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E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Rix said:
Hyena said:
Rix, fat bike tyres are typically 26x4" but they come in all manner of sizes.
TV, your new setup looks good for street riding . You'll have to give us a ride report on the handling.
I've only ridden 2 fat bikes and the handling on them wasn't great. No doubt good for their original intended purpose of cruising along sand or snow or whatever but I found even at low speeds the cornering was unpleasantly squishy. Kinda like a motorcycle with flat tyres. Not the sort of thing that inspires confidence even at sondors type power levels. Yours with hookies will probably be different though, and running the same rubber on fatter rims will actually make them lower profile so probably less sidewall flex ?

I think these tires are wider than 4 inches, and I am not 100% sure they are 26, maybe 29" wheels, but I don't know. If they are indeed 26x4", then I am thinking that they are wider than their designation indicates. @TV, what do you know?

The Storm's have 4.9 x 26 tires on 3" rims. Most other fat bikes come with 4" tires on 3" rims. The widest fat bike rims are 4", but 3" are usually the preferred. Fat bike tires have very tall sidewalls, and run super low pressure, like about 16 psi or less. My bike with low profile tires running 35psi really doesn't qualify as a fat bike.

The 24 x 2.5 Hook Worms mounted on my 2.5"rims are 2.95" wide. Slightly wider than the stock 24 x 3 Razorbacks mounted on stock 30mm rims. My wheels might look fat bike, but they don't have much fat bike feel. My bike handles like a normal sport bike.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Rix said:
Hyena said:
Rix, fat bike tyres are typically 26x4" but they come in all manner of sizes.
TV, your new setup looks good for street riding . You'll have to give us a ride report on the handling.
I've only ridden 2 fat bikes and the handling on them wasn't great. No doubt good for their original intended purpose of cruising along sand or snow or whatever but I found even at low speeds the cornering was unpleasantly squishy. Kinda like a motorcycle with flat tyres. Not the sort of thing that inspires confidence even at sondors type power levels. Yours with hookies will probably be different though, and running the same rubber on fatter rims will actually make them lower profile so probably less sidewall flex ?

I think these tires are wider than 4 inches, and I am not 100% sure they are 26, maybe 29" wheels, but I don't know. If they are indeed 26x4", then I am thinking that they are wider than their designation indicates. @TV, what do you know?[/

The Storm's have 4.9 x 26 tires on 3" rims. Most other fat bikes come with 4" tires on 3" rims. The widest fat bike rims are 4", but 3" are usually the preferred. Fat bike tires have very tall sidewalls, and run super low pressure, like about 16 psi or less. My bike with low profile tires running 35psi really doesn't qualify as a fat bike.

The 24 x 2.5 Hook Worms mounted on my 2.5"rims are 2.95" wide. Slightly wider than the stock 24 x 3 Razorbacks mounted on stock 30mm rims. My wheels might look fat bike, but they don't have much fat bike feel. My bike handles like a normal sport bike.

Looks like my first guess 26x5" was pretty close, you smell that stink? Thats me because I am the $h!t. :lol: :wink: You set up on your Bomber is more super motard now. I imagine you like it more with the amount of pavement riding you do.
 
one4torque said:
As the winey college kids say today... Im going to my safe place with my little rim.

What build is that wheel going on? I see a TC40xx, and puny 12g spokes with a good looking bicycle rim.
 
Anyone experience an issue with their headset in that the steering stiffens after you've done a decent jump or say 1 metre drop off. Losen everything off, reset and fine until the next jump etc. Damaged bearings, headset?

Cheers
Steve
 
one4torque said:
When you order the 4080 on a 24" rim from grin this is what you get.
This might go on the sondors....... Thinking of putting my dnm front sos forks on as well.

That makes more sense now, Grin's biggest advertised controller is a 12Fet 40 amp controller, that wheelmotor rim combo would hold up just fine with their controllers.
 
whitebomber said:
Anyone experience an issue with their headset in that the steering stiffens after you've done a decent jump or say 1 metre drop off. Losen everything off, reset and fine until the next jump etc. Damaged bearings, headset?

Cheers
Steve

If you headset fork triple clamps and bar clamp are all properly set up, no you shouldn't have the issues at all. The trick on adjustment is no play on the fork tube stem while at the same time not binding when steering left to right.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Rix said:
NIce video taking it easy on ebikes.

My bike is limited to legal speeds officer. I'm not like those eBike hooligans on endless sphere.

I am going to go out on a limb and say that not all cops are dumbshits when it comes to ebikes. :lol:
 
Hi folks,
As promised some weeks ago regarding my first ever tubliss flat. I've been running a tubliss on my ktm rear for a few years now and on the bomber rear since September last year. I usually run 18-20lb with no problem.

Also Rix see photos of the modified rubber and plate as promised previously the next time I pulled it apart.

Interestingly while I had it apart I found the aluminium rim lock plate does nothing with the narrow rim. Because the 19" tubliss is made for a wider rim, the narrow rim makes the tubliss inner tyre bulge out and up such that in order to get the plate to lock down on the inside of the tyre, the tubliss inner tyre would be squashed excessively flat. You can see in the photos below, particularly the bottom photo, that the tubliss inner tyre was squashed a bit from me over tightening as the plate doesn't lock down onto the tyre. While I didn't bother to machine the plate down to be just a sealing washer, I suspect this would work OK as the the plate doesn't actually act as a rim lock. The high pressure inner tyre does this. I am not sure if the plate being larger rather than small or just a sealing washer protects the valve bolt?

Regarding the tubliss flat; the valve of the high pressure tube snapped at the rim. I assume it was the tree branch that I slid into as I skidded into a bermed corner. The tyre deflated instantly. I was probably lucky not to damage it riding home a few ks flat. I didn't realise at the time that the inner tube and tyre had deflated.

When reinstalling the tubliss with a new tube, instead of using soapy water I used a liquid latex solution. The sealant used for tubeless bicycle tyre set ups. I used Schwalbe Doc Blue. I painted the inside of the tyre and then slopped it all over to lube for installation.
My reasoning was to stop the tyre always deflating after a few days. Tubliss do advise this is normal as air leaks through the tyre rubber. Its seems to have worked as the tyre has maintained pressure for about two weeks now.
Next time I change my ktm rear tyre I will be using some tyre sealant on this also.

IMG_0420.JPG
IMG_0421.JPG
IMG_0422.JPG

Cheers,
Ciao
 
Thanks for posting the pics, I see whats going on. So how much material did you remove from the rim lock to fit?
 
whitebomber said:
Anyone experience an issue with their headset in that the steering stiffens after you've done a decent jump or say 1 metre drop off. Losen everything off, reset and fine until the next jump etc. Damaged bearings, headset?
Damaged bearings.
 
Emmett said:
whitebomber said:
Anyone experience an issue with their headset in that the steering stiffens after you've done a decent jump or say 1 metre drop off. Losen everything off, reset and fine until the next jump etc. Damaged bearings, headset?
Damaged bearings.

Yep, I forgot to mention this when I commented about proper adjustment. BTW, did you get my message about the temp sensor DC1 reflash thats needed for the TC30xx?
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Interestingly while I had it apart I found the aluminium rim lock plate does nothing with the narrow rim. Because the 19" tubliss is made for a wider rim, the narrow rim makes the tubliss inner tyre bulge out and up such that in order to get the plate to lock down on the inside of the tyre, the tubliss inner tyre would be squashed excessively flat. You can see in the photos below, particularly the bottom photo, that the tubliss inner tyre was squashed a bit from me over tightening as the plate doesn't lock down onto the tyre. While I didn't bother to machine the plate down to be just a sealing washer, I suspect this would work OK as the the plate doesn't actually act as a rim lock. The high pressure inner tyre does this. I am not sure if the plate being larger rather than small or just a sealing washer protects the valve bolt?

Regarding the tubliss flat; the valve of the high pressure tube snapped at the rim. I assume it was the tree branch that I slid into as I skidded into a bermed corner. The tyre deflated instantly. I was probably lucky not to damage it riding home a few ks flat. I didn't realise at the time that the inner tube and tyre had deflated.
Thanks for sharing. Breaking the high pressure valve stem sounds like a freak thing. Perhaps that not what happened. Could it be that rim lock over tightening causes liner damage, then full deflation then riding on the completely deflated system broke the stem off?

I totally agree that with the narrow rims the rim lock is redundant because the bead sealing pressure is so high. What size rim? 1.4 or 1.6?

I cut down my rim lock so it pulls nicely into my 1.6 rim. And I don't do it up very tight either. I've found that 70 PSI is plenty in the high pressure tube since the rim is so narrow. When I install I use Armorall on the inside of the red liner and green slime on both sides of the tire bead. The slime later works as a sealant. My rear 19" VRM021 tire loses about 1psi per month. Near nothing. When riding it takes a total hammering and is still going fine after maybe 30 x 90 minute rides on mostly rough stuff. I often bash the rear wheel on rocks and often just one sidewall takes the hit, and to date, just one rim scratch and no dents. Love it!
 
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
Rix said:
NIce video taking it easy on ebikes.

My bike is limited to legal speeds officer. I'm not like those eBike hooligans on endless sphere.

I am going to go out on a limb and say that not all cops are dumbshits when it comes to ebikes. :lol:

I really have very high regard for all the local police in the Dallas area. What's not to like?

Tonight a Farmers Branch patrol car must have stalked me for at least a little while in the dark. I pulled up to a stop light, and about 2 seconds later he pulled up along side of me, two lanes over. I was riding 45 mph. He made a left turn on the green. That's the same as always. Texas is very eBike friendly.
 
Emmett said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Thanks for sharing. Breaking the high pressure valve stem sounds like a freak thing. Perhaps that not what happened. Could it be that rim lock over tightening causes liner damage, then full deflation then riding on the completely deflated system broke the stem off?

Hi and no prob,
I similarly bash the rear around with little to no regard for avoiding square edge hits, and while I cannot be certain, I don't think I have damaged the rim since the tubliss install. My rim was well bashed around from running numerous heavy duty tubes at around 25-30lb previously. The tubes usually eventually wore through at the rim lock.

Re the tube valve snapping. While the rim lock was over tightened, I don't think it was the cause of the deflation. I only replaced the inner tube and it is staying up fine. The way tyre went down with an instant 'pssshhh' leads me to believe that somehow maybe a branch poking out from the log I braked into in the bermed corner somehow poked through and snapped it off. It was a substantial log and and had some good size branches poking out from it.

Rix, re the plate dimensions. I have pasted the dimensions/detail from my original post for the plate mods.
for the aluminium rim plate = 48.75mm wide at the outside edge (the original 19" dimension was 57.75mm). I cut and filed the angle on the outer edge of the plate and the small half round grooves like the original. I didn't change the plates length, though I think the 21" plate is shorter than the 19".
-for the rubber block = 18mm wide (original 19" dimension was 23mm). This is measured from the rounded side through which the valve runs to the outside edge that sits against the inside of the rim opposite to the side the small tube runs past. I also put a small approx 3mm chamfered adge on the bottom inside edge of the rubber block where it would sit against the rim tyre bead.
The height of the rubber block was the same between the 19" and 21" versions of the tubliss.

Cheers,
Clinton
 
Rix, re the plate dimensions. I have pasted the dimensions/detail from my original post for the plate mods.
for the aluminium rim plate = 48.75mm wide at the outside edge (the original 19" dimension was 57.75mm). I cut and filed the angle on the outer edge of the plate and the small half round grooves like the original. I didn't change the plates length, though I think the 21" plate is shorter than the 19".
-for the rubber block = 18mm wide (original 19" dimension was 23mm). This is measured from the rounded side through which the valve runs to the outside edge that sits against the inside of the rim opposite to the side the small tube runs past. I also put a small approx 3mm chamfered adge on the bottom inside edge of the rubber block where it would sit against the rim tyre bead.
The height of the rubber block was the same between the 19" and 21" versions of the tubliss.

Cheers,
Clinton

Thats right, now I remember, I guess forgot. :? :oops:
 
I feel sorry for you poor smoes living in commie land. Commie land is anywhere outside of Texas.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
I feel sorry for you poor smoes living in commie land. Commie land is anywhere outside of Texas.

Thats bullshit, Nevada is more free than Texas, only 2 counties require vehicle smog, open carry guns anywhere in the state except banks, Fed buildings, and casinos, plus prostitution and gambling are legal, booze can be purchased 24/7/365 plus, barring a local county statute, firearms can be shot outside of any city limits as long as no structures are near by. I just don't know why more people aren't moving here. :lol: Maybe its because of Harryreid.
'
 
Emmett said:
whitebomber said:
Anyone experience an issue with their headset in that the steering stiffens after you've done a decent jump or say 1 metre drop off. Losen everything off, reset and fine until the next jump etc. Damaged bearings, headset?
Damaged bearings.

Appreciate the feedback. Turned out to be that the crown race off the old forks wasn't quite the right size. Got the correct one and all's good. For what it's worth the new Marzocchi 380 c2r2 forks are awesome making the bomber way more stable on the rough stuff at speed, now for the shock!
 
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