GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[GCinDC]

The Turnigy 8150 is a step down from the iCharger, that's for sure. i can't set the lipo voltage for one thing - it has to be 4.20V per cell. that's fine, i'm just using it for balancing, and i've now finished topping up all the cells. one pack had 0.1V imbalance, with one cell at 4.22 and another at 4.12, so i had to leave in balancing for quite a while, 173 minutes to be precise, just to charge 00286 amps to balance the cells out... :lol:


i hooked up the parallel leads to run a discharge at 5s8p, but the Turnigy 8150 sounded like it was going to die, burping and coughing, hacking and choking, so i shut it down.

i'll just have to discharge it on the bike... boohoo.

the cables aren't pretty, but they work. and pretty soon, they'll be snug in the pack.

i'm reconsidering the connector location - might put it in empty space near seat tube (instead of in the front).

 

[etard]

Haha, I just posted on your other thread, and here is my answer! Nice!

 

[Hyena]

Yeah hobby chargers don't like charging and balancing what is essentially a 30ah + pack!
My icharger blew up a month or 2 ago but is still under warranty so hopefully I can get it replaced (though have to send it back to the US) I didnt even use it for regular charging, only cycling new packs and the odd balance charge here and there. Probably only used it a dozen times before it blew up, and took out the meanwell with it.

As for paralleling packs, I use small 1cm lengths of copper pipe and crimp it around the wire. I cut off much of the original wire battery wires though and parallel them permanantly as a single unit. Yeah if one dies later it's going to take out that parallel group but that's pretty rare, and if it suddenly drops it'll probably take the other one with it anyway (assuming you parallel at the cell level too)

The build is coming along nicely, you must be itching to get out and jump it until it breaks :lol:

 

[Duc998]

Hyena setup my pack / bulk charger and have to say its pretty easy and even though I paranoid about the balance I check it with a battery medic at every charge its never out by more then .3mv. Tks Jay

Your rear rim is it a 24"? I'd like to locate my controller in the same location as yours but worried about the my rear 26" tire hitting the controller. I just got a shock pump from CRC yesterday, Pumped my manitou which had no psi pressure at all to 130 psi and its much more stiffer, Even much less sag when sitting.

For the rear brake cable do you just get a longer one from CRC? Guessing all us DH comp users with kiwi's adapter may have a cable length issue.

Lastly you getting any mud guards? I'm looking around but unsure which will fit.

Cheer mate looking great. Cant wait for some ride vid's

 

[adrian_sm]

The Turnigy 8150 is a step down from the iCharger, that's for sure. i can't set the lipo voltage for one thing - it has to be 4.20V per cell.

If you set it to LiIo instead of LiPo, it will charge to 4.1V per cell. But that about as good as it gets on these cheap chargers.

 

[GCinDC]

I use small 1cm lengths of copper pipe and crimp it around the wire. I cut off much of the original wire battery wires though and parallel them permanantly as a single unit.

like water supply copper pipe? that's thick stuff, ain't it? i used to have some copper flashing around which would have been perfect for bands.. maybe next time. for some reason i thought it was frowned on to trim the original connectors, but why not? i may have a bit too much there, especially if i reposition the connector near the seat tube...

The build is coming along nicely, you must be itching to get out and jump it until it breaks :lol:

that hs3540 is out in the garage sweating right now, worried about the whupping it's gonna get. someone once advised against jumping this motor, but i've got other things in mind.

Your rear rim is it a 24"?

not yet. i've gotta break this 26" first.

I'd like to locate my controller in the same location as yours but worried about the my rear 26" tire hitting the controller.

will find out when i break the 26" wheel. i don't think the shock can compress that much actually. when bike was upside down with shock out, the rear wheel might have been an inch away. i think i took a picture. i may take another when i yank the manitou and install the fox, using these, that just arrived:

For the rear brake cable do you just get a longer one from CRC?

what's crc?

Lastly you getting any mud guards?

marzocchi makes muds guards for the bomber. work ok on my commuter, but i don't rely on it to keep me dry, that's for sure.

more work to do before this fella is ready for wet conditions..

 

[full-throttle]

For the rear brake cable do you just get a longer one from CRC?

what's crc?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=564
You'll need to bleed the brake afterwards. If I'm not mistaken Shimano uses mineral oil.

 

[Hyena]

like water supply copper pipe? that's thick stuff, ain't it?

Yep - I fire up the angle grinder and lop off a dozen little stubs at a time. You'd probably normally use a hacksaw but that's too much like hard work for multiple little cuts For bit gauge wire you can use it directly but for 3x12/10ga (which is what I often use) I cut about 1/3 out of it to make a C shape and then crimp that (using big swage crimper meant for stainless steel rope fence crimping)
See what icecube is using, I think he found some little copper 'bell' things that are ideal and specifically designed for such use (I think) I couldn't find anything locally like that though so again I have to ghetto it

for some reason i thought it was frowned on to trim the original connectors, but why not?

Nope, the shorter the better. The only reason you wouldn't is if you wanted to individually charge/balance each pack - which is totally unnecessary and only done by overly cautious lipo sissies :lol: Bulk charge at 2C or GTFO

someone once advised against jumping this motor, but i've got other things in mind.

He's going to give up on saying "told ya so" soon

what's crc?

Chain reaction cycles

marzocchi makes muds guards for the bomber. work ok on my commuter, but i don't rely on it to keep me dry, that's for sure.

I need some for my fighter but not sure I want the marz ones. I do need something though - sun glasses keep the mud out of my eyes but not the grit out of my mouth! Speaking of which I got smacked in the cheek by a cicada at ~60km/hr last week. The bloody thing nearly took my head off!

 

[full-throttle]

I need some for my fighter but not sure I want the marz ones. I do need something though - sun glasses keep the mud out of my eyes but not the grit out of my mouth!

Try a mud flap. Easy to DIY.

 

[GCinDC]

Try a mud flap. Easy to DIY.

lookee, CRC has just such a mudguard product. now excuse me while i go back to shopping there... awesome resource. thanks.

oh, right, and bearings... i was surprised that ebikes.ca didn't have them for the Hx motors, which is a bummer, cause i also need the rubber bits with the spring wire inside.. anyone know where i can get those!?

meanwhile, the hunt for good bearings begins. this is what i measured (when it was apart):


first off, i need to bookmark this thread: New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24
- bearing install tips
- bearing size explanation
<more reading...> oh, i guess this is what i need: 6203 2Z SKF (6203 - dia 17 x dia 40 x 12)
- useful 24" rim/spoke numbers when i get to it

I cut about 1/3 out of it to make a C shape and then crimp that (using big swage crimper meant for stainless steel rope fence crimping)

do you then solder it? if so, what wattage soldering iron? then electrical tape, or shrinktube?

If you set it to LiIo instead of LiPo, it will charge to 4.1V per cell. But that about as good as it gets on these cheap chargers.

nice tip. thanks.

now back to my shopping/research:
- 888 RC2X oil (+ seals?)
- larger front chainring (and front derailleur? - i'd tempted to use bmx freewheel on rear, but need to ride it a bit to decide)
- brake cable
- large screen CA
- caps/plugs for holes for cover plate vent holes?
- 24" wheel/spokes

edit: just bought:
- bearings)
- oil & seals - looks like i'll be rebuildingthe forks... :lol: )
- puller

 

[Duc998]

GC what chainring are you getting? I want at 46T and up. Basically I like pedalling even at speed . But being a noob unsure what will fit.

 

[GCinDC]

GC what chainring are you getting? I want at 46T and up. Basically I like pedalling even at speed . But being a noob unsure what will fit.

i meant to see if a front derailleur would even work on the bike. i'm not sure.

my current ride is effectively a 3 speed: i can change the front from 44T to grandma gear, and the rear freewheel is a 7speed 11t-32t, but the derailleur is only a tensioner, and i removed all the cables. that's the only way i know of to have an 11T in the back, and can pedal up to 35mph. for off road stuff, i can drop to second gear, and if power dies, i can drop to the grandma gear and still pedal uphill.

so part of the answer depends on how i want to ride this. if commuting mostly, i'd like to duplicate the setup and:
- install 7cog 11t rear (now smallest is 14t)
- remove rear derailleur cables, shifter from right handlebar, where it no longer fits because of throttle
- add front derailleur and shifter for left handlebar side
- add front chainrings, which i know are 4 bolt, and i presume is "104mm", and doing some quick searching, there's definitely the bell curve on price appears to be on the mid-40ts:

when searching "4-Bolt 104mm 50t (and up)", i get no hits, but when i drop down to "4-Bolt 104mm 48t" there are options between $32 - $80 for a single chainring..

so anyway, yeah, i'm kinda in the same boat.

and i'm going away for the weekend so i won't be able to work on this at all!

i almost taped the battery pack on to ride in with it this morning but fell asleep at 8:30 last night. :lol:

 

[Alan B]

I have a crankset that has planetary gears and 110mm chainring mounts. It provides 1:1 and 1.6:1 selectable gearing, making your chainring 60% bigger, or straight through. With this you can use the singlespeed 16T freewheels and still get high speed pedaling with a reasonable chainring, and avoid the derailleur altogether. The original units are spendy but this Taiwan licensed Schlumpf unit was about half the cost and takes standard chainrings and crank arms.

 

[GCinDC]

I have a crankset that has planetary gears...

link? thx, g

 

[nieles]

http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/schlumpf/antriebe_engl.htm

http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/sd/sd_engl.htm

 

[Alan B]

I got it from Accountant, I haven't found a link to it. Lets see if I can find a photo.

This photo was to show the shipping damage, it has been repaired. One of the five ears was bent, it is a punched steel part that straightened out well. I'll have to take new photos. You can see the end of one of the cranks in the background. It is a licensed variation of the Schlumpf speed drive crankset with standard 110mm spider for chainrings and standard crank arms. It shifts by tapping the button in the center of the crank with your heel, one way for 1:1 and the other way for 1.6:1. Perhaps Zombiess will be carrying these, I don't know. I'm planning to put it on my Greyborg. I ordered a chainring and short bolts for it this morning. I need to choose some pedals and get the chain and freewheel for it.

 

[Alan B]

http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/schlumpf/antriebe_engl.htm

This lower cost sub-licensed model is not shown on the Schlumpf websites. It is similar but the design has been adjusted for lower pricing.

 

[nieles]

their site is a bit weird to navigate.

i added a page with more versions of the drive.
is it pictured on the 2nd link in my previous message?

 

[gensem]

You guys are searching for the wrong name...
Ask zombies because im sure he has more info.

 

[binlagin]

I want a knockoff schlumpf!

 

[adrian_sm]

when searching "4-Bolt 104mm 50t (and up)", i get no hits, but when i drop down to "4-Bolt 104mm 48t" there are options between $32 - $80 for a single chainring..

so anyway, yeah, i'm kinda in the same boat.

I got a 52T that I have been really happy with, from Rennen Design for $40 + shipping.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17944&p=343636&hilit=chainring#p343636

 

[Alan B]

I posted new closeups of the Schlumpf variant gear drive crank on this thread:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34929&p=539616#p539616

 

[kfong]

Greg, just ran across this on Keyne's DH build. Might as well coat it with something that cools as well. Big concern is how temperature tolerant is the stuff. What's the max heat range and where can we get some



Furthermore, if you want to further improve heat transfer within the motor then you pot the stator winding using a thermally conductive epoxy instead of the traditional "varnish" still used in most AC induction, stepper, and low performance BLDC motors. 15-years ago I began potting BLDC stators using a thermally conductive epoxy and this is becoming standard in high performance BLDC motors since the improvement in heat transfer is 40-50% higher compared to using a varnish! If you want to read more about potting then obtain a copy of my paper I presented at the 2006 SMMA Fall Conference in Saint Louis MO, "How to Increase a Motor's Continuous Torque Output and Power Density by Potting its Stator With Thermally Conductive Epoxy".

In addition, I have published companion papers in two different motor industry trade magazines, Sept. 1, 2009 issue of "Energy Efficiency & Technology" and Aug 1, 2009 issue of "Motion Systems Design (MSD).

Richard Welch Jr
Consulting Engineer - Oakdale, Minnesota USA

 

[GCinDC]

finally got the pack roughed in with the handle/lock loop.


also got in a quick test drive.

80v of fresh lipos.

maybe after another drive or so, i'll be able to decide about an 18x3 motorcycle tire...

 

[Duc998]

wow GC that looks great, Its neat compact and stealthy. If you have time can you take some more close up picks of your pack? Also some front / rear shots I want to get a feel how wide the box is.

Also whats that your using to cover the wires? Dam I just want to steal all your ideas

Cant wait for mine. Hopefully will get the box done this week...