Front forks keep shaking in frame

[Taitertot]

So I noticed my front forks are 28.5mm and my front head tube size was 35mm so I got a reducer for 35to 28.5 and it still shakes what could I be doing wrong?

View attachment 2

 

[Chalo]

Do you not have a headset?

The normal head tube bore diameter for a 1-1/8" headset is 34.0mm. The steer tube outer diameter is 28.6mm, and the crown race seat diameter is 30.0mm.

I think you might need to back up a few steps and do some homework before you power up your motorcycle. Consider paying a professional to look over it after you think it's perfect.

 

[pullin-gs]

You need a straight (not tapered!) headset: 34mm(outside diameter) 1-1/8" (inside diamet...for slides tightly in this) Headset.
If you already have this, tighten up your headset fit (loosen handlebar riser clamp, very lightly tighten fork "star nut" until fork is seated in bearings without any play.

That said, excellent advice already given in regards to get a pro's help. You do not want to mess up headset configuration! Bad things happen if front-end side of bike fall apart while riding.

 

[speedy1984]

Hi there,make sure your stanchions are loose in the triple clamps or the triple clamps will not clamp down enough on the top and bottom bearings.My frame i found needed a extra clamp that is basically a threaded rod with a nut on one end and a spacer on the other.This just pulls both the stem or triple clamps together a little more.

Not sure what powering up the bike has to do with anything like Chalo is talking about

P.s Chalo its an e bike pedal bike not a motorcycle.

 

[E-HP]

Bad things happen if front-end side of bike fall apart while riding.

Or locks up so you can't steer

 

[Chalo]

Not sure what powering up the bike has to do with anything like Chalo is talking about

P.s Chalo its an e bike pedal bike not a motorcycle.

Adding motor power to a bike that's all effed up and not correctly assembled is an even worse idea than riding one with pedal power alone. It's asking to get hurt.

And that's not any kind of pedal bike. It's a motorcycle with cosmetic pedals added for the purpose of deception.

 

[speedy1984]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Taitertot]

I need to cut down the upper tube so that it will fit properly where my star nut will be right with the top cover that’s the issue I believe correct?

 

[calab]

figure out how much of a rise you want with the stem you have I left mine long but used a low rise stem.

 

[Taitertot]

But I do need to cut the stem it won’t work how it is now

 

[calab]

cutting is easy use a screwdriver and push the star nut inside the tube down past where your going to cut it

 

[Santacruz]

Just a couple of points from experience, that is worth noting.
If the rear swing arm pivot is the rubber bush type, seriously consider cutting it out and changing to ball bearings. The rubber bushing used will give an unstable rear end when riding.
(Although I built my bike from scratch, I modelled it on one of these frames)
I chose a standard front suspension fork, as the triple 'T' type, does not give you any steering angle. I went with a good make (Fox) 2nd hand and a rebuild kit. Much more controllable and comfortable (and of course, can be rebuilt / repaired in the future).

I would also suggest you leave the stem as is and use spacers to take up the excess. Then you can move your handle bar height around, until you find the best position before cutting.

Nearly 2 years since I built mine, powered with a QS273. Just over 8000kms without any problems.

 

[amberwolf]

But I do need to cut the stem it won’t work how it is now

if you mean the steerer tube,
https://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle+fork+steerer+tube
(the tube in the center of the fork) then you can cut it to length if you wish.

(the stem is the clamp that holds your handlebars to the fork)

but if you prefer you can just use spacer tubes and rings,
https://www.google.com/search?q=headset+spacer+tubes+and+rings
along with your handlebar stem,
https://www.google.com/search?q=bike+handlebar+stem
to fill the space between the headset cap
https://www.google.com/search?q=headset+cap
(which is what presses on that stack of stuff to the headset and headtube to tighten it all up, via the star nut
https://www.google.com/search?q=headset+star+nut
and the bolt thru the cap).

 

[Taitertot]

So how’s this look wrong right?

 

[E-HP]

So how’s this look wrong right?

A couple of things would be that the star nut needs to be pressed in about a half inch more, and you need enough spacers so that the stem is slightly higher than the steerer tube.

 

[amberwolf]

A couple of things would be that the star nut needs to be pressed in about a half inch more, and you need enough spacers so that the stem is slightly higher than the steerer tube.

Yes, because the top cap with the bolt that goes into the star nut presses on the stem, not the tube, while the bolt itself pulls up on the star nut, pulling the two together and tightening the system down.