E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[FL bomber]

Emmet.. taking the small steps to keep water out pays off big time.. and is easy to do.. even if you have two thumbs. I know I bought my bike ready to go out of a box because what I can buy at the stores could not do what I needed it for. Butt I do have right hand for a throttle and legs to Pedal and thanks 2 all I'm learning what's needed to keep our bikes running sweet.oh andif i drill small hole bottom of frame where water does collect.(bad design)will that affect warranty??

 

[one4torque]

I drilled a small hole on each side under the frame below the controller. I also dabbed some touch up paint in the holes.

I already had the battery out for other reasons so this was easy.

 

[1abv]

Hey all is there an easy way to tell if you have the CAV3 or CAv2? My start up screen says CAV3 but when I physically looked at it the wiring coming out of the box was what is indicated in CAV2 illustrations. AKA no thermistor wire among others. I read on grins website how there is a firmware upgrade to CAV3 which I'm wondering of I have a cave w a firmware upgrade. any thoughts? ante the guts the same and you have to physically solder to the board?

Thanks

 

[Kepler]

If the splash screen comes up with CA3, then it's a CA3. A CA3 controller can be wired and programed to operate basically the same as a CA2 and this is what Stealth did mainly to maintain consistency with the bike model and frame design. I believe the CA3 electronics were squeezed into the original CA2 enclosure so they would suit the frame cutouts.

Nothing stopping you wiring in any of the CA3 features like temp sensor, PAS sensor, torque sensor, 3 speed switch, 3 power setting switch etc, etc. However, you need to fully understand the CA3 which is practically a hobby on its own. There is a massive thread on the CA3 and heap of excellent documentation.

 

[Emmett]

oh and if i drill small hole bottom of frame where water does collect (bad design) will that affect warranty??

I expect it could void warranty. If you had a crack develop anywhere near the hole. I want my frame to last for a long time, so it was a simple choice for me.

1. Don't drill a hole then it certainly WILL rust down there where water must pool, then it'll crack and fail at some point in the future.
2. Drill a hole in the right place and it'll only do good and no harm.

The right place is on the left/rear side, in the corner of curved surface near the BB. About 4mm away from the TIG weld beads. Drill a 2mm hole, that will semi-fit the straw on a oil spray can. There is a lot of stress around the swingarm pivot but very little out near that left corner. Also the welds are obviously very good quality and the metal is strong CRMo steel.

I lightly water wash my bike after riding. I just have too! Then I compressed air blow it, rag wipe it, air blow it again, rag wipe it again, then spray oil on lots of things. I can do the whole operation in about 20 minutes. With the air blower I pump it into the frame compartment up top where the cables go in and I lean the bike to the left and any water in the bottom of the frame comes out. Usually none. But I oil in there anyway. Just a little squirt.

 

[one4torque]

My new sb already has holes drilled in this place, so stealth knows about the bennies of doing this mod.

 

[1abv]

If the splash screen comes up with CA3, then it's a CA3. A CA3 controller can be wired and programed to operate basically the same as a CA2 and this is what Stealth did mainly to maintain consistency with the bike model and frame design. I believe the CA3 electronics were squeezed into the original CA2 enclosure so they would suit the frame cutouts.

Nothing stopping you wiring in any of the CA3 features like temp sensor, PAS sensor, torque sensor, 3 speed switch, 3 power setting switch etc, etc. However, you need to fully understand the CA3 which is practically a hobby on its own. There is a massive thread on the CA3 and heap of excellent documentation.

Thanks for the info! good to know...

 

[FL bomber]

Bell super 2R full face bike helmet lots of ventilation does not hinder hearing.. protect your head and save your V-box listen for gear shifter 2 click in place before pedaling . I'm sure we've all missed shift half pedal stroke no good. listen listen 4 the Click

 

[biknut]

I got my wheel back from the lbs

 

[Jimboyr6]

Looking good TV,get pic when u got em mounted

 

[stevebills]

I took my bomber out today and I did a mile before it cut out and the led went off
And I have re charged bbut still no power and not sure if it's under warranty it's about a year old
Is this a common faults and what should I do first?

Thx
Steve

 

[Rix]

I took my bomber out today and I did a mile before it cut out and the led went off
And I have re charged bbut still no power and not sure if it's under warranty it's about a year old
Is this a common faults and what should I do first?

Thx
Steve

Pop your cover off and unplug then plug your battery back in. Sounds like you may have inadvertently tripped the BMS and unplugging the battery will reset. That said, has your bike been sitting for a while? Also, what was your volt sag like before you lost power? I asked because if you are tripping the BMS when whacking the throttle wide open, you may need to do one or both adjustment changes to you settings. Increase the LVC by 1 volt, and decrease amps by 5 amps, or if running the DC1 decrease power by 500 watts.

 

[Rix]

Nice wheel TV, when will it be mounted? Also, been seeing the Sondors guys riding, how big are those tires? Guessing 26x5.00 inches?

 

[stevebills]

I took my bomber out today and I did a mile before it cut out and the led went off
And I have re charged bbut still no power and not sure if it's under warranty it's about a year old
Is this a common faults and what should I do first?

Thx
Steve

Pop your cover off and unplug then plug your battery back in. Sounds like you may have inadvertently tripped the BMS and unplugging the battery will reset. That said, has your bike been sitting for a while? Also, what was your volt sag like before you lost power? I asked because if you are tripping the BMS when whacking the throttle wide open, you may need to do one or both adjustment changes to you settings. Increase the LVC by 1 volt, and decrease amps by 5 amps, or if running the DC1 decrease power by 500 watts.

It's been sitting a few months and it lost full power to zero power straight away

Thx Steve

 

[biknut]

Nice wheel TV, when will it be mounted? Also, been seeing the Sondors guys riding, how big are those tires? Guessing 26x5.00 inches?

The problem and the solution



I like it a lot better this way.

 

[Hyena]

Rix, fat bike tyres are typically 26x4" but they come in all manner of sizes.
TV, your new setup looks good for street riding . You'll have to give us a ride report on the handling.
I've only ridden 2 fat bikes and the handling on them wasn't great. No doubt good for their original intended purpose of cruising along sand or snow or whatever but I found even at low speeds the cornering was unpleasantly squishy. Kinda like a motorcycle with flat tyres. Not the sort of thing that inspires confidence even at sondors type power levels. Yours with hookies will probably be different though, and running the same rubber on fatter rims will actually make them lower profile so probably less sidewall flex ?

 

[stevebills]

I took my bomber out today and I did a mile before it cut out and the led went off
And I have re charged bbut still no power and not sure if it's under warranty it's about a year old
Is this a common faults and what should I do first?

Thx
Steve

Pop your cover off and unplug then plug your battery back in. Sounds like you may have inadvertently tripped the BMS and unplugging the battery will reset. That said, has your bike been sitting for a while? Also, what was your volt sag like before you lost power? I asked because if you are tripping the BMS when whacking the throttle wide open, you may need to do one or both adjustment changes to you settings. Increase the LVC by 1 volt, and decrease amps by 5 amps, or if running the DC1 decrease power by 500 watts.

It's been sitting a few months and it lost full power to zero power straight away

Thx Steve

Bump

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Steve, you've given us barely any info to go off...it could be a bunch of different things, but the most likely troubleshooting step has already been offered. How did that work out?

Failing that, you could try leaving it on the charger over night. Then take note of how many AH used before it cuts out again. It could just be a bad cell tripping the BMS early which should be evident if you still get some AH hot off the charger, but nowhere near the original capacity.

Cheers

 

[Rix]

Rix, fat bike tyres are typically 26x4" but they come in all manner of sizes.
TV, your new setup looks good for street riding . You'll have to give us a ride report on the handling.
I've only ridden 2 fat bikes and the handling on them wasn't great. No doubt good for their original intended purpose of cruising along sand or snow or whatever but I found even at low speeds the cornering was unpleasantly squishy. Kinda like a motorcycle with flat tyres. Not the sort of thing that inspires confidence even at sondors type power levels. Yours with hookies will probably be different though, and running the same rubber on fatter rims will actually make them lower profile so probably less sidewall flex ?

I think these tires are wider than 4 inches, and I am not 100% sure they are 26, maybe 29" wheels, but I don't know. If they are indeed 26x4", then I am thinking that they are wider than their designation indicates. @TV, what do you know?

 

[Rix]

Steve, you've given us barely any info to go off...it could be a bunch of different things, but the most likely troubleshooting step has already been offered. How did that work out?

Failing that, you could try leaving it on the charger over night. Then take note of how many AH used before it cuts out again. It could just be a bad cell tripping the BMS early which should be evident if you still get some AH hot off the charger, but nowhere near the original capacity.

Cheers

True CD, with the limited information provided, we just don't know for sure. Thats why I asked if his bike quite while under full load WOT.

it lost full power to zero power straight away

Steve's comment tells me most likely the BMS tripped. But what caused that could be a couple of things. If the cause is because the battery just degraded from idle time without use, then all the cells may equally be going south. If thats the case, then increasing LVC by a volt, and decreasing dc amps (CA) or peak watts (DC1) will buy some time. But if its what you said, that isn't going to work for long, need to find the bad cell/s and replace. I was talking with one of the forum guys in PM. His bike sits for extended periods of time between charging and riding do to a job that requires lots of travel. And on multiple occasions, when he first rides his bike after sitting for an extended time, the battery performs like crap and volts sag clear to LVC from HOC. However, after a couple of easy rides followed by immediate charging, his battery recovers and works better. This has repeatedly been the case. Not saying who it is, however, he reads the thread and can chime in if he wants. Anyway, I am wondering if this is the case with Steve's bike?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

And on multiple occasions, when he first rides his bike after sitting for an extended time, the battery performs like crap and volts sag clear to LVC from HOC. However, after a couple of easy rides followed by immediate charging, his battery recovers and works better. This has repeatedly been the case.

Yeah, I saw this behaviour also once I stopped using my Fighter as a daily commuter when using the stock battery. So yeah, another potential option for Steve, but less likely since it's dying so quickly.

I've found after sitting for extended periods, even if I charge before a ride, I can only get ~13-14Ah, but if I do a few rides and charge within a week, I will start seeing 15-16Ah, 17Ah if taking it really easy.
Interesting behaviour for sure, and I don't see the same thing with LiPo.

Cheers

 

[Rix]

And on multiple occasions, when he first rides his bike after sitting for an extended time, the battery performs like crap and volts sag clear to LVC from HOC. However, after a couple of easy rides followed by immediate charging, his battery recovers and works better. This has repeatedly been the case.

Yeah, I saw this behaviour also once I stopped using my Fighter as a daily commuter when using the stock battery. So yeah, another potential option for Steve, but less likely since it's dying so quickly.

I've found after sitting for extended periods, even if I charge before a ride, I can only get ~13-14Ah, but if I do a few rides and charge within a week, I will start seeing 15-16Ah, 17Ah if taking it really easy.
Interesting behaviour for sure, and I don't see the same thing with LiPo.

Cheers

Yah, I haven't experienced that with Lipos either. They really just start sagging all of sudden whether sitting or getting used. My home build gets ridden the least, and I noticed the cells are good for about 2 seasons then WHAM! they fall on their face. Last year I got 6 6s 8000maH zippy's and they are still going very well. running 4 bricks on the bike and the other two are carried for those epic extended range type rides.

 

[stevebills]

Found the fault a wire has come loose and how to I fix this back to the connector?

Thx
Steve

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Found the fault a wire has come loose and how to I fix this back to the connector?

Thx
Steve

There you go, simple problem.

Just shove the spade back into the housing so the tab can catch it properly. Look at 1:25 in the video below.
[youtube]3YegA_JYk9I[/youtube]

They don't normally come out like that, so it would probably be worth taking a close look at why it might have failed in the first place.

Cheers

 

[stevebills]

I drilled the metal connector and re crimped wire back and it's working now