discussion) and tie those 3 blue wires together and put that tied group aside. Then you run the 3 black wires to the 3 ESC wires.
Is that understandable? I have a hard time describing some of those things. :wink:
Kim,
Wait till you see the two hand made, prototype motors I have sitting on my bench to be wound. You will promptly drool on your keyboard and mess yourself requiring much person hygenic attention.
Nuff said.............
Matt
Dingo2024
100 W
deecanio said:Cough, cough, cough, so dusty here.
hi all,
So i recieved a packag of love from our cousins across the pond and everything is looking MUCH better
first things first tho,In order to get running i need a wider bb
at the moment there is this http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=107&osCsid=63783c04f426414fb8104aa8d79368a7
which is 15mm, that would do the trick i suspect but i cant find what size shell it fits, at the moment i have a splined 128mm which is just too short to run my belt down the inside of the crank (i'll post of some pics of my setup for this year once i get my pc working properly, but im desperate to order the bb no so i know i can carry on with the build now - im not bothered if its splined, square taper or whatever, just needs to fit a 68/73mm bb.
Secondly, i need to order a gt belt, can you guys advise how i order it? im guessing that i need to get some string and find out the lentgh i need? is that how it works? UK site would be best for me but as the bb will prolly come from the US no biggy.
Oh thirdly, a dumb question but can someone tell me how i wire up the 3220? six wire 3 blue/3black - because they are not sensored can you just connect them up in any order? im guessing i need to use the black wires?
HELP!!!!!
D
HI D,
the only bottom bracket I know that is definitely wider is the one cyclone sells which is 153mm I think; but square drive......
http://eclipsebikes.com/153mm-cartridge-bottom-bracket-p-996.html cheap enough if it works :wink:
I looked for ages to find a wider isis splined bb bracket and came up with zip
hope this helps
Ian
AussieJester
1 TW
recumpence said:Deec,
Kim,
Wait till you see the two hand made, prototype motors I have sitting on my bench to be wound. You will promptly drool on your keyboard and mess yourself requiring much person hygienic attention.
Nuff said.............
Matt
BWAHAHAA...
i do that most times you post pics Matt nothing new there :lol: Looking forward to seeing the motors Matt i have no doubt they will be
impressive mate
KiM
I'll probably take two of those motors for my motoped conversion 
but first things first, i must get this damn kona finished and working before i ask someone to pick me up a chassis from santa cruz.
Ian,
thanks for the link, ordered.Your pic shows that its 68mm which is perfect, an uk supplied, score!!
Square taper doesn't worry me one bit, i have a suitable 3 speed crank ready to slot straight on, i'll be using three up front to the single 16t eno at the back, i did play with the idea of using 4 speed from my cluster and a freecrank upfront but im happier with the idea that all freewheeling takes place at the wheel, looking at my "new" chain from the crank drive system tells me this is a better idea.
Matt,
thanks for the parts, very pretty as ever and nice job on the packaging!! very pro - going back to the delta/wye thing, think i get it, twin the wires for delta, group one colour and use the singles for wye yes? i want the same as the 3210 - delta??
Does it matter which pair goes to which colour on the esc? i thought not as its sensorless but no harm checking.
What size are the screws that hold the motor to the arm??? i only have one but in this configuration i can get all 4 into the motor which would be much better given the up in power - hopefully i can get these locally, im trying to get all the parts here to save time.
oh belts!! - how do i measure up to get the right size and do you know any uk vendors? i only know they are gt(2)? belts, can someone steer me here - do you guys think i will shred it with a 3220 then? i dont have the time to change to chain now.
One more thing,lol if the 153mm bb doesn't clear (i think it will) could i machine off the pulley shoulders and re-drill and tap straight down the centre of the pulley to make them slimmer?? tolerances are VERY tight so it would be nice to have the option.
OK, so i still plan to shove the belt down the inside of the crank, all clearences work and i am able to shave some off the arm etc if i need a wee bit more, however i've mocked up and checked and double checked that i have full clearence on the suspension, works like a charm the bike just bobs up and down with full weight and the astro sits nice and snug under the bb.
The plan as you see is to use all three brackets supplied by Matt to hold the foot exactly where i need it, this is a bit of a black art but it does work, i know one of our members had issues with the slippage but i figure if everything works out and thats the only issue i have i will drop some bar down the seattube and drill clean through to secure.
............................
some pics here for you to shoot down now guys but don't ask me about clearence, everything clears (just) and my suspension is NOT impeded - woohoo!!! now throw those spanners!!!!!
but first things first, i must get this damn kona finished and working before i ask someone to pick me up a chassis from santa cruz.
Ian,
thanks for the link, ordered.Your pic shows that its 68mm which is perfect, an uk supplied, score!!
Square taper doesn't worry me one bit, i have a suitable 3 speed crank ready to slot straight on, i'll be using three up front to the single 16t eno at the back, i did play with the idea of using 4 speed from my cluster and a freecrank upfront but im happier with the idea that all freewheeling takes place at the wheel, looking at my "new" chain from the crank drive system tells me this is a better idea.
Matt,
thanks for the parts, very pretty as ever and nice job on the packaging!! very pro
- going back to the delta/wye thing, think i get it, twin the wires for delta, group one colour and use the singles for wye yes? i want the same as the 3210 - delta??Does it matter which pair goes to which colour on the esc? i thought not as its sensorless but no harm checking.
What size are the screws that hold the motor to the arm??? i only have one but in this configuration i can get all 4 into the motor which would be much better given the up in power - hopefully i can get these locally, im trying to get all the parts here to save time.
oh belts!! - how do i measure up to get the right size and do you know any uk vendors? i only know they are gt(2)? belts, can someone steer me here - do you guys think i will shred it with a 3220 then? i dont have the time to change to chain now.
One more thing,lol if the 153mm bb doesn't clear (i think it will) could i machine off the pulley shoulders and re-drill and tap straight down the centre of the pulley to make them slimmer?? tolerances are VERY tight so it would be nice to have the option.
OK, so i still plan to shove the belt down the inside of the crank, all clearences work and i am able to shave some off the arm etc if i need a wee bit more, however i've mocked up and checked and double checked that i have full clearence on the suspension, works like a charm
the bike just bobs up and down with full weight and the astro sits nice and snug under the bb.The plan as you see is to use all three brackets supplied by Matt to hold the foot exactly where i need it, this is a bit of a black art but it does work, i know one of our members had issues with the slippage but i figure if everything works out and thats the only issue i have i will drop some bar down the seattube and drill clean through to secure.
............................
some pics here for you to shoot down now guys but don't ask me about clearence, everything clears (just) and my suspension is NOT impeded - woohoo!!! now throw those spanners!!!!!
Attachments
PowerGrip GT3. I get mine from these guys http://www.beeline.co.uk/gates-drive-belts.aspx They will split off belts to any width you like.deecanio said:
For length/C.D. calculations, see here: http://www.sdp-si.com/cd/default.htm
Hi dbaker,
thanks, yes cg is great, im not too concerned on clearence either, for the motor to take a smash in the face the offending obstacle needs to get past a 54t front which is lower still by half inch so its fairly safe.
That said i only have a 42t available on the current crankset so it will be exposed whilst i test at least, but again nothing to worry about, i have just over 10" from ground to motor.
i have a few issues that can be resolved with new parts, but im wanting to test it first, tune it later, to that end im using my shortened crankset for best clearence, plus its square taper, i also quite like the short stroke (insert joke here) if all runs well ill get another roadie, the current one has too straighter cranks to use and is also spined.
i need to make a few other ammendments too, like skinier tyres etc but i will have a much better idea once the bb arrives and i can fit the cranks, then it'll be chainline shananagans
anyway no show stoppers in sight so i need to order up some taps/bits etc, now ive got myself a bench i can drill and tap without it taking me a week to get it done, one bit of machining i do need is facing off the pulleys, if Matt ok's the drilling straight into the pulley method, this would help no end with clearences which are rascal tight at the mo.
D
thanks, yes cg is great, im not too concerned on clearence either, for the motor to take a smash in the face the offending obstacle needs to get past a 54t front which is lower still by half inch so its fairly safe.
That said i only have a 42t available on the current crankset so it will be exposed whilst i test at least, but again nothing to worry about, i have just over 10" from ground to motor.
i have a few issues that can be resolved with new parts, but im wanting to test it first, tune it later, to that end im using my shortened crankset for best clearence, plus its square taper, i also quite like the short stroke (insert joke here) if all runs well ill get another roadie, the current one has too straighter cranks to use and is also spined.
i need to make a few other ammendments too, like skinier tyres etc but i will have a much better idea once the bb arrives and i can fit the cranks, then it'll be chainline shananagans
anyway no show stoppers in sight so i need to order up some taps/bits etc, now ive got myself a bench i can drill and tap without it taking me a week to get it done, one bit of machining i do need is facing off the pulleys, if Matt ok's the drilling straight into the pulley method, this would help no end with clearences which are rascal tight at the mo.
D
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:
if you insist :lol: "no point long stroking a short 'appendage'"
KiM
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