E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[nevermnd]

Thanks guys!
I'm just another KTM convert
Sold an RFS 450 and a 250 2-smoke, riding a Bomber is so addicting!
The concept of leaving your house and go riding off road trails is mind blowing (I live in large city).
No more loading, towing or packing half of the garage with you, just to be stuck driving for 2h trying to get to the trails.
LHRB is the bomb!!!

Looking at your comment reminds me of...me. When I First got my Bomber, I rode the hell out of it way more than my 09 XCXF450 and my 08SXF250 with the HT Racing 320 big bore kit. After about 4 month of owning the Bomber, I had only ridden my gassers once, and sold them. They weren't getting used. This year, I sold my Beta Evo 250 trials bike, because I suck at trials, and I only rode it once this year. I have a very busy life, 50-60 hours every week is dedicated to the job unfortunately, so between the job, my 2 year old and off time, I don't get much. I still ride several days a week because the Bomber is at the house, I have an hour here, 30 minutes there, I just get on and go. I am less than 5 minutes away from the dirt/lava rock invested terrain in any direction I ride. Life is good.
Rick

Out of all the great people that contribute to this thread, you were definitelly the one that help me pull the trigger on the Bomber order . Maybe Stealth will send you a "Thank You" card and comission check

Nothing like someone with extensive dir bike background being so vocal and passionate about Stealth product.
I realize that there are many more guys participating in this thread that also came off dirt bikes - but I think they are riding too much and don't have time to contribute to this thread

I also have to ask this:
How many of you are carrying a massive 22mm combination wrench or a 22mm socket + big ratchet wrench in case you get a flat and need to change the rear tube?

Pushing a 100lbs bomber back when I'm 20 miles away on a deserted trail is not very appealing to me.

Marek

 

[Justtoby]

I bought an extendable ratchet and 22mm socket in case of bad flat or loose wheel but remember you do not need to take the whole wheel off to repair a puncture, just pull the tyre off one side repair and replace, no need to remove the whole tube from the wheel, just "nudge it to one side" (like all the best things in life :wink: )

On the point of the ca going funny in the rain, it is unlikely to be the ca and more likely to be one of the hall connectors. It actually turned out to be a joint inside the frame on mine where water was pooling below the battery but I waterproofed the hall connectors with self amalgamating plumbers tape anyway. (d logic posted some lovely RS waterproof connectors ages back in this thread, I bought those and that fixed it) double check all connectors and take battery out to look.

 

[dh-paule]

"2-smoke" never heard but sounds good

lets see what my gasser friends say

 

[invisibleman]

Hey guys,

I want to replace the stock bomber shock with the Marzocchi 888 CR. Below is a link for reference. Anybody know of any issues with these or have any input good or bad? I assume they should fit nicely. I spoke to a DH guy over at bikeco.com who said he has a set and loves them. Just wanted to check with the rest of you before I make the purchase. The stock ones are fine for normal dirt roads but are not getting the job done on some bumpy or rocky trails.

Marzocchi 888 CR
http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailProdotti.asp?LN=UK&idIU=2463&idC=1629&IdFolder=113&uf=IU&IdOggetto=60700

 

[Rix]

Thanks guys!
I'm just another KTM convert
Sold an RFS 450 and a 250 2-smoke, riding a Bomber is so addicting!
The concept of leaving your house and go riding off road trails is mind blowing (I live in large city).
No more loading, towing or packing half of the garage with you, just to be stuck driving for 2h trying to get to the trails.
LHRB is the bomb!!!

Looking at your comment reminds me of...me. When I First got my Bomber, I rode the hell out of it way more than my 09 XCXF450 and my 08SXF250 with the HT Racing 320 big bore kit. After about 4 month of owning the Bomber, I had only ridden my gassers once, and sold them. They weren't getting used. This year, I sold my Beta Evo 250 trials bike, because I suck at trials, and I only rode it once this year. I have a very busy life, 50-60 hours every week is dedicated to the job unfortunately, so between the job, my 2 year old and off time, I don't get much. I still ride several days a week because the Bomber is at the house, I have an hour here, 30 minutes there, I just get on and go. I am less than 5 minutes away from the dirt/lava rock invested terrain in any direction I ride. Life is good.
Rick

Out of all the great people that contribute to this thread, you were definitelly the one that help me pull the trigger on the Bomber order . Maybe Stealth will send you a "Thank You" card and comission check

Nothing like someone with extensive dir bike background being so vocal and passionate about Stealth product.
I realize that there are many more guys participating in this thread that also came off dirt bikes - but I think they are riding too much and don't have time to contribute to this thread

I also have to ask this:
How many of you are carrying a massive 22mm combination wrench or a 22mm socket + big ratchet wrench in case you get a flat and need to change the rear tube?

Pushing a 100lbs bomber back when I'm 20 miles away on a deserted trail is not very appealing to me.

Marek

Marek, thank you for the kind words and glad I could assist with your already wise decision to get a bomber . Not trying chant like a Zen Master, but the bomber and along with this thread contribute to my mental health in a good way. As far as tools go, I carry a stubby 6 inch handle cresent wrench that can adjust out to 27mm. Its more compact than socket wrench and works well for the axles when they came loose before I built my torque arm. But for your concners of flatting, I switched to running motorcycle tires, 9 months now, zero flats. I will take that with a smile.

Invisible man, I am running the 2012 version of this fork. It is a great improvment over the RSTs. Lowbank had his revalved by Avalanche racing and probably has the absolute best fork on a bomber now. I think the top stock fork out there are the Fox 40s and Manitous Dorado Pros, but the zochs are solid good units. For the money, probably cant be beat. As pointed out, Chris King makes the best 1 1/8th headset around with their DH Stainless Steel units.

 

[MAFIA]

so the recommended is the steelset or aluminum or titanium are good two?

 

[dh-paule]

stainless steel set is the perfect one

 

[Athaneco]

stealth bomber top speed drive by.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXaD2tfra4Y



the most advanced protective riding gear was used for this video, -dont try this at home-.

 

[Rix]

stainless steel set is the perfect one

What Paule said, the stainless steel is the best and toughest. Not the lightest, but who cares about an ounce or three on a 100+ pound mean machine

 

[Rix]

stealth bomber top speed drive by.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXaD2tfra4Y

the most advanced protective riding gear was used for this video, -dont try this at home-.

Man that safety gear was so lite, you cant even tell you have it on. Fast drive by, makes me want to switch back to my 5403 for a while. Man that stretch of road could be Flat Rock Beach in La Maddalena. I miss the med. I wish I would have had the bomber when I lived in Italy. I would be telling everybody: "Hey!, You smell that stink? That's me because I am the shit!" Thanks for posting the vid.

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

now found a shop that has a 19"x1.6 rim, a 19"mousse and a 19" 70/100 knobbie - lets wait for delivery

Rix do you know the difference in circumference of 17" and 19" wheels in bomber ? the same like 24x3 would be the perfect one

 

[Rix]

now found a shop that has a 19"x1.6 rim, a 19"mousse and a 19" 70/100 knobbie - lets wait for delivery

Rix do you know the difference in circumference of 17" and 19" wheels in bomber ? the same like 24x3 would be the perfect one

The 19x1.6 you are going to get with a 2.75x19 Shinko SR241 will measure 25.16 inches diameter. The stock Bomber Razorbacks are 25.6 inches inflated at 32PSI and brand new zero knob wear conditions. These tire will be very close in size. The 17 with the 3.00x17 Shinko SR241 will come in at 23.9 inch Diameter. The 2.75x 17 come in at 23.3-23.5 inches. I have two measurements for this size because I couldn't get it to seat on the bead properly. The majority of the 70/100x19 tires I have seen measure between 24.8 and 25.5 inches.

Rick

 

[nevermnd]

stainless steel set is the perfect one

I wish Chris King would make a stainless head/stem riser.
This Origin8 is 6061 Alu and so far the only decent one that I came across.

I'm just over 6ft with long legs and short arms
This 2 inches rise makes a huge difference if you are short on reach with elbows/wrists pain due to
incorrect stance/fit.

If you guys know of a stainless steel riser/extender , please let me know
I don't want to snap this one in half .....

 

[nevermnd]

now found a shop that has a 19"x1.6 rim, a 19"mousse and a 19" 70/100 knobbie - lets wait for delivery

Rix do you know the difference in circumference of 17" and 19" wheels in bomber ? the same like 24x3 would be the perfect one

The 19x1.6 you are going to get with a 2.75x19 Shinko SR241 will measure 25.16 inches diameter. The stock Bomber Razorbacks are 25.6 inches inflated at 32PSI and brand new zero knob wear conditions. These tire will be very close in size. The 17 with the 3.00x17 Shinko SR241 will come in at 23.9 inch Diameter. The 2.75x 17 come in at 23.3-23.5 inches. I have two measurements for this size because I couldn't get it to seat on the bead properly. The majority of the 70/100x19 tires I have seen measure between 24.8 and 25.5 inches.

Rick

Are you using rim locks with the Shinko's?
Is the lesser torque of the hub motor allows you to run MC rear setup at 12psi without a rim-lock?
Marek

 

[Rix]

No I am not using rim locks, however, I don't ever go lower than 25 PSI so its seems good.

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

now found a shop that has a 19"x1.6 rim, a 19"mousse and a 19" 70/100 knobbie - lets wait for delivery

Rix do you know the difference in circumference of 17" and 19" wheels in bomber ? the same like 24x3 would be the perfect one

The 19x1.6 you are going to get with a 2.75x19 Shinko SR241 will measure 25.16 inches diameter. The stock Bomber Razorbacks are 25.6 inches inflated at 32PSI and brand new zero knob wear conditions. These tire will be very close in size. The 17 with the 3.00x17 Shinko SR241 will come in at 23.9 inch Diameter. The 2.75x 17 come in at 23.3-23.5 inches. I have two measurements for this size because I couldn't get it to seat on the bead properly. The majority of the 70/100x19 tires I have seen measure between 24.8 and 25.5 inches.

Rick

Thank you very much !

 

[MAFIA]

yes chris king steelset look pretty solid but i don't know if going to look good on my black bomber it will be like a blin blin necklaces are stock bomber headset are steel? is a difficult decision loool and what about the spacer and crown race ? and do i have to be concern about this
The SteelSet headset uses a 1" deep cup
skirt that will require a deeper bore than
a conventional frame will have. The depth
of the bore must exceed the depth of the
skirt by a minimum of .25" (~7mm) for a
total depth of 1.25" (~32mm) in order to
get a cup removal tool behind the cup
skirt. Even then, the geometry of the inside
of the head tube may make SteelSet
removal impossible and some frames are
simply not compatible with the SteelSet.
Reaming your head tube bore deeper
than its stock condition may void your
frame warranty and could critically
weaken your frame. Check with your
frame manufacturer before installing a
SteelSet in your bike or reaming your
head tube bore any deeper than they did
at the frame factory.

sorry about all this question but the last time i own a bike i was like 13 years old that almost 20 years loool and i am planning to install my self

 

[nevermnd]

Must be a season for bombing graffiti's - thanks for inspiration Hyena!
Here is my contribution:



Also, had a small low side this morning, just barely laid down the bomber in turn (the front keeps washing out) and low and behold the Suntor crank is bent - those things are pretty fragile.
Is vice the best way to straighten that out? I think I read a couple pages back that it seems to be the best way to get it straight again.

Need to search back the thread for recommended suspension settings I'm probably around 220lbs with gear and water...

Marek

 

[nevermnd]

yes chris king steelset look pretty solid but i don't know if going to look good on my black bomber it will be like a blin blin necklaces are stock bomber headset are steel? is a difficult decision loool and what about the spacer and crown race ? and do i have to be concern about this
The SteelSet headset uses a 1" deep cup
skirt that will require a deeper bore than
a conventional frame will have. The depth
of the bore must exceed the depth of the
skirt by a minimum of .25" (~7mm) for a
total depth of 1.25" (~32mm) in order to
get a cup removal tool behind the cup
skirt. Even then, the geometry of the inside
of the head tube may make SteelSet
removal impossible and some frames are
simply not compatible with the SteelSet.
Reaming your head tube bore deeper
than its stock condition may void your
frame warranty and could critically
weaken your frame. Check with your
frame manufacturer before installing a
SteelSet in your bike or reaming your
head tube bore any deeper than they did
at the frame factory.

sorry about all this question but the last time i own a bike i was like 13 years old that almost 20 years loool and i am planning to install my self

I thought the website said they come in 4 different colors - must be the Aluminum ones only and not the SS.

 

[morati]

MAFIA, the Steelset is much stronger than a conventional headset BECAUSE it goes into the headtube by a full inch. However, I am not sure if the Bomber's headtube is internally butted or not. Perhaps someone who has had the stock headset off can answer here. I do not think it is which means the SteelSet will fit. Removing it will not be a problem (there is a special tool to do so and your LBS will have it). You'll probably never have to remove it anyways unless you are installing it in a new frame (I have an old CK Ti headset that has been with me for over 12 years now and the only thing I have ever done to it is clean out the bearings twice and regrease it). Chris Kings bearings are the best out there.......

 

[Justtoby]

Put the sun tour crank arms in the oven at 220-240 for 30 mins then put in the vice. You might need a puller to get the off.

 

[Rix]

Yep these cranks bend easily. After my second set and 140 bucks later, I sent my least fuqd up set to cryopro in missouri. They tempered my cranks @ -315F below zero. I have no way for sure to quantify this, but I think my crank arms are more springy now and less prone to bending. I haven't bent the arms since I tempered them. I have some gouges on the arms from hitting rocks but they haven't bent like they did before. Maybe I am also a smoother rider now and the impacts haven't been as severe. Yah, thats it.

[quoteNeed to search back the thread for recommended suspension settings I'm probably around 220lbs with gear and water...

Marek][/quote]

Marek, what spring rate do you have on your Bomber? I have a 750# spring. Stock was 700#. But these specs are for 2011 and 2012. Looking at the 2013, looks like the springs have progressive coils on them. Tell me what you got and I will get you in the ball park of where you probably want to be.

Rick

 

[DunkenKBliths]

WEIRD QUESTION FOR THE DAY !!!

I'm 95% through a creating a Keyless "keyfob remote" starter for the BOMBER and was
wondering if anyone knows, what size of the hole that sits under the KeySwitch on the bomber ?

I haven't had time to take it off yet and just want to be prepared...

 

[nevermnd]

Yep these cranks bend easily. After my second set and 140 bucks later, I sent my least fuqd up set to cryopro in missouri. They tempered my cranks @ -315F below zero. I have no way for sure to quantify this, but I think my crank arms are more springy now and less prone to bending. I haven't bent the arms since I tempered them. I have some gouges on the arms from hitting rocks but they haven't bent like they did before. Maybe I am also a smoother rider now and the impacts haven't been as severe. Yah, thats it.

[quoteNeed to search back the thread for recommended suspension settings I'm probably around 220lbs with gear and water...

Marek]

Marek, what spring rate do you have on your Bomber? I have a 750# spring. Stock was 700#. But these specs are for 2011 and 2012. Looking at the 2013, looks like the springs have progressive coils on them. Tell me what you got and I will get you in the ball park of where you probably want to be.

Rick[/quote]

Thanks Rick!
It sure looks like a progressive 750.
Is there any hope for the stock forks? Suspensions is definitely my weak side.
Currently the rear keeps kicking me up after going over a small hill or a smooth rolling bump and the front keeps washing out.
I don't want to experiment with if to make it worse

 

[Rix]

Okay Marek since you are about 30# lighter than me, Turn your spanner preload nuts on top of the shock one complete rotation clockwise. The little black knob on top of your shock reservoir is the compression knob, back that all the way out counter clock wise and the go one or two clicks clockwise. The red knob on the bottom of your shock is your rebound control, turn that knob all the way towards "fast" until it stops, then go 10-11 clicks towards "slow". This will change how slow or fast your shock extends after compression. This should be a good starting point for you. If you are used to riding offroad gassers, this starting point will feel slower on rebound than what you would want on a gasser. This is neccessary to offest the unsuspended mass that is carried in the rear wheel/hubmotor. Its probably twice the weight of the average dirt bike wheel. Now the fine tuning, find yourself some woops. Blast through them as fast as you can. If your rear bottoms out quickly, dial a click on the top black compression knob. If your machine wants to throw you over the bars, slow down the rebound more by turning the bottom red knob a click or two towards the "slow". If going through the woops your machine feels really hard, this could be a sign that your rebound is too slow and not allowing the shock to extend fast enough before the next woop. If thats the case, speed up your rebound by turning the red click knob towards "fast". Experiment and you will find your happy setting. The DNM is a great shock but you can only do so much with it. As far as compression goes, there is no seperate high speed slow speed compression setting like most dirt bikes have. So you are kind of stuck with depending more you your spring preload and compression knob setting to cover high speed and slow speed settings and finding that happy medium. The other thing about the DNM shock, after about 15 or so off road rides, your shock will break in and work better. So you may find yourself fine tuning the adjustments again. After you try this, if you tell me what you want your bike to do, I can tell you which way to go with the settings. The front fork valving is not very progressive at all. I mounted a Marzocchi 888CR and its a much better option. Having said that, the best thing you can do for the RST is the following. The bottom red knob on the right leg, turn that towards the + till it stops. Leave it there. If I remember correctly the top for me was turned all of the way hard. For you, figure 4 clicks from all the way hard and try that. Any Qs feel free to PM.

Rick