Electrical switches for boards?

BShady said:
dnmun said:
if the controller has a switch it is for the circuit current. the input caps to the power busses that the mosfets use is not on that circuit. but i only know the bike BLDC controllers and not the RC controllers.

Sorry I didn't get what you said?

I believe that it just means that if you plug that into a Delorean you can travel in time... :shock:
 
Even if it Dosent stop the current to the caps and mosfets but as long as it doesn't turn on the ESC it accomplishes the same goal as the anti-spark switch?
 
BShady said:
Even if it Dosent stop the current to the caps and mosfets but as long as it doesn't turn on the ESC it accomplishes the same goal as the anti-spark switch?

It does. That's why it's there. It's just not safe to use it for a permanent on/off switch as the components aren't rated for a higher voltage setup. You can use it as a main on/off switch. It's just not safe.

However, some people and use it as a main switch and I haven't heard any issues at all so.... up to you. Both methods work. One is safer than the other. Do you need it? Only you can answer that. :mrgreen:

RC hobbyists use it only as a temporary switch to restart the setup and disconnect at battery plug.

So the cheaper option for using an on/off switch is using either an Deans/XT90/EC5/XT60/EC3 loop key. Similar to the arming kit's they sell for RC cars. However, they are a bit harder to mount since their are no mounting kits. http://www.rcaccessory.com/AS1-K12.aspx. These regular arming kits can handle the current because it's simply just wire. However, they do spark on contact unless you have an anti-spark with a resistor setup to eat that spark.
 
torqueboards said:
I sell it on my website here - http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/on-off-high-voltage-anti-spark-power-switch-2-14s/.

They work well. Definitely, adds a more professional feel.


I appreciate that you provide a solution and the glowing on/off switch and high volt/amp system seems good but for $75+ (item/US shipping/tax) seems a little high to prevent a spark when connecting a battery pack imho but that's maybe just me.

So, to be clear, what you torque and dnmun are saying is that if I connect one of these simple on/off switches (http://www.electricscooterparts.com/powerswitches.html) between my ebike controller and the battery pack/bms, then not only upon the initial connection of this setup will I have a spark, but every time I turn the switch on/off it will spark, and eventually will burn off the connector tips of the switch, correct?...
 
there's the xt90s plugs that have the antispark in the connector. makes it easier than adding an antispark and pretty cheap. not as nice as a switch though.

Is it the high amps or the volts that are the issue? I thought it was the high volts that cause the spark but people on here are talking about high current.

Aren't there other problems that can come from not having an arming switch besides carbon on your connectors? I thought it had something to do with saving your esc from the spark as well.

I was just reading with a collapsing magnetic field, I guess when you turn the motor off, there's a voltage spike coming the other way.
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Is it the high amps or the volts that are the issue? I thought it was the high volts that cause the spark but people on here are talking about high current.

I'm not the best person to explain it, but in general, higher voltage = higher current. The arcing you see is enabled by the voltage, but is only damaging and lasts so long because current flows until all the capacitors are charged. Something along those lines, anyways... somebody more intelligent can probably give a better answer.


torqueboards said:
It's just not safe to use it for a permanent on/off switch as the components aren't rated for a higher voltage setup.

I'm not really following: what isn't rated for a higher voltage setup? The capacitors, MOSFETs, switch?
 
I was curious about this initially. If you were to buy a switch rated for 120v at 20 amps, could you not use it in this application where there is 25v at say 90 amps? The watts would relatively be about the same right?
 
mortifiedMORTY said:
I was curious about this initially. If you were to buy a switch rated for 120v at 20 amps, could you not use it in this application where there is 25v at say 90 amps? The watts would relatively be about the same right?
What's in a switch? Does it include a resistor and capacitor? does it work the same as an antis park switch? I also would like to know if its both an amp and volt issue or are the volts just an issue because they supply the amps..so wattage being the issue as you wonder. Seems it should be make able. The x90s plug maybe with a simple classic switch made with some 12 aug wire?
 
If your BMS has an On/OFF switch, would that be fine, or is a switch still needed to protect the ESC and motors?
 
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