Finally RUNNING!! page 5 ride vids Here!! need better qualit

Its crazy how much better than my RC drive this is, its more controllable, smoother, and so quiet its crazy, its actually way quieter than the rear MAC 6t in the back wheel!
 
Awesome man! Makes me want to take my hub out and mid drive it through the gears. You'll have to make some videos one handed runnin through the hills! :lol:
Too bad you can't make it out this weekend.
 
Thanks bud! I will hopefully get some video on the way home from work today if all goes well. Im taking it on the maiden voyage this AM! Hopefully it makes it all the way! Lol!
 
Made it to work on only 5.5AH INSTEAD OF 8.5!! Plus at the same speed!!
 
Ordering à mac...check
Wire à 12 fet...check
Building a bracket...More work?


I like it, looking forward for some more vids ;)
What about the front wheel clearance? Looks tigth to me !

anyway you have something here ;)
 
Thanks yeah I smashed the forks down to double check and it clears by over an inch so it should be fine even with a little fork bend. Ill find out this weekend when I hit the trails with it for the first time.

It looks like I got really close to perfect as far as the brackets are concerned, there are a few small places I need to tweak now that I have looked it over, the motor rubs ever so slightly under load that I had not noticed and I am sure it will increase a bit climbing heavily. I am amazed at how much more efficient it is, I don't know why but places that usually pull over 14-1500 watts were doing it at the same pace with like 700-800! I mean a big difference! I think its because the 6T I had in there really wants to spin really fast all the time and just didn't have the guts to pull the RPM without pulling more watts. Its wierd too, I didn't change anything on the controller, literally just plugged it in and now I can't even get it to pull more than 1200 MAX when before it would do an easy 1600+ if hit hard. I am guessing I will have to dial up the controller to get more out of it right? Nowe it seems like its too efficient! LOL!
 
Whiplash said:
Thanks yeah I smashed the forks down to double check and it clears by over an inch so it should be fine even with a little fork bend. Ill find out this weekend when I hit the trails with it for the first time.

It looks like I got really close to perfect as far as the brackets are concerned, there are a few small places I need to tweak now that I have looked it over, the motor rubs ever so slightly under load that I had not noticed and I am sure it will increase a bit climbing heavily. I am amazed at how much more efficient it is, I don't know why but places that usually pull over 14-1500 watts were doing it at the same pace with like 700-800! I mean a big difference! I think its because the 6T I had in there really wants to spin really fast all the time and just didn't have the guts to pull the RPM without pulling more watts. Its wierd too, I didn't change anything on the controller, literally just plugged it in and now I can't even get it to pull more than 1200 MAX when before it would do an easy 1600+ if hit hard. I am guessing I will have to dial up the controller to get more out of it right? Nowe it seems like its too efficient! LOL!

I believe it was asked earlier but you may have missed it (intentionally or not) ;), but how much would you expect to charge for the e-bike conversion-conversion-kit?

What's your WOT speed on the lowest gear? 8-10mph? That'd be pretty sweet...
 
WOT in low was calc'd around 10MPH but until I swap out the rear hub wheel for the real one with the right cogs I won't know but it should be close. I really need to find out the cost for laser cutting or water jetting for the brackets to be sure, but I am expecting it to be in the ballpark of 3-400 hopefully, without the motor. there is a bit of bending and welding to do in addition to the plate cutting. if you want the motor you can either get one from cell man and I can machine it for a cost (to be determined) or I can supply one. Either way I will be fair on the parts prices for ES members, you guys will not pay what the general public will see.. I got my schooling here!! I need to play with it more and refine it a bit before I am ready to sell them though, I don't want a bad or faulty product to deal with! Bottom line is I really want to offer a complete kit (motor, mount, controller, and freewheel crank) for around 1000 since there is not much out there for that kind of money with this kind of climbing ability. I think if I can hit that mark, I will have a salable item!
 
Sounds good and right in the ballpark. I was figuring $300-500 for the bracket/cogs/etc. I would basically just need to remove the motor from the wheel, get someone to trim off the flange, and insert. Not sure how much it would cost, but you could probably include a few different sized cogs that attach to the hub to allow for some flexibility based on their # of turns on the MAC/BMC and/or the type of riding. I'd need more of a reduction than you have because I have the 8T. I understand regarding "getting it right". Another huge benefit from the mid-motor is getting a lot of mass off the back wheel (esp for off-roading).
 
Looks like you have a great setup going there.

Been following your progress as I've had a 12t mac on its way via the slow boat for almost 3 months. Supposed to be here this week.

There's a mountain just outside my front door(ok its a 35 minute drive) named pikes peak, You may have heard of it :D .
I think your setup is a damn good solution to get up it.
 

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Yes with enough battery I think you would have no.problem there.
 
its early days yet but sounds to me like macs in this situation might be able to have 4kw pushed at 'em :twisted: ... if they continue to get into their efficiency range fast.

is it still quiet under load? also, whats your top speed? I'll wait a little yet, but I'm already thinking of ditching the 80100/8085 and going with this, though probably in a customised frame to keep the look more stealth too.
 
For what its worth, pushing 1200 watts the entire ride (12 miles), it was barely above ambient temp so I am confident it will take more than 2000 easily, and to be honest, in the trails I doubt you would need more than that. I would wager it would take 3k if you were smart about the way you tide it. My brothers bike spikes over 3800 watts on accel and it's doing fine...
 
Oh yes, under load its still very quiet, the tires make far more noise...
 
You need these tires man:

41euiVvaG5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Maxxis Holy Rollers. I actually rode my XC bike for a year with these, good enough for most terrain and very smooth on the street.
 
Yes I was looking at I really like I will be getting them next but I have to wait for mine to wear out first!

On another note I use the threaded portion of the side cover that carries the cluster normally to drive the chain ring and I used a threaded fixed cog epoxied with jb weldis to keep it from spinning off but on the way homefrom it came loose. Is there a better stronger e poxyfor this or should I simply weld it permanently? This was the only problem I had though, I am pretty excited! Luckily I still had the rear hub on it so I just swapped wires and away I went! Lol!
 
did you remove the paint off the hub/inside of the FW before gluing?
otherwise i'd try bolting on a plate to the outside of the FW, so when it tries to unscrew itself it buts up against the plate, in much the same way as it 'buts up' against the hub when under pedal power...
 
I was thinking of a plate behind the cog bolted to the side cover, then bolt through the cog to the plate, mechanically locking it. BUT, this is more time/money and im trying to keep this as inexpensive as possible...
 
Problem solved! Ill just get another cover if I want to change gearing.
 

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The Z bends seem fine, I have yet to be able to load it REALLY hard, but they have not budged at up to 1300 watts so far.

The motor is un noticeable when ding... Other than the super human power!
 
Hey all,
I got the cover back in and it works like a charm! I was able to really load it down now and get it to pull around 1400 watts and I think with this controller settings that's about all it will pull since that nearly stalled it. I had go run it in 3rd gear and climb halfway up a steep grass hill, stop, and then PIN IT from a dead stop to get that much load. Even in 3rd gear, it popped a wheelie carly easily! I did however notice that I need to cross brace the two halves of the motor bracket because it tries to twist when loaded that hard. It took it, bit I don't want to sell something like that because I am sure people will beat these things up! I also want to be able to turn the wick up a bit around 2500 watts so it will need to be more rigid for sure. It looks like the Z sections are holding well, I think its just trying to twist.

That being said, I am truly impressed how much torque the 12t MAC has at this power level. It has all but snapped the Walmart chain I am using in just the two rides! Its at least a quarter inch longer than it was, maybe more!! Looks like a high dollar chain is in my future! Lol!
 
I'm away for a few days a look what happens, 2 extra pages!!!

Looks awesome dude, love the silence it was running in for that video, and can't wait to see the ride vid's. So the mac is far more efficient huh? do you think that's due to a better motor than the turnigy, of the lack or friction in the reduction gearing? It is interesting how it seems to be so much more efficient. One question I have though, I have always been avoiding hubs because they are heavy for the power compared to rc, but how does the power/weight ratio compare to your previous drive?

Also, it looks like you will need to lay some paint on that hub, if you can see the aluminium flashing past around the frame I imagine it could get rather dizzying... also you don't want to attract attention as you go along, not to the motor at least. Looks very nice, so hurry up with the video and full stats!
 
I have a feeling its more the fact that you can control the MAC better to be honest. The RC drive was very touchy, controllable but touchy.

As for the power/weight ratio, I think this one is about the same or maybe better overall, just not as jerky off the line which some might take as being slower but in reality I think its just as fast just smoother.

I am studying the design thoroughly right now trying to make it as good as I can before ordering up my first run of laser cut parts. I will likely get maybe 3-5 sets made for the first run just to see how it goes so ill post here and in the for sale section when im ready.

Barring any catastrophe I'll have climbing video this weekend!!
 
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