beast775
100 kW
This is going to be my next wheel -hub..great work GCinDC LOOKS PHAT!
GCinDC's Giant DH Comp
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
GCinDC
100 MW
so busy. so tired. practically comatose at night after familial duties are over...dbaker said:
and the beast needs lovin... chain is rusted. rear derailleur locked up. each commute i wonder why i keep forgetting to manually drop the chain into the lowest gear, but do you think i can bother to stop and do it? nope. not once i start moving. once i get going, i can seem to only stop for pedestrians. as if letting a wave of traffic pass me would be the worst thing in the world...
i was also an idiot and - after bottoming out on 3 footers - i tightened up every knob on the shocks and forks. doh. seemed to depress normally in the garage, but rides like a damn hardtail now!
i miss the softness, bigtime. i almost considered hitting the lbs where i found a shock guy but... but what? but this stupid diy obsession.
i finally gave up thinking i'd make a chestie for the gopro and bought one. it's sweet! some vids in the can with it, but nothing up to my standards yet.
anyway, after all this moaning, i did finally take a step with the wheel, cause i know i'll make more mistakes, but i wanted to give the wheel a fighting chance of fitting in the bike, and what better way to set my wheel stand, than using the old wheel (note the bolt position near the rim):
my wife's got her hobby, and i got mine..
i left the charger on in the garage last night, but one side benefit!:
but range is plummeting, used 18% or 6Ah on an 4 mile (uphill) commute!:
and for the record:
Rutiger
100 W
GCinDC said:
I'm a little too scared to ask why you're taking videos in the toilet, and how you can raise the standard of said toilet videos?! :lol:
GCinDC
100 MW
Rutiger said:
well, the gopro is waterproof! and have we really seen the toilet's perspective? maybe if it's positioned in the bottom of the bowl looking up through the water... then the question is whether to shoot a number one, or number two.. 
what i mean, re the chestie gopro mount, the shots just aren't as dramatic as my low bike mounts which show the ground contours and make it look like i'm going much faster. i went down some stairs wearing the chestie and from that perspective, it looks like nothing...GCinDC said:
it did probably get a great view of the parking lot manager this morning when he blocked me, and chewed me out for speeding around the garage.. not sure if it will be audible, but he told me i couldn't pass the toll bars anymore and had to use the elevator.
in other news, little charlie turns 4 today!
GCinDC
100 MW
doh! tell me about it... i really need a large screen adaptto! i got lasic about 7 years ago, and while it fixed my distance vision, it ruined my near vision - probably didn't help they over did me - and now seeing anything w/in 2' w/o reading glasses is hopeless.dbaker said:Turns out the problem I thought was an internal clutch issue was actually the chain falling off the chain ring. Inside the chain ring on the way in and outside the chain ring when trying to get home. my eyes are getting worse
laugh now youngsters. it'll surely happen to you! :wink:
samoloh
10 W
GCinDC I am a little confused maybe a missed something back in the thread, why are swapping out your cromotor for the vented crystalite?
GCinDC
100 MW
i bought a cromo but sold it a month later after i gave up trying to figure out how fit it with a disc on the frame. and i was pretty sure i'd kill myself. but i've often wished i had a cromotor.samoloh said:
fact is i've been running an hs35 (or three) on this dh comp almost since the beginning, which must be getting close to a couple years anyway.
and i ordered an h4080 in july and it arrived in november, and i'm just getting close to mounting it.
so i laced it into an mc wheel and extended the wires and replaced the connectors.
and here it is running with a side by side comparison with the hs3540 currently on the bike:
[youtube]Pk3cxe7dw04[/youtube]
[edit: vid worked a minute ago now is erroring.
if dead, will fix tomorrow]recap:
no load max speed with hs4080 is 71mph, drawing ~5-7A
no load max speed with hs3540 + tube/tire/etc is 85mph drawing ~8-10A?
someone help me here. i'm scratching my head. i started wondering if the motor was an hs4060 instead, but i just double checked and there's a sticker on it saying RHS4080...
maybe it's gonna be much torqueier, but ultimately slower?
maybe there's a phase combo i didn't try, and this was the false positive one? wouldn't you expect the h4080 is faster, esp w/ less load, and also draws more current?
rodgah
10 kW
GCinDC said:well, the gopro is waterproof! and have we really seen the toilet's perspective? maybe if it's positioned in the bottom of the bowl looking up through the water... then the question is whether to shoot a number one, or number two..
FYI in the museum of old and new art (MONA) in Tasmania, Australia there is a toilet with such qualities.
There is a large screen addapto greg?
For your viewing pleasure so to speak....
[youtube]hh-RfF3cIDc[/youtube]
samoloh
10 W
GCinDC said:
What!!!! 5 months is a long time to wait. So am guessing the h4080 is supposed to be closer to the cromotor than the hs35. How much power can the h4080 and hs35 handle without mods.
GCinDC
100 MW
special order with all kinds of mixups, but stupid low price. and i wasn't in a hurry...samoloh said:
hs35 can handles 6kw for 3 min before overheating, w/o vented sidecovers.samoloh said:
not sure about h40 but i understand it's the same as the stealth bikes motor, so it's battle tested for that platform.
Going by pictures you have previously posted of one of the stators I think you have a 3580 and not a 3540. I'm pretty sure I saw 12x6 written on the stator (12 wires x 6 turns). This is probably the cause of it overheating.
3525 = 9x7 (63 total turns) 5% more than the others
3540 = 10x6 (60 turns)
3580 = 12x5 (60 turns)
I run a 3525 with vented side covers at 24s lipo. It will go 43 mph HOC on the flats and never gets over 85* C. However I live close to the coast in Calif where it never gets too hot.
3525 = 9x7 (63 total turns) 5% more than the others
3540 = 10x6 (60 turns)
3580 = 12x5 (60 turns)
I run a 3525 with vented side covers at 24s lipo. It will go 43 mph HOC on the flats and never gets over 85* C. However I live close to the coast in Calif where it never gets too hot.
GCinDC
100 MW
that's awesome. i was a bit afraid to watch at first, but the dude is funny.rodgah said:
no, but i need one!rodgah said:
ugh, more confusion. i had no idea there was a 3580! and this is the "hs3540" from ebikessf.com (35-38mph @ 72V 30-37A). i'll check again next time i pop it open, since those markings are really only what matters i guess...nicobie said:
but i'm pretty sure the ebikes.ca simulator shows the hs3540 overheating in 3min @ 6kw...
and the h4080 special ordering process got so messed up, i would not at all be surprised if somewhere along the line someone stuck a 4080 sticker on a 4060 to get it out the door!
anyhoo, i thought it was finally time to do a visual inspection of the pack. i've done enough roofing to know how to keep water out, but my taped sides weren't the issue...
the slits i cut for the worm clamp however (not visible in pic) provided a nice channel for tire spray (and sand) to pour in over the top of the pack. :x
and frack me, i looks like water got into the shrink wrap of each bms board!
andrey, you seeing this?
how the heck has the bms kept working? obviously they're conformal coated but they sure look toasted!
again, my stupidity and sheer luck precedes me.
andrey, if i'm still seeing the cell voltages on the display, are they still working, or is there something else i can check to make sure they're not damaged?
enough half ass nonsense - time to waterproof this puppy. i looked at my fiberglass enclosure, but i can't fit the brick in as is - would have to take the packs apart, and then still i need to redo the front area, etc, etc, so....:
mostly folds, but a nice big access flap:
and where the rear worm clap slots were....
...gonna waterproof it like so:
and a sock for the controller so i can mount it on the downtube:
some more to tidy up - and i might just redo the sock to enclose the downtube or something - and i'm gonna paint the controller - the new ones are black, i see - but we're rolling again..
i'd been hoping to ride a set course and gather some data points to compare to the non-vented and then vented h40, but obviously the bag took priority this weekend...
GCinDC
100 MW
ps. andrey, is it possible the burn marks are just from normal heating, and not nec an indication of water exposure?
GCinDC
100 MW
meant to add that i extended the motor wires long enough to mount at top of the fork, and i was all set to mount it there, but if positioned sideways, all the wires and connectors would be right in the pinch zone, when turning the wheel hard - and that would be no good.
i could put it vertically, with wires coming down thru downtube, but that was before i decided to do the sock and i didn't like the exposure of wires there. i'll check that again.
i really need to mount a proper light still!
i could put it vertically, with wires coming down thru downtube, but that was before i decided to do the sock and i didn't like the exposure of wires there. i'll check that again.
i really need to mount a proper light still!
GCinDC
100 MW
some more to tidy up - and i might just redo the sock to enclose the downtube or something - and i'm gonna paint the controller - the new ones are black, i see - but we're rolling again..
i'd been hoping to ride a set course and gather some data points to compare to the non-vented and then vented h40, but obviously the bag took priority this weekend...[/quote]
Looking good!
These are exactly what i have been using the past couple of years!
More snow tomorrow!
i'd been hoping to ride a set course and gather some data points to compare to the non-vented and then vented h40, but obviously the bag took priority this weekend...[/quote]
Looking good!
dbaker said:
These are exactly what i have been using the past couple of years!
More snow tomorrow!
andreym
100 W
I believe it is ok, as they are in closed box and the protective cover may change the color with tempereture.GCinDC said:
As for the 4080 motor connectoion, try re-autodetect your new wheel and to compare KV change mode to SQAW from auto\sine - because in SINE mode it is possible that additional timings and OVS cause the speed difference.
and if you have problems with display freezing you can enable display heater:
[youtube]REipx7VDn4g[/youtube]
Setting MAX-E display heater ON:
-insert SD card with any firmware
-power on the controller
-press UP for display setup
-set Heater Enable to YES
-press ESC to return
-confirm settings by pressing RIGHT button.
-remove SD card and restart the controller.
When ambient temperature will fall below +10 Celsius the heater will automatically enables and prevend the LCD from freezing.
Just do not flash the latest firmware, because for your test version BMS you will loose the connection with it because of BMS firmware is older.
GCinDC
100 MW
i was trying to avoid re-autodetect, so i could swap motors easily. i made the B-G-Y hall connectors the same, and then tried various phase connections - because i wasn't sure the colors and found for the various phase combos caused the motor to:andreym said:
- spin but with loud grinding
- not spin at all
- spin freely (as shown in vid)
but i only tried three combos and now that i think about it, i should try 5 (or did i miss any?):
B > B
G > G
Y > Y
B > B
G > Y
Y > G
B > G
G > B
Y > Y
B > G
G > Y
Y > B
B > Y
G > G
Y > B
but i guess this assumes that the halls are wired identically for each motor! i guess i better not make that assumption.. and will try auto detect!
sweet. i think the sd port on mine is internal, so i have to pop it open, right? i'm in no hurry as i'm leaving my bike inside most nights..
has anyone else in US got their adaptto's up and running yet? maybe it's time to start an Adaptto Owners Thread - or is there one yet?
no a flake of snow on the ground yet and fed and all schools closed already. lol. but this will be a good storm finally, right??
i mounted the front wheel with the nobby this am. maybe some sledding later..
andreym
100 W
Yes - at least unsrew 2 top screws and open one side a bit, as I usually do:GCinDC said:
remember that bottom screws are a bit shorter than top ones, so do not mix them up
It does not work this way - each motor have it`s own personal hall placement(they could be inserted a bit differently at another angle and so on, resulting in different settings requred for perfect operation, so at least you need to autodetect new motor, than write down the settings ( Angle corr., Ind timing ) also before that write down settings for old motor,GCinDC said:
Than after changing the motor, just set these settings back manually if you do not want to wait 2 minutes holding the wheel of the ground...
dnmun
1 PW
it does look like the melted plastic is on the top of the shunt resistors. see if you can read the value on the resistors.
GCinDC
100 MW
[youtube]e3UsPTa3xAs[/youtube]
